damaged clear coat, stg 1 or stg 2?

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andrewko

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hi guys, time has come to deal with failing clear coat. Please help me assess the damage. Got a few of these quarter sized spots on my roof. Can this be saved or repaint only?

please also note that repainting is way out of my budget so if there is anything that can be done to prevent further damage, let me know!

i was also considering decontaminating it, applying a "clear coat patch" to the damaged area, then wrapping the whole roof with some high quality vinyl wrap. ("clear coat patch" to prevent the vinyl from grabbing on and pulling the paint around the damaged area if i ever decide to remove it)

hope its clear what i am trying to accomplish!

thank you.
 
andrewko said:
hi guys, time has come to deal with failing clear coat. Please help me assess the damage. Got a few of these quarter sized spots on my roof. Can this be saved or repaint only?

please also note that repainting is way out of my budget so if there is anything that can be done to prevent further damage, let me know!

i was also considering decontaminating it, applying a "clear coat patch" to the damaged area, then wrapping the whole roof with some high quality vinyl wrap. ("clear coat patch" to prevent the vinyl from grabbing on and pulling the paint around the damaged area if i ever decide to remove it)

hope its clear what i am trying to accomplish!

thank you.
Click to expand...
If your clear coat is already peeling it will have to be repainted.
 
It may be just the way the pics were taken, but it looks like its on top of the paint, almost how sap looks after its been left on the paint for a long time.

Random spots of clear failing often don't look as well defined as this does.
 
Scratch your fingernail on the paint and if it leaves a Scratch then you have a problem
 
RoadRageDetail said:
It may be just the way the pics were taken, but it looks like its on top of the paint, almost how sap looks after its been left on the paint for a long time.

Random spots of clear failing often don't look as well defined as this does.
Click to expand...

i am almost sure this was originally caused by sap, and there is total of 3 spots like this one.


E-WAY i've done that and i can clearly feel the rough texture. also feels like it ate through clear coat.


so will it just keep on spreading around or can it be fixed with touch up paint + clear coat spray?
 
This looks like the clear coating in failing. The blue paint in the area is deeper then the surrounding area.
 
anyone with any helpful tips/suggestions on how to fix it without respraying?
 
nothing, i mean its through the clear coat so at this point i just want it to stop from spreading.... possibly applying something to seal it from water and such?
 
I agree with delamination. Depending on your budget, (i paint for a living), depending on what the customer wants to spend. Say the cheapest economy job possible... Peel off what i can with a plastic blade, and then sand it lightly so all the flaky clear is removed. DO NOT hit the paint. I would sand down the rest of the good clear with 600g (not too heavily), apply some adhesion promoter especially to the parts with no clear since you wont be sanding that... then re clear the entire panel.

EDIT: Also 1 stage paint, doesn't have clear coat. So it's probably just the basic bc/cc application.
 
its an 07 subaru impreza

Mike- i bought this car used about a year ago and 99% sure the paint is original.

i've been on subaru forums for a few years now and it seems like every one is complaining about poor paint (my first subaru so can't say much)

thanks Mfoehr, i will do some product lookup and possibly do what you suggested....

also sending down the whole roof so that it blends in better? sry noob here
 
andrewko said:
its an 07 subaru impreza

Mike- i bought this car used about a year ago and 99% sure the paint is original.

i've been on subaru forums for a few years now and it seems like every one is complaining about poor paint (my first subaru so can't say much)

thanks Mfoehr, i will do some product lookup and possibly do what you suggested....

also sending down the whole roof so that it blends in better? sry noob here
Click to expand...

--- You sand down the entire roof, because you don't just clear the section thats peeling. You would clear the entire roof and mask off the rest of the car.

This way you have a fresh coat of clear, and the sanding help with adhesion of the new clear. I suggested not sanding the part that you feel the clear off because, then you will go right through the color into the sealer underneath it. It's def. not the "right" way to do it, but it will get the job done, cheaper, and it will surely last longer than you own the car.

EDIT: Just seen you said something about vinyl wraps. I would suggest to you... NOT to do anything of the sort. I promise you, that you will be kicking yourself in the booty later on down the line.

Where are you located? I would think you would be looking at around 100-200$ to have the roof cleared with a lower economical clear. If you talk to someone, see if they shoot dupont nason... It works totally fine, i use it in most of the engine bays i paint because it's cheap and very durable. It's about 45$ a quart with the activator. So the materials that a shop will charge you will be quite minimal.
 
hey thanks for some good tips! since i'm not planning on selling this car it would probably be ok to shell out 300 to re-clear the roof if don't come up with anything else.

why do you advise against vinyl? i was actually strongly considering doing it but now that you are not recommending, i might just not.

would just re-clearing the 2"x2" patch be a good temporary fix? (by tempo. i mean somewhere around a 1.5 years)


located in CA, 805
 
andrewko said:
hey thanks for some good tips! since i'm not planning on selling this car it would probably be ok to shell out 300 to re-clear the roof if don't come up with anything else.

why do you advise against vinyl? i was actually strongly considering doing it but now that you are not recommending, i might just not.

would just re-clearing the 2"x2" patch be a good temporary fix? (by tempo. i mean somewhere around a 1.5 years)


located in CA, 805
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--- I am a painter... So I'll never be okay with a vynil wrap lol. To me it's just cheap and tacky looking. A gloss finish from real clear will always be more durable, shiny, deep looking, and will be able to be fixed if something would happen.

I'm on the east coast, so west coast pricing might be different. Just make sure you shop around and ask them what products they would use and the process they will be taking.

Why would you fix a 2x2 section? If you're going to clear a section of the roof, you just do the entire roof. Simply because, all the prep work is the same. Still have to tape of the entire car etc. why not just spray the extra few square footage? Unless you mean.. Spray can clear from autozone or something.
 
Mfoehrkolb said:
--- I am a painter... So I'll never be okay with a vynil wrap lol. To me it's just cheap and tacky looking. A gloss finish from real clear will always be more durable, shiny, deep looking, and will be able to be fixed if something would happen.

I'm on the east coast, so west coast pricing might be different. Just make sure you shop around and ask them what products they would use and the process they will be taking.

Why would you fix a 2x2 section? If you're going to clear a section of the roof, you just do the entire roof. Simply because, all the prep work is the same. Still have to tape of the entire car etc. why not just spray the extra few square footage? Unless you mean.. Spray can clear from autozone or something.
Click to expand...

ok got the vinyl part!

yeah i was thinking of doing the autozone can clear coat to fix it for now and maybe have it professionally redone at some point.

thank you for helpful tips.
 
--- problem with rattle can clear. It goes on like sand paper, and iirc has no UV protection.

If you MUST use a rattle can. Tape off the section that is peeling after removing anything lose. Tape it off 1cm outside of the section peeled. And just lay it on thick. Be sure to cover the rest of a car. You are doing a spot repair, so it will be like a surgeon table. Entire patient covered and the section being worked on cut out and taped edges.

Good luck.
 
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