DAMF + m105= Fantastc

jarred767 said:
Thanks for the reminder, I'm probably guilty of trying to increase my working area, always seems to be a struggle, but I need to remember that less is more in the long run. Glad you're liking M105 BTW and since you like D300, try out that D300/M105 combo I mentioned earlier, it's pretty good! Thanks again man!
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I plan on trying it.
Thanks for sharing that with us.
 
jarred767 said:
Thanks for the reminder, I'm probably guilty of trying to increase my working area, always seems to be a struggle, but I need to remember that less is more in the long run. Glad you're liking M105 BTW and since you like D300, try out that D300/M105 combo I mentioned earlier, it's pretty good! Thanks again man!
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I tried your method yesterday and love it. :dblthumb2:
Had an 8oz bottle, I filled it half with the m105 and half with the D300.
The work time is longer, wipes off like a buttery wax, best of both worlds.

First tried it on a black truck, cut was amazing and it finished down very good, in fact lsp ready , no hazing whatsoever.
Thanks for the tip. :dblthumb2:

I'll give the combo another go today when working on a large Dodge truck.

One thing I found out is the m105 is much user friendly for the operator and less dusting when using the MF Cutting Disk.
The m105 wipes off like a dream when using the MF also. :dblthumb2:
 
ryandamartini said:
As far as 105 dusting, it does dust a bit but keep in mind at heart, 105 is not a new age infinite working compound. It has a very short working time and due to the heavy amount of abrasives in the compound, your pads will require cleaning much more often.

With my flex vvb rotary, I get maybe two passes out of a section at 12-1500 rpm and that is it. When I started with my rotary, it was a snow storm and now not so much.

Keep in mind QUICK work time and pad cleanliness are key here. Do that and follow up with a finer polish.
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Not over working the m105 is key.
If you over work it you'll have problems, if you work it just right there's no better compound IMO.

I find myself using my Flex 3401 less since getting my DAMF pads, I do just fine using my GG6:dblthumb2:
 
jarred767 said:
seems to dust on me almost all the time i use it. maybe i should be using more product? although I feel like when I use more, the pads gum up quicker? I've just been used to the dust and figured it was part of the process
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When it comes to using the m105 less is better than more.
Once my pad is primed I only need two small size drops of the product, sometimes three.

Most important is to NOT work too large of an area, taking on too much area only makes it more difficult.
 
HateSwirls said:
Not over working the m105 is key.
If you over work it you'll have problems, if you work it just right there's no better compound IMO.

I find myself using my Flex 3401 less since getting my DAMF pads, I do just fine using my GG6:dblthumb2:
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:iagree: I think the most common way M-105 is over worked is from folks trying to work a 2ft. x 2ft. work section with it.

Trying to work such a large work section, the work cycle is over before the second section pass is. At that point you're just moving around and removing dried product / abraded off material, which is where a lot of the dust comes from.

Shrink that down to a 12inch x 12inch work section without spreading the product around first, dial in the amount of product used, trying less and less each time you practice with it and you'll eventually work out a good process with the right amount of working time, amount of product, machine speed, arm speed and pressure.

Nail these parameters (which constantly change) and you'll see very fast cutting, very nice finishing with very little if any dusting.

The problem usually is in the mindset of the person behind the polisher wanting instant gratification. Instead of pushing on and working out the right parameters and mastering the use of a great performing product, they just quit trying and purchase another product that they hear someone else raving about.

I fell into this exact category of mindset for quite some time, and all the latest and greatest compounds fell short of M-105 at the end of it all, and probably still would if I hadn't stopped "chasing" a few years back.
 
I feel like the microfiber pads allow 105 to retain is moisture more than foam.

What are all your experiences/thoughts?

Like anything, there are all sorts of variables. I assume it depends on the situation.

Then there is they types of foam it's used with.

I mostly use 105 with a large pore light cutting / heavy polishing pad in an effort to keep the liquid cooler as it's worked into/on to the paint. It works well for me so long as I'm not in the sun!

This season I plan on trying it on the closed cell hex logic, and Hydrotech cutting pads, and see how it behaves.
 
dlc95 said:
I feel like the microfiber pads allow 105 to retain is moisture more than foam.

What are all your experiences/thoughts?

Like anything, there are all sorts of variables. I assume it depends on the situation.

Then there is they types of foam it's used with.

I mostly use 105 with a large pore light cutting / heavy polishing pad in an effort to keep the liquid cooler as it's worked into/on to the paint. It works well for me so long as I'm not in the sun!

This season I plan on trying it on the closed cell hex logic, and Hydrotech cutting pads, and see how it behaves.
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When I was first learning to deal with real hard Corvette paint and failing miserably in the middle of a job, I got in contact with Dana, "Asphalt Rocket" who coached me through the use of M-105 with a rotary polisher.

One of the things he kept bringing up as a common problem was the tipping of the machine, allowing air to get up under the pad between it and the paint, making an already short work cycle even shorter as this tipping would allow the product to dry before being worked long enough to produce the desired results.


I tinkered around with the knowledge he had given me and quickly observed that his guidance had merit.

That whole "product drying prematurely" thing stuck in my mind, which led me to read Kevin Brown's work on the use of supplemental wetting agents, which led me to reading and practicing everything that I could find by Kevin.

Kevin was kind enough to make time to pull the car off to the side of the road and hold a few phone conversations with me on the use of M-105 and wet sanding etc. The guy is brilliant!!

Taking all of what I read on here, got from Dana, got from Kevin and learned through trial and error in the garage, I haven't found a compound to outperform M-105 yet.

I think the retention of moisture is very important when using M-105, and nothing in my experience retains moisture better than the MF pads on an old school DA polisher such as the PC, GG, HF etc. but too much moisture, as in too much product, opens up a whole new set of problematic conditions.

It took a while to get through the learning curve, but now through it I can only hope Meguiar's never discontinues M-105, and that the "Latest and Greatest" drives the price of M-105 down over time.

This is all "just for me" commentary. To each his own.
 
tuscarora dave said:
When I was first learning to deal with real hard Corvette paint and failing miserably in the middle of a job, I got in contact with Dana, "Asphalt Rocket" who coached me through the use of M-105 with a rotary polisher.

One of the things he kept bringing up as a common problem was the tipping of the machine, allowing air to get up under the pad between it and the paint, making an already short work cycle even shorter as this tipping would allow the product to dry before being worked long enough to produce the desired results.


I tinkered around with the knowledge he had given me and quickly observed that his guidance had merit.

That whole "product drying prematurely" thing stuck in my mind, which led me to read Kevin Brown's work on the use of supplemental wetting agents, which led me to reading and practicing everything that I could find by Kevin.

Kevin was kind enough to make time to pull the car off to the side of the road and hold a few phone conversations with me on the use of M-105 and wet sanding etc. The guy is brilliant!!

Taking all of what I read on here, got from Dana, got from Kevin and learned through trial and error in the garage, I haven't found a compound to outperform M-105 yet.

I think the retention of moisture is very important when using M-105, and nothing in my experience retains moisture better than the MF pads on an old school DA polisher such as the PC, GG, HF etc. but too much moisture, as in too much product, opens up a whole new set of problematic conditions.

It took a while to get through the learning curve, but now through it I can only hope Meguiar's never discontinues M-105, and that the "Latest and Greatest" drives the price of M-105 down over time.

This is all "just for me" commentary. To each his own.
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Thank you! That's a heck of a post!

I find that on the PC, with mf I like to keep the speed lower as well. Even on the PC 3.5-4.5 is the range I usually keep the machine. This is with sanding marks starting from 1000!

I didn't have as much luck with heavy oxidation. We're talking about a car that needs repainting. I had to use the 3401 with a burgundy megs pad for that.
 
dlc95 said:
Thank you! That's a heck of a post!

I find that on the PC, with mf I like to keep the speed lower as well. Even on the PC 3.5-4.5 is the range I usually keep the machine. This is with sanding marks starting from 1000!

I didn't have as much luck with heavy oxidation. We're talking about a car that needs repainting. I had to use the 3401 with a burgundy megs pad for that.
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You're welcome. It's Sunday, It's snowing and I'm bored so just sitting here reading away and posting away.

I've tweaked my process using M-105 with MF pads around the polisher running full speed ahead!!

Too much product at full speed ahead and this can happen very easily.



Not enough product and you don't get the level of correction possible, and more haze seems to be present.
 
dlc95 said:
I feel like the microfiber pads allow 105 to retain is moisture more than foam.



What are all your experiences/thoughts?



Like anything, there are all sorts of variables. I assume it depends on the situation.



Then there is they types of foam it's used with.



I mostly use 105 with a large pore light cutting / heavy polishing pad in an effort to keep the liquid cooler as it's worked into/on to the paint. It works well for me so long as I'm not in the sun!



This season I plan on trying it on the closed cell hex logic, and Hydrotech cutting pads, and see how it behaves.
Click to expand...


It takes less of the m105 when using the MF disk
Another thing that makes a difference is you have to clean the MF pad often, doesn't cake up like when using foam.
The new DAMF pads are now my go to pads when I tun into thrashed paint.
It's so easy to buff off the m105 when using the MF pads.

Great all the way around.
 
tuscarora dave said:
You're welcome. It's Sunday, It's snowing and I'm bored so just sitting here reading away and posting away.

I've tweaked my process using M-105 with MF pads around the polisher running full speed ahead!!

Too much product at full speed ahead and this can happen very easily.



Not enough product and you don't get the level of correction possible, and more haze seems to be present.
Click to expand...

Ouch!

How much would you say you use? What is your method for priming them?
 
HateSwirls said:
It takes less of the m105 when using the MF disk
Another thing that makes a difference is you have to clean the MF pad often, doesn't cake up like when using foam.
The new DAMF pads are now my go to pads when I tun into thrashed paint.
It's so easy to buff off the m105 when using the MF pads.

Great all the way around.
Click to expand...

Kevin, are you primarily using the megs cutting pads? This is on the 3401?
 
dlc95 said:
Ouch!

How much would you say you use? What is your method for priming them?
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Initial amount applied to a fresh pad.


Add a little more and spread so that 100% of the face of the pad has product rubbed into all the fibers so all the fibers are working for you.



This is what a fully primed MF pad looks like in my world. No additional dots of product. I start working a 12"x12" work section as you see the pad below.



The only way to clean MF pads.



After this initial priming, just a few drops around the outer 1/3 of the pad spread in a little, will do for each additional 12"x12" work section afterward. The center of the pad pretty much always stays damp enough with product that no additional product needs to be applied to the center of the pad.
 
dlc95 said:
Kevin, are you primarily using the megs cutting pads? This is on the 3401?
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Yes I'm only using the MF Cutting Pads.
This is the best pad I've ever used in my 30 years in paint correction.
It blows my mind every time I use them.
The results I get is mind blowing.

Goodbye foam for those bad jobs:dblthumb2:
 
dlc95 said:
Ouch!

How much would you say you use? What is your method for priming them?
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I've used my pads a few times, wash, dry and use again.

I prime my pad with the D300.
I apply five lines of product onto the pad, then make a few passes , inspect pad to make sure it's completely covered, if not I add dots here and there , usually good to go at this point.
Once primed I only use two pea size drops, works great for me.

Remember , a little goes a long way, I found 3-4 to be a bit much, I'm learning as I go with the system.

I'm careful when removing the MF pad, I lift it slowly, going around the pad, I lift a little at a time then remove.
 
dlc95 said:
Kevin, are you primarily using the megs cutting pads? This is on the 3401?
Click to expand...

I tried my 3401 but find it's easier using my GG6, and for some reason I get better results using my GG6 over the Flex which is fine by me. Lol:dblthumb2:
 
dlc95 said:
Ouch!

How much would you say you use? What is your method for priming them?
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Meguiar's stressed how important it is to not use speeds higher than four.

For this reason, it totally destroyed this pad.
 
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