Damp sanding orange peel with what I have :)

Ok, I bought a bunch of 3" stuff because most of the panel surfaces are pretty narrow between the edges.

All is going pretty well on my test panel but I'm having trouble getting it back to super black. It's just a little milky and you can see where the tape line was because it's super black where the tape was covering it.

Meg 1500 sanding
Meg 3000 finishing
3M 5000 trizact
Menzerna PO91 with orange pad
Menzerna PO106 also with orange pad

I removed the tape and performed the last two menzerna steps and it still doesn't blend. I think the menzerna isn't cutting enough, as the surface under the tape is still more glossy, even after the PO91.
 
Try a microfiber pad with 91 if that doesn't do it try Meguires 105 with the micrfiber pad.

But why are you finishing with an orange pad?
 
My intention was to polish the recently damp sanded surface to match the edges that were previously taped. The taped areas remained a lot more shiny and black.
 
Are you using the PC to remove sanding marks? Are you sure the IP2000/Intensive Polish(PO91) is removing all the sanding marks/ haze? Microfiber pads with IP could net really good results but could leave some tick marks and haze depending on the paint softness. I would go for Menz FG400 with MF pads, not that 105 or even 101 wouldn't be a good choice, but I know he finish that FG400 can achieve. That said, FG400 w/ a MF pad on a rotary is one of the ultimate combos. With it, as well as most compounds, if you mist the pad with water you can extend the buffing cycle as wellbas increase gloss.
Do you have a rotary?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online
 
jfoster said:
My intention was to polish the recently damp sanded surface to match the edges that were previously taped. The taped areas remained a lot more shiny and black.
Click to expand...

yes but the orange pad may be leaving a less then desirable finish. and its difficult without pictures and a little more description of whats going on to pinpoint the problem. you didn't tell us what your method was ie. how many passes with each product... try and describe the "not as shiny" area, and what it looked like after the first application of O91. thats a good indication of how it will look when finished, because if the )91 didn't remove the sanding marks then you will just end up with glossy sanding marks. Next if your not seeing any sanding marks then the issue is in the finishing steps... after re-reading you post first I would try the 106 on a white pad then maybe again on a grey pad. If that doesn't help maybe you need a step in between the 091 and the 106.
 
ShaunD said:
Are you using the PC to remove sanding marks? Are you sure the IP2000/Intensive Polish(PO91) is removing all the sanding marks/ haze? Microfiber pads with IP could net really good results but could leave some tick marks and haze depending on the paint softness. I would go for Menz FG400 with MF pads, not that 105 or even 101 wouldn't be a good choice, but I know he finish that FG400 can achieve. That said, FG400 w/ a MF pad on a rotary is one of the ultimate combos. With it, as well as most compounds, if you mist the pad with water you can extend the buffing cycle as wellbas increase gloss.
Do you have a rotary?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online
Click to expand...

I don't have a rotary - PC.
 
What pad are you using with Menz 106?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online
 
ShaunD said:
What pad are you using with Menz 106?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online
Click to expand...

That might be the problem. I'm still using an orange pad. I thought I could stick with an orange and go with the 106 for less cutting but the orange is probably causing my hazing.

Thoughts?
 
Um, yeah. I didn't realize when I first read your post that you were using orange with 106. While you can adjust the cut you get from a polish by changing pads you can't take cut away from a pad by using a less cutting polish. Especially when you are trying to you are using a cutting pad with a finishing polish. You definitely need to combine a finishing pad with 106 to finish without marring the paint. You could use a polishing pad with 106 but I think a finishing pad should give the correction you need with a great finish to the paint.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online
 
Thanks - I'm going to give it a shot today!

Jeff
 
Ok... I know you guys are going to smack me around for not posting pictures. I have some but they simply show the end product, as it was difficult to get images of the finer details.

First let me say that I finally bought something at AG that I didn't really like. Super Soft Deluxe Green Microfiber Towels with Rolled Edges, green buffing towels, micro fiber, micro fibre, detail cloths Microfiber towels. I'm jumping ahead a bit here but.. once everything was polished, I wiped with these towels and it would introduce a LOT of micro marring on an otherwise PERFECT, slick, black paint. I went to some Griots cloths that I had previously purchased and the problem went away.

So here's the process that I followed.

Paint is recent and car is garaged - so no clay bar, just washed with Megs car wash.

Taped panel that I was working on with 3M vinyl tape
Megs Unigrit 1500 sanding discs in 6 and 3 inch to level

I tried FG400 at this point, as it is said to be able to remove 1200 scratches. Maybe on wool, but with an orange pad (most aggressive pad I felt comfy with), it just wasn't happening.

Went to Unigrit 3000 finishing discs to knock it down a bit. Even after that step, the FG400 and then the Menzerna 106 - there was a strange SUPER small orange peel look to it. It seemed like the machine finishing caused this, as when I took the same 3000 finishing pad and rubbed it down by hand (cross pattern), I was able to then go to FG400, Menz SF4000. One some panels, I went to the Trizact 5000 by hand too, and it certainly helped but it was faster to let the FG400 do that work instead.

So..

Unigrit 1500 sanding
Unigrit 3000 Finishing
Unigrit 3000 Finishing by hand
FG400 on Orange
SF4000 on White
P21S Wax (which I dropped and ruined half a tub of!)

PS - Pulled the tape after using the 3000 finishing pad with the machine. It seemed to work really well to blend the edge by hand using the 3000 pad.
 
jfoster said:
Ok... I know you guys are going to smack me around for not posting pictures. I have some but they simply show the end product, as it was difficult to get images of the finer details.

First let me say that I finally bought something at AG that I didn't really like. Super Soft Deluxe Green Microfiber Towels with Rolled Edges, green buffing towels, micro fiber, micro fibre, detail cloths Microfiber towels. I'm jumping ahead a bit here but.. once everything was polished, I wiped with these towels and it would introduce a LOT of micro marring on an otherwise PERFECT, slick, black paint. I went to some Griots cloths that I had previously purchased and the problem went away.
Click to expand...


:dunno:


No answer for you there as I've used these extensively on a LOT of different cars and that means a lot of different paint systems and had zero problems. If I had had a problem I could have easily used something else.

But what's most important is that you found a towel that worked for you on your car's paint system.

:xyxthumbs:



jfoster said:
So here's the process that I followed.

Paint is recent and car is garaged - so no clay bar, just washed with Megs car wash.

Taped panel that I was working on with 3M vinyl tape
Megs Unigrit 1500 sanding discs in 6 and 3 inch to level

I tried FG400 at this point, as it is said to be able to remove 1200 scratches. Maybe on wool, but with an orange pad (most aggressive pad I felt comfy with), it just wasn't happening.
Click to expand...

Most "statements" as to what grit level a compound will remove are in the context of a body shop environment and this would mean the compound will remove sanding marks to the stated level using a wool cutting pad on a rotary buffer.

That's the norm but if you don't have a background in products used in the body shop then it's understandable that a person wouldn't know this.




jfoster said:
Went to Unigrit 3000 finishing discs to knock it down a bit. Even after that step, the FG400 and then the Menzerna 106 - there was a strange SUPER small orange peel look to it.

It seemed like the machine finishing caused this, as when I took the same 3000 finishing pad and rubbed it down by hand (cross pattern), I was able to then go to FG400, Menz SF4000. One some panels, I went to the Trizact 5000 by hand too, and it certainly helped but it was faster to let the FG400 do that work instead.

So..

Unigrit 1500 sanding
Unigrit 3000 Finishing
Unigrit 3000 Finishing by hand
FG400 on Orange
SF4000 on White
P21S Wax (which I dropped and ruined half a tub of!)

PS - Pulled the tape after using the 3000 finishing pad with the machine. It seemed to work really well to blend the edge by hand using the 3000 pad.
Click to expand...


Congratulations... :dblthumb2:

Wetsanding a single panel is a lot of work from start to finish.

Now just imagine sanding down an entire car. Someone else's car.


Now that's a LOT of work, risk and time.


:)
 
Oh, I did all of the side panels - and it WAS nerve-racking and took forever.. I can see how with some more experience, this could be knocked out a lot faster. I just felt better going slow.
 
Not sure what to say about the microfiber. If it was any color other than black, maybe I would not have noticed but I was able to repeat it over and over again. Like I mentioned, the car was recently painted, so perhaps it's softer than normal/should be? There was definitely a difference.

When I referred to the wool vs foam for the FG400 - I was basically saying that I realized at that point that wool msut have been the point of reference in those comments :)


I cant say enough about the generous sharing of great information here. I couldn't do it without you guys - heck, I wouldn't even try. I only have one customer here - my wife, and she's happy ;)
 
EoLo


NeuMi
 
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