dawn before coating?

Sorry i did not read through the thread,but from my past experiences IPA and APC work great and you never have to really worry about residue if done correctly
 
I was having a discussion about this with some other detailers the other day...

Personally, if I am doing a 1 step correction with a product that is not particularly oily and does not leave significant dust, I will just jump right to eraser.

If I am compounding and creating a lot of dust or using a product like SF4500 that is super oily, I will presoak with diluted IPA, foam with a heavy mixture of citrus wash (or IXSS which I just purchased) with possibly a little APC added to the reservoir, rinse very thoroughly, blow dry, and then do an eraser wipe down. The foaming/drying portion only takes an extra 30 minutes or so, so it would be silly to blow it off if you've used a substantially oily product or need to remove a lot of compounding dust.

I have photos of this process in my most recent write up: 2013 Scion FRS Corrected and Coated with CQUK
 
hernandez.art13 said:
Sorry i did not read through the thread,but from my past experiences IPA and APC work great and you never have to really worry about residue if done correctly
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Just be cautious. Almost every APC will be full on non-volatile components. From a theoretical point of view, simple spray and wipe will make it almost impossible to be certain these are all removed. That is the reason for use of totally volatile products - we accept that there are going to be residues but counter that by knowing that they will evaporate.
 
HD.Detailing said:
FWIW... I did VERY light dawn wash and 12.5% IPA wipe down after on my black Z before 22ple Pro, no problems.
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I just heard from Shyan at 22ple and I asked some questions about this as I really like their coating.

I asked about DP coating prep and eraser.. told him my concern with black soft paint and IPA.

He told me for 22ple.. Surfactant (Eraser contains surfactant and alcohol) are the main cleaning ingredients in all washing products such as dish washer, hand cleaner, shower gel and of course car shampoo. It is important to make sure that surfactant is properly rinsed from the paint surface or else they will leave a sticky residue that will create spots and attract dirt. If you tried using Eraser before applying the glass coat, you will also notice a significant reduction in water beading, durability and protection from the glass coat. This is due to the surfactant (that cannot be merely wiped off) remanding on the paint surface and prevent the glass coat from curing with the paintwork itself.

BTW he did say they are in the advanced stages of a silicon/oil remover that will be a spray on rinse off, not wiped... about 6 months from launch.

IPA he said to use 99.99% Pure IPA diluted 50%. So, I will be buying MG Chemical 99.9% pure IPA to try on the next 2 coatings I have planned.

He did say a lot of IPA companies use recylced IPA containing impurities which may cause more harm than good.

Keep in mind this is only advice for this particular popular coating.
 
HD.Detailing said:
He did say a lot of IPA companies use recylced IPA containing impurities which may cause more harm than good.
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The IPA you buy in a United States pharmacy is considered a medical antiseptic and is in no way recycled. I'm not sure who this guy is or what he is talking about - but that statement is not correct.

IPA is manufactured. It consists of 2-propanol and distilled water. It may have trace amounts of a few other ingredients in it that are pretty much considered inert. Some even have coloring and scents - read the ingredients and stay away from those.

Maybe some companies that use IPA as industrial solvents re-use the IPA, but in the USA we are not being sold "recycled" IPA for medical use.
 
^^^IDK could be 22ple is from Singapore.. but just stating he recomends 99.99% pure (which is hard to find in a store) diluted 50% with water
 
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