Debate Over LSP Removal Settled

I've done the submerging test with a variety of waxes, IPA, dawn, and regular water. It had no effect on anything. I've long been propagating your findings and ideas about LSP stripping.

https://m.imgur.com/a/pHavs here's the pics of the experiment for anyone interested.
That was an interesting experiment. Thanks for sharing!

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Soooooooo you think the dye penatrated and went past the sealant to "stain" the clearcoat? W-O-W that is a stretch. Nothing is impossible, but that is certainly imporbably. Usually, the simplist explanation (the one with the least amount of assumptions) is often true. In this case, the wax cured with the sealant.

Go put a nice coat of sealant on some test panel, hopefully not your car, lol. Then write on it with a sharpie and leave it out in the sun a couple days. Tell me how good that sealant protected the paint from being stained. Id bet you'd need a buffer to get it off just like the die in the wax.
 
I used mckee 37 hi intensity apc at about 7 parts water to 1 part apc to strip butters wetwax off my friends car as part of a carwash. Dried with a double wipe down of eraser, no beading at all left so I don't know what to think necessarily.
 
Butter Wetwax isn't known for durability, so I would rate it like a good LSP that has reached the end of its life and, second, you're still looking at beading as a measurement of presence or absence of LSP...that has already been demonstrated as being unreliable.
 
Go put a nice coat of sealant on some test panel, hopefully not your car, lol. Then write on it with a sharpie and leave it out in the sun a couple days. Tell me how good that sealant protected the paint from being stained. Id bet you'd need a buffer to get it off just like the die in the wax.

I thinks that's comparing apples to oranges.
 
That's what I mean, I think a lot of people have looked at indicators of beading as presence of lsp so I'm not sure if I did strip.
 
Sheeting and beading aren't the greatest indicators of having a durable paint protection. Not all paint protection beads or sheets and beading and sheeting don't necessarily indicate healthy protection either. We just use beading and sheeting as proxies for protection because they are the result of applying protection.

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If they ARE reading the forums, they may have just discovered (for free) that by mixing BFWD ingredients with Natty's Red, you can create the most durable LSP on the planet.

Only one slight downside is it will make all cars pink! :D

Very interesting topic though.
 
Interesting discussion on both sides. I have a question about something that's been mentioned a few time:

If sheeting/beading aren't the best indicators of whether the wax is there are not, then what is. As an example, I used Supernatural on my car back in June. When I used a touch test the other day, it felt not smooth. I then proceeded to wash it using a light maintanience shampoo to see if what I was feeling was maybe a light film on top of the wax. The car sheeted just like it does when I first apply that wax during washing. After a careful dry, the car still doesn't feel smooth. So here the sheeting is proving to me that there is wax left yet the paint doesn't feel it. Why? Function of the wax?

Great article because I need to strip some wax off my daily soon and I'm not sure what to do. When in doubt, clay bar?
 
Slickness is the first thing to go when I wash the car, I don't rely on it to judge durability. Most likely a result of the harder water I'm rinsing the paint with. Water behavior is still the best judge that I go by, but it's not a perfect indicator.
 
Slickness is the first thing to go when I wash the car, I don't rely on it to judge durability. Most likely a result of the harder water I'm rinsing the paint with. Water behavior is still the best judge that I go by, but it's not a perfect indicator.

IME that initial fierce beading is the 1st to go.. Even after switching to a different soap [3D Pink] I can sometimes have a dramatic fall in initial beading immediately after washing a vehicle [more noticeable on horizontal panels] Even if I rinse the panel off right after washing it..

I've seen your youtube vids and I envy your beading test results because I don't always experience that same kind of longevity. I don't scrub/rub very hard when I wash a vehicle, however I'm beginning to wonder if I should start using less than the recommended amount of soap per gallon. I currently use the normL 1oz. per gallon dilution. I'm thinking of maybe cutting it in half.

I've also found that spraying Megs D114 @1:128 on the paint prior to rinsing [whether it's before or after washing] somehow helps bring back the beading. But my traditional car wash soap does the opposite.
 
IME that initial fierce beading is the 1st to go.. Even after switching to a different soap [3D Pink] I can sometimes have a dramatic fall in initial beading immediately after washing a vehicle [more noticeable on horizontal panels] Even if I rinse the panel off right after washing it..

I've seen your youtube vids and I envy your beading test results because I don't always experience that same kind of longevity. I don't scrub/rub very hard when I wash a vehicle, however I'm beginning to wonder if I should start using less than the recommended amount of soap per gallon. I currently use the normL 1oz. per gallon dilution. I'm thinking of maybe cutting it in half.

I've also found that spraying Megs D114 @1:128 on the paint prior to rinsing [whether it's before or after washing] somehow helps bring back the beading. But my traditional car wash soap does the opposite.

Let me know what waxes and sealants you've been working with and I'll see if I can run some tests. I'd like to get a variety of different dish soaps, some with conditioners to see how that can impact the behavior as well.
 
I don't understand how this is still something that gets so much discussion. It's not hard to do a couple quick passes to remove an LSP. You always should before applying one anyway to remove marks from the claying process. In addition to that, so many other people now agree that polishing is the way to go, I'm surprised people still talk about it.
 
Let me know what waxes and sealants you've been working with and I'll see if I can run some tests. I'd like to get a variety of different dish soaps, some with conditioners to see how that can impact the behavior as well.

Mainly Carpro Reload. I can't get the beading to last past the 2nd wash. Especially on the roof and to a lesser degree the hood on the 2yr old Kia. Paint is still in perfect shape, properly prepped, and to make it even easier for any sealant to survive, the vehicle is white. 2 bucket wash with Megs Shampoo Plus using a gentle method wash almost renders the beading non existent immediately after washing [during the rinse] And 3D Pink hasn't been a night and day difference like I had hoped, because it too diminishes the beading into more of a sheeting behavior.. 3-4 weeks after applying to the roof of the vehicle, there is no beading whatsoever, just flat paint before and after the wash. I look at your vids and get PO at Carpro everytime I see it and similar vids. Lol.

I don't understand how this is still something that gets so much discussion. It's not hard to do a couple quick passes to remove an LSP. You always should before applying one anyway to remove marks from the claying process. In addition to that, so many other people now agree that polishing is the way to go, I'm surprised people still talk about it.

I usually like to re apply sealant before contaminants have had the chance to bond to the paint, therefore I don't always have to clay prior to applying sealant. But at the same time, I don't care about removing the sealant if I'm simply going to re apply the same kind.
 
I don't understand how this is still
something that gets so much discussion.


It's not hard to do a couple quick passes
to remove an LSP. You always should before
applying one anyway to remove marks from
the claying process. In addition to that, so
many other people now agree that polishing
is the way to go,

I'm surprised people still talk about it.

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Bob
 
I don't understand how this is still something that gets so much discussion. It's not hard to do a couple quick passes to remove an LSP. You always should before applying one anyway to remove marks from the claying process. In addition to that, so many other people now agree that polishing is the way to go, I'm surprised people still talk about it.

Why would someone want to clay and polish a car that was just clayed and polished only 6 weeks ago? If you use a carnuba wax the lsp could need to be re applied every 6 weeks right? Thats not long enough to justify re polishing and claying
 
I don't understand how this is still something that gets so much discussion. It's not hard to do a couple quick passes to remove an LSP. You always should before applying one anyway to remove marks from the claying process. In addition to that, so many other people now agree that polishing is the way to go, I'm surprised people still talk about it.

Why would someone want to clay and polish a car that was just clayed and polished only 6 weeks ago? If you use a carnuba wax the lsp could need to be re applied every 6 weeks right? Thats not long enough to justify re polishing and claying
 
I think when I clean my car with either p21s taw or cg clean slate it doesn't get all the lsp's off. It does do a nice deep cleaning to where I feel comfortable applying a fresh coat of paste wax over it.

This is Autogeek not bobs generic detail shop. I'm talking about using it on my car. A car that is in pristine condition and rarely goes longer then 10 weeks before doing a detail on it. If I want to lay down a fresh coat of Fuzion or midnight sun after 5 weeks I hardly think I need to polish and clay. In fact if I did polish and clay in this scenario I would be certifiably insane.

That doesn't mean that the car can't benefit from a nice, deep, paint safe, chemical clean. Either of those 2 products can do that for me.
 
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