Blackthorn, you and I seem to be on about the same page in what to do. I'm just not great at explaining things. My plan was to fill in the scratch with a thin coat of paint, to hopefully less than the level of the scratch. Then apply the clear, which will most likely end up above the level of the original paint. It's this higher area of fresh paint that I'm thinking of sanding down to as flush as I can get it with the original paint. I know it won't be perfect, but nearly anything would be an improvement.
It sounds like you've done this a time or two. Any advice on the paper grit to use and any techniques? I said 3K because I was thinking the finest scratches would be easier to remove by hand. I'd like to have a DA, but it's just not possible at this time. I'm also open to any other polishes that would be better than the scratch x. I read on another forum where Megs Ultimate Compound may work.
Mike, thank you for the links! I'll try to take some pictures as soon as I can to help everyone help me. My main camera is my Blackberry, I hope it's capable of a decent picture of the scratch. I tried to search the site for chip and scratch repair, but wasn't able to find something with enough pictures for me to follow it. (Im a visual/tactile learner)
First, I would mask the area surrounding the scratch, so as to reduce the amount of polishing you will need to do later. Then feather edge it. 3000 is too fine to feather edge with. You will just be wasting time and paper. Use 1200 or 1500 for that.
Then touch up with color to slightly above the level of the rest of the color. Then sand with 1200-1500 to make that color coat level with the rest. I know that you will have to eyeball it. When you touch up, remember that you may need 2 or 3 thin coats of paint per layer, because if you apply too much paint in one coat, it will either run, or it will bubble up days later, and you will need to redo it. The solvents need to evaporate from the paint as it dries, so it is best to go with thin coats in order to properly facilitate this without problems.
Once you have got your color coat done, then do the same with the clear. Build up enough clear so that it is just above the level of the surrounding paint. After three days, carefully sand the clear with 1500 to where it is almost done, then use 2000, 2500 and finally 3000 grit paper accordingly. Remove the masking tape from the surrounding area when you get to 2500-3000.
Put a few drops of car wash solution in a spray bottle with water and use it liberally to keep the sanding area wet. You want to prevent the paper from loading up with little pieces of paint, because if it loads, those little pieces of paint will gouge the paint with bad scratches, and you will need to polish over again, or possibly need to add another layer of paint once more and redo.
Soak the wet and dry sandpaper in water for 20 minutes or more before you use it.
Be careful with the paper when you sand. The edges of the paper can be very sharp and can scratch if you aren't careful. Don't press too hard when sanding. Let the paper do the work. (You can use pressure when sanding with 40 grit paper on wood, but paint is different)
Keep the paper flat, and use a flexible rubber sanding pad to keep it flat.
Check the paper every few strokes for loading. If it loads, then use another piece of the same grit of paper with some of the soapy water sprayed on it to clean it off, by rubbing the two pieces together.
Once you have sanded the area to blend it with the surrounding paint, keep in mind that the paint still needs time to cure, so if you apply too much heat by polishing or buffing, you will ruin your repair. I would try to avoid any real buffing for a week or two, because I am cautious. You can polish it a bit with compound by hand on just that small area, and then move up to a finer polish. Try to be even with your pressure so as not to instill finger marks in the paint, that look like streaks.
Polishing the panel with a DA last would make the area the most uniform, and yield the best possible result.
