Degreaser on paint, and Wolfgang issues on another car.

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Hijazist

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I am new here, and I would love to introduce myself before starting to fire questions, but this is somehow urgent because it involves two new cars, so thanks for understanding.

1. I had a spot on my hood this morning so I grabbed my Blackfire quick detailer (sample from Autogeek) in my trunk to wipe It off, well at least that’s what I thought. I noticed that it wasn’t all smooth to wipe off but I didn’t give it much thought.


I went on with my day and after work, I wanted to wipe off some sap that came onto the hood so I grabbed the "detailer", and I happened to read the label of the bottle and it’s the engine degreaser, not the detailer. Apparently I mixed them up and put the degreaser in my trunk thinking it was the detailer since it’s exactly the same bottle.


I frantically jump to get my Wolfgang detailer from the trunk and wipe off the hood, then I used all the water bottles in my car to rinse the hood. The hood is sealed with Wolfgang Deep Gloss and everything seems ok and water still sheets, but I’m being very paranoid that I messed up the paint or removed the sealant. It’s hard to tell on a silver car in daytime lol.


Am I in the clear or should I do further steps?

2. Also this weekend, I sealed my brother in law's Jeep with Wolfgang Deep Gloss and it gave me some issues.


I’ve used it before with great success. However, the next day after sealing it, the sealant left colored water spots that dry out on the paint after you rinse them off with water. Some spots didn’t go away even with a quick detailer or ONR. I’m not sure what’s going on honestly and I’m not sure if those stubborn spots were there before or after the correction/sealing process.


I didn’t do anything out of the ordinary, I washed it with foam then two buckets, quick dry, clay bar with onr, dry, 3D HD Speed, CG wipe out, seal then buff. It sat in the garage till the next day, about 18 hours.


We’re in Houston and it’s very humid these days, so that could be it? I didn’t notice the spots anywhere else on the car except the hood, so could that be due to the fact that I polished the hood the day before polishing the rest of the car?

In the pictures, you will notice some spots that are colored, and there are others that kinda look etched into the paint


Wolfgang - Album on Imgur
 
As for the degreaser I’d just reapply, most likely still there but is probably diminished.
As for the spots that’s typical of letting water dry on the car, sealant, coating or wax are all prone to water spotting. I’ve used WGDG many times and never noticed water spots
 
Thanks for the reply. Did you mean reapply detailer? I am planning to give the hood a quick wash in a bit.

To remove those spots, do you think I need to strip the sealant, compound then reapply?
 
Agree with vobro on the degreaser. Just reapply the DGPS

As for the spotting, do you always use Speed and then try and strip it off with Wipeout? That seems like you are making way more work for yourself.

Perhaps the WG is reacting with the Montan wax left by Speed if you didn't get it completely removed? Not sure, just throwing it out there.
 
Ok, I'll reapply another coat of DGPS. I also just got the Wolfgang Spritz sealant that I was planning to top the DGPS. You think I should do that or recoat with DGPS?

Yeah I compound with Speed then before sealing I use wipe out. I am new to this but that's what I understood from many tutorials. It could also be that I over-applied the DGPS.
 
Speed isn’t a compound, it’s a all in one which means it’s a light polish that contains a sealant. Sometimes when you stack sealants on top of sealants you can get irregular results
 
I’d reapply the sealant to your hood.

And with Speed you don’t need a prep wipe, it actually probably creates a mess due to not being able to remove the wax completely and leaving irregular surface. Next time go straight to the sealant and maybe use a polish that’s not Speed if you don’t want the wax under the sealant. Having said that, what you described almost sounds like soap that dried on the paint before being rinsed. Try rinsing the car more often during the wash process.
 
BSoares said:
I’d reapply the sealant to your hood.

And with Speed you don’t need a prep wipe, it actually probably creates a mess due to not being able to remove the wax completely and leaving irregular surface. Next time go straight to the sealant and maybe use a polish that’s not Speed if you don’t want the wax under the sealant. Having said that, what you described almost sounds like soap that dried on the paint before being rinsed. Try rinsing the car more often during the wash process.
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Oh man, not a good week at all, and not a good way to start this hobby. I am sad because I am mainly doing this for my nephew who's been on video games since March so I thought this would be a good outlet for him. I built a whole detailing station for us, and invested a relatively big amount in this. I guess it's a good learning experience.

Apparently I confused the Speed for being a one-step compound/polish, hence I used the wipe out. Here's another image of the water spot (or etching?) on the Jeep. After posting this, I went and clayed a panel on the hood, used wipe out then compounded with Maguiar's ultimate compound , nothing. The mark is still there and the funny thing the sealing seems to still be there since the panel is still beading and sheeting. I don't know what these spots are, and I am not sure if I caused them or they've been there, and whether they ate through the clear coat.

Imgur: The magic of the Internet
 
Long story short, what could have happened is that the waterspots were never removed initially because when you heated up the paint by polishing, the paint expanded and it hid the defects. So now after everything has been done, you see it again. The reason I suggest the heat gun is to get the temperature higher up to expand the paint initially, that way you can just spot compound the spots out.

The other method is to keep the paint as cold as possible while you polish. That means basically you're spraying down the paint with ice water after each pass so the paint and therefore defect, remains at a similar paint thickness until the defects are removed.
 
How did the water get on the paint if it was garaged? What pad did you use with the Megs Compound? What machine are you using?
 
WillSports3 said:
Long story short, what could have happened is that the waterspots were never removed initially because when you heated up the paint by polishing, the paint expanded and it hid the defects. So now after everything has been done, you see it again. The reason I suggest the heat gun is to get the temperature higher up to expand the paint initially, that way you can just spot compound the spots out.

The other method is to keep the paint as cold as possible while you polish. That means basically you're spraying down the paint with ice water after each pass so the paint and therefore defect, remains at a similar paint thickness until the defects are removed.
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That’s so interesting and it makes sense. Do you have a recommendation of further reading on this, or maybe a video?
 
The water spots could've been on there before he polished. I would suggest ammo NYC podcasts or if you're able to, shoot an email to ammo NYC or Kevin Brown of buff daddy. They like to get into the specific details of things.
 
vobro said:
How did the water get on the paint if it was garaged? What pad did you use with the Megs Compound? What machine are you using?
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Like mentioned, it could’ve been there before polishing or sealing. I’m in Houston and humidity is crazy this week, so it could be that?

I forgot to mention that I polished the hood the day before and I stopped because I was sore. The next day I finished the whole car then sealed.
 
There was also some of hardened sap that wouldn't come out, so I used hand sanitizer trying remove it and wiped it off immediately. It didn't work very well, so I used Stoner Tarminator which took care of it. I followed the instruction and rinsed it off immediately after each application. I am really freaking out now that I messed up the clear for my brother in law's hood.
 
The clear coat should be fine so don't freak out too much about it. I wouldn't use hand sanitizer in the future. If you get hardened sap (of small enough quantity) on your clearcoat, next time just spit on it and let it sit for a moment. Our saliva is slightly acidic, that's honestly what I do for small sap spots on cars.

Another thing to keep in mind, with a higher humidity, there's a higher chance of the polish getting separated early. For example, most of the time when you see the leveling liquid go clear on your paint, it doesn't mean that it has broken down. It just means the polish has gotten separated. If you were to spritz on some water and go back to it, you'll see the white appear again as if you were on your first pass. Not a big big deal. So what happens is when you're on your 4th or 5th pass, the actual grit of the leveling fluid (the aluminum oxide, zinc, kaolin, calcium bicarbonate or whichever agent they used) has seperated from the liquid and bunching up together instead of being emulsified on your paint. Humidity, high heat, a lot of things can cause that. So when you're on your 4th or 5th pass, you might be only polishing partially as the leveling fluid has separated because it's so humid that the emulsifier is thickening instead of remaining thin and distributing everything evenly across the panel and the paint. That's why perhaps you weren't able to get the waterspot out, because it looks like it's been hit a few times, just not super consistently.
 
WillSports3 said:
I would suggest ammo NYC podcasts or if you're able to, shoot an email to ammo NYC or Kevin Brown of buff daddy.

They like to get into the specific details of things.
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Ha ha... yeah I never get into details. :laughing:


For what it's worth - since this is posted in a forum group called,

Ask Mike Phillips your detailing questions?


When I get to work and out of our Wednesday morning meeting, I'll re-read this thread and offer any input I might have.


:laughing:
 
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