Detailed: Lexus LS430 (MAX WAX follow up)

alban61 said:
Awesome work as always, Justin. Collonite 915 looks really great on that silver paint.

Wonder if it would be possible to use the LC Blue finessing pad, or maybe LC Gray finishing pad to duplicate what the Edge White pad did, since I don't have the Edge pads??
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Try it. You can't hurt anything! Start slower first to see.
 
justin30513 said:
Man....hard question.
Green, orange, and white.......but that just leaves 2 which I use alot!
Yellow and Green.......I can't live without.

Remember you get 2 pads in one and no backplate to center them up on. Also, to clarify, I used Megs Soft-Buffs like crazy. I got tired of the velcro coming off and my backplate failing.
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After checking them out, the Edge foam pad kit looks like a pretty good deal.

The Edge Dual Action 6 Inch Kit
Kit includes:
6 inch Yellow Cutting Pad
6 inch Green Medium Cutting Pad
6 inch Orange Light Cutting Pad
6 inch Blue Finishing Pad
6 inch White Ultra-fine Polishing Pad
2 Cobra Indigo Edgeless Microfiber Polishing Cloths
FREE Edge 2000 Quick Connect Dual Action Adapter
12 oz. Pinnacle XMT Polishing Pad Cleaner
12 oz. Pinnacle XMT Polishing Pad Conditioner
2 Cobra 70/30 Microfiber Bonnets
$99.99

That's now on my wish list for sure :) .
 
alban61 said:
Awesome work as always, Justin. Collonite 915 looks really great on that silver paint.

Wonder if it would be possible to use the LC Blue finessing pad, or maybe LC Gray finishing pad to duplicate what the Edge White pad did, since I don't have the Edge pads??
Click to expand...

I use the blue pad after I wipe the wax off for a final buff. i think it works to bring out a little extra pop, but have never removed wax with it.
 
alban61 said:
Awesome work as always, Justin. Collonite 915 looks really great on that silver paint.

Wonder if it would be possible to use the LC Blue finessing pad, or maybe LC Gray finishing pad to duplicate what the Edge White pad did, since I don't have the Edge pads??
Click to expand...

Basically, you want to use the softest foam pad from the brand you choose. Put the PC on about 3.5-4 you don't need more. Make sure the pad is clean and dry and the wax has already turned to a haze. Sometimes I keep a bottle of water (but the quick detail sprays also work good) with me just in case there is an area of thicker wax and its not being removed. I just give a little squirt to get it moving again and then keep moving so the pad dries. This will basically melt the wax into the finish better, creating a better bond, and also a much higher shine than I think you can get by hand. Most important note about this method is that using a MF towel by hand I feel can put in scratches because, (A) its not always a brand new towel and may have some leftover junk in it. (B) you are pushing with your hand and fingers at different pressures on different parts of the car and depending on the condition and nap on the towel you could push hard enough to scratch. (c)In order to use a MF towel properly by hand you must fold it at least twice into four sections to have enough cushion so you don't put your hand or finger pressure into the paint. With the soft foam pad you never have to worry about this because the foam always is cushioning and gives. It will contour and flex around the shapes of the car and never put direct pressure. This is just my opinion that I shared with Justin. It is the way I do cars and recommend doing them. Added plus is that it is much easier to use the PC to remove wax than it is by arm and shoulder pressure and in my opinion also safer on the paint. I use the MF after I am done to just lightly dust the car and get the wax out of the cracks of the hood and doors and trunk areas. Just my two cents!
 
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The Edge said:
Basically, you want to use the softest foam pad from the brand you choose. Put the PC on about 3.5-4 you don't need more. Make sure the pad is clean and dry and the wax has already turned to a haze. Sometimes I keep a bottle of water (but the quick detail sprays also work good) with me just in case there is an area of thicker wax and its not being removed. I just give a little squirt to get it moving again and then keep moving so the pad dries. This will basically melt the wax into the finish better, creating a better bond, and also a much higher shine than I think you can get by hand. Most important note about this method is that using a MF towel by hand I feel can put in scratches because, (A) its no always a brand new towel and may have some leftover junk in it. (B) you are pushing with your and and fingers at different pressures on different parts of the car and depending on the condition and nap on the towel you could push hard enough to scratch. (c)In order to use a MF towel properly by hand you must fold it at least twice into four sections to have enough cushion so you don't put your hand or finger pressure into the paint. With the soft foam pad you never have to worry about this because the foam always is cushioning and gives. It will contour and flex around the shapes of the car and never put direct pressure. This is just my opinion that I shared with Justin. It is the way I do cars and recommend doing them. Added plus is that it is much easier to use the PC to remove wax than it is by arm and shoulder pressure and in my opinion also safer on the paint. I use the MF after I am done to just lightly dust the car and get the wax out of the cracks of the hood and doors and trunk areas. Just my two cents!
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You rock Aaron, the two 4" Edge pads you made for me like 8 months ago are still holding up!!! I'm definitley going to try this (buffing off with the pad) next go around. Would you give a very light misting of QD'er on each panel, or just only use on thicker area? Would seem like a very light misting and buffing with the pad would bring even more gloss?
 
Beautiful reflections!!! Awesome work as always Justin! :applause:Thanks for the great tip Aaron! I can't wait to try it out. :) :applause:
 
Very Nice job Justin (as allways)
I'll have to try the white edge pad next time for buff off.......Thanks for the tip Justin and Aaron.
 
Hmmm . . . this new technique you guys are describing for wax removal sounds interesting. So, if I'm understanding this correctly you just use the bare pad? There is no MF towel or bonnet used?

Also, Justin I would love to hear more about the Collonite you used in this detail. I recently discovered myself that the look of Collonite is WAY under appreciated on detailing forums. It's not just durable. It looks great too. On the subject of under estimating products, I've found Max Wax is definitely more durable than a lot of people give it credit for. After 2 months, it's often going strong on cars I've put it on.
 
MikeyC said:
Hmmm . . . this new technique you guys are describing for wax removal sounds interesting. So, if I'm understanding this correctly you just use the bare pad? There is no MF towel or bonnet used?

Also, Justin I would love to hear more about the Collonite you used in this detail. I recently discovered myself that the look of Collonite is WAY under appreciated on detailing forums. It's not just durable. It looks great too. On the subject of under estimating products, I've found Max Wax is definitely more durable than a lot of people give it credit for. After 2 months, it's often going strong on cars I've put it on.
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Yep.....I used just the bare E2K White Finishing pad. No towel or bonnets. I just dusted the pad off every now and then. Came back and lightly dusted the car down. The results were amazing and my arms thanked me!

The Marque from Collonite is different than any wax I've used. Smells chemically (durability I bet) and alot like well, wax. It's not creamy like Souv or Max Wax. I moistened my applicator pad with a QD to get it to go on smooth.....recommends it on the can. All you need is a thin layer and let dry.....for a while. I did for an hour. Then with this new technique for removal.....gave some amazing depth on silver. I can't be happier with the Collinite line up so far.
 
Yup 915 has a fairly strong chemical smell, and yes I agree with above. I think the people who said it didn't look good never used it. 915 is awsome, as good as higher end waxes, and it really excells on light colors like silver or white etc.
 
I think when I run out of 845 I'm going to pick up some 915.

Anyway, I put a coat of 845 on my car today to continue to stack up the winter protection (put a coat of DP PSS on the car a few weeks ago). So, I tried buffing off the wax residue with my white Edge 2000 pad. Wow! I was amazed how effective this technique was. I found giving each panel a light mist of QD first made the wax removal even easier. I had no problem buffing the entire car with one pad.
 
"..removing technique which uses their white foam pad acting like like a MF bonnet. Yep. I buffed off the wax at a #5 speed. UNBELIEVABLE! This new technique yeilded some amazing reflection results.."

Just wondering if you could explain this process/tenchnique please. I own a silver car and I know exactly what your talking about the reflection.
 
Nica said:
"..removing technique which uses their white foam pad acting like like a MF bonnet. Yep. I buffed off the wax at a #5 speed. UNBELIEVABLE! This new technique yeilded some amazing reflection results.."

Just wondering if you could explain this process/tenchnique please. I own a silver car and I know exactly what your talking about the reflection.
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Well, to me the most important step with silver (or any car's color) to get the max reflection is preperation. Polishing is very important. The paint has to be clean. Simple. The technique that I used here is very simple. After you've applied your wax and let dry....I mean really dry, Take your softest finishing pad and use it with the PC to remove the wax. I go slow. You want to build up some heat here to get the wax to bond better with paint. The best example that I can compare it to is the the street shoe shine guys. If you notice, they use speed and lots of it to build heat on the shoe's surface bringing out a crystaline shine like no other. I then come back and wiped down lightly with a damp MF.
 
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