Detailing 71 Nova-beginner

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dc772

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Hey, only a few posts in here at Auto Geek. Im relatively new to the detailing world, but I am no stranger to working on and taking care of cars.

Long story short I am only 20 years old. I was raised in the car world (more drag racing scene). Any way I have really started to dig into detailing as Im finishing up the build on my 03 mustang. ive used lots of info from Autogeek to get that car how i want it.

Now, my father passed away almost 3 years ago. Ever since I have been maintaining and driving his 71 Nova (383 sbc) in his honor.

The car is a blast to drive and its has been very therapeutic for me. Now that the background info is out of the way, the car was painted over 30 years ago. While the car was maintained and stored meticulously, it has the typical signs of age. No cracks, dents or anything though. From what I know the car was painted in lacquer, with a GM paint. I have no knowledge regarding lacquer. Im not sure if I need to attack it by hand or machine, what products to use, or if there is a certain step by step process I should use with this paint.

So that leads me to asking for help. The paint looks pretty good in my opinion for its age. But I would like to maintain it to last as long as possible and look as good as it can while doing so. So I am asking for any knowledge or help regarding HOW to properly detail and maintain this car.

I will list the tools and products I have to give an idea of what I may need to buy or what I need to use. I will also attach some pics to give you guys a reference of the condition of the car. Thanks in advance!

Products I have:

Megs: da polisher, ulitimate; polish, compound, liquid wax
Lake Country: 5.5in orange, green, blue buffing pads
Chemical Guys: car wash, quick detail, water spot remover, glass cleaner, fabric cleaner, tire shine, clay bar and lubricator
Mothers: clay bar kit and quck detailer
Croftgate: aquanil waterless wash, tire shine, degreaser


56367d1491792378-help-info-needed-detailing-71-nova-image2-2-.jpg





Wouldnt let me upload the second pic I know its not a great pic as there is little sunlight to really see the paint.

But it gives a reference for the shape in which the 30 year old paint is in.
 
Welcome to AutoGeek.

Mike Phillips has an extensive write up on restoring old paint. You will need t do a search to find it. I would do that, but I am in the middle of finalizing taxes so just don't have time. You can determine if you have single stage paint, or clear coat by polishing a small area. If color transfers to your polishing pad/cloth, you have single stage paint. If not, you have clear coat.

If you will include your location in your profile, a detailer near you may offer to give assistance. If by chance you live near Colorado Springs, I will be happy to assist.

Good luck. Beautiful car.
 
Thanks for the welcome! I will hopefully have time to test that this weekend and then I can figure out the next step. I have read his article on restoring the single stage paint, and another member was really thoughtful and pm'd me to check it out too. Im going to keep reading over it, because right now a lot of it is over my head and the more I read the article the more I understand all the steps he is taking. My issue is Im not sure what step to begin at. The car is in good shape, but not "great." I called the megs customer support this week and the person who took my call told me to take the same steps, tools, and products as we with would newer cars. While he may be right Im not sure yet, I feel like it cant be that simple. Maybe Im over complicating it or my sentimental value may be blurring my logic. Either way before I mess with it, I want to learn and understand how to do it the right way the first time:xyxthumbs:
 
Hi dc772,


I edited your first post, put some breaks into that first huge chunk of text. This makes it easier for people to read so they will read it. Otherwise they'll skip over it.

Fixed the picture code too so the Nova shows up.


Beautiful car!


I have a 1957 Oldsmobile Fiesta Station Wagon in the garage, it's leaving today when Mike Stowe comes to pick it up. It has the ORIGINAL factory lacquer paint. It absolutely GLOWS after machine polishing and waxing.


You can get the same results on the Nova. Lacquer paint is the REAL DEAL. That is it's real paint. Modern cars have basecoat/clearcoat paints and they are more akin to plastic than paint.

Use the Meguiar's compound and polish and the wax. Real simple. Click the link below and watch the video, it will show and explain in detail exactly what to do.


Best video ever on how to machine buff a car from start to finish



:)
 
Hey Mike, sorry I havent gotten to reply all weekend until now. I really appreciate you taking the time to reply, I guess I didnt really expect a reply from Mike Phillips himself! I grew up watching you on various tv shows that my dad had on. Thanks for the advice and the link, I guess in this cars case it really is just a matter of simply compound, polish, and wax. I got the car out of storage this weekend and did a waterless wash (from the advice in one of your articles) and got the car clay bared. I cant wait to see this thing shine when Im done. It amazes me everytime I look at the car, to think that my dad painted the car 30+ years ago in our two car garage!
 
I just looked over your selection of pads on-hand. I suggest you get some white pads and use them first, rather than an orange pad. The white pad is less aggressive and you might find that the white pad used with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is all you need for correction. I that doesn't work to you satisfaction, then switch to orange pads. You always want to start with the least aggressive first.
 
Got it, I will try that first then. Thank you
 
dc772 said:
Hey Mike, sorry I havent gotten to reply all weekend until now.

I really appreciate you taking the time to reply, I guess I didnt really expect a reply from Mike Phillips himself! I grew up watching you on various tv shows that my dad had on.

Thanks for the advice and the link, I guess in this cars case it really is just a matter of simply compound, polish, and wax.

I got the car out of storage this weekend and did a waterless wash (from the advice in one of your articles) and got the car clay bared.

I cant wait to see this thing shine when Im done.

It amazes me everytime I look at the car, to think that my dad painted the car 30+ years ago in our two car garage!
Click to expand...


Great story. Just take your time and most important... don't buff on any raised body lines or edges. Single stage paints tend to be softer than clearcoated paints and it's possible to burn through.

So here's what you do... buff up to and edge... don't buff on an edge.

Also, Meguiar's UC is very safe. Feel some of the compound between your fingers it will feel like Jergen's hand lotion, not gritty like old fashioned compounds.



:)
 
jsgntulok said:
I just looked over your selection of pads on-hand. I suggest you get some white pads and use them first, rather than an orange pad. T

he white pad is less aggressive and you might find that the white pad used with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is all you need for correction.

I that doesn't work to you satisfaction, then switch to orange pads. You always want to start with the least aggressive first.
Click to expand...


I agree.

Test the white pad first and if it's not getting the job done then switch to the orange pad.

I cover this in the video I included in the post.


:)
 
Okay cool, thanks again Mike because I would have buffed on the edges without knowing that. The ultimate compound took some time for me to learn how to use. When I was researching it before I purchased, I read about how its more aggressive than scartch X and such so I had this thought that it was more aggressive than it is. I have a 03 mustang with black paint, prior to me taking care of it the car was relatively neglected. Thats what I used ultimate compound on first and quickly realized that it wasnt as aggressive as I thought and I needed to do a few passes to get some scratches out. Unfortunately that car has a good amount of RIDs in it, and as I read in another one of your posts Mike, sometimes you just have to correct as much as you can and then live with the RIDs
 
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