Detailing a new car???

lucky472

lucky472

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I just did a search and couldnt really find what I'm looking for. I have a 2011 White GTI and all I've done is wash and wax it. I've been nervous to do any sort of correction, but feel as though I want/need to. My concern is messing with the clear coat. My paint has some minor swirl marks, a few small blemishes, and some tiny yellow spots on the rear of the car that I cant get out with normal washing. The back of the GTI is a vortex which collects dirt and dust. Im trying to keep this fairly simple for a beginner and wasn't sure if I needed to treat the entire car or just focus areas. Here's a list of products that I have.
-pc7424
-dodo prime lite prewax cleaner
-several different colored lc pads
-clay and lube
-several soaps
-several waxes, probably going to using collinite 845 again

What would you recommend in detail without going crazy or could you recommend other posts. I just couldnt find any
 
If you want to remove some defects then you might need polish. It would help to know what color pads you have. Have you tried to clay the yellow spots? I usually start with 205 and a polishing pad (White or Green) and go from there. Hope that helps.
 
CAREFUL. Your paint is prob still soft. I would wait until about 100 days have passed to start applying anything. Correction,clay etc
 
My car is actually a year old. I havent used clay on it for about 6 months which was before I had the yellow spots.

The only pads I have are LC 5.5" in white, blue and red I think. Maybe an orange.

Any thoughts on this, and if so what color pads? Do you think it would harm my paint. My concern is messing with the clear coat
German Deep Gloss Combo
 
Your best bet is to do a test spot, an area about 16" x 16" on a horizontal surface, and see what works starting with the least aggressive combination of pad and product. When you find a combination that works, you use it for the whole car.
I would start with Meguiars M205 on a finishing pad. If that doesn't work, go to a polishing pad.
 
Hey man,
I also have a GTI. 2012 in Deep Black Pearl, but I so wish I could have found a Candy White available in my model type (4 door base, have no interest in a sun roof or nav). Luckily I love the look of black cars, but there is a reason I've always avoided them.

Anyways, I'd post my thread, but because I reorganized my photos on flikr, most don't show up. My car was really bad from the dealership. They hologram-ed the hood and swirled many other panels.

I wouldn't worry about ruining it your clear coat. If you can get a 90%+ correction and then do some safe washing, you shouldn't have any concern. I know plenty of people here buff their car's religiously....I'm about to do my own for a 2nd time in order to remove finer RIDs that are leftover from my first ever attempt.

Not knowing what the dealer put on the car, I clayed the whole thing after a good wash. Then went to work.
7145473575_bcac813150_z.jpg

Car looked like that anywhere the flash hit. So not just in that spot. After my first time buffing, got rid of all that.

6999386284_168c53cf32_z.jpg



Long story short, I think you'll be fine doing some correction work. If your blemishes are isolated, you can touch those up and then use the sealant.

I used Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover + Wolfgang Glaze + Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant, and it looked great.
Been keeping an ongoing log of my work. I have some RIDs to take care of this week myself: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/49735-2012-vw-gti.html
 
Bill1234 said:
CAREFUL. Your paint is prob still soft. I would wait until about 100 days have passed to start applying anything. Correction,clay etc
Click to expand...

Please, tell me you're joking..
It's factory paint, the paint is fully cured 40 minutes after being painted.
 
Since the car is a 2011 and I suspect this is factory paint I think its' ready for some correction.

Test spots are important in determining your plan of attack. Try a mild correction medium then gauge your results. If you're satisfied with the results continue, if not then something more aggressive might be in order...

Basic steps in order are:

  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Paint Correction & Polish
  • Seal
  • Wax
Great all-in-one cleaners, I use these with a green, white, and gray foam pads.....:props:
Here's some great information by Mike Phillips that will help you if you need it.

Some product recommendations I like to use.

Wash - Duragloss #901
Clay - Mothers
Compound - PG 1000 – PowerGloss Compound (POS34A)
Polish - PF 2500 – Power Finish Polish (PO203)
Finishing Polish - SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish (PO106FA)
Sealant


Wax - Collinite 845
 
bmwgalore said:
Please, tell me you're joking..
It's factory paint, the paint is fully cured 40 minutes after being painted.
Click to expand...

This is not true: the paint is fully dry after 40 minutes but it is only fully cured after about one month.
Nevertheless, it is not 100 days (this could be true for some very special after-market paint). And you can start buffing right from the first day (Mercedes corrects paint defects, using Menzerna products, within the production line).
 
by the time the car hits the dealer the paint is cured.

it doesnt matter because you can buff on uncured paint anyway.

I had a MK6 2010 GTI. One nice thing about the GTI is that the paint is in "most" cases , super hard. The paint on mine was harder than my paint on my new Audi even.

regular swirls will work with any of your standard swirl removers, but be prepared to have the usual heavy hitters on hand as far as pads. I would imagine you will need atleast an orange pad to do any sort of correction on the paint.

Also, I do fully hear you on the rear of the car. It collects a lot of road debris and by no means should you ever use a quick detailer to clean it off. There is very abrasive road grime and dirt builtup there even after a short drive. My advice is to get a rinseless wash and put yourself on a maintenance schedule of washing it every week on the same day. I have found that rinseless washing correctly has been just as safe or safer than a regular wash.

I also own a white car, and the yellow spots are going to need to be clayed off. If you dont want to do any correction, i would highly recommend you use Pinnacle ultra poly clay. Its an amazing clay that will not mar hard paints at all. Its also a pleasure to work with.

Pinnacle’s Ultra Poly Clay is the single finest clay composition available today. Use auto Detailing clay to deep clean car paint, glass and chrome.

After claying if you want to avoid correction I would recommend and AIO product to clean, polish and Seal the paint. Blackfire makes a great product.

BLACKFIRE Total Polish & Seal, polish and wax, cleaner wax, car polish

Also Optimum makes a GREAT spray-on AIO

Optimum GPS Glaze Polish Sealant

either would probably work very well on your white paint with an orange flat pad (5.5")

Lake Country 5 1/2 x 7/8 inch Beveled Edge Foam Pads, buffing pads, Lake Country curved edge pads, polishing pads

You are going to ONLY want to use 5.5" pads on your PC. So make sure you have the correct backing plate

lake country 5 inch backing plate, 5 inch backin plate, 5 inch hook and loop backing plate

also a couple 4" spot pads would be of GREAT help in a few of the spots on the GTI's front bumper and rear hatch around the plate area. Also in Orange

Spot Buffing 4 inch pads, Lake country 4 inch pads, 4 inch foam pads, 4 inch ccs pads, ccs foam pads

make sure you get the matching backing plate for those as well

3.5" Dual Action Flexible Backing Plate- porter cable 7424XP hook and loop backing plate 3.5 inch.

With an AIO, you should have no problem doing the entire car with 2 or 3 pads. remember , more is better. I would prefer atleast 3.

Using those products will also seal your paint for a good amount of time so you will not need another product to wax or seal. A spray wax would be nice to add on top though.

If you are going to want to go full correction, then continue to ask away and you will find great advice on the forum.

My best advice to you is to keep it VERY SIMPLE. You do not need 4 different color pads and 3 different polish's. along with a sealant and wax and spray wax. Thats the biggest issue I see with new forum members. They have a process that is so overwhelming and most steps or redoing what the previous step has already achieved. Autogeek has quality lines of products that offer what is needed for a full detail. If you go the correction route, I would also recommend using the Wolfgang or Blackfire line for a simple 3 step process or correction, polishing, and sealing.

Create a flawless finish in 2 simple steps with the Wolfgang Duo.

BLACKFIRE Total Swirl Remover Kit
 
The cars paint has cured before it even arrived at the dealer. Don't be afraid to polish on your car. You won't mess up the clear coat at all.
 
Thanks for all of the advice. What does everyone think of this approach. Keep in mind that my car is a 2011 white vw gti and the paint looks pretty good. I have a few minor paint blemishes but that's about it.

1. wash with a good soap (I have several) plus the two bucket method.
2. Clay with the blue ultra clay I have plus lube
3. Then menzena nano polish po 106 fa (what color pad????)
4. wolfgang paint sealant 3.0 (what color pad????)
5. Wax with collinite 845 (what color pad????)

I want to use as few different colored pads as possible. Do I also need to use a prewax cleaner or wash again in between any of these steps?
 
lucky472 said:
Thanks for all of the advice. What does everyone think of this approach. Keep in mind that my car is a 2011 white vw gti and the paint looks pretty good. I have a few minor paint blemishes but that's about it.

1. wash with a good soap (I have several) plus the two bucket method.
2. Clay with the blue ultra clay I have plus lube
3. Then menzena nano polish po 106 fa (what color pad????)
4. wolfgang paint sealant 3.0 (what color pad????)
5. Wax with collinite 845 (what color pad????)

I want to use as few different colored pads as possible. Do I also need to use a prewax cleaner or wash again in between any of these steps?
Click to expand...

  1. Yes!
  2. Yes!
  3. Orange, White, & Gray
  4. Blue or Red
  5. Blue or Red
Once you clay and polish there's no need to use a paint cleaner but wiping down each panel with a product like CarPro Eraser will insure its clean before applying the sealant then wax.

Be sure you let the sealant cure for 10 to 12 hours before applying another coat of sealant or a coat of wax.
 
Some wash after they clay, just a personal preference (imo).
You might want to give a light wash after you use the Wolfgang Sealant though, since you're going to need to let that cure for 12 hours at minimum before you can wax over it (or have any liquid touch it, for that matter, so don't seal it and then leave it outside with the possibility of dew getting on it).


A light/moderate cutting pad for the polish, while a pad with no cut for both the sealant and the wax. Just make sure you get the results you want.
 
BobbyG said:
  1. Yes!
  2. Yes!
  3. Orange, White, & Gray
  4. Blue or Red
  5. Blue or Red
Once you clay and polish there's no need to use a paint cleaner but wiping down each panel with a product like CarPro Eraser will insure its clean before applying the sealant then wax.

Be sure you let the sealant cure for 10 to 12 hours before applying another coat of sealant or a coat of wax.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys and a big thanks to BobbyG. I just placed another $155 order to wrap up all of my needs for a while and to round out my pad selection. I think I have enough confidence to bang out the above approach next weekend. :)
 
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