Detailing Advice Needed

chillip

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I just got my first car as a hand me down from my parents. While its nothing great, I am starting to take better (proper) care of it and have been lurking around on the forums for a while now. I hardly have any funds, so doing a complete overhaul right now is out of the question. I'm trying to slowly add more products over time to fully detail my car. Here's what I'm currently using

Washing: Duragloss
Interior Cleaning: Optimum APC
Interior Protection: Meguair's M40

I was looking at the detailing flowchart from autogeek and using a clay bar seems like the next step for me. I was thinking about buying the Meguair's Clay Bar Kit for this, as it seems like a lot of people suggest it as a quality all in one clay kit.

I was also going to purchase some Ultima Waterless Wash to spray on after washes to add some shine and to touch it up between washes. Would this be a good idea? I was also looking at FK 425 for shine, but it seems like the UWW+ would give me both shine and cleaning between washes.

I would really appreciate it if anyone had any tips to steer me in the right direction or tell me if using a clay bar and QD as the next step is not the right choice.
 
UWW+ will work as waterless wash & your clay lube. Its very cost effective & I use it daily

Meguiar's Clay Bar Kit is decent & will do the job, plus it can be found locally.

As far as FK425, Do you have any protection on the paint? (Wax or Sealant) if yes then FK425 is a great QD that brings back the shine. If not I would invest in a durable sealant,wax, or hybrid. Collinite 845 is a the best bang for the buck right now in my opinion.
 
I'm driving in a 04 car that hasnt had any real maintenance done to it. The only things I have started to do are car washes with DG. After I clay bar the car, will I be able to use any kind of wax or sealant or is it advised that I do more work on it before sealing in anything unwanted? I don't have the funds to buy a polisher with pads or anything like that so is there any way around this?

If UWW+ works as my clay lube, would you suggest a higher quality clay bar? I've read good things about blue magic clay, but it is quite expensive.
 
How about WW, clay, (then wash again), and DG501 polish by hand, then seal with sealant of choice?
 
like all ^ have said. you need some kind of wax on there after clay. being youn and tight on $$ I am sure you are looking at wll mart or somewhere to get best bang for your buck. look for PM from me.
 
I'm going to pick up the clay bar kit today. Would it not make sense to polish my car by hand if I can't purchase a sealant to protect the surface after polishing? Should I not clay bar the car until I get all of these products at once?
 
You should clay before you put a polish on you want the surface to be clean and smooth
 
I understand that I have to clay before the polish but I was asking if its even worth getting polish or even using a clay bar if I don't have the funds to buy a sealant and wax at the moment. From what I understand, polishing your car will take off a little of the clear coat along with any minor swirls and you want to use a sealant to fill in the rest of the really minor swirls and act as a buffer until your next wash when you can add more wax on. So if I polished without a sealant than would I be doing all that work to just rexpose my car to more scratches again?
 
You've got the right idea... Polish should be done in a deepening or corrective means, which can be difficult, near impossible, by an untrained hand. Wax or sealant on an uncorrected car is wayyy better than no protectant at all. So yeah, get your clay bar kit and get a good feel for that, then top it with a Meguiars wax that you can get at walmart. keep the wax up every few months while you save money for a DA polisher. By that time, you may be able to acquire a few produts and a better working knowledge of what you want to achieve on this car. So get wax now, before polish. What city are you in?
 
How about just wash, clay and an AIO product like Klasse AIO? skips the polishing step, and adds decent shine and protection....and you can layer for added longevity...
 
I suggest a cleaner wax like Meguirs if nothing else was being done.
 
I haven't used Klasse, but in reading about it over and over, it's a tremendous product.
 
How about just wash, clay and an AIO product like Klasse AIO? skips the polishing step, and adds decent shine and protection....and you can layer for added longevity...

Klasse is a chemical cleaner . It is very hard to clear up hard water marks with it IMO.

Hard on the hands to clear up that without a DA
 
I've decided to go this route, but still need some advice. UWW+ as a cleaner and as a clay lubricant. Pick up either a mothers or megs clay bar. After clay bar go back with a sealant or wax. This is temporary while I can save up funds to polish the car.

Most of you guys said to use megs ultimate wax after clay bar. I've also read a lot of good things about optimum car wax and megs d156. What's the difference and which one should I buy to follow up after claying if I can only get one at the moment?
 
Listen. Get yourself a product like Colinite 845. Don't get any other waxes. After you wash and clay bar, put on the 845. You will be set for many months. You don't need any spray waxes like OCW or D156. Your main thing right now would be to get a quality sealant/wax that will last you a couple good months.
 
By the way where are you located? I'm sure there are ppl here who would be willing to give you some one on one tips and advice granted you don't live too far.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I read more about the spray waxes I mentioned and now I realize that they are more temporary and I need something permanent like 845. I'm in Hawaii. Not sure if that makes any difference to what I'm going to do...
 
Can anyone tell me or point me to a thread for the best way to apply 845 by hand? I read that you need to apply it really really thin and to warm up the bottle a lot before applying it. This would be my first time doing this so what else would I need to get?
 
Or u can consider duragloss full range? Easy to use by hand and best bang dor buck. That is my polishing regime before i upgrade to a machine polisher

Step 1 Part no #901 shampoo

This shampoo is really foamy..A cap for a big pail of water..If you intend to claybar..go for 2 caps to have more lub..Do not follow instruction..3 caps for a gallon.. You will have foam party..

After washing and rinsing your car.. Dry with a waffle weave or Duragloss drying towel you have.. For waffle weave user..each time before you use..soak into water..dry it and you can start drying the car and for Duragloss drying towel..Do not soak into pail of water during drying process..It will not be possible to squeeze dry the towel..This towel has to be used in dry condition..

After using..you can either air dry it or machine wash..

Step 2 Part no #101 / #501 Marine polish / #652 pre-cleaner
Use a micro-fiber applicator..dam applicator with a bit of water..Apply polishes on to applicators.. a size of a 10cent coin is good enough..Apply onto panel..Thin layer.. hazy and cloudy effect is good enough..Avoid circular direction.. Need not use too force to apply unless for stuborn stains.. Apply whole car and wait for 5 mins to haze and you can start buffing off with a MF cloth.

For white car..#501 is highly recommended as it has uv resistance which hopefully prevent surface from turning yellowish..If surface has some oxidisation, use #652 pre-cleaner as it is more abrasive then the other 2..

Different between 101 and 501..101 gives a wetter finished and 501 has great cleaner in it.

Step 3 #601 Paint Bonding Agent
This step is applicable to those using PBA..If you are looking to push your sealant to 3 to 4 month..This is recommended as it works like a glue for the sealant..Epoxy Part and Part B..if you are not using it..You can proceed to step 4. For PBA..it is very transparent..you may not see the hazy or cloudy effect..Thin layer will do..Need not damp applicators with water..Leave it 10 to 15mins to cure..Need not buff it away..Apply the sealant and buff off everything.

Please note PBA only works with Polymer sealant.

Step 4 Part no #105 / #111 / Trackclaw / Enviroshield or Duragloss Nano ceramic coating.
Use a micro-fiber applicator..dam applicator with a bit of water..Apply on to applicators.. a size of a 10cent coin is good enough..Apply onto panel..Thin layer... cloudy and hazy effect is good enough.. Haze for about 10 mins and you can start buffing off..

If you wish to apply #951 aquawax.. you may do so but not for #521 or #921 quick detailer.. Quick detailer comes in between washes or for fresh water spot..tree sap or bird poo..

If you have both #951 and #521 .. Use #951 weekly or bi-weekly..for daily use will be #521/#921 quick detailer..If you intend to have a coat of #951 aquawax..you can use #521/#921 QD to clean up surface and proceed to #951 aquawax..If you do not intend to use #951 AW.. Simply go round with QD will do.. Just remember #951 is alway the last step...

Take note..For #951 aquawax.. the result will be better after when is cure..some of use have notice the different on the following day..

Tips
Instead of damp applicators with water for #105..Spray a bit of #951 Aquawax on applicators or panel first follow by applying #105..hehe..dun ask me why..try it and you might see something different.

Or after buffing away #105..you can apply #951 AW on applicator and apply on panel.. apply evenly and walk away..No buffing require.. This steps require little bit of skill..hehe.. or else you will get unbuff AW stick on the panels..

And yes all by hands....
 
Klasse is a chemical cleaner . It is very hard to clear up hard water marks with it IMO.

Hard on the hands to clear up that without a DA

It also doesn't do anything for swirl marks from my experience.

I'll also add that you cannot layer Klasse AIO. Secondary applications will only remove the one before it. However, you CAN layer Klasse Sealant Glaze on top of a single application of AIO and it will provide great results.
 
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