Detailing... in the BUFF!

Ohio Detailing

Ohio Detailing

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Ok, not what you think... stop thinking those thoughts fellow detailers! (Although, this could be a very lucrative 'training' class offered by college females...)

So, basically if upon first attempt compound, if the swirls, spiders, lines etc are still obvious, increasing the product, or the pressure, or both?

I know to start least aggressive and work your way up - but I've also been told to let the weight of the buffer do the work (I use Makita)

With a fresh foam pad, medium cutting, last question would be what RPM is optimal for scracth removal? Do I use varying RPM's for light and heavy scratching and marring - or just use longer time-under-buffing to remove deeper scratches before wiping and inspecting and repeating?
 
AaronRaySmith said:
Ok, not what you think... stop thinking those thoughts fellow detailers! (Although, this could be a very lucrative 'training' class offered by college females...)

So, basically if upon first attempt compound, if the swirls, spiders, lines etc are still obvious, increasing the product, or the pressure, or both?

I know to start least aggressive and work your way up - but I've also been told to let the weight of the buffer do the work (I use Makita)

With a fresh foam pad, medium cutting, last question would be what RPM is optimal for scracth removal? Do I use varying RPM's for light and heavy scratching and marring - or just use longer time-under-buffing to remove deeper scratches before wiping and inspecting and repeating?
Click to expand...
My go to method for light scratch spider web removal is a light cut pad, medium cut polish M82 or 83 makita on 3-4 slow repeats across the area, I think it is more effective to work an area at slower speeds than to crank up the rpms, less risk of having to go over and finish down the area even more
 
Are you from Loisville Kentucky? Most of my family is there, I've been there every year almost since I was born, love it there bro! Thanks for the tips...
 
Well if the combo you tried didn't yield the results you were looking for, then you might try going over the area again using the same combo. Maybe the polish broke down before it could get everything out the first time. If that doesn't work then you try changing to a more aggressive pad, or changing to a more aggressive polish. Also you have to take in account what kinda clearcoat you are working on. Is it a soft-coat, a hard-coat? Like everything else, its about trial and error.
Generally higher RPM's are better for removing imperfections, but if its something like marring then I would start with a lower RPM. What kinda polisher do you have?
 
you may need a 2nd pass on the area to remove them. another thing to think about is are the marks you seeing after your first step just marring from the aggressive combo? try a finishing pad and finishing polish.
 
not latly been swamped with work . havnt really bought anything new in a while. also giving my sniffer a rest .:cheers:
 
I light-compounded an entire car (black - 200 Grand AM GT) last night, and after, it looked very hazy, which I understand. But then after I wiped and applied a glze, it was very hard coming off? I prepped right, clay-bar, etc... but I ended up burning about 3,000 calories trying to get the haze and wax residue off afterwards...

I never went above 4 on my Makita, and I used fresh pads...???
 
Oh, also... due to my beginner status, what I did (don't cringe if this is VERY wrong) is applied the polish to a terry applicator 50% of the car, and applied a small stream (like a ketchup bottle I saw the 'pros' do in a bodyshop) directly to the paint, and then evened out with a terry applicator pad...

SO... I think, maybe the polish dried before I got to it with the Makita?? (I think Mike above, said perhaps if it dried it would lose its power)


*Also, is it imperative that I apply the polish or compound DIRECTLY to the foam pad like everyone says? I ALWAYS GET MASSIVE AMOUNTS OF SPLATTER AND SLING that take a long time to wipe off the windows.
 
I prep the pad not finish with polish, and always make sure finish is cool to touch. Use buffer on slow to spread the polish, then turn it up to avoid splatter.
 
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