DFB's Garage

You know when it's a now or never situation and things end up at a point of no return............................



That is a complete engine assembly for a Stihl BG 86 blower sitting out of the plastic chassis. This machine I had to sideline for a brand-new blower because it kept breaking the recoil spring. I assumed it was something to do with the crankshaft bearings as something didn't feel right when pulling on the rope. I didn't have the time to mess about, so it got put away for parts.

A few weeks ago, I pulled it down and found that the engine was loose in the chassis, which was causing it to flex and twist when being pulled over, in turn putting more strain on the starter and starter spring. Hence the breakages. As I stripped it further, I then discovered someone (the dealer) had tried to remedy this with a coarse thread timber screw. Of course I was never told this. So, I thought perhaps I could have a go at doing this repair PROPERLY. Once again, this is why I am doing these jobs myself, no one gives a sh.t and I'm fed up paying for such incompetence.

This shows the damage caused, the timber screw had wallowed out the threads. There are three of these to hold the engine assembly to the blower frame, the hole should be for a M5 fastener, well its beyond M7 here...........



So, after some recommendations, I grabbed this Helicoil kit from Supercheap. Because of the damage, I had to go up to an M6 fastener, which I had on hand after buying an assortment of Stihl hardware last month.


(I paid cash for this kit, much to the bemusement of the young lad on the register, took him a while to figure out how much change to give me. :rolleyes: )





I have never used a Helicoil before, let alone a thread tap. Because of how flogged out the hole was, the supplied drill bit was only used to finish off the work of the wrongly used fastener. The tap threaded in and started cutting smoothly, which was used with some lubricant and the occasional back and forward to help it along. As always, I watched how to do this multiple times, many thanks to the Mr. Dactyl.....................




This hole is an external pass through, so no chance of metal chips entering the engine. The Helicoil insert is then wound in with the supplied install tool, the winding tab then broken free with the supplied punch. I had threads again!



Then it was a case of putting it all back together again. This involves reconnecting the fuel lines before aligning the engine unit back into the frame and the bolts tightened down, the repaired threads torquing nicely. The fan is then put back on the crankshaft with a washer either side, followed by the reverse thread nut, followed by the fan cover. On the other side, the throttle rod is connected to the trigger and the kill wires hooked back onto the coil. From here, the front cover/recoil is reattached, and the blower tube reconnected, which on this machine needs the assistance of three tek screws to hold it in place.............the result of working a hard life.



Having used and worked on countless examples of these blowers since 2002, I know them inside out. There is reason why I've gone to the trouble with this machine, the engine is a bit of freak in that it's always been stronger than other BG 86's I've used. In particular, it revs harder and has terrific throttle response.

Here's hoping this fix holds up.
 
This is me at Sandown back in November 2018. I had just done three laps in a 4-cylinder Jaguar F-Type, the first time on a racetrack................in the wet no less, my instructor Tony D'Alberto. So, I was pumped with adrenalin.......................



For the following run, I was put in the supercharged V6 F-Type. With the extra power and the wet roads, I lost some confidence.

For some reason, I regained my confidence after stepping up to the big-d.ck F-Tyre R with its 550hp supercharged V8, no doubt the AWD system and extra weight gave it a more planted feel. A fellow attendee took a short clip of me hurtling down the main straight...............


This is the most powerful car I have driven. For anyone who has experienced a Miami powered Falcon, you will know that relentless surge of power and speed that is the hallmark of supercharged V8. Well, the F-Type R is the same, but with an extra 50hp and without the torque limiting that goes on with the non-intercooled Miami. Throw in the 8-speed auto and the accompanying heavy metal V8 soundtrack, the experience was only bettered being in the passenger seat with Tony at the wheel................wow, did that paint a picture of how slow I was.................. and how fast he is! :ROFLMAO:
 
That V6 Jag is the sweet spot

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That V6 Jag is the sweet spot

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Everyone tells me that, but the V8 felt sweeter, more planted on the road.

Due to the oddball design of the Jaguar 3.0S V6, there wasn't much of weight saving over the V8. Those supercharged V6's were the 90-degree V8 with the two rear cylinders blocked off. That meant they carried all of the extra bulk in the block and heads as it wasn't a separate casting. It also meant mounting the engine is the same spot as the V8, which meant it had the same front axle overhang. Crazy engine design that didn't really make much sense other than creating a lower power output, nor was it cheaper to manufacture.





 
That's a crazy design of the V6

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That's a crazy design of the V6

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The journalists had a field day over it, as in why bother making a 6-cylinder that doesn't benefit from lighter weight and smaller footprint over the V8.

I just wish Jaguar put the new JLR 3.0 inline 6 in the F-Type, it would have been a brilliant marketing opportunity, as in the spiritual return of the E-Type's inline 6.
 
The journalists had a field day over it, as in why bother making a 6-cylinder that doesn't benefit from lighter weight and smaller footprint over the V8.

I just wish Jaguar put the new JLR 3.0 inline 6 in the F-Type, it would have been a brilliant marketing opportunity, as in the spiritual return of the E-Type's inline 6.


I think the next Supra will have the Mazda inline 6 turbo, Toyota & Mazda do have a relationship....

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I think the next Supra will have the Mazda inline 6 turbo, Toyota & Mazda do have a relationship....

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There was a time in the 80's and 90's where V6's were seen as exotic, which had several brands known for inline 6's transition to V6's. I find it interesting that the inline 6 has come back, Mercedes, Mazda and JLR all have relatively new inline 6's in their lineups that replaced V6's.
 
There was a time in the 80's and 90's where V6's were seen as exotic, which had several brands known for inline 6's transition to V6's. I find it interesting that the inline 6 has come back, Mercedes, Mazda and JLR all have relatively new inline 6's in their lineups that replaced V6's.
T O R Q U E

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First job of the day and after two strips of lawn, the Rover locked up the rears, then wouldn't drive the right rear.............single wheel peel. I know I should have stopped to prevent potential further damage, or at least just pushed the mower, but this thing is just too heavy to push on thick and spongy Kikuyu. With only the one-wheel driving, I needed to both push and steer it straight. Luckily, I only had one lawn to do, so I limped it through and would look at it when I got home.

I've done this enough times now to be confident tackling a task like this. Remove the hub cap, remove the stupid wheel retainer washer, then slide the wheel off the axle.

The culprit? A slipped circlip, which caused the washer to pop off the drive shaft and the pawl going with it. One properly munted washer, the pawl looked fine, as did the circlip....................



And THIS is why I now have a healthy spare parts supply. In this case, all I did was replace the washer and circlip. Reassembled and tested, problem sorted.



On those wheel retaining washers Rover used, I hate them! They are a pain to remove, requiring you to mess about with a hammer and flat screwdriver lever them off the axle. This almost always breaks the stupid things, which means replacement. Then, you need that hammer again to beat the new one back on the axle with an old socket.

https://powermowers.com.au/products...s-set-of-4-a03092?_pos=2&_sid=1f097853c&_ss=r



Rover (MTD) used those clips across the range, from the basic 18-inch steel deck base model, right up to the top of the range alloy deck 22-inch ProCut 560. While Masport also use them on the entry level machines, they switch to a threaded axle and nyloc nut for the high end and Contractor series. Victa use E-clips and on the steel chassis variants, and a combination of E-clips and wire M-clip on the alloy deck models. All preferable to those stupid tension washers.
 
Got the Ranger all cleaned up again today. I've been mixing it up by using rinse-less over the last couple of weeks.............sort of.

First, I clean the wheels and tyres as normal, rinse the whole car, then go in with rinse-less. Today I decided to use DIY Rinse-less Wash teamed with Ceramic Gloss, I keep forgetting how nicely these two play together.



This is the original version of DIY Rinse-less, it's since been updated to a new v2 formula. Apart from v2 being $10 more than v1, the new formula has different "polymer package", which increases lubrication and slickness, while also causing that milkier colour. They claim it took two years to develop and maintain it doesn't "leave anything behind".

Also today, I reapplied ADS Ghost to the tyres. I first applied Ghost to these tyres way back in mid-January and have been very pleased with how it looked and kept the tyres cleaner for longer. You also virtually eliminate the need for strong tyre cleaners, save for the prep work prior to application. In this case, I scrubbed with ReTyre, then wiped down with mineral spirits. This time I applied two coats of Ghost.



The Easter holiday period started today for me.................I can't remember the last time I didn't work over Easter. So, I decided to get both Falcon's out from under their covers and hopefully enjoy some seat time before it starts raining over the weekend.

 
This took so long to arrive that I had forgotten I ordered it, a Sten's branded Briggs & Stratton flywheel knock-off tool. These eliminate the need to mess about with pullers, just thread it onto the crankshaft, lever up under the flywheel and strike the tool with a hammer. The tool also has a brass insert to cushion the impact and prevent flaring out the threads.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2955954...skmzzBxNR5DL3WgfzTKSG4vMXw==|tkp:BFBMyK7u1Mdl





 
Put the finishing touches on the workbench today.

First, a small screwdriver rack that sits between the bottle shelves, which I'm using to hold the specific Stihl tools. I also fitted a light underneath, which does limit what can go in it but the light trade off is worth it.

UKQRRTC Screwdriver Organizer, Wall Mounted Screwdriver and Pliers Holder, Rustproof Iron Screwdriver Rack, Space Saving Wall Screwdriver Stand for Screwdriver Pliers Garage Workshop (23 Holes) : Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement



And lastly, I fitted a bench vice. I looked at few, most of which had a swivel function. After advice here and from my father who was a steel worker in his early years, it was suggested to avoid the swivel type and stick with a simple vice. I also didn't need a anything massive, which when I did the tour of the tool shops, it seems they all offered small and large vices, and nothing in between. And while Total Tools and Sydney Tools both offer decent options on their websites, Sydney Tools only had cheap crap on the shelves of the store I visited, at least Total Tools stocked some decent options. Here's a tip to retailers still running a physical store front, you can't sell what you don't have.................stock it and maybe you might sell it too. What a concept!

In the end, I decided on a ITM cast-iron 100mm mechanics vice, which was sourced from a small independent tool and fastener retailer in town. Both retailers above offer them.................just not in their stores. And to cap it off, the independent threw in two 65mm bolts with nyloc nuts to secure it to my bench.

This particular vice is model number TM100-100.

ITM PROFESSIONAL MECHANICS BENCH VICE, CAST IRON, 75MM - TM100-075 - ITM Industrial Products
ITM Professional Mechanics Bench Vice Cast Iron 100mm For Sale Online – Mektronics
ITM 100mm Mechanics Cast Iron Professional Vice TM100-100 | Total Tools





Overall, I'm very happy with the size and location of the vice on the bench.

So, I'm considering this project completed!
 
I don't know, it always seems I get stuck sitting behind someone doing 10 under limit whenever I drive this car. Is it my impatience, or the fact this car seems to hate low speed driving? It's ALWAYS raring to go and feels like an excitable puppy pulling at the leash.



 
I don't know, it always seems I get stuck sitting behind someone doing 10 under limit whenever I drive this car. Is it my impatience, or the fact this car seems to hate low speed driving? It's ALWAYS raring to go and feels like an excitable puppy pulling at the leash.



Probably think you're a cop.
 
While I have no time for Christmas, Easter is a different story. I think because there is way less expectation and fuss when it comes to Easter, and that suits me just fine. Not to mention it being in Autumn, my absolute favorite time of the year.

I also have amazing memories of the annual Easter camping trip during my early to mid-teens. Those camps were epic, which were several of my Dad's friends and their families. Basically, the adults sat around getting drunk, the kids were left to do whatever they liked. We built our own campfire on the bank of the river, went exploring further down stream, built a fort, and got as dusty and dirty as we possibly could. My specialty was the firewood collection because a) it meant I got to use the chainsaw and b) it also meant I got to drive the car! So whenever I smell a campfire or go for a walk at this time of the year, it takes me back to those carefree days spent camping by the river.

So, making the most of this gorgeous Autumn sunshine, I'm enjoying having Easter off work. This morning, an impromptu drive in the Mustang, followed by a deep clean of the wheels using NV Purge and a rinse-less wash using Hero. Throw in some general garage tinkering, of which one of my favorite things to do is filling up my spray bottles. And then, a lovely walk along the river with my best friend.

Then some seat time in blue........................



 
The Volvo's turn today, and the poor thing NEEDED it! The last time it was washed was Christmas day last year, and in that time, it also did Melbourne to Adelaide and back. The Silver Dawn paint had taken on a matte finish, and the wheels were almost black. Why do the Euro car companies persist with such dusty brake pads?

What you are looking at here is a bit of a chemical cocktail, or as my companion called it, a nuclear reactor treatment. First, onto dry wheels I used up the remainder of KCx Magic Wheel Cleaner, followed with some NV Purge for good measure. I know people like Magic Wheel Cleaner, but to me it never really lived up to the hype. I also had issues trying to spray it through two different spray heads, which is why I went and got the Purge to ensure proper coverage. With MWC and Purge producing a strong purple reaction, I then foamed Bilt Hamber Touch-less over the top and left it dwell for a further few minutes.







You can see how Touch-less works in this shot. As it breaks down contamination, it then pulls the dirt from the surface as it drips downwards.



After rinsing that mess from the wheels, it was then time to go back in with foamed Brake Buster using an assortment of brushes. I hate cleaning these wheels, they look amazing but the ledge that runs behind each spoke is a nightmare to get clean. And of course, the copious amounts of brake dust mean you always have a job ahead of you. That's why I attack these wheels from three different angles, pH neutral iron remover / alkaline pre-wash / alkaline contact wash. Rinsed clean, Hydr02 went on the wheels and wheel arch, Atom Mac on the rotors.

For the paint, the Touch-less was again used as a pre-wash. And this is where Touch-less is so worth having. In a completely touch free manner, you can get 95% off the baked-on dirt from the surface...............which then makes your contact wash considerably easier and SAFER. Carpro Reset was the choice today for the contact wash................



I had help today, so in no time the car wash washed, rinsed and blow dried. To finish off the drying and add a topper to the coating, I used the remainder of a bottle of Carpro EliXir, me doing the initial spray and wipe, my sister following behind with a towel to remove any remaining residue. The door jambs were cleaned with ECH20 while the interior was being vacuumed by my sister (I hate vacuuming).

For the glass, I used Stoner's Ceramic Glass Cleaner for the exterior, then P&S True Vue for the interior glass. The interior got wiped down with ADS Pilot, and the front seats, center armrest and steering wheel cleaned with ColourLock Mild Leather Cleaner, then coated with ColourLock Leather Shield. The rubber floor mats were hosed off then wiped down with P&S Swift.

For the tyres, these had been cleaned with Wise Guy earlier but were also gone over with Tarminator to prep them for ADS Ghost. If you haven't tried this stuff yet, you are missing out! I've found Ghost can be a little glossy on certain tyres, mostly commercial and truck tyres, but it's absolutely gorgeous on lower profile tyres like this. On these, I only applied a single layer.







I'd go as far to say that this is a perfectly dressed tyre, obviously dressed but not overdone..................a subtle enhancement. Detailing Perfection!



A now clean interior with lovely clean, smooth and protected leather. No shine!



 
I’m sure your sister loves driving around in that thing when it’s THAT clean.

The tires look great. I think Ghost may be in my future.


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