DFB's Garage

Great to see you're enjoying the new pressure washer setup, DFB. One day I'll have something as nice as your layout. For now I am happy with my active ve56 setup. That decked out tire dressing looks pretty glossy, does it maintain that gloss or does it become more satin?

The Active is brilliant in terms of flow for the price point, delivering Kranzle like performance for a fraction of the price. Well chosen I say.

Those tires amplify any dressing that goes on them, so they always appear glossy. Although Decked Out at "2:1 for satin finish" is still pretty glossy.
 
Now, you could assume that it's plain idiocy to clean a lawn mower, and you would be correct in that assumption. :lol In my defense, the mower was covered in mouse droppings, so the cleaning was as much making it safe to work on as it was making it look pretty.

First port of call, I soaked the whole mower down with Shine Supply Wise Guy at 50/50 dilution. After a short dwell period, I hosed the mower down with water. This easily stripped any oil and grease accumulated on the engine and deck over the years.





Next, I scrubbed the engine, deck, wheels, catcher and handlebars with Brake Buster at full strength.





I even used a wire brush and some Koch Chemie Magic Wheel Cleaner to brighten up the muffler. At some stage, I will be removing this part and cleaning it further with some metal polish.

After a thorough rinse, I applied some Hydr02 to the whole thing, then I doused it with Hyper Dressing. I then dried it with the EGO and a towel.





For some reason, the left side of engine cover/fuel tank has deteriorated at a different rate to the right side. This whole part is being replaced due to the fuel leak, so it won't matter in the long run.

I'm now waiting on some spare parts, and this 31-year-old mower will be back in action.

Finally, after 107 days, I have the part that's been holding me back from bringing the Rover Combat back into service.



As a reminder, the original fuel tank was leaking, emptying its contents within 12 hours. The only replacement I could find was a OEM part as the aftermarket don't make a replacement for this version.

I will now be able to strip the fuel system from the engine, replacing the fuel tank and fuel hose, remove and dissemble the carb, rebuilding it with a new seal kit. I will then put it back together with a new air filter and finish off by changing the oil. Hopefully the work on the fuel system will solve the surging issue when the engine is at operating temperature.

The big question is, which decal should I apply to the recoil cover? Maybe I should wait until I give it a test run before making that decision. :D

 
As mentioned previously, I decided to order some larger orifice nozzle tips to dial back some of the pressure generated by the new pressure washer.

In general, the smaller the orifice, the more pressure generated. The tradeoff is lower flow rate. When you move up the scale, the pressure decreases and the flow increases. Every pressure washer plays this balancing game to deliver what the manufacturer wants to achieve. This is how cheaper pressure washers make those headline psi ratings on the box, at the expense of the water flow.

However, fitting smaller orifice sizes forces the motor to work harder and draw more current. Also, for car washing, ultimate psi ratings are not the goal, flow is. Ideally, you are aiming for about 1000 to 1400 psi, with as much water flow as possible.

I have been using these Mosmatic rubber shrouded nozzles for a while now, in this case fitted with 4.0 tips.







In operation, this has the KHD10 doing about 1800 psi, which means I have some leeway to dial the pressure back. Looking at the pressure vs flow charts, this puts me at either 4.5 or 5.0 orifice size. Easy, off I went to order some.................

Except the two sellers of the Mosmatic nozzles in Australia do not offer 4.5 or 5.0 sizes. Typical. I didn't want to go back to the unprotected tips, and I'm not completely sold on the MTM Aqualine rubber nozzles.

These Mosmatic nozzles are made up of four parts; the 1/4 quick connect plug, the nozzle holder, nozzle tip and rubber shroud. This means the nozzle tips can be removed and replaced. Which also meant several hours trawling the internet trying to find the correct parts.

I eventually landed on a commercial pressure washing company, their catalog in particular, tracking down the part numbers and placing an order for 25- and 40-degree 4.5 orifice tips.



If this still has the unit delivering too much pressure, I can then step up to the 5.0 orifice.

I complain about having to trawl the internet, but I love doing this, the thrill of the chase!
 
Today was a planned day off, effectively giving me a "weekend" for a change. And I had every intention of doing nothing other than tinkering in the garage!

After waiting 107 days for a replacement part, I was finally able to get the Rover Combat back to operational order.

That part being the replacement fuel tank. Because this is an early Briggs & Stratton Quantum, I needed the earlier version of the fuel tank. The problem here is the aftermarket doesn't make a replacement part, so shopping OEM was the only avenue. This meant waiting for it to arrive in the country, although I strongly suspect the later version of the fuel tank would have fitted this engine, but I wanted to keep it original.

GENUINE BRIGGS & STRATTON FUEL TANK 494351 / 497343 / 699392

Newer style -



Older style -





To recap, this mower was given to me by my longest serving client. It was actually last used by me more than 17 years ago and had sat at the back of the garden shed ever since. At the time, the engine would surge when at operating temperature and there was a fuel leak from the tank, enough to empty the contents within a few hours.



When they cleaned out the shed a few months ago (107 days in fact), he offered it to me, otherwise it would have gone to the tip. Let me say that would have been a huge shame as even though the engine needed some work, the alloy base was in perfect condition and the blade boss even has its original coat of red paint on it.

The first step, previously documented, was a clean to remove 17 years of dust and mouse droppings! :groan (That's Shine Supply Wise Guy for those here for the "detailing".)





For a 31-year-old lawn mower, it looks fantastic. Granted, a 17-year slumber probably has something to do with that.

I then replaced the spark plug with a Champion J19LM, the modern replacement for the CJ8. The old one wasn't too bad, but I was on a roll.





I then made sure to re-torque the cylinder head bolts as these have a habit of backing off over time, especially the exhaust side.



The handlebar locking handles had cracked and were not offering enough tightness, so I replaced those with some aftermarket cam-locks. These are not brilliant, so I will probably look into some OEM ones.





I then waited...........and waited...........and waited........and emailed...........and waited..........and then emailed..........and finally the fuel tank turned up, joining some new fuel line, air filters and a carby rebuild kit. Which is where to take off from today.

https://www.greenacresmowers.com.au/fuel-line-and-clamps-to-fit-briggs-and-stratton-qu
https://www.greenacresmowers.com.au/air-filter-pre-filter-spark-plug-fits-briggs-strat
https://www.greenacresmowers.com.au/carb-repair-kit-for-briggs-stratton-max-quantum-mo



My plan was to simply replace the tank and see how this went. After researching, it was looking likely the fuel leak was causing the surging issue. When the throttle was cracked into the choke, the engine would smooth out, leading me to think that the carby was not the issue and that the engine was simply running lean due to a lack of fuel flow.

First step, I removed the air filter cover, followed by the throttle cable.



I then went to remove the fuel line from the tank, which I immediately found the problem...................



So, the leak was caused by a perished and cracked tank outlet, which finally separated when I went to remove the clamp and hose.



The three top mounted bolts and one side bolt were removed, and the tank lifted off the engine.



New tank ready for install. At this point I realized I had the later version of this tank, which offers a slightly bigger volume and extends further rearwards. Thankfully, it still fitted this engine. The larger fuel volume is not a bad thing, from experience, these engines are pretty thirsty. '



While I was this far in, I wanted to take a look at the carb. This meant removing the air filter housing, which I took the opportunity to clean while it was off the engine. That housing was changed to plastic on later engines. I also cleaned that part. I then removed the old fuel hose from the carb. Also note the breather hose comes away from the metal pipe and remains with the housing.



That hose was well past it, so I'm glad I thought ahead and ordered a replacement.



I then removed the bowl, which is held in place by one single nut which also functions as the main jet. You will also note I had installed the new hose to the carby.



The bowl was surprisingly clean, no sediment or varnish.



Main jet / bowl nut, which was cleaned.



Because of the condition of the bowl, I decided to not go any further. I did however replace the perished bowl o-ring, and replaced the main jet gasket, both included in the kit.



The old carb inlet gasket was in bad shape and was replaced with the item in the kit.



Once the carb was back together, I installed the new tank. I cut the new hose to length and fitted it to the tank nipple. Using the heat gun to warm up the rubber was a stroke of genius!



With the air filter housing reinstalled, it was then time for the new air filter.



This engine was only fitted with the one paper element, but some were also fitted with a foam pre-filter, which I decided to include for thoroughness.



The green filter fits into the plastic cover, the paper filter is then placed over that and then installed back on the engine.



I then installed the recoil cover, which this engine was missing for some reason. The throttle cable was also re-installed.





While it should have had a "Quantum 35 XE" decal, I couldn't find one for sale, so I used the Briggs & Stratton logo supplied with the new tank.





It was then time for a test run. I filled the tank with some fresh fuel, thankfully no leaks from the tank, new hose or from the carb bowl. A this point my heart sank because the thing wouldn't fire. :doh

I removed the plug and sprayed some starting fluid into the cylinder and got it running. I then realized the choke was not engaging, causing the cold start issue, a quick adjustment to the throttle cable solved that. After letting it run for a while, I was confident the replacement fuel tank had solved the surging issues. :dance

It was then time for an oil change.................



I'm not a big fan of using SAE30 mono-grade oil in small engines, this stuff is so thick and syrup like. But these older Briggs had looser tolerances and really needed this type of oil.

The old oil that came out still had a red hue to it, leading me to a theory. I suspect this mower had been serviced before it was put away. Newish looking oil, brand new blades and a decent looking spark plug. I think the thing was serviced in an attempt to address the surging issue, but whoever did it didn't dig deep enough.

Because this is an older Quantum, the carby still has high and low speed adjustment screws. Briggs frustratingly removed those on the later engines, presumably for emissions and to stop owners messing about with them. Those newer engines really don't idle, the throttle only controlling high and low speed running. But this engine can be throttled down to a nice tick over, making catcher emptying much nicer. It also has a more pronounced top end without having to play with the governor to extract those extra revs.

Top end adjustment............



Idle adjustment..............



A little video demonstration.................


That video was taken before I fine-tuned the carby, managing to get the engine to hold a stable idle without compromising the top end performance. I did want to check the rpm's with my digital tacho, but I have somehow managed to lose the dam thing. :doh

People have been telling me to sell this mower. After mowing some lawns with it today, giving it a decent workout with and without load, this thing rips! Despite having a claimed 3.5 hp, low for the 190cc capacity, it has a great top end to compensate. It's not going anywhere! :birds

Such a satisfying little project, one that I would have liked to have completed earlier, but good things come to those who wait.
 
Today was a planned day off, effectively giving me a "weekend" for a change. And I had every intention of doing nothing other than tinkering in the garage!

After waiting 107 days for a replacement part, I was finally able to get the Rover Combat back to operational order.

That part being the replacement fuel tank. Because this is an early Briggs & Stratton Quantum, I needed the earlier version of the fuel tank. The problem here is the aftermarket doesn't make a replacement part, so shopping OEM was the only avenue. This meant waiting for it to arrive in the country, although I strongly suspect the later version of the fuel tank would have fitted this engine, but I wanted to keep it original.

GENUINE BRIGGS & STRATTON FUEL TANK 494351 / 497343 / 699392

Newer style -



Older style -





To recap, this mower was given to me by my longest serving client. It was actually last used by me more than 17 years ago and had sat at the back of the garden shed ever since. At the time, the engine would surge when at operating temperature and there was a fuel leak from the tank, enough to empty the contents within a few hours.



When they cleaned out the shed a few months ago (107 days in fact), he offered it to me, otherwise it would have gone to the tip. Let me say that would have been a huge shame as even though the engine needed some work, the alloy base was in perfect condition and the blade boss even has its original coat of red paint on it.

The first step, previously documented, was a clean to remove 17 years of dust and mouse droppings! :groan (That's Shine Supply Wise Guy for those here for the "detailing".)





For a 31-year-old lawn mower, it looks fantastic. Granted, a 17-year slumber probably has something to do with that.

I then replaced the spark plug with a Champion J19LM, the modern replacement for the CJ8. The old one wasn't too bad, but I was on a roll.





I then made sure to re-torque the cylinder head bolts as these have a habit of backing off over time, especially the exhaust side.



The handlebar locking handles had cracked and were not offering enough tightness, so I replaced those with some aftermarket cam-locks. These are not brilliant, so I will probably look into some OEM ones.





I then waited...........and waited...........and waited........and emailed...........and waited..........and then emailed..........and finally the fuel tank turned up, joining some new fuel line, air filters and a carby rebuild kit. Which is where to take off from today.

https://www.greenacresmowers.com.au/fuel-line-and-clamps-to-fit-briggs-and-stratton-qu
https://www.greenacresmowers.com.au/air-filter-pre-filter-spark-plug-fits-briggs-strat
https://www.greenacresmowers.com.au/carb-repair-kit-for-briggs-stratton-max-quantum-mo



My plan was to simply replace the tank and see how this went. After researching, it was looking likely the fuel leak was causing the surging issue. When the throttle was cracked into the choke, the engine would smooth out, leading me to think that the carby was not the issue and that the engine was simply running lean due to a lack of fuel flow.

First step, I removed the air filter cover, followed by the throttle cable.



I then went to remove the fuel line from the tank, which I immediately found the problem...................



So, the leak was caused by a perished and cracked tank outlet, which finally separated when I went to remove the clamp and hose.



The three top mounted bolts and one side bolt were removed, and the tank lifted off the engine.



New tank ready for install. At this point I realized I had the later version of this tank, which offers a slightly bigger volume and extends further rearwards. Thankfully, it still fitted this engine. The larger fuel volume is not a bad thing, from experience, these engines are pretty thirsty. '



While I was this far in, I wanted to take a look at the carb. This meant removing the air filter housing, which I took the opportunity to clean while it was off the engine. That housing was changed to plastic on later engines. I also cleaned that part. I then removed the old fuel hose from the carb. Also note the breather hose comes away from the metal pipe and remains with the housing.



That hose was well past it, so I'm glad I thought ahead and ordered a replacement.



I then removed the bowl, which is held in place by one single nut which also functions as the main jet. You will also note I had installed the new hose to the carby.



The bowl was surprisingly clean, no sediment or varnish.



Main jet / bowl nut, which was cleaned.



Because of the condition of the bowl, I decided to not go any further. I did however replace the perished bowl o-ring, and replaced the main jet gasket, both included in the kit.



The old carb inlet gasket was in bad shape and was replaced with the item in the kit.



Once the carb was back together, I installed the new tank. I cut the new hose to length and fitted it to the tank nipple. Using the heat gun to warm up the rubber was a stroke of genius!



With the air filter housing reinstalled, it was then time for the new air filter.



This engine was only fitted with the one paper element, but some were also fitted with a foam pre-filter, which I decided to include for thoroughness.



The green filter fits into the plastic cover, the paper filter is then placed over that and then installed back on the engine.



I then installed the recoil cover, which this engine was missing for some reason. The throttle cable was also re-installed.





While it should have had a "Quantum 35 XE" decal, I couldn't find one for sale, so I used the Briggs & Stratton logo supplied with the new tank.





It was then time for a test run. I filled the tank with some fresh fuel, thankfully no leaks from the tank, new hose or from the carb bowl. A this point my heart sank because the thing wouldn't fire. :doh

I removed the plug and sprayed some starting fluid into the cylinder and got it running. I then realized the choke was not engaging, causing the cold start issue, a quick adjustment to the throttle cable solved that. After letting it run for a while, I was confident the replacement fuel tank had solved the surging issues. :dance

It was then time for an oil change.................



I'm not a big fan of using SAE30 mono-grade oil in small engines, this stuff is so thick and syrup like. But these older Briggs had looser tolerances and really needed this type of oil.

The old oil that came out still had a red hue to it, leading me to a theory. I suspect this mower had been serviced before it was put away. Newish looking oil, brand new blades and a decent looking spark plug. I think the thing was serviced in an attempt to address the surging issue, but whoever did it didn't dig deep enough.

Because this is an older Quantum, the carby still has high and low speed adjustment screws. Briggs frustratingly removed those on the later engines, presumably for emissions and to stop owners messing about with them. Those newer engines really don't idle, the throttle only controlling high and low speed running. But this engine can be throttled down to a nice tick over, making catcher emptying much nicer. It also has a more pronounced top end without having to play with the governor to extract those extra revs.

Top end adjustment............



Idle adjustment..............



A little video demonstration.................


That video was taken before I fine-tuned the carby, managing to get the engine to hold a stable idle without compromising the top end performance. I did want to check the rpm's with my digital tacho, but I have somehow managed to lose the dam thing. :doh

People have been telling me to sell this mower. After mowing some lawns with it today, giving it a decent workout with and without load, this thing rips! Despite having a claimed 3.5 hp, low for the 190cc capacity, it has a great top end to compensate. It's not going anywhere! :birds

Such a satisfying little project, one that I would have liked to have completed earlier, but good things come to those who wait.
That's a long wait for satisfaction there, sounds good and strong in the video though.

Sent from my motorola edge 20 fusion using Tapatalk
 
That's a long wait for satisfaction there, sounds good and strong in the video though.

Sent from my motorola edge 20 fusion using Tapatalk

That fuel tank was only available from one online retailer, which listed it as available and able to be ordered. Once I placed the order and gave them my money, surprise surprise, backordered and a 3 month wait for it to arrive for dispatch. Very misleading. And to rub salt into the wound, once it was dispatched, the company placed the item on 30% discount, meaning my $160 order could have cost me $112. Very unfavorable trading ethics there.

Even if I could have found a used tank, it would probably have the same issue. So I was fine paying that price to get the job done.

And yes, its running very well. The new ones simply don't rev up like that without playing with the governor.
 
That fuel tank was only available from one online retailer, which listed it as available and able to be ordered. Once I placed the order and gave them my money, surprise surprise, backordered and a 3 month wait for it to arrive for dispatch. Very misleading. And to rub salt into the wound, once it was dispatched, the company placed the item on 30% discount, meaning my $160 order could have cost me $112. Very unfavorable trading ethics there.

Even if I could have found a used tank, it would probably have the same issue. So I was fine paying that price to get the job done.

And yes, its running very well. The new ones simply don't rev up like that without playing with the governor.
You should have bought another one, then returned the "original" for a credit. But I guess the cost of freight would have made it not worth it.

Hey, is there an alternative to the BPR5ES spark plug for my GCV160, no one seems to carry them in stock.

Sent from my motorola edge 20 fusion using Tapatalk
 
That fuel tank was only available from one online retailer, which listed it as available and able to be ordered. Once I placed the order and gave them my money, surprise surprise, backordered and a 3 month wait for it to arrive for dispatch. Very misleading. And to rub salt into the wound, once it was dispatched, the company placed the item on 30% discount, meaning my $160 order could have cost me $112. Very unfavorable trading ethics there.

Even if I could have found a used tank, it would probably have the same issue. So I was fine paying that price to get the job done.

And yes, its running very well. The new ones simply don't rev up like that without playing with the governor.

Did you call them and ask for them to credit you card the difference for the sale price?

That's industry standard in a 2-4 weeks from the time of sale.
 
You should have bought another one, then returned the "original" for a credit. But I guess the cost of freight would have made it not worth it.

Hey, is there an alternative to the BPR5ES spark plug for my GCV160, no one seems to carry them in stock.

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I found some NGK BPR5ES at these two locations -

Genuine NGK BPR5ES Spark Plug Replaces Champion RC12LYC
https://www.repco.com.au/parts-serv...ugs/ngk-standard-spark-plug-bpr5es/p/A7594348

Lawn Mower Air Filter and Spark Plug for Honda GCV160 Engine 17211-ZL8-000 17211-ZL8-023

The alternative is Champion RC12LYC -

https://www.repco.com.au/parts-serv...-rc12lyc/p/A7703163?kwSearch=CHAMPION RC12LYC

Did you call them and ask for them to credit you card the difference for the sale price?

That's industry standard in a 2-4 weeks from the time of sale.

I'm still waiting for another, even older, order from the company, so I'm not going to bother creating a fuss at this stage.
 
Yet another addition, a wall mounting system for my foam cannons.

Some reasoning behind this. Firstly, I have run out of space in the chemical cabinet for foam cannon storage. Which then had them located under the sink, which hasn't been ideal because of the round tube shelf doesn't offer a stable base.

When I was planning the pressure washer, I was also looking into integrating some sort of mounting system for foam cannons. However, having them mounted with the pressure washer was not going to be functional, as I fill foam cannons at the sink on the other side of the garage. And as usual, no one sells the stainless-steel brackets I was eyeing off locally, and to have them shipped would turn a $25 purchase into a $300 purchase.



RANT - why local detailing suppliers can't innovate or at least try to be riding the wave rather than just reacting to what becomes popular in other countries...........usually several years down the track. I could give countless examples of items or concepts that have taken far too long to be available or at least be catered to by the locals. I can't be the only one wanting these sorts of things in Australia. Maybe I should just do it myself.

Anyway, I decided to go with this Maxshine item because it holds three foam cannons, and I have three foam cannons. :laughing: I also decided to install to the left of the sink, out of the way but close enough to conveniently grab and go.







The quality is fine, I would have preferred stainless steel quick connects rather than brass, however it looks neat and tidy. Once again, this needed to be installed on a solid concrete wall. For this install, I went with some Ramset masonry screws, this being the first time using something like this. The only caution would be to not over tighten, or you will strip the thread.

For this week's detail was the Wildtrak, it's been hard to schedule it this month, rain and more rain.

Today I revisited Gyeon Q2M Tire Cleaner. This was the very first tyre cleaner I used and have tried many since. I never really loved this product; it didn't feel like it was achieving anything, however I thought it would be good to return and see if anything has changed.



And no, I still don't love it. Look, it cleans pretty good and is well priced, but it needs to lather more.
 
Yet another addition, a wall mounting system for my foam cannons.

Some reasoning behind this. Firstly, I have run out of space in the chemical cabinet for foam cannon storage. Which then had them located under the sink, which hasn't been ideal because of the round tube shelf doesn't offer a stable base.

When I was planning the pressure washer, I was also looking into integrating some sort of mounting system for foam cannons. However, having them mounted with the pressure washer was not going to be functional, as I fill foam cannons at the sink on the other side of the garage. And as usual, no one sells the stainless-steel brackets I was eyeing off locally, and to have them shipped would turn a $25 purchase into a $300 purchase.



RANT - why local detailing suppliers can't innovate or at least try to be riding the wave rather than just reacting to what becomes popular in other countries...........usually several years down the track. I could give countless examples of items or concepts that have taken far too long to be available or at least be catered to by the locals. I can't be the only one wanting these sorts of things in Australia. Maybe I should just do it myself.

Anyway, I decided to go with this Maxshine item because it holds three foam cannons, and I have three foam cannons. :laughing: I also decided to install to the left of the sink, out of the way but close enough to conveniently grab and go.







The quality is fine, I would have preferred stainless steel quick connects rather than brass, however it looks neat and tidy. Once again, this needed to be installed on a solid concrete wall. For this install, I went with some Ramset masonry screws, this being the first time using something like this. The only caution would be to not over tighten, or you will strip the thread.

For this week's detail was the Wildtrak, it's been hard to schedule it this month, rain and more rain.

Today I revisited Gyeon Q2M Tire Cleaner. This was the very first tyre cleaner I used and have tried many since. I never really loved this product; it didn't feel like it was achieving anything, however I thought it would be good to return and see if anything has changed.



And no, I still don't love it. Look, it cleans pretty good and is well priced, but it needs to lather more.
Cool storage, they are a pain to keep on a shelf, mine keeps falling over, taking other things with it when it goes. I'll have to work out something custom for mine.

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As a follow up to yesterday's Rover revival, I managed to find where I had hidden my digital tachometer................

Idle speed -



Full throttle, 3600 to 3700 rpm -



While there was headroom to tune it higher, I decided to back it down a touch...........



Most lawn mower engines don't get near those numbers anymore, you are looking at 2600 to 2900 rpm out of the box. With this older engine, I can adjust this with the tuning screws, something missing from all new mower engines. The way around that is to tweak the governor spring tabs but that tends to lack precision, so you need to be careful. More tension on the spring, more rpm, less tension and less rpm. You also need to be mindful that doing this can make the governor more sensitive to load and cause surging.

If you're going to do this, I would also suggest having a tacho to make sure you're not going too far. Like the Beer-Bob who mows my Neighbours lawns, his Honda GXV 160 sounds like it's about to take off, I reckon he's got it spinning close to 5000 rpm.
 
Where did you find those little stainless foam cannon mounts? Would be perfect for a cart.


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The little square mtm foam cannon mounting plate looks to be amazing build quality.

Unfortunately it is $80 US…..


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Coatings - Seems like you could make something similar with an extra quick connect, a 1/4 NPT bolt or fitting, and a plate of your choice. Bet you could pull it off for pretty reasonable.
 
Coatings - Seems like you could make something similar with an extra quick connect, a 1/4 NPT bolt or fitting, and a plate of your choice. Bet you could pull it off for pretty reasonable.

Got curious and poked around quick -
Aluminum block pre drilled for 1/4 NPT with holes to mount to wall: $10.
1/4 to 1/4 NPT adapter: $1.50.
1/4 quick connect fitting: $10 for a 3 pack (seems like you must be able to find one for cheap, I just didn’t dig that hard)
 
Got curious and poked around quick -
Aluminum block pre drilled for 1/4 NPT with holes to mount to wall: $10.
1/4 to 1/4 NPT adapter: $1.50.
1/4 quick connect fitting: $10 for a 3 pack (seems like you must be able to find one for cheap, I just didn’t dig that hard)

Where did you find the plates?


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