DFB's Garage

This came into my feed today, I thought you might like it.


Showstopping Barra-swapped Jaguar XJC



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I don't normally like highly modified cars, but OMG, yes yes yes....................



It's a Jaguar, its British Racing Green, its got a contrasting caramel interior, and a beautifully finished inline 6. I really like how they managed to keep some of the original Jag chrome theme with the engine....................



One would assume it would actually be reliable having a Barra fitted. I probably would have dropped the turbo and kept the car naturally aspirated, more in keeping with the car rather than the explosion just waiting to happen with an F6 spec engine.
 
Seven days in a row working. I staggered out of bed this morning but really had no motivation to do anything. But, I pressed on.

I had a last-minute request for the Wildtrak to be detailed, so I used that to try a couple of products I have been sitting on for a few weeks now.

First, Gtechniq Citrus Foam -



This pre-wash soap is designed to strip away contaminants prior to a contact wash. Unlike a lot of these pre-wash foams, this product is pH neutral, meaning its gentle on waxes and sealants. From what I can gather, rather than using a high pH, the natural degreasing nature of the citrus element helps to strip away the grime. Despite excellent foaming, it didn't really wow me with its touchless cleaning ability.

The next product was Gtechniq Tri-Clean -



Despite the weird eucalyptus scent, I actually quite liked this. Compared to other interior cleaners, Tri-Clean has the ability to kill bacteria and neutralize odors. It's also pH neutral, making it multi-surface safe, and leaves a matte finish. My personal interiors won't require this product, but I can see this being a great option for professionals wanting to clean, sanitize and neutralize odors in one simple step.

I'll be completely honest here, I have not been wowed by Gtechniq in the past, a theme that seems to follow most, if not all, of the UK-based brands I have tried, including WoWo's, Autoglym, Auto Finesse and Stjarnagloss. Of the selection of Gtechniq products I have sampled, only Tri-Clean impressed, everything else has been meh. I have no idea why this trend plays out with the UK brands, it's not from a lack of investment or effort, so perhaps it's a philosophy difference between Aussie/US type detailing and what happens in the UK?

In any case, I think I'm now at a point where I have a collection of brands and products that I know work for me from a performance and user experience point of view. Have I reached peak detail?
 
After posting the musical sounds of the XR8 last week, I wanted to document how a different exhaust setup changes an otherwise similar engine architecture.

My 2017 Mustang was fitted with a Borla Touring cat-back within months of my ownership. I had never modified an exhaust to that point, but the thing was too dam quiet, even the grandpa burgundy XR8 was louder. For an American muscle car, it wasn't living up to its reputation of a loud and proud pony car.

I ended up looking at both Roush and Borla systems, mainly because they had an OE looking tip design. I wanted extra volume but didn't want to be "that guy" with the noisy car. I settled on the Borla Touring in EU spec, which includes a resonated H-Pipe to eliminate rasp and drone.







Even with the resonator, this exhaust is not exactly legal in terms of noise emissions. However, below 3000rpm, the car is quite stealthy, just a natural V8 burble. However, clear 3000rpm and all hell breaks loose!

I still have the original exhaust taking up space in storage. That thing had very little time on the car, but look how manky it looks covered in the hideous black paint they spray export cars with.









Anyway, the reason for this post.

Cold Start (I love cold starts, so much noisier than a hot start) -


Hot Start & Revs -


The Borla Touring produces a much deeper and more traditional V8 tone. In hindsight, I think I would have preferred a little bit more snap-crackle-pop in the same vein of the XR8. In which case, I should have chosen the Borla S-Type with the X-Pipe.

But I do love how subtle the Touring can be when needed, while still being obvious unlike the OE exhaust. On the other hand, it properly howls when given a boot full, without drowning out the delicious induction note. Surely this is the best combination, allowing the engine itself to bark back through the firewall, while providing just the right amount of exhaust noise to permeate through the cabin.

I hear a lot of Mustang exhausts and while they are loud, they are just that, loud. In that I mean they lack any tonal tuning, so you get ALL of the noise, be that the good or bad noises. I think this is where choosing a brand like Corsa, Borla or Roush comes into the equation. I remember when I was asking the local shop about exhausts, they wanted to sell me some off the shelf mufflers and tips. To me, that would have been potluck and I didn't want to be messing around with different combinations at my expense. At least with choosing a system like this, there are plenty of online sound clips to gauge what it will sound like. Not to mention the simple, straightforward install.

As it stands, I'm not sure what I will do with the S650 when it arrives. Ford nailed the brief with the Active Exhaust on the later S550 and new S650. However, it looks like the S650 has been toned down to meet ADR laws. In which case, I may just swap out the resonator for an X or H pipe and leave the rest.
 
Sounds nice Deyon, I fully understand where you're coming from, I've modified the exhaust on all but 2 of my vehicles. I never touched my first car, the Datsun Bluebird, or the VEII Berlina, because neither would have benefited, and they would have sounded rubbish.

My favourite was when I modified my VR SS 5.0 V8, they gave me the option of 3 different rear mufflers, I stood at the back of the hoist while they swapped them, gave it a rev, and asked me which one I liked, the loud one obviously. But those old Holden 308s always had a great sound with a good exhaust.

I've been considering going further with the FJ. I'm currently on my second sports muffler, shortly after I bought the FJ I enquired with an exhaust shop I know about changing to a sports exhaust, they recommended just changing the muffler, it only has one, and it's a big one, and the pipe is already a good size. So I changed to a sports muffler, then went back within a year and changed again, I wanted more sound, it's currently running a Redback sports muffler. I'm considering a complete muffler delete, just replace the current one with some straight pipe, and if that's too loud I can always get a muffler put back in.

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Now that the warmer months are here, over the next few months I want to start getting some videos of my cars. I have started doing that while stationary, but I now have a camera mount so that I can take in-car videos. My main aim is to capture some footage of the Mustang before it departs the building, a car that I really want to keep but must make way for the new car.

I also want to contribute to the somewhat limited number of videos depicting Falcon's in stock standard form, rather than the usual modded P-Plate specials. And while I love V8's, I've been a fan of inline 6's since I was a teenager, especially the raspier nature of naturally aspirated ones.

Not my videos, but one that shows the somewhat thrashy rasp between 4000 and 6250 rpm on the big Barra. My favorite part is that slight pause then snarl on upshift...............



This seems to be the only channel that does it properly...................

The naturally aspirated Barra's had virtually no exhaust note.



The turbo Barra's had some exhaust bass, you can here the BMW 3.0 turbo in there.................


 
That induction sound

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Ford never paid much attention to the sound of the inline 6 up until the 2005 BF, and properly on the FG in 2008 with the composite intake manifold. Previous to that, they made the engine and then put it on sale, job done. Keep in mind, the Falcon 6 could trace roots back to 1960, so it sort of always had an industrial feel and sound to it. The DOHC 24-valve head in 2002 rectified most of that, but they then started to tune the intake sound from 2005 onwards. Everyone seems to prefer the turbo version for sound, and I can see the appeal of the deeper exhaust note, but the turbo muffles the intake sound. So I tend to prefer the thrashy induction note of the N/A.

But the best bit? It's all REAL sound.
 
and where has the rock star been with all this time in the garage? I certainly hope he's had a pawt in all this... :p
 
and where has the rock star been with all this time in the garage? I certainly hope he's had a pawt in all this... :p

The pop star lounges on her fabulous red chair and keeps me company as I work.........................





Oh, oops, you said rockstar. Sorry about that, yes he is a faithful companion...........................

 
I know you love your red Mustang, but I saw this one walking the dogs tonight. This is the one I've mentioned before, looks good at a distance, but a bit swirly up close. I couldn't resist taking this shot. It can be a very rewarding colour, for somebody who knows what they're doing.
e9e8d800f0a4b46ee1e28de468b9218c.jpg


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I know you love your red Mustang, but I saw this one walking the dogs tonight. This is the one I've mentioned before, looks good at a distance, but a bit swirly up close. I couldn't resist taking this shot. It can be a very rewarding colour, for somebody who knows what they're doing.
e9e8d800f0a4b46ee1e28de468b9218c.jpg


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Looks like either Deep Impact Blue or Lightning Blue.

Deep Impact Blue (my favorite) -






Lightning Blue -






The current mid blue / Ford corporate blue is Atlas, which was my second choice for color -



 
Pretty certain it's Deep Impact Blue. Here's a shot I took a week or two back, from a distance. Included the Falcon next door cause I knew you'd appreciate it.
45197e89230cb1bc9978014b223c4df4.jpg


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Pretty certain it's Deep Impact Blue. Here's a shot I took a week or two back, from a distance. Included the Falcon next door cause I knew you'd appreciate it.
45197e89230cb1bc9978014b223c4df4.jpg


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Pretty sure that's Deep Impact Blue..................................and Nitro on the Falcon.
 
XR6 Brake Upgrade

After having the wheels off the XR6 last month, it spurred me to act on something that has been on the maybe-one-day list.







Falcon’s were never renowned for braking performance. These were fleet, rental, police and taxi cars first, and performance orientated cars a somewhat distant second. I don’t say that to insult the Falcon or its fans, rather it's a realistic assessment of a car that had to sell in both volume and at low cost.

That low cost covers several different viewpoints. Firstly, the car needed to be attractive to fleet buyers, as in the ones who kept the factory volume up. To do that, Ford needed to offer an attractive per vehicle price, at the same time keeping running and repair costs low. In other words, provide a lower total ownership cost than the competitors. This is why Ford gained ground in fleet sales by offering 15,000 km intervals compared to Holden at 10,000 km service intervals. If a fleet kept the cars for 80,000 km before turning them over, each car would need just over 5 services in that time, a Holden would need 8 over the same period.

What does this have to do with brakes? Well, smaller brakes are cheaper to make, and cheaper to service/replace in the field. And this is why a large, powerful RWD sedan weighing beyond 1700 kg (3750 lbs) was fitted with braking hardware smaller than some small hatchbacks.

The standard Falcon braking hardware from the 2002 BA, right through until the very last FGX Falcon made in October 2016, was the same throughout. Even the BA and BA MK II XR6 Turbo and XR8 got this system –

Front – 298 mm x 28 mm ventilated rotors and twin piston sliding calipers.
Rear – 303 mm x 16 mm solid rotors and single piston sliding calipers.



Ford did offer a much better Premium Brake system as a factory option on all BA and BA MK II XR sedans, the same fitted to the FPV GT, but uptake was low. The limited-edition BA MK II XR8 Devil R and XR8 Enforcer editions also featured those brakes as standard, as were a lot of early BA Falcon press cars. At the time of writing, even after raiding my image collection and scouring the internet, I could find little to no images of this system, be that the black Ford branded or the blue FPV branded examples.



Fun fact, if you paid the $2950 for Premium Brakes on a BA XR6/XR6T/XR8, your car went across the road to FPV for them to be fitted, and a matching alloy spare wheel was a mandatory option.

From BF onward, Ford deleted the Premium Brake option, and all XR6 Turbo and XR8 models came with an upgraded factory fit system (the NA XR6 missed out on this, nor was it an option) -

Front – 322 mm x 28 mm ventilated rotor and twin piston sliding calipers.
Rear – 328 mm x 26 mm ventilated rotor and single piston sliding calipers.

From what I can gather, at some point in the BF MK II run, and then onwards, those specs changed again with the rear reverting back to the standard 303 mm solid rotor and smaller caliper. Again, cost control in the lead up to the new model. For FG, this spec was also used on the G6E Turbo and FPV GS models as well.

Front – 322 mm x 28 mm ventilated rotor and twin piston sliding calipers.
Rear - 303 mm x 16 mm solid rotor and single piston sliding calipers.

I should point out that in normal driving conditions, the brakes on my XR6 are fine, but nothing more. The pedal feel is mushy, and the braking ability limited in performance orientated driving. My main gripe being a lack of stamina, you get one or two big hits and that’s it, the pedal gets longer, they start to shudder and become quite noisy. Which is where this upgrade comes in.

To be clear, I wanted Brembo’s, for the performance but also the looks. However, despite Brembo’s being a direct bolt on and fitting within an 18-inch diameter wheel, the front caliper won’t clear the back of the spokes on the XR Snowflakes. And I was not prepared to forego those beautiful wheels or pay for a new set of wheels and tires. A Brembo package with new wheels and tires would be near on half the value of the car itself. I like setting fire to cash, but not that much. :laughing:









So, this is where I went looking for something that would scratch the braking itch, while being cost effective and without losing those wheels.

A few years ago, you could still buy a PBR upgrade kit, which in effect was a BA GT / BA Premium Brake system with larger/stiffer C5 calipers and larger grooved rotors. In this case, the calipers were painted red rather than blue or black. However, those kits are long gone.

https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11357450
https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11452132



I also went looking for an after-market solution, which I found a couple of vendors selling aluminum mono-block 4, 6 or 8 piston calipers that would fit a variety of wheel styles rather than the set list of FPV-specific wheels. But………………I just didn’t love them, too “aftermarket” looking and questionable quality. Brakes aren’t something to take a gamble on in my opinion.

https://www.performancesuspension.com.au/ford-falcon-fg-2008-on-xyz-racing-6-pot-355mm-fixe~17089
https://www.vari.com.au/product/falcon-fg-fgx-gtp-kit/





So with that, I settled on a tried-and-true Falcon upgrade, fitting the BF – FG XR6 Turbo brake setup. In this case, the calipers all round remain the same, but the front rotors are increased from 298 mm to 322 mm.

The first requirement for this upgrade is a larger caliper support bracket. This is for the front only, the rear setup stays as is. These are available from the aftermarket or by sourcing a set at a wrecking yard. In my case, I ordered a new set online.

https://www.planetparts.com.au/ford-ba-fg-falcon-front-brake-upgrade-caliper-supp
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/292209993994





The above bracket allows for the fitment of the larger front rotors. But what rotors? Because Ford used the same brake systems from 2002 to 2016 on Falcon and Territory, the availability and choice of spare parts is a huge bonus of these cars. Ford OEM rotors are still available, but I decided to go a few steps beyond that and looked at DBA’s range of aftermarket options. It’s at this point I reached out to Matt from Race Brakes Sydney for some advice.

https://www.racebrakessydney.com.au/
https://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=174

In my case, I skipped the OE-replacement 3000-series and went straight to the 4000 series in T3 spec. While DBA offer cross drilled and slotted 4000 XD and 4000 XS designs, Matt suggested sticking with the 4000 T3 slotted rotor. For the fronts, 322 mm x 28 mm ventilated rotors were chosen, the rears remain the same OE size solid 303 mm x 16 mm rotors.

https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-t3-brake-rotor-dba42107s/
https://dba.com.au/product/rear-4000-series-t3-brake-rotor-dba4505s/





For pads, Matt recommended Project Mu NS-EP on the front, catering to my low dust/low noise requirements. On the rear, DBA Street Performance pads.

https://www.project-mu.co.jp/en/products/pad_ns-ep.html
https://dba.com.au/product/rear-street-performance-brake-pads-db1376sp/

Initially, I was going to leave it at that, however I decided to change the original 15-year-old rubber brake lines for Goodridge braided stainless steel items made by Matt for the Falcon. This modification should reduce that mushy brake pedal feel.

A few days later, some very HEAVY boxes arrived from Sydney...............



So, to recap –

- 24mm larger and upgraded front rotors
- Upgraded front pads
- Upgraded rear rotors
- Upgraded rear pads
- Braided stainless steel brake lines for each corner
- Penrite Super Dot 4 Brake Fluid (The fluid was last changed in 2019 :doh:)

With the above, I was hoping incremental improvements in key areas would add up to a more capable whole.

And this is where I changed my direction……………………

Up until then, I had intended to install these new parts myself. The key aspect being everything was a simple bolt on. But messing with the brake fluid, as would be required when changing the brake lines, was not something I was confident doing. So………………….I chickened out and had a local mechanic do the job for me. While I have been getting more and more confident doing mechanical work, messing with such an important safety system on the car didn’t appeal to me. I guess I could have done the rotors and pads myself, then passed the lines onto the mechanic, but I just decided to let them do it all. (Notice the Galaxy Blue AU I XR8 in the background, which was sounding very healthy as I picked up the car. If you think the FG's brakes look and sound underwhelming, those things were even worse with 287mm rotors and single piston calipers all round. :eek:)









The main visual giveaway is the green Project Mu pads, otherwise this is a subtle looking upgrade, which suits me just fine. I'm sure if I had the dust shields removed, they would be more noticeable......................







While I haven't had a decent run with the new brakes, on the drive home from the mechanic, the first thing I noticed was the considerably smoother feel under foot and lower noise levels. I was expecting to have to bed them in, but they actually did that for me. I'm looking forward to giving them a decent hit in the future.

Cost BRAKE down -

I’m including this to give a better picture of what this modification costs.

XR6 Turbo Caliper Support Bracket - $69.00 (Normally $170)
4000-Series T3 Front Rotor - $265 each / $530 total
4000-Series T3 Rear Rotor - $200 each / $400 total
Project Mu NS-EP Front Pads - $198 set
DBA Street Performance Pads - $100 set
Goodridge Braided Brake Lines - $298 (set of 4)
Freight - $88.00 (Pickup is available for those in Sydney)
Penrite Super DOT 4 Brake Fluid 500ml – $19.00 each / $38.00 total
Fitment Labor - $385.00

Total Price - $2106

Yes, a lot of money. In terms of brake fluid, that is supposed to be replaced every two years anyway, and the rubber OE lines are now over 15 years old. One a maintenance item, the other preventative maintenance. The OE rotors and pads are virtually brand new, but most 15-year-old cars would have had at least one pad and rotor change in that time.

The side bonus of this upgrade is that I may have found a mechanic I can trust. For many, that is one of the biggest problems a car guy can face, finding someone who is knowledgeable and treats the car like their own. This is a smaller two-person operation, one that I had to wait several weeks to get an appointment. To me, that says a lot.
 
Excellent value. Worth every penny. And kudos finding a local shop you can trust for quality work.
 
While the XR6 was getting its new brakes yesterday, it was the Ranger's turn for a wash.

Once clean, it was onto polishing the headlights...............again. :doh:



Observation, Rupes DA Coarse is brilliant!! In this case, I used it on a Rupes yellow wool in rotary mode, and it cleared the haze that appears on the horizontal surface of the headlights with ease. I followed with Rupes DA Fine on a Rupes yellow foam.

In most cases, I would say never polish your headlights unless absolutely necessary. Polishing degrades or removes the UV coating applied at the factory. However, once you start to notice UV damage, it’s too late anyway, so polish away.

I don't know what to do with these lights. Keep polishing them out, have them covered with clear PPF, or replace them entirely. The PPF option is not easy because it seems like no one in this area is interested in applying PPF, an open opportunity it would seem. Replacement would require the removal of the bumper and upper grill. The other option I'm toying with is Optimum Opti-Lens Headlight Coating, but as usual for Optimum, there is not a lot of information provided about how long it lasts.

Onto one of Carpro’s latest products, ClarifyPhobic ceramic glass cleaner.



The concept here is to provide hydrophobic qualities to the glass, joining a small group of similar products from the likes of Gyeon, Stoner and Optimum. It can be used as a standalone, or in conjunction with an existing glass coating. Although slightly muted, this product has the same banana scent of the regular Clarify.

I probably should hold off judgement until I have tried it further, but I think I can tell very early on if a product is good or bad. But, well....................

While the bottle says “streak free glass cleaner”, you have to work for it! While at a glance, the glass looked fine, under closer inspection or in just the right light, I could see smudging and streaks in isolated sections. Normally, streaking occurs from using the wrong towel or if the glass is too hot. Neither was the case today. And that was on a best-case scenario in that it was used on glass with an existing glass sealant.

I have to say, it's sort of surprising Carpro put their name on this product. I would say that the glass was clearer after using my drying aid on the glass than using ClarifyPhobic. Bead Maker, OG Drying Aid or DIY Ceramic Gloss would do a better job at this.

Today, it was the XR6's turn for a wash.



Now that I can actually see the rotors behind the wheel, I now feel inclined to use Atom Mac on this car.

For today, I used up the remainder of a bottle of the delightful GSF in my foam cannon, which was used to clean the wheels and the rest of the car.



Bead Maker was the drying aid, for some reason this car really likes that product, it was also used on the door jambs, wheels and engine bay. For the glass, I used the tried and true Stoner's. Tires dressed with OG T/D.

Last job, cleaning the bin with my latest reject, Mirch Blue Candy. I used it once and instantly hated the scent, it's just smells too much like a public restroom cleaner. :(

 
Well damn, I just ordered some Clarify Phobic, I'll have to see if my results differ. I really like Ech2o on glass, so I thought maybe something they designed specifically for glass might be even better. Oh well, it was on sale anyway.

And to give you a laugh, given your comment about that product smelling too much like a public toilet cleaner, I worked with this guy years ago, he annoyed me so much one day, I got a couple of urinal cakes the cleaners stored in our warehouse and hid them under his desk, from that day on till he left 18 months later, his cubicle smelt like a men's toilet, nobody could figure it out. When I play practical jokes I play a long game.

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Well damn, I just ordered some Clarify Phobic, I'll have to see if my results differ. I really like Ech2o on glass, so I thought maybe something they designed specifically for glass might be even better. Oh well, it was on sale anyway.

And to give you a laugh, given your comment about that product smelling too much like a public toilet cleaner, I worked with this guy years ago, he annoyed me so much one day, I got a couple of urinal cakes the cleaners stored in our warehouse and hid them under his desk, from that day on till he left 18 months later, his cubicle smelt like a men's toilet, nobody could figure it out. When I play practical jokes I play a long game.

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As I said, I probably should have waited before passing judgement, so I would most appreciate your feedback on ClarifyPhobic. A product needs to wow me from the very beginning, its hard for something to gain ground in my routine if I don't find it enjoyable to use.

As for the urinal cake trick, do you mind if I steal that idea? :D
 
As I said, I probably should have waited before passing judgement, so I would most appreciate your feedback on ClarifyPhobic. A product needs to wow me from the very beginning, its hard for something to gain ground in my routine if I don't find it enjoyable to use.

As for the urinal cake trick, do you mind if I steal that idea? :D
I'll let you know how I go with it.

Go for it with the urinal cakes, I taped one up in each corner under his desk, they only had about half open to the air so they weren't completely over powering, but every time you went near his desk it smelt like a toilet.

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