DFB's Garage

Hell...we're trying to get the law changed here in Illinois to not need a front plate, Covid slowed it down but I hope we get back to it

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Stalked in the past i hope she didn't ride you too hard in that little red dress she was wearing. Im the MAN
 
Stalked in the past i hope she didn't ride you too hard in that little red dress she was wearing. Im the MAN

Well, if that "she" in the red dress was the divine Miss M, I wouldn't mind here stalking me.........................:D



She even likes Ford's....................

 
Deyon, that TWHS tire/wheel cleaner may not smell good but IMO works better than Brake Buster as far as cleaning ability. As you know Brake Buster is a great maintence cleaner and keeps the rotors from getting AS rusty but Hyper Foam pulls brown out of tires like nobody's business, something not really an issue on your fleet but those other cars you do, it's soooo rewarding to use, sans the smell

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Yeah I just re up’d on BB as I didn’t like that TW can’t recommend on all wheels. Will use TS or 303 on tires.


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The only times where I have been left wanting with Brake Buster is when I have diluted it. In which case, I would agree with the notion that Brake Buster is best suited for maintenance rather than hardcore cleaning. When used as P&S intended, at full strength, it's fine for deep cleaning tires and decently capable when cleaning truly dirty wheels.





If you go to the trouble of diluting Brake Buster and therefore reducing it to a "maintenance" product, then you may as well just use soap. And that's what I do for my own cars because soap nicer to use than a harsh chemical.

I find it interesting that when reading P&S product listing for Brake Buster, other than stating that it has "intense foam action", there is no mention of dilutions. I also seem to remember Bob Phillips saying that while it can be diluted, Brake Buster was not intended to be diluted.
 
The only times where I have been left wanting with Brake Buster is when I have diluted it. In which case, I would agree with the notion that Brake Buster is best suited for maintenance rather than hardcore cleaning. When used as P&S intended, at full strength, it's fine for deep cleaning tires and decently capable when cleaning truly dirty wheels.





If you go to the trouble of diluting Brake Buster and therefore reducing it to a "maintenance" product, then you may as well just use soap. And that's what I do for my own cars because soap nicer to use than a harsh chemical.

I find it interesting that when reading P&S product listing for Brake Buster, other than stating that it has "intense foam action", there is no mention of dilutions. I also seem to remember Bob Phillips saying that while it can be diluted, Brake Buster was not intended to be diluted.
I agree with all of this ofcoarse but the one thing BB has going for it over soap is keeping the rotors from getting AS rusty and I'd be willing to bet is better for the other metal bits in there.

That said, I do think they should make a revision in the directions about diluting it because it has to be when used in a foamer, any foamer and would add a layer of honestly to a noon user of the product and thus probably sell more product in the future

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Latest decal additions to the garage.................







Once upon a time, you would collect things like this at motor shows. Sadly, those are a thing of the past, at least in Australia. Redbubble to the rescue then.................

Awesome products designed by independent artists | Redbubble
Yeah, nobody gives them away anymore. I have an old cabinet in the garage, I've been hunting decals to put on it. I've been to all the major auto parts stores, no one has any, not even their own brands. There's a couple of brands you might recognise.
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Two rinse-less washes today, giving me a change to use my new big-a.se measuring jug, appropriately decorated of course!



With rinse-less washing, your measurements need to be accurate to allow the chemical to perform as intended. Counting out 7-odd liters of water is both tiresome and potentially adds a layer of miscalculation into the mix if you get distracted. Of course, I could have just put a mark on my bucket, but that would be janky! :lol

So, enter this large 5-liter measuring jug.................



Today I used N-914 on the Ranger to prep it for an application of a new product that I have been looking forward to for a while.



Carpro Reload was one of the original spray ceramic sealants and offered ceramic coating-like gloss, slickness and water behavior. Reload was designed as a protective layer for freshly applied coatings and as a maintenance product to extend the life of an existing coating. Over the years, despite a few minor updates, it's application and durability did come into question as newer and improved rivals emerged.

I used Reload as a stand-alone coating for a number of years, enjoying it's qualities and easy application. Keep in mind, my use of LSP's to that point had centered around paste or liquid waxes and sealants that really needed a certain degree of effort to apply. Durability was never an issue for me, mainly because of how my cars are used and stored, but also how simply reapplication was.

But, as the competition exploded, Carpro needed to update Reload to keep it relevant..............Reload 2.0 is the result, which was released in Australia mid February.

The main improvements centered around improving the application process and durability. Quoted longevity is up to 3-months on a daily driver, expect much longer on cars that are regularly topped with a drying aid. It can be applied to dry or damp surfaces, on paint, glass, un-painted plastic, rubber trim and wheels. Versatility is a big selling point then. I especially like the appearance Reload imparts on unpainted black plastic trims, subtle and rich.

Application of Reload 2.0 is simple; using two towels, prime the first towel with product and then apply a small amount directly to the paint, working section by section. Wipe with the damp towel, wait 30 seconds and then buff with the dry second towel. (I will note that I gave the car a wipe down with Eraser beforehand.)



From what I observed applying Reload 2.0 to my white Ranger, the newer version seemed to lack the somewhat streaky nature of the original and required far less buffing to perfect. The "glassy" gloss and slickness are Reloads hallmarks, as is the strong, although not unpleasant, chemical aroma.

Although this is not a final verdict on Reload 2.0, I still need to try it on a less forgiving colour, but I think the new version is sufficiently improved to warrant a second look. With two ceramic coated vehicles in circulation now, for me it's use will be greater than in the past couple of years.

After prioritising some seat time in the Mustang yesterday, clearing out a few cobwebs and burning plenty of 98-ron in the process, I wanted to wash the car before putting it back to sleep. P&S Absolute and Bead Maker to rescue. Even if you don't do rinse-less washing, just get some! The coconut-lime scent is so alluring, making it a great interior detailer, quick detailer or clay lubricant.
 
Thanks! I think? :laughing:
 
Are those the factory wheels made wider or are they after market?

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There were aftermarket from AFS Wheels. You could buy them in color option that matched the factory wheels or black inserts like these.
 
Considering I am now my own small engine mechanic, I decided to look the part.........................

 
Looking back over photos of my first car...............









How I would love to go back in time with the knowledge and skill I have today to do a paint correction on that car, the swirls in the paint were something I never noticed as a kid.

The AU Falcon debuted in mid 1998 and was immediately and strongly despised for its controversial styling. The Australian designers were being told to use the New Edge styling direction from Detroit head office, confused by the marketing team who also told them that buyers wanted a smaller looking car. The result was a strange mixture of curves, angles and ovoid styling cues. This is a classic case of a committee dictating the direction of a car compared to common sense.

A rushed update was introduced in early 2000 with the AU Series 2, which featured a range of styling changes to try and disguise some of the curves. Deeper bumpers, straighter trunk trims, restyled grills and larger wheels were merely rearranging the dust, it still looked ugly to most There were also mechanical changes that addressed a few key items, including vastly better brakes and more sound deadening. In November 2001, another update was released to bridge the gap to the completely restyled BA Falcon that was a year away. The AU Series 3 featured another round of styling alterations, new wheels, colors and increased equipment across the range.

The sad part of the whole AU era of Falcon's was that the car itself, at least in AU II and AU III form, was actually very good. Ok, some models still had a live rear axle, which to be honest was pretty lame, but even then, those cars drove way better than the specs suggested. The big bonus the AU Falcon had over the equivalent Holden was the modern double-wishbone front suspension and far superior steering, which was so tactile and alive in your hands. Combined with the live axle, the front axle would outperform the rear. Upper spec models were fitted with the double wishbone IRS, the same design used on the Lincoln LS and Jaguar S-Type, these cars would end up being the best driving Falcon's ever! Also, the AU II and AU III Falcon's are widely regarded the best Falcon's in terms of durability, reliability and build quality.

My example was an AU III Fairmont in Barossa Red, one of the first made in November 2001. It's so early that mine was wrongly fitted with the AU II Fairmont cloth trim. The engine was the standard Falcon engine, a SOHC 4.0 Inline 6 with 157 kW / 210 hp and 357 Nm / 263 ft-lb and fitted to a 4-speed automatic. Even though a Fairmont was the "luxury" model, it came with the watts-link live axle, you had to go to the Fairmont Ghia for IRS. The car was bought second hand from the local Ford dealer with 54,000 km / 33,000 miles on the clock. From what I can tell, it was used heavily for towing, the scraped rear mudflaps and heavy-duty tow bar the evidence.

As an 18-year-old male who had just got his driver's license (a driver's license is only granted to those over 18 in Australia), having an "old man burgundy" luxury sedan was actually a smart choice as the car went largely unnoticed by the cops. Allegedly, this car with its simple rear suspension and masses of low-down torque could light up the rear tires like a champion! Allegedly. This car also started my love affair with red cars!

As I said earlier, most people hated the AU Falcon due to its styling. But I was one of the special few who actually liked it. I loved the crisp belt line that ran from head lamp to tail lamp. I also loved the sharp curvature of the rear trunk lid and how it intersected with the tail lamps..............this was New Edge in full swing. I have said this before, but when Mercedes refined the concept a few years later in the form of the original CLS, the drooping/pinched styling was better accepted. The only element of the styling I disliked was the oviod front and rear windshields and the domed roof, both of what were addressed on the CLS.



I gradually added a few things over my ownership of the car to de-grandpa it a little, while maintaining an OE look. The Momo steering wheel and gear selector were items I fitted, as well as the Fairmont Ghia woodgrain and chrome gear selector surround. THE best steering wheel ever fitted to a Falcon.............



The spoiler I added, sourced at trade price through my uncle in spare parts. The wheels I got brand new from a factory surplus outlet, fitted with Falken tyres and Tickford center caps.

The chrome exhaust tip I had installed was a XR6 VCT/Fairlane item, which was actually available as a separate item from spare parts, which my Uncle tracked down for me. I always loved the combination of the size and the angle of the back slash on those tips, fitting my desire for an OEM look. Did it make any additional noise or performance, of course not, but that was the point! It had a subtle, smooth OEM note to it, not the hideously loud, droning exhausts most teenagers put on the six-cylinder Falcon's and Commodores.





With trade discount, that exhaust tip cost me $120 in 2006, plus fitting! A ridiculous spend for me at the time, I could have easily fitted a tacky aftermarket tip from an auto chain store for half the price. But it was exactly what I wanted, nothing else would do.

And thinking about that mentality, it's something I have always done. I want what I want and I just make it happen. Be that lawn mowers, cars, shoes, detailing tools, wheels for my Mustang........................................... ..
 
Nice colour, good choice on the wheels too. I definitely was not a fan of the AU, but like you said, the looks got better with each series.

I also remember comparing what the insurance would cost me when I was looking at Commodore V8s around 2010, the SS was going to be over 3k a year, the Calais V8 was under 1k, and it was just as fast.

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Wash day! :awesome:

This will be the first wash of the Wildtrak since it was coated with Gyeon Can Coat.

The remains of Carpro Darkside are still present but hardly noticeable.



I wanted to try something a little different today. Normally, I would use a dedicated rubber cleaner or P&S Brake Buster for tyre cleaning. Today, I wanted to try out Koch Chemie Green Star. This product is an All-purpose cleaner that, like dedicated rubber cleaners, is highly alkaline. In this case, I had it mixed at 8:1 and applied it liberally to the tyre, wheel arch and scrub brush.



Let me start by saying that Green Star did a good job in stripping back these tyres. Good but not great. Something like Wise Guy or Undressed will outperform it, even at this heavier strength dilution.

In a technical sense, depending on the dilution ratio, an all-purpose cleaner can perform multiple roles in car detailing; interior plastics, carpet, upholstery, leather, engine bay cleaning, degreasing and in this case, tyres too. But................. this is one of those situations where an APC is a jack of all trades, master of none.

Explaining that further, there are reasons why specific products exist. Yes, it does help manufacturers sell more product, but there are genuine benefits to specific products designed for specific roles. The best example I can give is using APC to clean leather. Will it easily clean leather, yes it will. But the side effects of a high pH cleaner on leather are not desirable over the longer term. This is why specific pH neutral leather cleaners exists. The same can be said using APC on interior plastics, and again why something like P&S Express exists.

On to the wheel cleaning, I decided to do a deeper clean on these wheels with Koch Chemie Magic Wheel Cleaner.



MWC is an iron-removing wheel cleaner with a slightly acidic 5.5 pH reading. I never like using these sort of wheel cleaners due to harsh smell, but you can't deny their effectiveness.

This was also my first try of the new TRC Ultra Wheel Mitt -







I have chased this sort of wheel cleaning mitt for a long time, finding some great and some not-so-great examples in the process. This one is based on TRC's Cyclone microfiber blend, meaning an ultra soft feel. I like these sort of wash mitts for cleaning wheels for the ergonomic way it allows you to clean between and behind the spoke. This example is very nicely sized and very effective. A WINNER! :xyxthumbs:

Believe it or not, this is the first time I have washed a ceramic coated vehicle! Ooooohh, now I get it!!



First of all, the water behavior is next level. And after sitting under a tree depositing sap on it for two weeks, the ease of cleaning was astounding. In this case, I pre-soaked the car from dry with Reset, rinsed, re-foamed with Reset and washed with a Cyclone wash mitt. Then, using the EGO to remove the water was exceptionally easy.



Having a car that is coated is all about the maintenance, using an appropriate drying aid to maintain the coating is important for longevity, and even exceeding the quoted durability time. I have cabinet full of suitable products for this role, in this case I landed on OG Drying Aid.



Onto the door jambs, I used another new product in the form of P&S Epic Waterless wash. I typically use ONR for this role, but I was somewhat draw to this product after "absolutely" loving their new rinse-less product.



Epic has a minty aroma and performs very well in this application, where the jambs just needed drying and removal of some light dust.

Continuing the green theme, I used Wowo's Interior Finisher to refresh the plastic surfaces. ONR was used to wipe down the leather, and Wowo's Glass Cleaner for the glass. The interior then got a generous spritz of Angelwax Bliss.



Lastly, I dressed the tyres with another new product, Gtechniq T2.





T2 is said to be "body shop safe", meaning it will be silicone free. The finish is very much a low sheen appearance and application is smooth. I quite like the subtle, deep look that it left behind.

Washing the Wildtrak today, I couldn't help but notice how easily it cleaned up. Clearly the hard work put into it a month ago paid off and this really supports my detailing mantra of "maintaining a state of cleanliness".
 
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