DFB's Garage
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DFB
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- Aug 12, 2019
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The new machine is now earning its keep.....................
Apart from a quick run over my front lawns, this was the first mow. In this case, I didn't catch, hence the grass sitting on the deck.
The engine turns over much easier than either the Honda GXV 160, and especially the Krohler. That's one of the things that has always annoyed me about the Krohler, its unusually hard to pull over, like there's no compression release.
I really need to tweak the governor now. The engine is superbly torquey out of the box, but it just feels stilted. I haven't put the tacho on it yet, but its sounding like around 2800 rpm, which is just too low. Upping that to around 3600 - 3800 rpm is completely safe, makes for superior cutting and speeds up the self-propel too. I've heard you are supposed to let the engine run in first, but I've also read you can just do it out of the box. I might split the difference and get it up above 3000 rpm to get it in the ballpark and go from there.
Tweaking the governor is not as easy as the earlier versions of this engine with the metal carb. Briggs have hidden the adjustment tab behind the air filter housing, but its easy when you know where to look.
Apart from a quick run over my front lawns, this was the first mow. In this case, I didn't catch, hence the grass sitting on the deck.
The engine turns over much easier than either the Honda GXV 160, and especially the Krohler. That's one of the things that has always annoyed me about the Krohler, its unusually hard to pull over, like there's no compression release.
I really need to tweak the governor now. The engine is superbly torquey out of the box, but it just feels stilted. I haven't put the tacho on it yet, but its sounding like around 2800 rpm, which is just too low. Upping that to around 3600 - 3800 rpm is completely safe, makes for superior cutting and speeds up the self-propel too. I've heard you are supposed to let the engine run in first, but I've also read you can just do it out of the box. I might split the difference and get it up above 3000 rpm to get it in the ballpark and go from there.
Tweaking the governor is not as easy as the earlier versions of this engine with the metal carb. Briggs have hidden the adjustment tab behind the air filter housing, but its easy when you know where to look.
DFB
Well-known member
- Aug 12, 2019
- 4,890
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Cashing in a couple of gift vouchers for a Milwaukee M18 Surge Impact Driver..............a belated Christmas present.
With most of the Milwaukee M18 impact range being out of stock for over a month now, I had to place an order for it two weeks ago. This particular model has a hydraulic powertrain to reduce metal on metal contact, which allows for quieter and smoother operation. It also allows four speed and torque settings. In both cases, I'm told these elements deliver a smoother and more finessed action, rather than smashing the guts out of whatever you are working on.
I have also added some additional garage lighting above the sink. There is nothing special about these, other than they are ultra slim and easily expanded.
Rigid LED Strip Lights - Altronics
Genlamp Natural White Linkable LED Strip Light 300mm - Altronics
I mounted the lights to wall using adhesive velco, so no mess or holes to drill. Each light comes with a male/male daisy chain cord, which I only used to bridge from the cabinet to the wall. The three wall mounted units are joined using a male/male joiner piece. You then connect a 12V power adapter. They also offer a dimming switch and motion sensor if so desired.
Genlamp LED Strip Joiner For X3271 - Altronics
https://www.altronics.com.au/p/m8936d-powertran-12v-dc-2a-fixed-2.1mm-tip-appliance-plugpack/
Despite how the images present, the light output is actually quite good, helping make this somewhat dark spot in the garage so much better.
With most of the Milwaukee M18 impact range being out of stock for over a month now, I had to place an order for it two weeks ago. This particular model has a hydraulic powertrain to reduce metal on metal contact, which allows for quieter and smoother operation. It also allows four speed and torque settings. In both cases, I'm told these elements deliver a smoother and more finessed action, rather than smashing the guts out of whatever you are working on.
I have also added some additional garage lighting above the sink. There is nothing special about these, other than they are ultra slim and easily expanded.
Rigid LED Strip Lights - Altronics
Genlamp Natural White Linkable LED Strip Light 300mm - Altronics
I mounted the lights to wall using adhesive velco, so no mess or holes to drill. Each light comes with a male/male daisy chain cord, which I only used to bridge from the cabinet to the wall. The three wall mounted units are joined using a male/male joiner piece. You then connect a 12V power adapter. They also offer a dimming switch and motion sensor if so desired.
Genlamp LED Strip Joiner For X3271 - Altronics
https://www.altronics.com.au/p/m8936d-powertran-12v-dc-2a-fixed-2.1mm-tip-appliance-plugpack/
Despite how the images present, the light output is actually quite good, helping make this somewhat dark spot in the garage so much better.
DFB
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- Aug 12, 2019
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This mower got put to the ultimate test today, dealing with two weeks of summer Kikuyu growth. I wasn't sure how the new unit would travel, so I took the old Rover with me as well.
After starting the run with the Victa C21, I then switched to the Rover at the next stop which is notoriously thick and tall after two weeks. Annoyingly, the Rover was not driving properly, I got through the job but it will warrant investigation. That sort of meant the C21 was thrown into the deep end!
It's at this point I decided it was all or nothing! The shipped governor position yielded about 2800 - 2900 rpm................
Two small adjustments to the spring tab had it running above the 3600 sweet spot. I will have a separate post on how to do this later on.
Now, before this adjustment, the engine would grunt through thicker stuff, but it wasn't powering through, and the walking speed was a touch too slow for my liking. After the adjustment, now we are in the ballpark!
The engine is now powering through thicker grass, which improves catching ability, which in turn clears grass from the deck and prevents the engine bogging down. The walking speed is now much better, not running speed but a decent brisk walk.
Now, just because I have the full throttle revs set at 3600 rpm, that doesn't mean I need to run the machine at that all the time. But the good thing is, I now have options. On lighter growth, run it at half throttle. On thicker grass, go full throttle and get on with it!
What I love about the Briggs 850 engine is that while it has the power, about 6.0 - 6.5 hp, the larger 190cc capacity means it has torque too. That means it doesn't bog down under load in the same way the smaller 163cc Honda and 173cc Krohler do. Both of those engines can make power and spin hard, but they just don't have the same grunt to get through thicker stuff. The 850's slight mark against it is the fuel consumption, but I would rather deal with that over an engine that doesn't cut the mustard............or grass as it were.
That doesn't mean I hate the Honda, I'm a big fan of the GXV 160, its built like a tank, is ultra smooth and is fuel efficient. It's easy to work on too and feels like a high-quality product............... yes, there is some jank to the Briggs.
The Krohler? I've pounded that thing for years now and it's been extremely reliable................but I've always hated it! As mentioned earlier, its always been hard to pull over, often needed a second pull to fire. The thing has used oil from the beginning, never in a smokey way, but it just seems to consume it. The muffler is too small and makes it very noisy at full tilt. The dipstick is hard to read and made from nasty plastic. Overall, it just looks and feels cheaply made. But to be brutally honest, I'm surprised its lasted this long.
Anyway, here is a shot of the Victa Commercial 21 tackling one of my most challenging lawns. And the half chute? No blockages! :dance
It's very early days, but I'm very pleased with how things have started out with this mower.
After starting the run with the Victa C21, I then switched to the Rover at the next stop which is notoriously thick and tall after two weeks. Annoyingly, the Rover was not driving properly, I got through the job but it will warrant investigation. That sort of meant the C21 was thrown into the deep end!
It's at this point I decided it was all or nothing! The shipped governor position yielded about 2800 - 2900 rpm................
Two small adjustments to the spring tab had it running above the 3600 sweet spot. I will have a separate post on how to do this later on.
Now, before this adjustment, the engine would grunt through thicker stuff, but it wasn't powering through, and the walking speed was a touch too slow for my liking. After the adjustment, now we are in the ballpark!
The engine is now powering through thicker grass, which improves catching ability, which in turn clears grass from the deck and prevents the engine bogging down. The walking speed is now much better, not running speed but a decent brisk walk.
Now, just because I have the full throttle revs set at 3600 rpm, that doesn't mean I need to run the machine at that all the time. But the good thing is, I now have options. On lighter growth, run it at half throttle. On thicker grass, go full throttle and get on with it!
What I love about the Briggs 850 engine is that while it has the power, about 6.0 - 6.5 hp, the larger 190cc capacity means it has torque too. That means it doesn't bog down under load in the same way the smaller 163cc Honda and 173cc Krohler do. Both of those engines can make power and spin hard, but they just don't have the same grunt to get through thicker stuff. The 850's slight mark against it is the fuel consumption, but I would rather deal with that over an engine that doesn't cut the mustard............or grass as it were.
That doesn't mean I hate the Honda, I'm a big fan of the GXV 160, its built like a tank, is ultra smooth and is fuel efficient. It's easy to work on too and feels like a high-quality product............... yes, there is some jank to the Briggs.
The Krohler? I've pounded that thing for years now and it's been extremely reliable................but I've always hated it! As mentioned earlier, its always been hard to pull over, often needed a second pull to fire. The thing has used oil from the beginning, never in a smokey way, but it just seems to consume it. The muffler is too small and makes it very noisy at full tilt. The dipstick is hard to read and made from nasty plastic. Overall, it just looks and feels cheaply made. But to be brutally honest, I'm surprised its lasted this long.
Anyway, here is a shot of the Victa Commercial 21 tackling one of my most challenging lawns. And the half chute? No blockages! :dance
It's very early days, but I'm very pleased with how things have started out with this mower.
DFB
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Another week, another attempt at finding Rover spare parts! :conf
This time, I was chasing a set of the rear wheels, which have inner grooves to mesh with the drive gears.
There are two versions of this wheel -
- 8-inch as used on ProCut 50 (634-04751 or A10624)
Rover 8" Self-Propelled Wheel 634-04751
– Power Mowers
- 9-inch as used on ProCut 560 (634-05015 or A10669)
ROVER 22" 560 MOWER REAR DRIVE WHEEL A10669
– Power Mowers
I needed the 9-inch version, which I again scoured the internet with no luck. I then reached out to the company who sold me the NLA dust shields and drive gears, they were listing the smaller version, but perhaps they could help me again. As luck would have it, they had them in stock, but the website link was inactive on their end.
I have since ordered four A10669, along with some new front wheels, A10622.
Actually, I was a bit confused what front wheels I needed. Measuring the old ones, it came in at 7.5-inch, which Rover sell under A10621. But the part number on wheels was indeed A10622. I guess I have lost 0.5-inch of tread in the 10 years I've had this unit.
7.5-inch as used on ProCut 50 (A10621)
Rover 7-1/2" Wheel A10621
– Power Mowers
8-inch as used on ProCut 560 (A10622)
Rover 8" Wheel 634-05032
– Power Mowers
Completely bald! And those are plastic "treads", not rubber. Should look like this...................
While its somewhat frustrating trying to find parts for this relic, I'm also finding it rewarding. Hunting through part diagrams, then the thrill of the chase finding parts for sale!
This time, I was chasing a set of the rear wheels, which have inner grooves to mesh with the drive gears.
There are two versions of this wheel -
- 8-inch as used on ProCut 50 (634-04751 or A10624)
Rover 8" Self-Propelled Wheel 634-04751
– Power Mowers
- 9-inch as used on ProCut 560 (634-05015 or A10669)
ROVER 22" 560 MOWER REAR DRIVE WHEEL A10669
– Power Mowers
I needed the 9-inch version, which I again scoured the internet with no luck. I then reached out to the company who sold me the NLA dust shields and drive gears, they were listing the smaller version, but perhaps they could help me again. As luck would have it, they had them in stock, but the website link was inactive on their end.
I have since ordered four A10669, along with some new front wheels, A10622.
Actually, I was a bit confused what front wheels I needed. Measuring the old ones, it came in at 7.5-inch, which Rover sell under A10621. But the part number on wheels was indeed A10622. I guess I have lost 0.5-inch of tread in the 10 years I've had this unit.
7.5-inch as used on ProCut 50 (A10621)
Rover 7-1/2" Wheel A10621
– Power Mowers
8-inch as used on ProCut 560 (A10622)
Rover 8" Wheel 634-05032
– Power Mowers
Completely bald! And those are plastic "treads", not rubber. Should look like this...................
While its somewhat frustrating trying to find parts for this relic, I'm also finding it rewarding. Hunting through part diagrams, then the thrill of the chase finding parts for sale!
DFB
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- Aug 12, 2019
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Michelin Agilis 3 Update
Today was my first experience driving in the wet with these tyres. Where previously I had to be careful not to bring the engine up to boost in first, second, and sometimes third gear, otherwise the rear would be lit up like a Christmas tree. Now, I have traction, even with some provocation! Sadly, I had no wet roundabouts to test lateral traction on the way to work this morning.
In the dry, the Agilis 3 has a softer overall feel, something which is exaggerated by the aged and brittle Dunlop's that went before it. I suspect these Michelin's have a much softer sidewall, which does promote more movement as they flex under lateral load. The Dunlop's I could throw at corners with confidence, but the Michelins move around a bit more, which something I'm getting used to. But they are most certainly providing a softer ride. It's still firm, however there is a layer of cushiness that wasn't there before.
Some of that might sound on the negative side, but that is more me providing feedback on what I'm noticing. At this stage, I would still buy these tyres again, the benefits here are outweighing the slight drawbacks. As much as anything, I didn't realize how bad the previous tyres were in the end.
Today was my first experience driving in the wet with these tyres. Where previously I had to be careful not to bring the engine up to boost in first, second, and sometimes third gear, otherwise the rear would be lit up like a Christmas tree. Now, I have traction, even with some provocation! Sadly, I had no wet roundabouts to test lateral traction on the way to work this morning.
In the dry, the Agilis 3 has a softer overall feel, something which is exaggerated by the aged and brittle Dunlop's that went before it. I suspect these Michelin's have a much softer sidewall, which does promote more movement as they flex under lateral load. The Dunlop's I could throw at corners with confidence, but the Michelins move around a bit more, which something I'm getting used to. But they are most certainly providing a softer ride. It's still firm, however there is a layer of cushiness that wasn't there before.
Some of that might sound on the negative side, but that is more me providing feedback on what I'm noticing. At this stage, I would still buy these tyres again, the benefits here are outweighing the slight drawbacks. As much as anything, I didn't realize how bad the previous tyres were in the end.
Big Dave
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- Jan 7, 2018
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Wet roundabouts are the big test, the previous Yokohama G015s I had on were LT spec, they are the ones that are still on the original alloys. They were hilarious on wet roundabouts, I would get understeer going in, even at slow speeds, then the fronts would grip and I'd transition into oversteer trying to come out, it has ESC but I'd usually catch it before the system could detect it. The new G015s are not LT, I say new but they're 4 years old now, and they still understeer a little bit, but I don't get as much oversteer, it also helps that I fitted Outback Armour adjustable shocks at the rear, softer rear ends produce more grip, or so Jim Richards says.
Sent from my motorola edge 20 fusion using Tapatalk
Sent from my motorola edge 20 fusion using Tapatalk
DFB
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My PK Ranger I had before my current Ranger was lethal in the wet.
Those PK Ranger's were ancient by the time I bought mine brand new in 2010. The only concession to safety was dual airbags, traction and stability control (and ABS by association) were unheard of on tradie vehicles back then. Combine that with the lightweight alloy tray and tiny 15-inch wheels with 215/70/R15 tyres meant that grip and traction were nonexistent in the wet. With 330 Nm at 1800 rpm, the thing could light them up in 3rd gear exiting a roundabout. Now, at times that could be fun, but only when you knew what you were doing. But get caught out, there was no safety net to chime in and save the day.
DanaDetailingPros
Active member
- Aug 7, 2022
- 1,335
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Cashing in a couple of gift vouchers for a Milwaukee M18 Surge Impact Driver..............a belated Christmas present.
With most of the Milwaukee M18 impact range being out of stock for over a month now, I had to place an order for it two weeks ago. This particular model has a hydraulic powertrain to reduce metal on metal contact, which allows for quieter and smoother operation. It also allows four speed and torque settings. In both cases, I'm told these elements deliver a smoother and more finessed action, rather than smashing the guts out of whatever you are working on.
I have also added some additional garage lighting above the sink. There is nothing special about these, other than they are ultra slim and easily expanded.
Rigid LED Strip Lights - Altronics
Genlamp Natural White Linkable LED Strip Light 300mm - Altronics
I mounted the lights to wall using adhesive velco, so no mess or holes to drill. Each light comes with a male/male daisy chain cord, which I only used to bridge from the cabinet to the wall. The three wall mounted units are joined using a male/male joiner piece. You then connect a 12V power adapter. They also offer a dimming switch and motion sensor if so desired.
Genlamp LED Strip Joiner For X3271 - Altronics
https://www.altronics.com.au/p/m8936d-powertran-12v-dc-2a-fixed-2.1mm-tip-appliance-plugpack/
Despite how the images present, the light output is actually quite good, helping make this somewhat dark spot in the garage so much better.
Is it of for lug nuts?
DFB
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- Aug 12, 2019
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No, that particular model is for driving screws and fasteners, mainly bought for household repairs ect.
I do have an impact gun for lugs, but I don't like using a gun on lugs, so I mostly use it for mower repairs.
Probably don't let your blades run that long.....................
DFB
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Another shipment of spare parts. Just on $180 spent online and not a small local business. I don't hold grudges.........much................
The orange air filter is for my new Briggs 850, which is different from earlier versions of that engine. The long filter for the Honda GXV 160. The black foam filters are of the oil soak type and are for my Honda GX 25. The spark plugs are for "stock" and suit a variety of machines from Briggs, Honda, Stihl, Husqvarna, Krohler and Victa.
The orange air filter is for my new Briggs 850, which is different from earlier versions of that engine. The long filter for the Honda GXV 160. The black foam filters are of the oil soak type and are for my Honda GX 25. The spark plugs are for "stock" and suit a variety of machines from Briggs, Honda, Stihl, Husqvarna, Krohler and Victa.
DFB
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- Aug 12, 2019
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Trying out some new brushes on today's detail.
The first being the relatively new Detail Factory Progrip Fender Well Brush. This particular brush is well suited to cleaning wheel arches of larger vehicles like this, the longer reach meaning you could even use it standing up for both wheels and wheel arches. The flag tip bristles are firm enough to get some work done, soft enough to be safe.
Also great on side steps..................
The second brush is the short version of the above, mainly aimed at wheel cleaning. Like the fender brush, this version is available in both red or grey, and again has flag tipped bristles. I found this brush slightly off balance due to the huge head and stubby handle. But it certainly dealt with these wheels just fine.
Like other Detail Factory brushes, you are paying for quality with these two. The entire handle has soft rubberized coating, which might sound pointless, but it really does make the user experience more pleasant. I've also found Detail Factory to be supremely durable, the tyre brush I've had for a while now still looks brand new after extensive use.
As for the vehicle in question, the tyres were scrubbed using P&S Undressed, a product I have been using the most for tyres recently. The wheels were cleaned using foamed Brake Buster. I then topped off the wheels with Gyeon Wet Coat.
The vehicle had accumulated plenty of bugs over the last month, so it was pretreated with Carpro Bug Out, then Gtechniq W4 Citrus Foam applied over the top and left to dwell. Rinsed, I then washed with Opti-Coat M-Wash. Drying aid the delightful Adam's Slick & Slide. Rounding off the exterior, I applied Gtechniq T2 to the tyres and wiped the wheels over with Clean Maker.
For the interior, I used Nexzett Cockpit Premium to wipe everything down, leather included. P&S True Vue for the glass, and Swift on the rubber floor mats. The steering wheel needed a deep clean with ColourLock Strong Leather Cleaner, followed by ColourLock Leather Protector. The cabin finished off with a few sprays of Griot's Fine Leather scent.
The first being the relatively new Detail Factory Progrip Fender Well Brush. This particular brush is well suited to cleaning wheel arches of larger vehicles like this, the longer reach meaning you could even use it standing up for both wheels and wheel arches. The flag tip bristles are firm enough to get some work done, soft enough to be safe.
Also great on side steps..................
The second brush is the short version of the above, mainly aimed at wheel cleaning. Like the fender brush, this version is available in both red or grey, and again has flag tipped bristles. I found this brush slightly off balance due to the huge head and stubby handle. But it certainly dealt with these wheels just fine.
Like other Detail Factory brushes, you are paying for quality with these two. The entire handle has soft rubberized coating, which might sound pointless, but it really does make the user experience more pleasant. I've also found Detail Factory to be supremely durable, the tyre brush I've had for a while now still looks brand new after extensive use.
As for the vehicle in question, the tyres were scrubbed using P&S Undressed, a product I have been using the most for tyres recently. The wheels were cleaned using foamed Brake Buster. I then topped off the wheels with Gyeon Wet Coat.
The vehicle had accumulated plenty of bugs over the last month, so it was pretreated with Carpro Bug Out, then Gtechniq W4 Citrus Foam applied over the top and left to dwell. Rinsed, I then washed with Opti-Coat M-Wash. Drying aid the delightful Adam's Slick & Slide. Rounding off the exterior, I applied Gtechniq T2 to the tyres and wiped the wheels over with Clean Maker.
For the interior, I used Nexzett Cockpit Premium to wipe everything down, leather included. P&S True Vue for the glass, and Swift on the rubber floor mats. The steering wheel needed a deep clean with ColourLock Strong Leather Cleaner, followed by ColourLock Leather Protector. The cabin finished off with a few sprays of Griot's Fine Leather scent.
DanaDetailingPros
Active member
- Aug 7, 2022
- 1,335
- 2
Just ordered bpth since my wheel brush is getting a little beat up and my cleaning fender brush is crap. Funny thing was Amazon was the cheaper option ofcourse with the free freight but backed up till middle of March. No worries.. But thanks for showing off the best of the best as always DFB
Been waitint to see you on the new forum by the way!
Been waitint to see you on the new forum by the way!
Another shipment of spare parts. Just on $180 spent online and not a small local business. I don't hold grudges.........much................
The orange air filter is for my new Briggs 850, which is different from earlier versions of that engine. The long filter for the Honda GXV 160. The black foam filters are of the oil soak type and are for my Honda GX 25. The spark plugs are for "stock" and suit a variety of machines from Briggs, Honda, Stihl, Husqvarna, Krohler and Victa.
I like to shop local, but about half the time, I need to get stuff online. The selection just isn't there.
DFB
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- Aug 12, 2019
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I'm conflicted here regarding "shop local".
I work for a small family retail business, every sale counts and we rely on locals shopping with us over the big multi-national hardware store. What separates us is the personalized service we offer, something you just can't get in a faceless hardware store. If we don't do that, then why would someone shop with us and pay the premium to do so. And that's why I'm supposed to be all for "shop local".
When it comes to me shopping in bricks and mortar stores, maybe I expect too much considering the lengths I go to in keeping a customer feeling valued. Because whenever I actually step into a store now, that is quite often not how I am treated. I once went out of my way to spend my money in this town, but buying local is a rare occurrence for me now. Covid changed my shopping habits massively, and I never really went back. But then when you step into a business that should have your back, then shafts you not once, but twice, then my money goes elsewhere. That last mower I bought, a $1800 purchase no less, was bought online instead of this local business. Along with that, plus another mower I bought and various bundles of spare parts, I would have once bought all this from the local business, and therefore my money left town.
You see, if the whole shop local thing is to be appreciated, the business in question has to remember who pays their wages. They also have to sell what I want, not tell me what I should be buying. And the same applies to the detailing products I buy. Unless I want to buy Turtle Wax or overpriced Meguiar's products, then I have no choice to go online.
That all might sound like I'm an entitled grump, and I've served many entitled customers in my time, but at the end of the day, if I don't give the customer what they want and go out of my way to make them happy, then I don't have a job.
DFB
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The Jaguar and Ranger's turn today, with the Jag in line for a couple of extra's,
First up, replacement wiper blades. Now, if the dealer had offered to replace these for sane money, then I would have gladly let them do the job, would have saved me chasing down the correct parts. But asking over $240 to replace a $63 set of rubber wiper blades is simply ridiculous.
Bosch A532S Aerotwin Windscreen Wiper Blade Set 700mm / 430mm | Automotive Superstore | Shop Online
Replacing the wiper blades on the XE can be done with or without them in the service position, but its much easier with them raised. To do this, you need to follow the exact proceedure to get them to raise and stay in place mid screen.
1. Sitting in the car, press the start button without pressure on the brake pedal to power up the accessories. Then, press again to power down, the screens and blower fan should be off.
2. Hold the wiper stalk down, then press the start button, again without brake pedal pressure. The wipers will then raise and hold in the vertical position.
3. Leave the power on, screens still active. DO NOT remove the key fob from the car, you risk prompting the car to lower the wiper arms and potentially smash a very expensive windscreen.
4. To return to the resting position, simply press the wiper stalk.
Service Position Method -
Resting Position Method -
The old wipers had started to tear and were the originals from 2015, even brand new they weren't very good. I probably should have junked them a long time ago, but the car rarely drives in the rain.
Before washing the car, I also gave the engine bay a quick rinse off, followed by a generous application of Meguiar's Hyper Dressing diluted at 4:1 for a "natural" finish. I then used the EGO to distribute the Hyper Dressing and remove any excess water. After attending to the rest of the car, I doubled back with a towel to mop up any lingering water or product puddles.
The colour tone of the Light Oyster leather trim is naturally prone to showing even the slightest hint of dye transfer, so it was out with the Mild Leather Cleaner from ColourLock, teamed with the ColourLock brush. The combination of that cleaner and THAT brush means you only need to gently agitate the leather, followed by wiping the residue with a towel.
I then followed up with ColourLock Leather Protector, which is designed for leather older than three years. Applied with a foam block, the initial impression is that it makes the surface shiny. However, once it dries, the finish left behind is a natural matte appearance that is soft and non-greasy to touch.
And with that, the fleet is now fully clean. :dblthumb2:
First up, replacement wiper blades. Now, if the dealer had offered to replace these for sane money, then I would have gladly let them do the job, would have saved me chasing down the correct parts. But asking over $240 to replace a $63 set of rubber wiper blades is simply ridiculous.
Bosch A532S Aerotwin Windscreen Wiper Blade Set 700mm / 430mm | Automotive Superstore | Shop Online
Replacing the wiper blades on the XE can be done with or without them in the service position, but its much easier with them raised. To do this, you need to follow the exact proceedure to get them to raise and stay in place mid screen.
1. Sitting in the car, press the start button without pressure on the brake pedal to power up the accessories. Then, press again to power down, the screens and blower fan should be off.
2. Hold the wiper stalk down, then press the start button, again without brake pedal pressure. The wipers will then raise and hold in the vertical position.
3. Leave the power on, screens still active. DO NOT remove the key fob from the car, you risk prompting the car to lower the wiper arms and potentially smash a very expensive windscreen.
4. To return to the resting position, simply press the wiper stalk.
Service Position Method -
Resting Position Method -
The old wipers had started to tear and were the originals from 2015, even brand new they weren't very good. I probably should have junked them a long time ago, but the car rarely drives in the rain.
Before washing the car, I also gave the engine bay a quick rinse off, followed by a generous application of Meguiar's Hyper Dressing diluted at 4:1 for a "natural" finish. I then used the EGO to distribute the Hyper Dressing and remove any excess water. After attending to the rest of the car, I doubled back with a towel to mop up any lingering water or product puddles.
The colour tone of the Light Oyster leather trim is naturally prone to showing even the slightest hint of dye transfer, so it was out with the Mild Leather Cleaner from ColourLock, teamed with the ColourLock brush. The combination of that cleaner and THAT brush means you only need to gently agitate the leather, followed by wiping the residue with a towel.
I then followed up with ColourLock Leather Protector, which is designed for leather older than three years. Applied with a foam block, the initial impression is that it makes the surface shiny. However, once it dries, the finish left behind is a natural matte appearance that is soft and non-greasy to touch.
And with that, the fleet is now fully clean. :dblthumb2:
Big Dave
Well-known member
- Jan 7, 2018
- 3,871
- 2,321
I read this recently, after following a rabbit trail on YT, all sorts of videos on bad customer service and entitled Karens ( or grumps, if you like). There was lots of "the customer is always right" stuff being thrown around, but the best thing I saw was this:
"The customer is not always right, but they are always the customer".
I've worked for a large multinational, and now a small family owned and run business, of the two I can honestly say the large multinational was the better place to work, nowhere near perfect, but definitely safer, more interested in getting the job done right, more trusting of people to get the job done, and more backup if you need it. Too much ego involved when the guy who owns the business is on site every day, why employ people with experience if you're not going to take advantage of it.
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"The customer is not always right, but they are always the customer".
I've worked for a large multinational, and now a small family owned and run business, of the two I can honestly say the large multinational was the better place to work, nowhere near perfect, but definitely safer, more interested in getting the job done right, more trusting of people to get the job done, and more backup if you need it. Too much ego involved when the guy who owns the business is on site every day, why employ people with experience if you're not going to take advantage of it.
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DFB
Well-known member
- Aug 12, 2019
- 4,890
- 2,960
- Thread starter
- #1,320
OMG, it's like you can read my mind!
Starting with the "customer is always right" thing, I've always hated that tag line because it implies the customer has the right to be rude, offensive and demanding. In that situation, then the customer reaps what they sow, I don't tolerate that sh.t. "The customer is not always right, but they are always the customer" .................it's my job to show them the "right" way without demeaning or discrediting there thoughts.
As for family business's, I've spent the last 20 years working for one. The bolded parts of your post are spot on.
While there is no business without the owner, there is no business without external staff. I often feel like a liability to them, that all I am doing is costing them money. And yet, when I make that killer $2000 sale (rare), its expected rather not appreciated and acknowledged. Last year, I took on a lot of mini projects that were geared around making things look fresher and neater, only for it to be thrown in my face. I think I showed too much initiative and talent at what I was doing and they felt threatened. And yet, if a wasted time, took long breaks, ignored customers, then I would be labeled lazy or lacking imitative. Sometimes, there is NO winning with a family business.
At the end of the day, I'm bored out of my brains, but it pays the bills,