DFB's Garage

Got an email today welcoming me to the Ford Performance Club. I'm not sure if this played out the same for others, but I actually had to chase this up with the dealer just before Christmas as I hadn't been contacted by Ford or offered the welcome pack.



I'm not sure who is responsible for this stuff, dealership of head office, but it seems to be very sporadic in its approach. If Ford are going to offer this to customers, it kinda needs to be consistent in its roll out.
 
The Wildtrak's turn today. I've previously noted that I'm in between coatings with this car. I had intended to detail the car in October or November, but I was out of action for the better part of a month due to illness, then I was busy with other things. It was then smashed into by a senile driver, which then involved a second insurance claim, further delaying things. It's now due to be fixed early February. I didn't want to waste time and product on something that would be removed at the shop, and I'm then going to have to contend with the paint curing before polishing and laying down a coating. As such, I'm trying to limp it through until the timing stars align.

Every January, Dad heads off to the Tour Down Under in and around Adelaide, which is a 1460 km (907 miles) round trip, not including the travel to and from each stage. With the above in mind, I really wanted to get something on the paint to hopefully make the post road-trip cleaning easier.

So, first step was a wash using NV Snow, which is slightly more aggressive than other soaps but won't totally strip whatever is left on the paint. After blow drying, I decided to use ADS Ceramic Spray Sealant.



This product couldn't be easier to use, just prime your towel, then apply a couple of sprays per panel and work in with the towel, followed by a dry towel to level any potential streaks. For the most part, you almost don't need the second towel, it flashes away so well. To get the most out of the claimed 6-month longevity, make sure to keep the car dry for at least 8 hours after application, and avoid cleaning products for at least 24 hours.

Here's hoping it will do what I need.
 
My mother used to buy me a Ford/FPV calendar for Christmas every year. This was before online shopping existed, and even if it did, Mum wouldn't know how to do so. As such, she always bought one at a news agent. After FPV stopped doing them, I would get a Ford themed calendar with a variety of old Ford's that didn't really interest me other than them being Ford's. Something like this -

2025 Official Calendar Classic Ford Cars | Supercheap Auto

Nothing against those cars, but as I said, they just don't speak to me like the 90's and 2000's stuff does.

So eventually, I decided instead of looking at other people's cars all year, why not make my own. I know, what a self-absorbed thing to do, but I don't care, at least the images mean something to me rather someone else pride and joy. I make one for myself, then a few to give as Christmas gifts.

















I also have one made featuring my best friend........................











 
Love the calendar! I made one for myself last year and will again soon for 2025.
 
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This image represents where I wanted to be 3 months ago, at ease without a certain something hanging over my head. I still have some hurdles to clear, but they seem so insignificant compared to where I was back then.............or even a week ago.



I've been driving the XR8 a bit lately too, and I have to say, its nice to walk out into the garage and see the car in all its glory rather than hidden under a cover. The suspension though is what my uncle would call "rough as guts", its easily the hardest ride of all my cars, even my workhorse 1-tonne Ranger rides softer.

It also takes quite a bit to reacclimatize to the urgent throttle response and healthy low-end torque. I kinda get why some complain about a lack of torque with the naturally aspirated version of this engine. With my previous Mustang, I think the short gearing and manual transmission masked some of that low rev torque deficit. And...............we were spoiled for choice with engines like the 4.0T Barra and supercharged Miami.

5.0 Coyote V8 (S650 Gen 4) -

345 kW @ 7,250rpm
550 Nm @ 4,850rpm
Curb Weight - 1841 kg

5.0 Miami V8 (Gen 1 Coyote) -

335 kW @ 5750-6000 rpm
570 Nm @ 2200-5500 rpm
Curb Weight - 1815kg

So, a 10-year-old XR8 produces more torque at lower revs and spread over a wider rpm band. In the right conditions, it will also produce more power on over-boost, an official over-boost figure is a little vague, but engineers hinted at about 375 kW/500 hp. The XR8 is also 26 kg lighter, both have 275 rear tyres. So, you would expect the XR8 to be quicker in standing start acceleration times? Actually, very unlikely.

The Mustang has 10 gears instead of 6, which helps the Pony car get off the line with less resistance, even if it does need an extra gear change before hitting 100. The Mustang also has wider rear wheels, so 19x10 with the HP wheels on my car, the Falcon has 19x9. Then consider the Falcon's suspension geometry at the rear, which lacks sufficient travel to squat down and help with traction. On any given day, the 0-100 kph (0-62) times between the two would favor the Mustang, getting the perfect launch from those Falcon's was always a challenge. However, on the right road, right conditions and the perfect launch, both would be doing 4.6 - 4.9 sec 0-100 kph times. But where the Falcon shines is at rolling acceleration, doesn't matter which gear you are in either.

It's not lost on me how lucky I am to have both of these cars to bounce between, comparing two completely different vehicles other than sharing the same basic engine architecture.
 
I also replaced a couple of parts on the Ranger today.

The first was the driver's side scuff panel, which for some reason had popped out of place. I removed and attempted to re-seat it, only to discover the two outboard clips had broken. More great Ford quality.......................



After putting it back in place, I went and ordered a replacement from Jefferson Ford. The new one clicked into place and now is now properly seated.

Ford Front Door Scuff Plate Right Side Everest Ranger: EB3Z2113208AF

Genuine Ford Front Door Scuff Plate Right Side Everest Ranger

At this point I want to say, why didn't I buy one of these sooner................

Kincrome TorqueMaster Trim Clip & Panel Remover Set K8691 - Bunnings Australia



The second item I replaced was the lower fan shroud in the engine bay. Again, for some reason the holding tabs had lost their tension and caused intermittent contact with the fan on startup. The new one clipped in and seated as it should. Again, great quality Ford.

Genuine Ford Lower Fan Shroud For Everest Ranger PX

I have to say, it's pretty average to be replacing parts on a vehicle with so little usage on the clock, and it's not like I'm hard on the car or don't take care of it. Throw in the headlight oxidization and paint wearing off the OE-fit steel wheels, it's annoying for a car with only 43,000 km on the clock.

Same with my father's two PX-series Ranger's, far too much premature wear and major failures. His original 3.2 PX did the auto gearbox at 60,000 km, two rear main seals (one at 20,000 km and again at 100,000km), and the A/C packed it in at 30,000km. On his latest PX III, its had an engine replaced under warranty at 40,000 km because they found metal in the oil from a batch of bad oil pumps, the door exterior lower window trims have all turned white, the headlights oxidized very early on, a broken driver's side lower seat trim, the lettering is coming off the passenger side aluminum door sill plate, the fabric section of the driver's seat is nearly thread bare, the manual mode rocker switch on the gear lever is loose.

These aren't cheap vehicles either. I can't help noticing that my Mazda built 2010 PK Ranger was streets ahead on quality and reliability, impressive considering how cheap it was back then.
 
I also replaced a couple of parts on the Ranger today.

The first was the driver's side scuff panel, which for some reason had popped out of place. I removed and attempted to re-seat it, only to discover the two outboard clips had broken. More great Ford quality.......................



After putting it back in place, I went and ordered a replacement from Jefferson Ford. The new one clicked into place and now is now properly seated.

Ford Front Door Scuff Plate Right Side Everest Ranger: EB3Z2113208AF

Genuine Ford Front Door Scuff Plate Right Side Everest Ranger

At this point I want to say, why didn't I buy one of these sooner................

Kincrome TorqueMaster Trim Clip & Panel Remover Set K8691 - Bunnings Australia



The second item I replaced was the lower fan shroud in the engine bay. Again, for some reason the holding tabs had lost their tension and caused intermittent contact with the fan on startup. The new one clipped in and seated as it should. Again, great quality Ford.

Genuine Ford Lower Fan Shroud For Everest Ranger PX

I have to say, it's pretty average to be replacing parts on a vehicle with so little usage on the clock, and it's not like I'm hard on the car or don't take care of it. Throw in the headlight oxidization and paint wearing off the OE-fit steel wheels, it's annoying for a car with only 43,000 km on the clock.

Same with my father's two PX-series Ranger's, far too much premature wear and major failures. His original 3.2 PX did the auto gearbox at 60,000 km, two rear main seals (one at 20,000 km and again at 100,000km), and the A/C packed it in at 30,000km. On his latest PX III, its had an engine replaced under warranty at 40,000 km because they found metal in the oil from a batch of bad oil pumps, the door exterior lower window trims have all turned white, the headlights oxidized very early on, a broken driver's side lower seat trim, the lettering is coming off the passenger side aluminum door sill plate, the fabric section of the driver's seat is nearly thread bare, the manual mode rocker switch on the gear lever is loose.

These aren't cheap vehicles either. I can't help noticing that my Mazda built 2010 PK Ranger was streets ahead on quality and reliability, impressive considering how cheap it was back then.
So was the Mazda built PK manufactured in Japan? And the latest ones are all Thailand aren't they? Not blaming only the country of manufacture of course, Ford, as will they all, will be reducing costs by cutting the quality of the parts.

I watched a recent video on the new M5 where they were noting the significant drop in the quality of the materials being used, plastic in place of carbon fibre, indicator switches being cheap and clicky rather than damped like they were in previous M cars. It's a bit sad when halo cars are being cost cut this way.
 
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So was the Mazda built PK manufactured in Japan? And the latest ones are all Thailand aren't they? Not blaming only the country of manufacture of course, Ford, as will they all, will be reducing costs by cutting the quality of the parts.

I watched a recent video on the new M5 where they were noting the significant drop in the quality of the materials being used, plastic in place of carbon fibre, indicator switches being cheap and clicky rather than damped like they were in previous M cars. It's a bit sad when halo cars are being cost cut this way.
The PK Ranger was assembled in Thailand as well, Ford and Mazda were co-owners of the Auto-Alliance plant that made the Ranger and BT-50/Bravo. Prior to the T6/PX-series Ranger, Mazda were responsible for all previous Ranger and Courier models. Those vehicles were simply restyled on the exterior, but carried the exact same interior as the Mazda. Same applied to the last generation Ford Laser, they were made in Japan alongside the 323 and the build quality was extremely good, again impressive for such a low price point.

When the PX series Ranger surfaced in the early 2010's, the situation was flipped. Ford were now responsible for the engineering of both Ranger and BT-50, although Mazda did their own styling. Both made in the same plant. However, at some point Ford and Mazda parted ways, giving Ford priority on production volume. Despite the split, Mazda continued with the Ranger-based BT-50 but didn't get any of the PX MK II updates such as the much better electric steering or the Bi-Turbo/10-speed powertrain.

A lot of people don't realise the change that went on between Mazda and Ford, most still think the Ranger is a rebadged Mazda. Another one that I keep hearing is that the previous generation Ranger with the 3.2 inline-5 was a "Volvo motor"...............................................


Just because it had 5-cylinders, that didn't make it a Volvo engine. Ford and Volvo had parted ways long before that, and even then, it was actually a PSA/Peugeot-Citroen collaboration. The Puma engine family was modular, meaning a 2.2-litre 4-cylinder and a 3.2-litre 5-cylinder. Those engines were mostly used in the Transit, but the 2.2 appeared in a variety of Peugeot and Citroen models, even the Mitsubishi Outlander-based 4007 SUV used it. The 2.2 was also used in a variety of Jaguar (X-Type, XF) and Landrover models (Freelander/Disco Sport/Evoque).
 
The Wildtrak's turn today. I've previously noted that I'm in between coatings with this car. I had intended to detail the car in October or November, but I was out of action for the better part of a month due to illness, then I was busy with other things. It was then smashed into by a senile driver, which then involved a second insurance claim, further delaying things. It's now due to be fixed early February. I didn't want to waste time and product on something that would be removed at the shop, and I'm then going to have to contend with the paint curing before polishing and laying down a coating. As such, I'm trying to limp it through until the timing stars align.

Every January, Dad heads off to the Tour Down Under in and around Adelaide, which is a 1460 km (907 miles) round trip, not including the travel to and from each stage. With the above in mind, I really wanted to get something on the paint to hopefully make the post road-trip cleaning easier.

So, first step was a wash using NV Snow, which is slightly more aggressive than other soaps but won't totally strip whatever is left on the paint. After blow drying, I decided to use ADS Ceramic Spray Sealant.



This product couldn't be easier to use, just prime your towel, then apply a couple of sprays per panel and work in with the towel, followed by a dry towel to level any potential streaks. For the most part, you almost don't need the second towel, it flashes away so well. To get the most out of the claimed 6-month longevity, make sure to keep the car dry for at least 8 hours after application, and avoid cleaning products for at least 24 hours.

Here's hoping it will do what I need.
I've been using this since it came out. Love it. Two coats lasted the winter here in Illinois.
 
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Twenty-five years ago, I was enjoying the freedom that came from a driver's license and my first car.



My parents helped me with my first car. After searching far and wide looking at various Falcon's, eventually this 2001 AU III Fairmont sedan popped up at the local Ford dealer. After a test drive, along the same roads I shot the videos of my Mustang and XR6, it all went quiet. A few days later, I noticed the car had disappeared from the lot, which was kinda the clue. On my birthday, the 28th of December, this 3-year-old Fairmont was sitting in the driveway. A few days later, I passed my driving test in the same vehicle. Funnily, one of my friends got to drive my first car before I did, he worked at the Ford dealer as an apprentice mechanic, where he did the pre-sale inspection.



The car was made on the 11th of November 2001, making it one of the first AU III's off the line. So early that this example actually had the AU II's diamond pattern seat and door trim material. This didn't bother me, actually I only discovered it a few years later, at least it had the Warm Charcoal instead of the cheap looking Dark Graphite grey colour tone.

With only 54,000 km on the clock and painted in the majestic Barossa Red, it had the standard 157 kW 4.0 SOHC engine and 4-speed auto. Apart from the massive tow bar, which was clearly used going by the scraped up rear mud flaps, the car was standard. Although that would change, my uncle was the spare parts manager at the same Ford dealer, so I had access to various genuine Ford parts.



The first thing I did was to fit a rear spoiler. With various spoilers offered on the AU, I wanted it to look like it was originally ordered with it, so I went with the curvier item with the triangular central brake light. That spoiler was originally used on the series one XR's, but for AU II and AU III, it then became the factory option spoiler and was standard on the SR SVP. I had it painted and fitted at a local panel shop......................who lost my keys and ended up having to replace the whole ignition system with two brand new keys/fobs installed at their cost. Thinking back, this was when my phobia of leaving my cars in the "care" of someone else began.



Next, I replaced the ugly 16-inch wheels that were fitted with horrible no-name tyres fitted. Actually, I nearly wrote the car off due to those tyres, the rear snapping into full opposite lock oversteers on a cold, wet morning WITHOUT provocation. The AU III Fairmont used the previous AU II Fairmont Ghia wheels, they were a nightmare to clean and really made the car look like the grandpa's express it was originally meant to be.

Again, I wanted OEM, which back then was relatively simple. They don't exist anymore, but Wheel King used to buy up OE wheels from Holden and Ford and offered them at a good price, with or without tyres. I decided I wanted the 17-inch wheels offered as an option on AU series one XR's, but was also the optional Tickford wheels on all other models. They had a machined face, which made them shimmer on the move. I also liked how easy they were to clean and the beautiful set of Tickford wings on the center caps.



On the inside, I fitted a Momo leather shifter. I also fitted the Fairmont Ghia woodgrain surround, which involved removal of the 1-piece center console. I remember it being mid-summer, so I was working inside the car with the fan running....................then flattened the battery. You live, you learn. :unsure: At some point, I also had a Metallic Blue Momo steering wheel fitted, the best steering wheel I have ever used. This wheel was optional across the range and was a different to the Wild Blue used on the T-Series.



I also got my uncle to order a Fairlane exhaust tip. I remember paying $120 trade for it. I could have bought something generic from Repco or Supercheap, but no, I wanted the Ford part, I just loved the size and angle of it. It didn't change the sound, which was fine by me. They also used this tip on XR6 VCT.



Mechanically, the car served me well. I put 30,000 km on the car over the 3.5 years I owned it, I even loaded my mower in the back to go do lawns. At one point, it needed the front ball joints addressed as it had a weird clunk in the front end when letting off the brakes from rest. I also had to replace the rear muffler as it was rotted out towards the end of my ownership. And the 6-stack CD head unit needed to be repaired, as did the climate control display.



Driving wise, it was a superb long-distance cruiser with stunning highway fuel economy. The brakes were weak though, and I suspect it had done a LOT of towing, the transmission was occasionally thump back to second. Ride comfort was as expected for a car heavily skewed to an older driver, but she did like to roll around a bit. The engine was super smooth up to about 3000 rpm, at which point the intake manifold would switch to the short runners for the final 2750 rpm. Those engines really didn't like to spend much time over 3000 rpm, they were noisy and rough as guts up top. The noise was pretty nasty as well, too much wheezing and whining. But.................she would pull a mean single ped burnout pulling out of rural TAFE campus at 3.30pm home time. (Hey, we all did it) :ROFLMAO:



In the end, I sold the car to a family friend in June 2008, but haven't seen it since. It's hard to know if I miss the car itself, or the time in my life when things weren't so complicated. Probably both.

Most of the images above were taken in the same locations as the below images, 20 years later......................



 
You should see the lowered AU's here in Tasmania, Slammed like some Japanese wannabe drifters, A gold one comes hooning up the road with a cut off muffler and welded diff, only to drop a burnout every time at the same intersection...BLOODY P Platers.
 
You should see the lowered AU's here in Tasmania, Slammed like some Japanese wannabe drifters, A gold one comes hooning up the road with a cut off muffler and welded diff, only to drop a burnout every time at the same intersection...BLOODY P Platers.
Bloody P Platers, haven't heard that phrase before but I'm sure it sounds awesome in your accent

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Too right it does mate.

And in case you wanted to know....

View attachment 137585
Thanks Dave, love the use of wording down there, could listen to you guys and Brits talk all day. We've got an actual girl from Ireland on one of our local news channels and I've gotta REALLY pay attention because that accent is VERY strong

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Bloody P Platers, haven't heard that phrase before but I'm sure it sounds awesome in your accent

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All newly licensed drivers must carry a P plate in the front and rear window or bumper. Learner drivers must carry a yellow L plate.

Probationary drivers under 21 have a two-stage four-year license system. This means you will have: a P1 license (red P-plate) for the first 12 months. a P2 license (green P-plate) for the next three years.





There are also restrictions on what a probationary (P Plate) drivers can drive. At one point, in addition to the ban on V8's, ALL turbocharged/supercharged engines were also outlawed. In theory this stopped an 18-year-old from buying, or even driving, a V8 Falcon, Commodore or Mustang. That system was pretty silly though, especially once all the downsized 4-cylinder turbo engines came to market. In theory you couldn't drive a 110-kW (148 hp) turbocharged VW Golf, but you could drive a RWD 4.0 inline-6 Falcon with 195-kW (262 hp).

The later system is based around power to weight, which helps account for small turbo gas and diesel vehicles on the road now.
 
All newly licensed drivers must carry a P plate in the front and rear window or bumper. Learner drivers must carry a yellow L plate.







There are also restrictions on what a probationary (P Plate) drivers can drive. At one point, in addition to the ban on V8's, ALL turbocharged/supercharged engines were also outlawed. In theory this stopped an 18-year-old from buying, or even driving, a V8 Falcon, Commodore or Mustang. That system was pretty silly though, especially once all the downsized 4-cylinder turbo engines came to market. In theory you couldn't drive a 110-kW (148 hp) turbocharged VW Golf, but you could drive a RWD 4.0 inline-6 Falcon with 195-kW (262 hp).

The later system is based around power to weight, which helps account for small turbo gas and diesel vehicles on the road now.
I get the concept there but damn that's some government overreach...GOD BLESS AMERICA

I say this because that assuming 100% of new drivers are a$$hats and irresponsible, inexperienced yes but that's truely painting with a broad brush

So can I ask how "pensioners" are dealt with there

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I get the concept there but damn that's some government overreach...GOD BLESS AMERICA

I say this because that assuming 100% of new drivers are a$$hats and irresponsible, inexperienced yes but that's truely painting with a broad brush

So can I ask how "pensioners" are dealt with there

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I'd rather have this system that we use in place because it tells you who you are sharing the roads with, as for the elderly they might have to take a fitness to drive test from their doctor a form basically saying they can still move properly bend neck and eye sight etc, don't fall asleep.

Or you can even dob in a bad driver (snitch) and they will have to reset the driver's test. Again I'd rather this than someone killing my family.

But there are those who don't have a licence drug/drink drive and don't care who they hurt.

Driving is a privilege not a right.
 
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I'd rather have this system that we use in place because it tells you who you are sharing the roads with, as for the elderly they might have to take a fitness to drive test from their doctor a form basically saying they can still move properly bend neck and eye sight etc, don't fall asleep.

Or you can even dob in a bad driver (snitch) and they will have to reset the driver's test. Again I'd rather this than someone killing my family.

But there are those who don't have a licence drug/drink drive and don't care who they hurt.

Driving is a privilege not a right.
I agree with the last line

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