did i do something wrong?

Bamsies

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hey guys whats up, ive been stalking these forums for quite a while. im kinda new to the detailing game but ive learned a lot through your guys. ive been practicing my polishing while my school schedule doesn't allow me to really start my business.

so here is a little issue ive run into when polishing.
the pics below are of my car. im not sure whether i did something wrong or if that's as good as my cars paint is gonna get.

here are2 pics of the paints condition. its not just this section its the entire car but these were the best pics i could show it with

2n69kio.jpg

344f6mf.jpg


now i compounded it using CG V32 n their microfiber cutting pad, then i hit it with CG V34 & a their white Hes logic pad followed by CG Blacklight & a red Hex logic pad.

my car looks great under flourescnet its got great shine n looks real wet.

6iek2h.jpg

4j2k45.jpg


however when im parked in an area where there is very few light sources, or are real yellow lights for that matter, i can still see imperfections.
im assuming its micro marring?

this is the best shot i could show it with
1q03tc.jpg



did i do something wrong? or miss a step? or is this as good as its gonna get?
thanks in advance for any tips or help
 
I have that same cloudy problem with my Honda paint.

The next time I top my wax ill try a finish polish to see if it helps.

Other then that I'm in for suggestions.
 
Read through this...

DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide


Tyler, age 15 removing swirls using a Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher
1965Plymouth035.jpg


When you're first starting out machine polishing and learning to use a DA Polisher it's common to have questions about your results and your results are directly tied to your technique.

Here's a list of the most common problems,
1. Trying to work too large of an area at one time.

2. Moving the polisher too fast over the surface.

3. Using too low of speed setting for removing swirls.

4. Using too little downward pressure on the head of the polisher.

5. Using too much downward pressure on the head of the polisher so the pad quits rotating.

6. Not holding the polisher in a way to keep the pad flat while working your compound or polish.

7. Using too much product or using too little product.

8. Not cleaning the pad often enough.
Here's a list of the solutions in matching order,

1. Trying to work too large of an area at one time.
Shrink the size of your work area down. You can't tackle to large of an area at one time. The average size work area should be around 20" by 20". Most generic recommendations say to work an area 2' by 2' but for the correction step, that's too large. You have to do some experimenting, (called a Test Spot), to find out how easy or how hard the defects are coming out of your car's paint system and then adjust your work area to the results of your Test Spot. The harder the paint the smaller the area you want to work.


2. Moving the polisher too fast over the surface.
For removing defects out of the paint you want to use what we call a Slow Arm Speed. It's easy and actually natural for most people new to machine polishing to move the polisher quickly over the paint but that's the wrong technique. One reason I think people move the polisher too quickly over the paint is because they hear the sound of the motor spinning fast and this has psychological effect which causes them to match their arm movement to the perceived fast speed of the polisher's motor.

Another reason people move the polisher too quickly over the paint is because they think like this,

"If I move the polisher quickly, I'll get done faster"

But it doesn't work that way. Anytime you're trying to remove swirls, scratches, water spots or oxidation using a DA Polisher you need to move the polisher s-l-o-w-l-y over the paint.



3. Using too low of speed setting for removing swirls.
When first starting out many people are scared of burning or swirling their paint, so they take the safe route of running the polisher at too low of a speed setting but this won't work. The action of the polisher is already g-e-n-t-l-e, you need the speed and specifically the pad oscillating and rotating over the paint as well as the combination of time, (slow arm speed), together with the abrasives, the pad aggressiveness, and the downward pressure to remove small particles of paint which is how your remove below surface defects like swirls or scratches.

Removing below surface defects is a leveling process where you need the abrasives to take little bites out of the paint and to get the abrasives to take these little bites with a tool that uses a Free Floating Spindle Bearing Assembly you need all of the above factors working for you including a high speed setting.



4. Using too little downward pressure on the head of the polisher.
For the same reason as stated in #3, people are scared, or perhaps a better word is apprehensive, to apply too much downward pressure to the polisher and the result of too little pressure is no paint is removed thus no swirls are removed.



5. Using too much downward pressure on the head of the polisher so the pad quits rotating.
If you push too hard you will slow down the rotating movement of the pad and the abrasives won't be effectively worked against the paint. You need to apply firm pressure to engage the abrasives against the paint but no so much that the pad is barely rotating. This is where it's a good idea to use a permanent black marker to make a mark on the back of your backing plate so your eyes can easily see if the pad is rotating or not and this will help you to adjust your downward pressure accordingly.

Correct technique means finding a balance of applying enough downward pressure to remove defects but not too much downward pressure as to stop the rotating movement of the pad.

This balance is affected by a lot of factors like the lubricity of the product you're using, some compounds and polishes provide more lubrication than others and this makes it easier to maintain pad rotation under pressure.

Another factor that can affect pad rotation are raised body lines, edges and curved surfaces as anytime you have uneven pressure on just a portion of the face of the pad it can slow or stop pad rotation. This is where experience comes into play and experience comes from time spent behind the polisher.



6. Not holding the polisher in a way to keep the pad flat while working your compound or polish.
Applying pressure in such a way as to put too much pressure to one edge of the pad will cause it to stop rotating and thus decrease abrading ability.



7. Using too much product or using too little product.
Too much product hyper-lubricates the surface and the result is that abrasives won't effectively bite into the paint but instead will tend to skim over the surface. Overusing product will also accelerate pad saturation as well increase the potential for slinging splatter onto adjacent panels.

Too little product will means too little lubrication and this can interfere with pad rotation.

Again there needs to be a balance between too much product and too little product and finding this balance comes from reading articles like this one, watching videos an most important, going out into the garage and putting in time behind the polisher and as you're buffing with specific product and pad combinations, pay attention to pad rotation.



8. Not cleaning the pad often enough.
Most people simply don't clean their pad often enough to maximize the effectiveness of their DA Polisher. Anytime you're abrading the paint you have two things building up on the face of your buffing pad,
  • Removed paint
  • Spent product
As these to things build up on the face of the pad they become gummy and this has a negative affect on pad rotating plus makes wiping the leftover residue on the paint more difficult. To maintain good pad rotation you want to clean your pad often and always wipe-off any leftover product residue off the paint after working a section. Never add fresh product to your pad and work a section that still has leftover product residue on it.


Pad Cleaning Articles

Why it's important to clean your pads often...

How to clean your foam pad on the fly

How to use the Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer


Tyler, age 15 machine applying a paste wax using a Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher

1965Plymouth067.jpg


1965Plymouth071.jpg



:buffing:

:)
 
thanks!

well its not really haze, its just when i look real close at a light source i can see real tiny marring maybe 1-3 mm long. all my swirls are gone but i can still see marring such as the one in the last pic?


i did do a test spot and all the swirls n stuff were gone, i was able to see the reflection of the halogens like a mirror.

im going to give using v36 n v 38 a shot, what pads should i try?
 
Bamsies, like me, you are perhaps a newcomer to the DA Methods, and no doubt, any lack of getting your desired results most likely reside in Mike's list above.

I'd bet your paint correction, and your vehicle looks better than 99.8% of the vehicles on the road, but you're thinking it can get better, and you're probably right.

My own personal shortcomings, that I believe is because I don't have enough hands on experience under my belt yet, is some under-correction, because I'm afraid I might do a damage to the paint that can then not be corrected.

That I'm getting about 90% final results from products, and tools so far.
You might be in the same boat?

As they say, practice makes perfect, and the use of some other fine products might help you find a personal favorite.

One thing I have also noticed, and it's also one of Mike's good advice, and that is "keeping it clean". I believe the better the quality and cleanliness of Appicators, MF Towels, and the degree of difficulty to get products off the vehicle have a high degree of influence to the final results.

Without a doubt, once correction is done, the damage process of instilling swirls, and fine micro-scratching starts all over again, with the first wax-sealant application, the first wash and dry, etc. Mark
 
I think I see the light marring you are talking about. Was it there prior to your polishing or is it new? CG V32 and MF cutting pads is a very aggressive combo, so its hard to say if it was caused from that combo not being effectively followed up with a polish -or- from that combo not removing the initial defects for whatever reason.

This is why a test spot is so super important. You have to dial in your process and product before you work the whole car. You have to figure out somehow to gain access to some type of lighting where you can see the defects, so you can tell if your process is removing them.

The good news is it likely can be fixed. MF pads cut fast and are more aggressive than foam, but unless your detailing for money or your car is trashed, I would stick with foam pads to polish that out, because I think they are more Bubba proof and generally finish better and are less finicky.

Im not familiar with CG polishes. For me, Wolfgang TSR 3.0 on an orange or yellow Lake Country CCS pad pretty much removes everything a polish (not compound) is capable of removing and finishes almost perfect. Optimum Polish is also great, just less aggressive and a tad easier to use (SMAT).

But I'm sure you could fix that close to perfect with your CG polish and the CORRECT foam pad, which would be the least aggressive pad that removes it. I've never had much luck actually removing marring or scratches with a WHITE foam pad, and I'm making a huge assumption that the CG HL White Foam Pad is similar foam to LC White Foam CCS/Flat pad.

So, I would try a more aggressive foam pad with the polish starting out working on a test spot. I would make sure I had adequate lighting to see the defects so I cod tell if I was fixing them. I would slow my arm speed, decrease my work area, and use more downward pressure, decrease the pad size as required to make the process more aggressive as required.

Good luck and let us know how it turned out!
 
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