Didn't think duragloss 501 had this much cut

N

nightanole

New member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
I bought my sonta new, and ran it through the "free car washes for life" the first winter and it did mar the paint alittle. First year i used CG nano wax after stripping the factory wax and it looked pretty good compared to stripped. Most of the micro scratches where filled in.

This year i decided to use the duragloss 501/601 combo because it was a bear to get the nano wax buffed off.
I used CG water spot remover to clean as prep and applied the 4/1 mix of duragloss by hand using a new microfiber applicator and made 4 passes in the same direction to prevent swirls. Looked great in the garage and outside while cloudy. Did the first wash 2 weeks later with ON no rinse wash n wax (been using wash n shine). Been cloudy last week. It was sunny yesterday and i noticed the whole car has a light hologram effect and i know its from the 501 because its in the same direction as i applied it.

What can i do to fix this since i dont have a buffer? Reapply using a circular motion? I really thought 501 wouldnt have any cut unless you used and aggressive pad.
 
nightanole said:
I bought my sonta new, and ran it through the "free car washes for life" the first winter and it did mar the paint alittle. First year i used CG nano wax after stripping the factory wax and it looked pretty good compared to stripped. Most of the micro scratches where filled in.

This year i decided to use the duragloss 501/601 combo because it was a bear to get the nano wax buffed off.
I used CG water spot remover to clean as prep and applied the 4/1 mix of duragloss by hand using a new microfiber applicator and made 4 passes in the same direction to prevent swirls. Looked great in the garage and outside while cloudy. Did the first wash 2 weeks later with ON no rinse wash n wax (been using wash n shine). Been cloudy last week. It was sunny yesterday and i noticed the whole car has a light hologram effect and i know its from the 501 because its in the same direction as i applied it.

What can i do to fix this since i dont have a buffer? Reapply using a circular motion? I really thought 501 wouldnt have any cut unless you used and aggressive pad.
Click to expand...

The reason a random orbital buffer is such an effective tool is that it eliminates any hand polishing marks due to its rotation. My strong recommendation to you is to buy a RO polisher. You will wonder how you ever lived without one. There are tons of deals on used ones on ebay too. Do your homework and one will cost you very little.
If you must do by hand, I would suggest something light like Megs 205 or what used to be Menz 106ff (don't know the # now). Use 501/501 after that with light pressure and it should do a bang-up job for you.
 
I suggest hitting Ebay for a used Griot's Garage 6" RO and get yourself some of their 6" orange foam pads along with some red ones to start. Like Richy said, you'll wonder how you lived w/o one, trust me its very easy to use and more importantly VERY safe to use.

Richy knows of what he speaks for sure too!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Well all the used ones are gen 1 which I hear are bad. The 3rd gen ones for sale are allmost the cost of new with shipping. Guess ill use my $20 off $125 from autogeek and just get a newone :)
 
You need a polisher (Griots is fine) and maybe a fine polish. Everyone is correct, working by hands with any products containing abrasives is just hit or miss. I've never really been as to do it successfully no matter how hard I try.

You likely can fix the "holograms" with the Duragloss products on a polishing pad. But, you may want to invest in some decent polishes just in case you need something more aggressive.

For not too much money, you can get small bottle of Optimum polishes. They work very well. I would get Polish II at the very least and a few polishing and finishing pads.

Keep in mind that if you have smaller areas to buff where a 6" pad won't fit, you will want to get a smaller backing ate and pads. Good luck!
 
501 left micro marring all over my car. I just stick to 111 and 105 both superb products. 501 is for boats to remove dirt algae etc. Why would you use it on a car?
 
lkotsios said:
501 left micro marring all over my car. I just stick to 111 and 105 both superb products. 501 is for boats to remove dirt algae etc. Why would you use it on a car?
Click to expand...

The answer to that question is how well #501 cleans the paint and as far as micro marring I can't say I've ever noticed this when using #501 by hand OR machine, so not sure what's up with that. There's some here that only use #501 on their rides!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
lkotsios said:
501 left micro marring all over my car. I just stick to 111 and 105 both superb products. 501 is for boats to remove dirt algae etc. Why would you use it on a car?
Click to expand...

What pad did you use with DG 501? I've used it with black pads with no effects on paint, stepped up to a white pad and have experienced marring. I wouldn't blame the chemical, I would look at the pad.

OP, what microfiber applicator did you use? I have marred paint with the type Walmart sells but have not with SM Arnold.
 
Thanks to richy and rwright's posts, DG501 has become my go-to cleaner when little or no correction is needed. I use mostly 4" Meg's pads on my GG, yellow if I think the finish needs some aggressive cleaning, black if it doesn't. I've used it so far on BMW, Audi, Honda and GM paint without any ill effects. IMO, this stuff really rocks as a cleaner wax! I think either the brothers at DG mixed in some kind of friction modifier that turns it from turquoise to dirty gray or my old eyes are failing, 'cause it turns up an unbelievable amount of garbage on paints that look clean to the eye.

Bill
 
Richy is the man. I'm glad he introduced me to the Duragloss line. Car wash, Aquawax, 105, 501, and 601 are pretty much all I use though.
 
I've gotten some marring with DG 501 on a white pad, but I blame the pad. I wonder if using a black finishing pad would pull as much dirt as a white pad?
 
Why does everyone seem sure this is marring and not just unbuffed or unevenly applied product?
 
I found that DG501 is an excellent paint cleaner but didn't have any correction. If it did it was very very little. But I find the durability to be pretty decent. I was curious to see how long one coat wold last, so i stuck one coat on one of my cars that sits outside 24/7 a little over a month and a half ago and it still beads. The beading is not nice and tight like at first but it still beads. This is after heavy rains and a 600 mile round trip that also involved quite a bit of rain. I've also done three cars with and had no marring. All three coats were applied using a Griots RO using a white pad and orange pad (trying for more correction).
 
Are you sure 501 just didn't reveal the marring by cleaning so well? Also when you apply things by hand, the pressure is uneven, you could've possibly caused the marring as well. Just throwing things out there.
 
cleanmycorolla said:
Are you sure 501 just didn't reveal the marring by cleaning so well? Also when you apply things by hand, the pressure is uneven, you could've possibly caused the marring as well. Just throwing things out there.
Click to expand...

That, and perhaps other possibilities. Maybe too, the chemical action of DG501 breaking loose lots of nasties stuck to the paint, and then one just spreads such all over the paint?

Hot paint, or applications in direct sunlight can also cause funny things to happen. That a product is virtually drying upon contact, or too quickly, you're then spreading what is almost like chaulk across the paint.


I too have found virtually no cut at all to DG501. While cleaners are there, seems that any quantity of abrasives are just about zero.
Mark
 
I have never experienced marring with 501 with a white pad on both silver and white cars. Usually use speed 4 on GG DA and light pressure.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Why does everyone seem sure this is marring and not just unbuffed or unevenly applied product?
Click to expand...

On my hard GM paint I didn't get any marring. I noticed I got a tiny amount on softer paint though, maybe the speed was too high on the buffer.
 
Ive been doing amateur hour waxing 2x a year for 20 years using either a micro fiber applicator or a brand new cotton field crest towel. While yes the paint has never been corrected and has been threw the auto wash at least 10 times (couldnt tell it was marring till i stripped it) it did cover up the marring with nano wax just fine.

The only reason i know the marring is from the 501 is because the micro marring is left to right on the trunk. I applied it in the garage at about 75f and misted alittle ON no rinse mixed in distilled water before hand for a little lube. It might have been the pad that gave it too much bite. I only went over the areas 4 swipes with the pad by hand with little elbow grease (im 150lbs soaking wet with a roll of quarters in my pockets).

So Should i get the black pad for final, or the blue one? The combos just come with orange white and blue pads. Looks like blue is softer than black.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top