discouraged

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kevkev

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Hi my name is kevin,
So i have been a detailing enthusiast for about three years and just last summer i decided to take it serious. So started to buy a bunch of products to get a business going after the wife finishes school. During this time im in the process of getting all of my skill sets down to perfection but it seems like im getting nowhere. What i mean by this is ill polish for hours on a section of the car and it does nothing to the paint still looks the same as when i started aside from light swirls. I started oit with a PC then went to an industrail rotoray buffer and yeld no results. Ill use chemical guys V series polishes and Maguires 105 and 205 with cutting pads and all sorts of pads. The paint im working on is a VW ssilver paint and in the day light it looks oh so good but night time with all the lights and angles it looks like poo, im not sure what the deal is ive watched several videos and with all the lighting and angles from a finished detail the cars look damn near flawless, I've gone as far as color sanding sections to see a difference and all i get and the same results as if all i did was dull the paint and just reshined it. I do understand youll never get perfect but it seems like no change happens with this paint, ive done a honda and made it look new almost flawless paint but still flaws that look like they should be gone. Idk im very discouraged sorry for long rant just looking for pointers
 
kevkev said:
Hi my name is kevin,

im very discouraged sorry for long rant just looking for pointers
Click to expand...

First.... welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:

You've just joined the best detailing discussion forum on the net and the most helpful.

I've dissected your post and pulled out the key points I want to address and I'm sure others will chime in.


kevkev said:
I started out with a PC then went to an industrial rotary buffer and yield no results.

and Maguires 105 and 205 with cutting pads and all sorts of pads.
Click to expand...


The rotary buffer is a powerful tool with good technique and experience. If you're new to this tool then don't get bummed out if you struggle at first to get the results you're looking for. It's not the easiest tool to start out with. I started out with the rotary buffer but that's because we didn't have the Porter Cable when I started out.

The Porter Cable is an amazing tool. It would take me forever to create a thread showing the before and after pictures of all the cars I've fixed using ONLY the Porter Cable.

The key is mastering the tool and that also comes with time behind the tool.

Abrasive technology is the most IMPORTANT factor when it comes to getting great results when polishing paint.

M205 is very good but it can also be a tick more difficult to get show car results on softer paint when first starting out.

(For all the M205 fans I was working on a black 1966 Batmobile when the head chemist at Meguiar's brought me a lab sample of the first batches of M205 so I'm not new to this product)


Remember these simple tips....

For compounding use cutting pads and for polishing use finishing pads.

ALWAYS clean your pad after you buff a section or you'll be GRINDING the spent product and the paint you removed from the previously panel back into the paint of the new section you're buffing and this is a recipe for putting swirls into paint.

With the PC you need to be using the 6 speed setting.

Mark your backing plate so you can more easily monitor pad rotation. I'll post a link to a thread that shows this and explains more detail.

Use a crosshatch pattern when buffing out paint and overlap your passes by about 50%.

Use a slow arm speed, this means move the polisher slowly over the paint.


Don't try to buff large sections at one time, lay out a microfiber towel, most are 16" by 16" square and buff a section just a little larger than this and be mindful to avoid buffer creep.

Make 6-8 section passes when buffing a section. A section pass is when you move the polisher over the section you're buffing with enough back and forth (or front to back) passes to cover the section one time.

Start buffing with firm downward pressure on the pad but reduce pressure for the last few section passes.


Wipe the residue off immediately after you finish buffing a section. Compounds and polishes don't need to dry.


And remember... you really want to use products that use great abrasive technology. You'll get great results consistently on all paint types.

I show a lot of Pinnacle compounds and polishes on the cars I work on and never do a job twice.

Menzerna is good, SONAX is good, RUPES is good and there are others that I would say have great chemists and offer great abrasive technology.


:)
 
Thanks for the tips i feel like im pretty good with rotoray i just feel like its not removing anthing from my paint just heating it up. Maybe these flaws are too deep idk ill practice what you listed above thank you again
 
Rembermer, factory clearcoats are thin. Read this,

Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips

watermark.php





After you remove the shallow scratches the deeper scratches stand out like a sore thumb. Read this,

RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term...



Here's a few tips here,

How to use a Rotary Polisher


SeptBootCampClass007.jpg






:)
 
@Mike,
You know what I admire about you? You take the time to write posts like this and help people each time. I've been on other forums and all they want to do is either tell people to use the search feature or ONLY post links. You rock buddy!
 
I am a neophyte but have a 2010 vw reflex silver and can tell you that it is very hard clear coat. Also difficult to see minor imperfections so easy to do whole car in day they see the less easy to see imperfections under a strong light at night. I've only done my car once, and am getting ready to do again this summer/fall. Definitely going to do the test spot to really figure out what product I need this time. I kind of just picked a product last time and went with it. It came out ok but definitely left a lot of minor swirls in that rock hard clear coat.
 
I have Mike's Old Book "The Art of Detailing" which is now updated and called "The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine".
I have been detailing for quite a while. I am an Old Bald Man and I want to let you know that you CAN teach an old guy new tricks!! If it were me; I would highly recommend getting his book.
I am always looking for new ways to improve my technique and his book is something you should get.

IMO reading his techniques and looking on his "how-to" vids will really help you and ENCOURAGE you to move forward.

Don't worry about your predicament and I am sure you will kick azz here very soon with all the advice you can get here.

PS: Welcome to AGO!
 
Trust me guys im no noob to forums. This is a case of failure looking for corrections. Much appreciation for the warm welcomes.
 
Get a copy of Mikes book. Lot of good info in there.
 
Mittenz said:
@Mike,
You know what I admire about you? You take the time to write posts like this and help people each time. I've been on other forums and all they want to do is either tell people to use the search feature or ONLY post links. You rock buddy!
Click to expand...

:iagree: Thanks, Mike!
 
Gotta love how helpful and descriptive Mike is with his posts :xyxthumbs:
 
Sorry i no longer own a dslr but you can kinda see what im talking about
 
Those scratches are throughout the paint and dont seem to go away
 
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