Distilled water and black paint....

I just seen the pic of the Solo sprayer above and thought I'd share my experience with these…..

These Solo Sprayers are superior to any other kind of sprayer I have used in the past.

They are built like tanks and you can put just about anything through them with absolutely NO clogging.

I've got both and they are both handy and get used a lot for different purposes.

They spray a jet stream all the way to a fine mist.

Both of mine have lasted for about two years now and I use them weekly!

Amazon.com : Solo 420 2-Liter One-Hand Pressure Sprayer : Lawn And Garden Sprayers : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : Solo 418 1-Liter One-Hand Pressure Sprayer : Lawn And Garden Sprayers : Patio, Lawn & Garden



So thanks guys, now I found a reason to buy another one and dedicate it only to my Rav4 :)


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cardaddy said:
The 'quick' of it.....
Being as you don't really need a grit guard (nothing goes back into the solution) you can use your clean water bucket. (Mine is the soap bucket, keep dual grit guards in both soap and rinse bucket.)

If it's not black paint (or non metallic colors) you can actually use tap water for the wash bucket. I'll *always* use distilled in the sprayer though.

Any-who.....
Generally 2~3 gallons of water and 12~18 clean microfibers. Only use one side of them, and only use them ONCE. (I'll use a lesser towel on the rockers, bottom of the bumpers, tail pipes etc.) I won't even put my open hand on the back of the towels, just hold them by the corners and lightly pull them across the panel(s) in ONE DIRECTION ONLY. (Not circular.)

If the panel needs another 'swipe' I'll use another towel.

Then to dry it down I'll spray heavily with the distilled mix (also pre-spray the entire vehicle concentrating on below the side moldings, behind the wheels, back deck lid, back bumper etc.).

From there it's switching to PAINT QUALITY towels (as in finishing work towels) to dry down. Preferably something like 530 GSM towels as they are more absorbent. I'll do more laying the towel down and patting the surface of the towel than I'll do outright wiping. I *will not* use waffle weave for rinseless washes, EVER.

Finally.... I'll take a QD spray and finishing towels and go over the entire vehicle. :D
Click to expand...

So you do a rinseless wash (GDM) but rinse anyway at the end with DI?

Just making sure I understood correctly. :)
 
davey g-force said:
So you do a rinseless wash (GDM) but rinse anyway at the end with DI?

Just making sure I understood correctly. :)
Click to expand...

Yes... the GDM method. But no, I don't rinse with purely DI water, that'll be a mix in the sprayer with whatever rinseless product I'm using at the time.

Do need to clarify on the statement that "you can use tap water" when washing. Clearly everybody can't use it, but *I CAN* being as here our water is soft, pH around 7.2i-sh and doesn't spot so terribly bad. ;)
 
Does anyone actually use a handheld sprayer with distilled
water as a final rinse? How long does that specific part
of the car wash take and how much distilled water do you
use? Bo:buffing:
 
Lexi65 said:
Does anyone actually use a handheld sprayer with distilled
water as a final rinse? How long does that specific part
of the car wash take and how much distilled water do you
use? Bo:buffing:
Click to expand...

Yes i do, and takes about 5 min. Use about 2 gallons. But then i dry with a leaf blower. Any water left over or that drips later won't leave water spots.:xyxthumbs:
Mike
 
harleymike said:
Yes i do, and takes about 5 min. Use about 2 gallons. But then i dry with a leaf blower. Any water left over or that drips later won't leave water spots.:xyxthumbs:
Mike
Click to expand...

Five minutes doesn't sound bad... Is that just the typical spray
mist. I have the sprayer from AGO Professional Mercury that sprays each time
Instead of just once it sprays twice...hard to explain.
Thanks. :buffing:
 
cardaddy said:
... *I CAN* being as here our water is soft, pH around 7.2i-sh and doesn't spot so terribly bad. ;)
Click to expand...

I don't think water being "soft" has much to do with water spotting. Softened water is usually accomplished by adding salt and not the reduction of total dissolved solids, which are the cause water spots.

I am not sure that pH is a variable in water spotting either, but would like to hear more about this aspect. I could see how well water that had a low pH could contain higher TDS, because of the acidic affect on the geology that the water comes from, but I do not believe there is a correlation between pH and water spots


Los Angeles has a published TDS of 93ppm and I find this water does spot prolifically

What is considered the highest TDS that will not cause water spots?
 
allenk4 said:
I don't think water being "soft" has much to do with water spotting. Softened water is usually accomplished by adding salt and not the reduction of total dissolved solids, which are the cause water spots.

I am not sure that pH is a variable in water spotting either, but would like to hear more about this aspect. I could see how well water that had a low pH could contain higher TDS, because of the acidic affect on the geology that the water comes from, but I do not believe there is a correlation between pH and water spots


Los Angeles has a published TDS of 93ppm and I find this water does spot prolifically

What is considered the highest TDS that will not cause water spots?
Click to expand...

Never said it was entirely pH related. :) I was only saying that I know what my pH is and that it doesn't spot so terribly bad. (Keep track of the pH due to a 75 gallon fish tank.) ;)

What the minimum/maximum TDS figure is as it relates to spotting I have no idea.

I can say that hard water, lime rich, calcium rich, spots like a mofo. So yeah... my water is softer, and doesn't spot horribly. (At least as long as you get if off before it dries on it's own.)

I guess the real measure there would be what water can you just throw on a panel (or glass) and leave to dry in the sun? And how bad does that water (or any other) spot once dry?
 
I think you are using "soft" as a synonym for low TDS...right?


Water can be soft and have high TDS...right?
 
allenk4 said:
I think you are using "soft" as a synonym for low TDS...right?





Water can be soft and have high TDS...right?
Click to expand...


Yup. High NaCl low CaCo3 is an example.

That's the principle behind salt based water softeners. They exchange the two so your left with "salty" (but soft) water. Resin based systems bind all of the mineral content to the resin - so your left with just water without dissolved solutes.

The "salty" water spots are much less aggressive than Ca/Mg based water spots - and likely less susceptible to etching when catalyzed by the heat of the sun.
 
Feed back please
swanicyouth said:
Yup. High NaCl low CaCo3 is an example.

That's the principle behind salt based water softeners. They exchange the two so your left with "salty" (but soft) water. Resin based systems bind all of the mineral content to the resin - so your left with just water without dissolved solutes.

The "salty" water spots are much less aggressive than Ca/Mg based water spots - and likely less susceptible to etching when catalyzed by the heat of the sun.
Click to expand...

Good information

Thanks


I have seen that CR Spotless does NOT recommend using "softened" water with their units
 
allenk4 said:
Feed back please

Good information

Thanks


I have seen that CR Spotless does NOT recommend using "softened" water with their units
Click to expand...


I'm sure there is a reason - but I don't know what it is. Maybe the NaCl would use up the resin faster for whatever reason? Or, maybe the weaker single charged sodium ion binds less tightly to the resin, causing a lower inlet pressure to be required to get ion free water? Maybe too salty a water is bad for/corrodes some of the metal used in the system?
 
Lexi65 said:
Five minutes doesn't sound bad... Is that just the typical spray
mist. I have the sprayer from AGO Professional Mercury that sprays each time
Instead of just once it sprays twice...hard to explain.
Thanks. :buffing:
Click to expand...

Bump. :buffing:
 
swanicyouth said:
I'm sure there is a reason - but I don't know what it is. Maybe the NaCl would use up the resin faster for whatever reason? Or, maybe the weaker single charged sodium ion binds less tightly to the resin, causing a lower inlet pressure to be required to get ion free water? Maybe too salty a water is bad for/corrodes some of the metal used in the system?
Click to expand...

I don't remember any metal used in the CR Spotless, there may have been a metal ring on the interior but a majority is plastic, I had the DIC-20.

I ultimately returned mine to Costco, since they really don't care about how long you own items or if you have the box I got a full refund. I had it for about a year and similar to some people and say a pressure washer or Metro Vac, it was too much trouble. I got tired of lugging it out, the water never fully drains it out so you have to include that in the weight. Vegas has extremely high TDS and minerals in it and I never got to experience that final rinse leaving no spots. The built in meter always showed 000ppm so I can't really explain why.
 
af90 said:
Vegas has extremely high TDS and minerals in it and I never got to experience that final rinse leaving no spots. The built in meter always showed 000ppm so I can't really explain why.
Click to expand...

Is it possible that you were exceeding the gallons per minute (GPM) processing ability of the CR Spotless

I know they suggest using the "fan" setting on a hose end sprayer and not to exceed a certain GPM with a power washer (maybe 1.2 gpm?)
 
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