DIY: How To Build And Hang A Business Sign

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I decided to build my own sign post and hang my own business sign while document the process. Hopefully this will inspire others to do the same and top it. :dblthumb2:

I was going to put it all in a post but it turned out to be more picture heavy (50+ pictures) and in-depth than I originally planned. If I find time I'll edit this post and put it all in here.

Here is the guide: How To Build And Hang A Business Sign | Incredibly Detailed

Sign-Final-Cover.jpg


Any questions...ask away.
 
Great job. You even included steps 1&3!!! Those are probably the most overlooked steps.
 
Found some time. Here it is.

How To Build And Hang A Business Sign

I decided to add a business sign to my residence so clients had an easier time finding my location. I live on a well traveled road and figured this would also be an excellent cost effective way to advertise and let people passing by know that I run a detailing business from my home.

I am by no means a professional at making signs but figured this wouldn’t be too hard of a task. Hopefully this guide will help others in similar situations and will help people who are on the fence about doing it themselves gain the confidence by seeing how easy it really is.

I went with a 20” x 14” x .5” , PVC sign made by a local sign shop. It was much cheaper than metal (almost as durable) and ended up costing me less than $65 for the sign, which I thought was a great deal. The rest of the supplies for this project ran about $100. It’s possible to get them for less but I bought everything stainless steel I could so I wouldn’t have rust issues later on. I already had all the tools necessary to complete the project. It might be in your best interest to pay someone to put a sign in for you if you don’t have the majority of the tools, or if you do buy the tools think about it as an investment for future projects.

There are many ways to building and putting in a post but I thought this way was easy and didn’t involve ANY digging. Modify any of the supplies, tools and processes as you see fit. Again, I’m not a professional and you follow this guide at your own risk. I am not responsible for anything that happens whatsoever while you attempt to make a sign by following this guide.

Let’s Get Started:

Supplies:

(2) 4″ x 4″ x 8″ Lumber (Pressure Treated Optional)
30″ Speed Post (or similar)
4″ x 4″ Post Cap
Out-Door Semi-Gloss Paint
Stainless Steel Quick Links
Stainless Steel Anchor Shackles
Stainless Steel Eye Hooks
Lag Bolts (2″ – 3″ long)
Silicone Caulking
Wood Screws (2 1/2″ – 3″ long)
Shims
Wood Glue
Washers (Optional)
Spray Paint (Optional)

Tools:

Philips & Flat Head Screw Drivers
Electric Drill
Hammer
10-Pound Hammer
Wood Saw (Electric Makes It Easier)
Wood Chisel
Wood Rasp
Sand Paper
Rubber Mallet
Straight Edge
Measuring Tape
Level
Drill Bits (Sizes According To Screws Used)
Countersink Drill Bit
Pencil
Wrench & Sockets

Step 1: Check Zoning Regulations

Before you start anything make sure your property is zoned correctly to have a business and/or a sign. It’s going to be different for everyone. Your town/city’s website should have information on this or call your town/city’s planner.

Step 2: Sketch Blue Print

Sketch out your post and sign before you start cutting wood. Make sure you know the dimensions of all the pieces and gaps. It makes everything much easier and keeps you organized.

Blue-Print.jpg


Step 3: Check Utility Lines

I believe most utility lines are 5 feet underground but make sure you call 811 before you dig or start to put the sSpeed Post into the ground. Their website: 811 – Call Before You Dig.

Step 4: Find Spot For Post

Check your zoning regulations on the distance signs must be from the road and other structures. Mine was 5 feet, but I decided to put the post 14 feet off the road so visibility to exit the driveway was unchanged. If I had to do it again, I would put it around 11-12 feet as 14 feet back was overkill.

Road-Measurement.jpg


Mark the spot with some spray paint.

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Also check your line of sight from your car while trying to exit your driveway. Keep in mind customers will be coming out of your driveway frequently and you want a long sight line for people who are unfamiliar with the area.

Step 5: Drive Post Into The Ground

The best way to drive the Speed Post into the ground is using a 10-Pound Hammer and an old piece of 4″ x “4. I was surprised how easy this was and it only took a couple of minutes.

Speed-Post-1.jpg


Starting position.

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Check the level periodically to make it’s going in perfectly vertical.

Speed-Post-3.jpg


Almost half way. I had to move the Speed Post over because I hit a rock at this level before.

Speed-Post-4.jpg


Almost there.

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Final product and barely broke a sweat.

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View from above.

Step 6: Measure Notches For Post Intersection

Measure 3 1/2 inches for the notches on both the horizontal and vertical posts. The length on either side of the notch should already be figured out from your blue print. On the horizontal post I left 4 inches on one side and 26 inches on the other (Total length of 33 1/2 inches). On the vertical post I left 4 inches on one side and 52.5 inches on the other (Total length of 60 inches). The depth of the notches should be 1 3/4 inches.

Lumber-Measurement.jpg


Length: 3 1/2 inches. Depth: 1 3/4 inches.

Step 7: Cut Notches Out of Posts

Use a wood saw to cut the two ends of the notch. Then cut several times between the end points. Use a chisel to remove the pieces of wood between the end points.

Saw-Cutting.jpg


Saw and setup used to cut the notches.

All-Cuts.jpg


All the cuts made prior to chiseling.

Chisle.jpg


Wood chisel used.

Chisle-Closeup.jpg


Make sure the flat part of the chisel is facing the flat end of the notch.

Chisle-3.jpg


Drive the chisel through with the hammer.

Chisle-4.jpg


After the first round.

Chisle-5.jpg


All of the cuts have been cleared.

Chisle-6-Cleaned-Out.jpg


Use the chisel to clear out any ridges.

Step 8: Test Fitment & Refine Notches

After cutting and chiseling both notches test the fitment of the two posts. If you measured correctly and made the proper cuts they will fit nice and snug. Be careful when removing the posts after the test fitment, you don’t want them to twist or have too much force applied to the shorter (weaker) end and snap the post.

Test-Fitment-1.jpg


Fits perfectly but the posts need to sit deeper.

Once you’ve freed the posts after the test fitment use a wood rasp to make adjustments where necessary to achieve better fitment. I only needed to increase the depth slightly on both posts to achieve the fit I desired.

Rasp-1.jpg


Nice and level after rasping. You can also sand this if you want to get crazy, but it’s not necessary.

Do one more test fitment and if everything checks out you are almost ready to glue and join the posts together.

Step 9: Angle Horizontal Arm End

I decided to cut the end of my horizontal post at a 60 degree angle for aesthetic reasons. Make sure when doing this you measure the length of your total horizontal post from the top of the post not the bottom.

Horizontal-Post-Angle.jpg


The edge of the wood was very sharp after cutting so I decided to cut it off about an inch.

Horizontal-Post-Angle-Tip-Cut.jpg


Horizontal post finished and ready for the next step.

Step 10: Apply Wood Glue To Notches

Attachment-Supplies.jpg


Supplies for the next couple of steps.

Apply the wood glue to both notches on both the vertical and horizontal surfaces inside the notch. Don’t go crazy with the glue. The more you use the more you’ll be cleaning up later.

Glue-Before.jpg


Clean, smooth notches ready for glue.

Glue-Before-2.jpg


Glue.

Glue-Before-3.jpg


Glue.

Glue-Before-4.jpg


And more glue.

Glue-Before-5.jpg


Use a rubber mallet so you don’t damage the wood while fully joining the two posts.

Step 11: Drill & Screw Posts Together

Mark two spots to drill and place screws on both posts. Make sure you use opposite diagonals for each post.

Screw-Markings.jpg


Eye balled two good places to drill.

Screw-Drilling.jpg


Drilling. Use a bit complimentary to the size of your screws.

Screw-Countersink-Drilling.jpg


It’s best to countersink the screws.

Screw-Hole-Results.jpg


Both holes drilled. Ready for screws.

Screwing-1.jpg


Electric Drill and then I used a hand screw drivers to tighten them down all the way.

Screwing-2-Complete.jpg


Final product. Now move on to the other side, drilling on the opposite diagonal.

Step 12: Drill Holes For Eye Hooks

Measure and then drill the holes for your eye hooks or other choice of hardware in the bottom of the horizontal post.

Eye-Hook-Holes.jpg


Holes drilled. Ready for eye hooks.

Eye-Hook-Screw-Driver-Tip.jpg


You can use a screw driver to easily screw in the eye hooks.

Eye-Hook-Complete.jpg


Both eye hooks placed and ready for the sign to be hung.

Step 13: Drill Holes For Sign Hardware

Drill the holes for your sign. Depending on the thickness of your sign and the material you’ll either drill down into the sign from the top or from the side (like I had to do).

Sign-Holes.jpg


Holes drilled. If you place a piece of wood under the sign you can drill straight through without worrying about the back side of the hole getting messed up. If you don’t have a piece of wood just drill until the tip of the bit goes out the back side and then flip the sign over and drill back so you have a clean hole on both sides.

Step 14: Test Fitment & Level

Now the exciting part. Take your sign out and see how it fits and looks. This is where you can check the initial level of the post.

Step 15: Shim, Level & Screw Post To Speed Post

Shim the post to get it perfectly level. Drill the holes for the lag bolts. Screw in the lag bolts and tighten everything up.

Post-Shim-1.jpg


Only needed one shim to level the post.

Post-Over-Torque-Bolt.jpg


The results of over torqueing a lag bolt.

Post-Shim-2.jpg


Score the shim with a knife and break it off.

Double check to make sure everything is level and no more adjustments are needed.

final-level-check.jpg


Level Check.

final-level-check-closeup.jpg


Perfectly Level. Ready to be painted.

test-fitment-sign-1.jpg


I was very happy with the results.

test-fitment-sign-2-hardware.jpg


Close up of hardware.

test-fitment-sign-2-hardware-2.jpg


Another angle.

Step 16: Paint or Stain Post

I chose semi-gloss paint because it’s more durable and easier to clean than the other options. I ended up doing 3 coats with a white paint + primer mix by Valspar.

Paint-Second-Coat.jpg


Three coats of paint later.

Step 17: Attach Post Cap

After the paint has dried use silicone caulking to attach the post cap. I just ran a bead around the inside of the edge of the cap and stuck it on. Hold it down for about a minute to make sure everything sticks.

Sign-Final-Closeup.jpg


Cap Installed.

Step 18: Add Sign To Post & Level

After the paint has dried attach your sign. Check the level and adjust the eye hooks to make it perfectly level.

Sign-Final-Cover.jpg


Final product.
 
Very nice. That sign is incredibly detailed !!! Great job.
 
Very nice sign The installation matches your name. This reminds me I need to put up a new house sign.
 
Really done a nice job there. Nol doubt that sign is incredible. The display you present for us is inspiring and very professional. Sure this idea will be referenced long into the future.
 
It Does look great and making it yourself makes you feel good.
For others out there, if you dont want to do all the cutting and chopping,, buy a mailbox kit. the wood comes pre-cutt, sometimes put together and you just sink it. , (that post mount is cool I had not seen that before.) and hang your sign the same way as shown here.you may need to make the angle support shorter, but it would work I think.
 
Mine isn't quite as cool as Scott's, but it works. : )

I just built this btw. . .after I saw it on his FB page.
 
Mine isn't quite as cool as Scott's, but it works. : )

I just built this btw. . .after I saw it on his FB page.

Great job. How large is your sign and how high off the ground is it?

Does the black really stick out when driving by?

I've been thinking about painting my post black but I'm scared it wouldn't stand out much.

It Does look great and making it yourself makes you feel good.
For others out there, if you dont want to do all the cutting and chopping,, buy a mailbox kit. the wood comes pre-cutt, sometimes put together and you just sink it. , (that post mount is cool I had not seen that before.) and hang your sign the same way as shown here.you may need to make the angle support shorter, but it would work I think.

That is a good idea. The only issue with this is having the sign so close to the ground. Might need to get some type of lumber for the bottom to get it up to eye level when people are driving by.

Awesome article Scott.


Not only have you mastered the art and craft of car detailing you're also turning into a very good writer.


Like his other example you just posted....


Cleaning Exhaust Tips: It’s All In The Details



:)

Thanks Mike, I appreciate it.
 
The main post is 5' 6" not counting the topper. The sign is 24" x 18"
The black with white lettering seems to stand out nicely. I actually had the vinyl sign printed and I glued it to a heavy piece of plywood. I attached the chain to the plywood. It'll built from treated lumber so I shouldn't have to do anything to the wood for a couple years. . .may stain it at some point.

I would leave your sign how it is. It looks nice. I don't think you could improve it.
 
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