DLux Tips

MarkD51 said:
When I used it on all of my Tahoe's Plastic Trim, I never touched it after application. All of it came out great, looked very even in appearance.

With this application method, you then must resist the urge of touching the plastic trim for a good hour or so, until it is totally dry.

After properly-fully cleaning trim to be coated, it is helpful and wise to mask off all trim being coated. That's what I did.

I had no problems with either textured, or smooth trim, but I have read from others that streaking can possibly occur on smooth trim, and thus one might need to smooth the product shortly after application?
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Did you apply before or after full detail on car?
 
I was just trying to think this process through.

Does this sound good for including the trim process in general?

I would clean and clay it with, or after the wash. If you clean/scrub after your polish step you may accidentally mar the paint and you have to dry it again. Edit: may remove your LSP if not careful too in the cleaning process if you wait till the end.

Blow all the water out everywhere possible if you can.

Tape off unpainted plastic trim where you don't want polish to get or touch.

Polish.

Pull tape and polish areas under tape by hand.

Wax.

Wipe down trim with alcohol to remove any wax or polishing oils/residue.

If needed, tape off paint surrounding the trim.

Then apply trim coating.
 
I think if you have the time it would be nice to do a wash, trim cleaning, and coating days before doing a polish. ?
 
I just completed coating all 4 rims and the front honeycomb grill on my MK 7 GTI in low 80 degree temps with about 70% humidity. With those temps and humidity I let it sit no longer than 5 to 8 mins. I did use the suede cloths to gently wipe down the high spots. No problem. I was distracted with a cell call on the last wheel and it sat for about 20 mins and it took a lot of effort to level in spots. My take on it is that it shouldn't sit that long to flash.
 
When I used DLUX on textured trim, I try to apply and walk away. Otherwise I'm left with tons of lint from the large suede.

Anyone else have this problem?
 
spewking said:
Did you apply before or after full detail on car?
Click to expand...

At the time, I applied to all plastic trim after complete wash, Iron-X Decon, Clay, a full 2 step correction with WG TSR and WG Finishing Glaze with the PC DA, WGDGPS 3.0.

I then did the coating on all the Plastic Trim the next day (except wiper cowl) while I was nice and fresh, the vehicle was covered overnight with a Covercraft Cover..

Just simply had to then wipe all trim that was going to get the DLX with a MF Towel. I did mask critical trim, such as all the rubber-plastic around all windows, there was nothing that wasn't coated except the metal black powder coated roof rack. (That I did a year later with CQ UK)

The DLX was truly the icing on the cake. Everything, except the Wiper Cowl looked brand new, and glowed. The next week I yanked entire Cowl and did it as well.

Being a finned Cowl, and about 6 feet of it in 3 pieces, this was going to be a real PITA by MF Suede Applicator, and pretty much had no choice but to dribble DLX as I went onto the part, then spread with a soft 1/2" Wide Artist's Brush.

Yep, I went through a lot of extra DLX that way, but was sure a lot simpler-easier on me doing it this way. Had the entire Cowl coated in about 10 minutes or so, then didn't touch it, let the product dry fully overnight, the next day I re-installed it on the truck.

The cowl is the hardest thing to keep nice on this truck because of the dumb raised fins they put on it.
 
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