Do I have burnishing products?

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washnwax

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Hey Geeks -

I want to jewel my paint. It's been swirl/scratch corrected last year and maintained by me very well. I want to raise the level of gloss on the BMW's black sapphire metallic paint and really get the flakes popping. Hybrid 7 showed me some signs of how POP looks, as it really makes the flakes appear in the sun. Maybe I'm wasting my time with the buffer and chems and should stick to Hybrid 7?

Here are some pics, and please note - I washed it yesterday and let it air dry (hence water spots) and thought that I would be getting those water spots out with clay and light polish/burnishing.

Give me some ideas of the steps and products (in the pic) and pads you guys would use to clean/burnish. I have 5.5 LC CCS pads in Y,LO,W,Blk,Blue, and have the flex 3401 and PC 7424xp.

The wax under the WGFG is CG Pete's 53.



Thanks!
 
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It doesn't look like there is defects per se, but it looks like there is some water spotting. You will want to remove that, the only way to know how is to do a test spot.

What machine do you have?

I really noticed Menzerna SF4500 did a great job of bringing up the gloss and flake on my BSM BMW. Really, any fine finishing polish will work. You need to use finishing pads as well. Optimum Finishing polish is a bit faster and easier to use.

I would:

1. wash
2. Iron X ->clay
3. test spot to see if finishing polish would remove water spots. If so, complete the vehicle. If not, you will need something more aggressive.

Just an FYI, never let hose or tap water air dry on your car, regardless if your planning to polish or clay after
 
swanicyouth said:
Just an FYI, never let hose or tap water air dry on your car, regardless if your planning to polish or clay after
Click to expand...

I washed it yesterday and let it air dry (hence water spots) and thought that I would be getting those water spots out with clay and light polish/burnishing.

To your point, I would have dried it if I knew I wasn't going to clay/buff, but good reminder! :xyxthumbs:
 
washnwax said:
I washed it yesterday and let it air dry (hence water spots) and thought that I would be getting those water spots out with clay and light polish/burnishing.

To your point, I would have dried it if I knew I wasn't going to clay/buff, but good reminder! :xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

What I was trying to say is those water spots can be more difficult to remove than one expects. But, if its only been a day it shouldn't be too bad.

But, back to your original question, to really make BSM look nice you need to use a fine finishing polish on a finishing pad. Likely, that would remove the water spots as well.
 
swanicyouth said:
those water spots can be more difficult to remove .

But, back to your original question, to really make BSM look nice you need to use a fine finishing polish on a finishing pad. Likely, that would remove the water spots as well.
Click to expand...

So far, I've clayed the half of the hood I want to test, (PIC) and polished with P21S cleaner on a white pad and 3401 VRG (PIC). The water spots came out :xyxthumbs:with relative ease with the product/pad/buffer selection (see pic). I don't see any reason to try a different combo since the 1st one provided the spot removal and "burnish prep" results I wanted. So, now that I've got spot removal and paint prep figured out, will this same P21S work to burnish? It does say it's "Gloss Enhancing" so does that mean yes, it will jewel/burnish? What's that process? Fast or slow OPM? Fast or slow movement? Heavy or light pressure? Recommended pad? I do not have a rotary as mentioned in the opener, just a 3401 and a 7424xp and pad colors mentioned as well.

After burnishing, do I wax AND THEN hit it with a wash and then V07????

Thanks!!!
 
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washnwax said:
Give me some ideas of the steps and products (in the pic) and pads you guys would use to clean/burnish. I have 5.5 LC CCS pads in Y,LO,W,Blk,Blue, and have the flex 3401 and PC 7424xp.

The wax under the WGFG is CG Pete's 53.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Looks like I'm finding my own answers. Enjoy :D

Per http://www.autopiaforums.com/Todd-Helme/polish-chart.jpg, I believe my answer is this: Use the WG FG first (white or black pad?) , THEN the P21S to burnish/jewel (black or blue pad???)....

I will try the WG FG white pad, then P21s black pad combo and see what happens.
 
washnwax said:
It's been swirl/scratch corrected last year and maintained by me very well.

I washed it yesterday and let it air dry (hence water spots) and thought that I would be getting those water spots out with clay and light polish/burnishing.
Click to expand...
At first...I thought there was a contradiction in the above information.

washnwax said:
So far, I've clayed the half of the hood I want to test, and polished with P21S cleaner on a white pad and 3401 VRG .
The water spots came out :xyxthumbs:with relative ease with the product/pad/buffer selection.
Click to expand...
^^^That's Great...^^^
However a person is not always so lucky!!

washnwax said:
Looks like I'm finding my own answers...

Thanks to the power of search, I found http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/58123-can-you-jewel-flex-3401-a-2.html

And will close this thread as a result. Well, maybe I can post some before and after pics of the process, but closing out Q/A as I believe I found what I was looking for.
:close1:
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You have the power to close a thread? Why that's...That's AWESOME!!

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
At first...I thought there was a contradiction in the above information.


^^^That's Great...^^^
However a person is not always so lucky!!


You have the power to close a thread? Why that's...That's AWESOME!!

Bob
Click to expand...

Bob,

You cracks me up!!!!!! :laughing:
 
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