Few things here:
People are recommending a wide assortment of pads & stock of pads for a reason: to properly polish a vehicle, you need several pads of every color (cutting/polishing capability).
You need some experience with your PC long before you touch a paying customers car. Some people have the hand of god with machines and their learning curve is minimal, but your first dark vehicle will be a huge success or failure, followed up by the next dark vehicle throwing you for a gigantic loop and it will make you question your very existence on this planet. I have years and years of experience and occasionally I am left scratching my head watching time fly on the clock as I am losing profits trying to sort out a finicky paint.
In a perfect world for a uniform cut & polish, it's ideal to have a fresh pad for each panel of the car. On my production details, I will often get through a car with 2-3 pads of each phase (example, 3 orange, 3 white & not including a wax/glaze pad). On my high end details to give consistent results I will use a fresh pad for each panel, I don't like to stop and clean/dry pads.
I would practice a bit on your personal vehicles, maybe find some trusting family members too and get some experience on their vehicles. Doing cleaning details is fine and great, but once you get into the world of correction you are entering a whole new ball game.
There has been a lot of advice... but THIS...
PREACH, BROTHER... PREACH
:applause::applause::applause::applause::applause::applause::applause::applause::applause::applause:
I simply
can -
not -
EVER say it loud, or strong enough...
DO -
NOT -
EVER -
EVER -
EVER take a buffer to a paying customers vehicles(s) until you've polished every one you own several times, as well as any of your other family members, to various degrees, JUST to get a handle on what, where, when, HOW to obtain the best results with different paint systems, (and colors).
Why have half a dozen cutting pads?
Because you need to run them clean, and
NOT run them hot.
Try buffing an entire vehicle with a single pad and likely before you get the hood finished the pad will be at 50% ability from where it started. You'll overheat your pads, overheat your backing plate, and very likely damage BOTH. Not to mention the damage to the (paying) customers vehicles.
You can get away with 3~4 polishing pads, but
DO NOT skimp on cutting pads.
You can also get away with compounding an entire vehicle with 2~3 Meguiar's Microfiber Correction Pads (
which is a lot less than with foam). BUT.... (
and this is CRITICAL) you
ABSOLUTELY MUST USE AIR TO CLEAN MICROFIBER PADS!!!!! You'll need to clean the pad after each section pass. That'll require an air compressor, and a air nozzle. Blow from the outside in, inside out. Then reverse the spinning direction, inside out, outside in. Do this 2~3 times, which takes but a minute at best. This'll not only clean the pad(s) but cool them as well.
Buckets, get lots and lots of buckets, (as well as grit guards)! NEVER use your soap or rinse bucket for a wheel bucket. Never use your trash bucket, or your microfiber bucket, for anything BUT those uses.
Brushes, get brushes. Get the Wheel Woolies, (at least the two biggest ones). Get the two Daytona brushes. Get the Mothers 3 piece brush set. And also... get at least one 1" boars hair brush for cleaning tight areas in wheels (it's plastic) and another one for the exterior, (either plastic or wood... plastic one takes water easier). Wouldn't hurt to have another one (wood) for the interior.
Meguiar's has EVERYTHING you need for chemicals by the gallon. Forget ONR, it's just not cost effective. Instead... D114 which can do windows, rinseless (at up to 256:1) and even mixed as a panel wipe (by using a 192:1 to 256:1 dilution and using an online calculator for adding alcohol up to 30% for making a GREAT panel wipe!
Meguiar's Hyperwash is an AMAZING shampoo that can provide TONS of suds, (
even more when used with a foam cannon). Also... Duragloss 901 (902 in the gallon size) is a great shampoo, slick as well. CG makes a few, but the only ones I use are Mr. Pink and Honeydew, period.
Meguiar's Non-Acid Wheel Cleaner as well as Wheel Brightener are a must. (
Make SURE to get an acid rated sprayer for the Wheel Brightener or after your first use... it'll be useless next time you pick it up.)
Meguiar's D120 Glass cleaner... works great, doesn't streak, PLUS you can add alcohol to it.
Get an All Purpose Cleaner you like, then mix it at AT LEAST 2 different dilutions (if not three). Meguiar's is great, Duragloss is as well.
Meguiar's Hyper Dressing... don't even THINK of leaving the house without it! This is another one that you can dilute 2~3 different ways to tailor your shine for different areas.
Someone mentioned a degreaser. Meguiar's has one for only $16.99 that is great.
You'll need a spray wax, Meguiar's D156 Synthetic X-press Spray Wax is a great product. Many swear by it, I keep it handy for sure. Full disclosure.... I've become seriously, I mean SERIOUSLY spoiled by Duragloss Aquawax instead. I keep both... but more often than not I'll use Aquawax. Think I've bought it 3:1 over 156 these last couple years. It smells great, looks great, and is SUPER slick! :dblthumb2:
Speaking of Duragloss... You'll LOVE Fast Clean & Shine for a QD spray.
Better yet... mix FC&S 75/25 (or 3:1) with Aquawax for one OUTSTANDING QD, (or after wash) wipe down spray. :dblthumb2:
Just can't say enough good things about both Aquawax and Fast Clean & Shine.
If you're planning on doing any production type detailing/buffing, and want a proven, well respected, excellent performing AIO... Meguiar's D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream will both correct as well as leave a synthetic wax/sealant afterwards. Do that, then hit it with a quick spray of 156 or Aquawax (951, or 952 in the gallon size) and you'll have 6 weeks of protection easy. :xyxthumbs:
Now of course with all these gallons of chemicals, and mixing them to different dilutions for various uses, you need at a MINIMUM... something like 2 dozen spray bottles. (
Remember the acid rated sprayer for the wheel brightener.) You can pick up Meguiar's pre-labeled spray bottles for many of their products here at Autogeek. For the money... you WILL NOT find a better bottle, better sprayer, at a better price.

For the products that don't have pre-printed labels, they have generic ones that you can print with a magic marker on the label and it'll not rub off.
I know you mentioned you have "lots" of microfiber towels. Hopefully that means you have at least 3~4 dozen dual-nap (
long on one side, short on the other) towels like the Gold Plush Jr's. My favorite place (in San Diego) is running 15% off right now, and theirs are the same thing. If you're doing it as a 'side' business. Just go ahead and buy a case of 180. You'll never regret it, and once you are buying wholesale... the price drops down to around a buck a towel!!!!

:dblthumb2: (
My last ones were 91¢ each plus FedEx shipping, which sadly added 22¢ each to them, but still... $1.13 delivered to my door and I'm not complaining. That was however over a year ago, and they've gone up a bit, but I'm thinking you can still find them around $1.25 plus shipping.) Can't mention the name of the seller here 'openly'... but literally everybody knows who it is.
I'd also get at least a couple dozen of Ian's 530 GSM towels as they are the best ones of that type construction in the 500~600 GSM range I've seen. They are very durable, extremely soft, can do rinseless washes, compound and polish removal, LSP wipes.... and can also work as drying towels.

rops:
Anything less than the 365's however are NOT paint quality towels. The "gold" towels
(from that membership store with "cost" in it's name) that come 36 to a pack are nice for interiors, wheels, tail pipes and such, and are cheap enough to just throw them away at what... under $14 a package????

They are not in any way a competing product to even the cheapest towels that you'd find here at Autogeek, but they are a great tool to have in your arsenal.
