Do you have to clay the car 100% before paint correction?

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Steadfast detailing

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So let me expand, do the surfaces have to be completely clayed 100% smooth as glass, not a speck of contaminant left? Or will a 90% clayed surface (only has very minimal roughness when doing the bag test) be sufficient for using a DA polisher?

Hopefully you can understand my exaggeration.

Thanks.
 
I would do the best I possibly could to get it 100% decontaminated. The better the prep the better the results I feel.
 
I haven't found much difference or any in results when comparing a surface that's been 100% clayed to one that's 90%.

What I have found is that to get that last 10% of perfection, I can be claying twice as long to get there. From a business point of view, if I can retain the same level of results whilst being more efficient then I will.
 
If u can still feel contaminants you didn't do a good enough job imo. I have switched from using clay to nanoskin pads with a DA so time isn't an issue anymore.
 
Hence my exaggeration about feeling contaminants.

Do you use the nanoskin pads for all claying? or only for situations where you know you have to do paint correction afterwards?
 
If the entire car needs to be clayed then chances are there is metal material especially down low that you are feeling. In this case even if you clay you are simply sheering off the metal particles. On a dark car you would never know, but the metal rusts and causes damage to the paint.

If the car is really neglected a full decon is advised prior to any paint corrections.
 
Steadfast detailing said:
So let me expand, do the surfaces have to be completely clayed 100% smooth as glass, not a speck of contaminant left? Or will a 90% clayed surface (only has very minimal roughness when doing the bag test) be sufficient for using a DA polisher?

Hopefully you can understand my exaggeration.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Do they have to be - NO.... there are no 'rules' that you have to follow.... only best practice..... and what is best practice for you on that specific car, may not be the same as on the next car...or for the next person.

It all comes down to what you are trying to achieve and what your objectives are and if you are being adequately compensated for your time...

If you are trying to make the car as close to perfect as possible then you are more likely to spend the extra time removing every last spec of contamination...(this is generally the approach I take) whereas if you are running a business to make money, 80% or 90% on a daily driver may be 'acceptably good'.
 
Clay is probably one of the most important steps. you're removing stuff the wash couldn't. and for the paint correction to work 100%, it needs 100% contact with the paint. the most stuff in it's way that you failed to remove with the clay process, the less it will work.

I use nanoskin wass mits for all of the car now. clay bar is yesterday technology. the fine one usually does a great job. I use medium one for the front and back bumpers where there is assault of bugs and carbon desposits on back bumper. I haven't seen it mar any of my cars yet.
 
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