Do you have to drain it oil?

Regardless of how much is "added" to an engine that consumes oil between oil change intervals, it's simply prudent -- and relatively cheap insurance -- to nevertheless change at or before the recommended intervals, and to change the filter at the same time. Most car brands also have specs that an oil must meet in order to be labeled with that brand's specification. Check your owners manual for the recommended grade, viscosity and spec, and find an oil that meets those on the shelves of any store. Like radiator fluid, just because it's the right viscosity doesn't mean it's the right oil. Of course, if you don't give a whit about your investment in the car, ignore all this. Personally, I only use Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Motul, Total or LubriMoly full synthetics in my European cars, and Syntec Edge or similar (spec-meeting) synthetics in our older non-European cars. I tend to use filters made by Champion Labs (K&N, Bosch, PureONE or Mobil 1) but have also used cheaper ones on the older, less-driven Asian cars.

Many (most?) newer cars have on-board oil minders that take many factors into consideration and display a countdown to the next recommended change, though some factors (that equate to "severe service") should necessitate that the change be done before that countdown reaches zero. In a normal dusty summer in hot, slow traffic doing my fairly short commute, I don't let the countdown get much past 2000 km (~1200 miles) to go. Its baseline is 8000 km (5000 miles) but in mild weather on long trips I've seen the countdown adjust itself as much as 2000 km longer than the odometer reads.

FWIW I prefer to use an air-powered Mity Vac vacuum fluid pump to get out the old oil in all our cars, even though only the smart lacks a drain plug. You'll hear arguments pro and con, but at the end of the day it's easier, quicker and less messy (have you been inside the service bays at a German car dealership, where they drain oil almost exclusively with vac pumps? Cleaner than most hospitals!), and on at least two of my cars I get measurably more of the old oil out with the sucker than by draining.
 
GR8 post SameGuy,

Glad you mentioned AMSoil, best "tested" oil, bar none. Viscosity Index, Flash Point, many other, testing methods AMSOIL is wonderful.

see this: Fil's Auto Corner: Oil Facts v1.2

Also see this: Top Tier Gasoline

Spend a little time reading this site & never use anything but top tier gasoline..

This (TOP TIER GASOLINE), was a industry collaboration, of car mfg's (Audi among-st others) was established, to a older car problem, crankcase sludge formation, which ruined engines, some were under warranty. They found a decreasing amount of gasoline detergents being added, which led to sludge formation. Now to earn top tier status, (proudly displayed at the pump), all flavors of gasoline, from a gasoline seller, must comply to "TOP TIER" standards.

Note the collaboration of car mfg's shows this was a widespread problem, & the solution (TOP TIER) standards, does not have to do with vehicle owner, it's more about auto makers limiting liability. My Audi owners manual recommends "TOP TIER" gasoline only. Should I develop a sludged, up motor, they could decline warranty work, as I did not meet there written recommendations.

Be sure to see the list of gasoline peddlers who meet current top tier requirements.

NOTE: Perhaps as recently as 5yrs. ago Exxon/Mobil was not considered TOP TIER, by the consortium of car mfg's. It's now on the list.

Do not use cheap gasoline, stick with Top Tier!!!!!!!!!!
 
I know next to nothing about how cars run, but I know how to change my oil. My girlfriend says when she changes her oil she just pours it in and doesn't drain it. She said her oil is low and needed a funnel to just pour it in. That's not good is it?

Her car engine is on borrowed time.
 
Christmas is right around the corner:

A.
•Change out the PVC valve.
•Clean the oil out of intake.

B.
•Jack-up the steering wheel.
•Slide a different car under it.


Bob
 
NEVER HIT THE STARTER WITH YOUR CELL PHONE :laughing:

Nah you can't hurt the starter heck it's needing to be replaced anyways. The hammer taps help set the spring loaded (worn) brushes set against the armature. Like posted above it works only for awhile... beats waiting on and forking out for a wrecker, then the price of the starter motor too.

Yep, the starter is crap anyway, but 99% of the time it will start one more time after a good wrap with a hammer.
 
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