Does Duragloss mute Metal Flake?

G

geoguy

New member
Joined
Mar 6, 2014
Messages
55
Reaction score
0
Hey AG'ers!

A quick question about Duragloss. Does DG105, DG111, or AW mute metal flake paint?

Thanks!

Geoguy
 
geoguy said:
Hey AG'ers!

A quick question about Duragloss. Does DG105, DG111, or AW mute metal flake paint?

Thanks!

Geoguy
Click to expand...
IMO: Probably not...Depending if the following conditions for your vehicle's (CC) paint have been met:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...metallic-flake-pop-popping-versus-muting.html

From the above thread (good read!!):
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Pop Definition
By the word "pop", people mean make the pretty, reflective shiny flakes in the basecoat easy to see through the clear coat.
Because the majority of all cars with a metallic paint job have a clear coat over them, there's no way to physically affect the actual metallic flakes under the clear layer of paint. So to get the metallic flake to POP you want to do two thing, the first is the most important.

Maximize the clarity of the clear coat
Maximize the smoothness of the clear coat
Click to expand...

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Popping versus Muting
Kind of the bigger point of this thread is that it's not the wax, sealant or coating that makes metallic flake pop, it's getting the clear coat clear.

I see forum members always talking about how some waxes make the flake pop while other waxes make the mute the flake but if you want the flake to pop you first have to start with being able to see it.

Seeing it comes down to making the clear layer of paint as clear as possible.

Then as long as you use ANY quality wax, sealant or coating, your LSP should amplify the clarity results of your polishing work.
Click to expand...

Bob
 
I've only used their new coating and it did not suppress the pearls or metallic.
 
Awesome! Thanks for the help guys! I definitely need to have the paint in the best possible condition before any LSP!

This forum is definitely a gold mine of info! :dblthumb2:

Geoguy
 
geoguy said:
Awesome! Thanks for the help guys! I definitely need to have the paint in the best possible condition before any LSP!

This forum is definitely a gold mine of info! :dblthumb2:

Geoguy
Click to expand...

Geoguy...if you want your paint to look its best, including having the metallic jump right off the surface, then you definitely want to precede the sealant with DG 501. If you have a DA, use a medium cut pad (I like Buff & Shine white). If you mix a small amount of 501 to DG 601 at a 4:1 ratio, you will get incredible results AND be able to top it immediately. You can even do a 2nd coat of 501/601 before using the sealant. The 501 is so strong, the first coat will clean it and the 2nd will give you great protection. The 105 or 111 on top (mix it too-same way) will give you very strong protection indeed.
 
richy said:
Geoguy...if you want your paint to look its best, including having the metallic jump right off the surface, then you definitely want to precede the sealant with DG 501. If you have a DA, use a medium cut pad (I like Buff & Shine white). If you mix a small amount of 501 to DG 601 at a 4:1 ratio, you will get incredible results AND be able to top it immediately. You can even do a 2nd coat of 501/601 before using the sealant. The 501 is so strong, the first coat will clean it and the 2nd will give you great protection. The 105 or 111 on top (mix it too-same way) will give you very strong protection indeed.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the good info Richy! I have been researching 501 a lot. How much correcting ability does 501 have? The reason I ask is that I am prepping to do my first full detail on my black 2008 Subaru which has marring, light scratches and RIDS (not through the CC) from being a DD and hauler of kids and dogs. I currently have Optimum polish II and finish polish as I was worried about micro-marring on the soft paint. I also have a HF DA and black and white LC CCS pads for a 1 or 2 step process. I never really thought about an AIO having as much correction ability as a stand alone compound/polish, but what do I know, I'm just a newb talking to the experts!

Thanks!

Geoguy
 
geoguy said:
Thanks for the good info Richy! I have been researching 501 a lot. How much correcting ability does 501 have? The reason I ask is that I am prepping to do my first full detail on my black 2008 Subaru which has marring, light scratches and RIDS (not through the CC) from being a DD and hauler of kids and dogs. I currently have Optimum polish II and finish polish as I was worried about micro-marring on the soft paint. I also have a HF DA and black and white LC CCS pads for a 1 or 2 step process. I never really thought about an AIO having as much correction ability as a stand alone compound/polish, but what do I know, I'm just a newb talking to the experts!

Thanks!

Geoguy
Click to expand...


Subaru paint is soft I believe (I have yet to do one) so either of those polishes with a soft to medium pad should do the trick. I never rely on 501 to correct, only to clean.


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top