Door handle touch-up paint, fixing with XC3401

emilkacp

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Hello,

I just ordered the XC3401 with the concours package and a 4inch adapter. Mom recently bought a 2014 rx350 and I cannot believe we missed the touch-up on the driver door handle. Of course after the fact the dealer said to get the handle perfect will be $250. Can a noobie like myself get this done?

View attachment 50983

Thanks!
Emil
 
Looks iffy but you may be able to make it look a lot better..Just becareful plastic with excessive heat gives no warning and the paint will melt.
 
Looks like you can make it much better but I would do it by hand with a foam applicator. The area looks too small to get to with a 4 inch pad. Just start out with some finishing polish and see how that works. Try long even strokes, don't try to rub in one spot. You can burn through clear coat polishing by hand!
 
I did buy a pack of ccs euro foam applicators in white, orange, red. Should I use the white applicator and also tackle the slight scratches under the handle with the white? Appreciate your feedback!
 
Hello,

I just ordered the XC3401 with the concours package and a 4inch adapter.

Mom recently bought a 2014 rx350 and I cannot believe we missed the touch-up on the driver door handle.

Of course after the fact the dealer said to get the handle perfect will be $250. Can a noobie like myself get this done?


Here's your picture. I downloaded it and then turned it sideways and then uploaded it so it could be "inserted" for easier viewing.


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Those defects look like fairly deep scratches. If you have never seen this article on just how thin the paint is on you new car, here it is...


Mike Phillips said:
Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips


The majority of cars being manufactured today and starting since the 1980's use what's called a basecoat/clearcoat paint system. With this system, a clear layer of paint is sprayed over the top of the basecoat which is also the color coat or the layer of paint that has pigment in it. If the car has a metallic finish then the metallic flakes are also in the basecoat.

The basecoat doesn't offer any gloss or shine and in fact it's dull or matte looking after it's sprayed. The basecoat gets it's gloss, shine, depth and reflectivity by the spraying of the clearcoat layer of paint over the top of it. This is why if a person removes too much clearcoat when buffing and they expose the basecoat it will appear to be a dull round or oval spot on a body panel. The part of the paint system that adds beauty has been removed revealing the dull or matte basecoat layer of paint.



Just how thin is the clear layer of paint on a factory paint job?

The factory clearcoat on a new or modern car measures approximately 2 mils thin.

The average post-it not is around 3 mils thin.

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What does this mean?

This means the factory clearcoat on a new or modern car is thinner than a post-it note.

The next time you have a post-it note in front of you, feel a single post-it note between your fingers. Like this...

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This experience will drive home the point as to just how thin the clear layer of paint is on modern car with a factory paint job.

It should also drive home the importance of using the least aggressive pad, product and even tools to get the job done.

When I say, get the job done, the context of this usually means someone is buffing out a car to remove paint defects like swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation to make the paint and thus the car look better.

By using the least aggressive products you "get the job done" while leaving the most paint on the car to it will last over the mechanical service life of the car.

If you're working on your own cars and you're reading this you're already ahead of the game by reading the AGO forum and probably being a member so you can ask questions and get help.

If you're working on customer's cars take a professional approach as a service to your customers.


If you're reading this and you're going to do the work yourself or hire a detailer then do some research and make sure you hire a detailer that knows this type of stuff because the factory clearcoat on your car is thin.


:)



So before you start - find a post-it note and feel how thin it is and the clear layer of paint on the door handle is thinner than the post-it note.

Let that sink in and then move cautiously or you will turn a mole hill into a mountain.


:)
 
Looks iffy but you may be able to make it look a lot better..

Just becareful plastic with excessive heat gives no warning and the paint will melt.

The above by Jeff is VERY GOOD ADVICE.

Plastic components don't dissipate heat as fast as metal components. When you machine buff a small area like the top of this door handly you will create a LOT of heat very FAST and it only takes seconds to heat up the clear paint and either TWIST it or BURN THROUGH IT even with an orbital.

I would tackle these scratches by hand.

After hand rubbing you can lightly buzz a foam polishing pad over the top surface to shmoo it over and give it an even, high gloss appearance and then the rest of the life of the car be careful with this area.

:)
 
More great advice...


Looks like you can make it much better but I would do it by hand with a foam applicator.

I would actually start with a microfiber or cotton applicator or even a microfiber or cotton towel. The fibers will act as a gentle form of abrasive and help you to level the surface a tick faster than soft foam.

If it were me, I would probably run a #5000 Trizact sanding disc over very lightly by hand just to level what looks like high points of paint caused when the handle was somehow gouged and then polish till smooth and glossy but this requires a little finesse to do without making a mistake.


The area looks too small to get to with a 4 inch pad. Just start out with some finishing polish and see how that works. Try long even strokes, don't try to rub in one spot.

Slow and careful is the way to go...


You can burn through clear coat polishing by hand!


And that is sadly true.


Don't we all wish car manufacturers would put just a little more clearcoat film build on their vehicles?


:dunno:
 
The above by Jeff is VERY GOOD ADVICE.

Plastic components don't dissipate heat as fast as metal components. When you machine buff a small area like the top of this door handly you will create a LOT of heat very FAST and it only takes seconds to heat up the clear paint and either TWIST it or BURN THROUGH IT even with an orbital.

I would tackle these scratches by hand.

After hand rubbing you can lightly buzz a foam polishing pad over the top surface to shmoo it over and give it an even, high gloss appearance and then the rest of the life of the car be careful with this area.

:)

That's wisdom right there Mike. I think when I get a few hours free I'm gonna try and shmoo my whole car!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I don't think polishing will do the trick, but it is a good start (least aggressive method first). Definitely by hand for sure (feel the pad after you rub it a few times aggressively and see). I think in the end, you will probably have to paint it (just the handle part). You can certainly DIY relatively easy and a good starter job. The part is small, very easy to mask off, separated by seams and can be sanded in minutes. Funny enough I just did my driver's door handle last weekend and it only took 1.5 hours all together (the masking off the rest of the car was the most time consuming). If you want a short how to paint small parts on the car while mounted on your car I can post it here (not really a detailing type question).
 
Well first thing when my xc3401 arrives, will watch the DVDs provided ( thank you Mike ). Then I will tackle my cars paint followed by the paint on moms car.

Lastly when it's all done will slowly tackle the door handle. BTW the handle in the revised picture is upside down :-).

Appreciate all the advice and wisdom provided. Will post the outcome and wish me luck!

Thanks!
Emil
 
Lastly when it's all done will slowly tackle the door handle. BTW the handle in the revised picture is upside down :-)

Sorry about that.... I flipped it vertically both ways and still couldn't figure out the correct position. :laughing:


Appreciate all the advice and wisdom provided. Will post the outcome and wish me luck!

Thanks!
Emil


Already looking forward to your update posts...

Enjoy the FLEX 3401 - it's a BEAST!


I'd recommend starting out on a flat surface like a hood or a trunk lid and then do this...

Start out with a polishing pad and a polish as the softness of the foam pad will provide a smooth buffing experience and the polish will provide good lubrication for smooth buffing.

Practice holding the pad flat on the 4 to 5 speed setting.

NOTE: It's easier to control the FLEX 3401 at higher speeds than lower speeds. I rarely use anything below the 3 setting except when using the FLEX 3401 with a Nanoskin Autoscrub pad and then I'm on the 2 setting.


NOW - Practice buffing a section of paint on a flat surface holding the pad flat to the surface. Glide the pad back and forth and side to side. Get a feel for the buffer.


Next - Tilt the polisher to one side and feel how the polisher will try to walk in a specific direction. Then tilt the polisher in the opposite direction, feel how the polisher will want to walk in a different direct. Do this to feel what it's like if you're not holding the pad flat to the surface. Then go back to buffing with pad flat to the surface.

I show this in my classes to teach people correct and incorrect technique. Now when you're buffing, if you feel the polisher trying to walk on you - you know it's not the polisher - it's how you're holding the body of the tool in relationship to the panel you're buffing. Simply tweak your technique and you'll experience smooth buffing.

Also just to note, there are times when you need and want to go up on edge to buff thin panels. I can dig up a picture showing this from one of my CR classes.


The FLEX 3401 is a powerful tool. To become GREAT with it all you have to do is spend time behind it.


:)
 
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