DP Poli-Coat

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98LowRanger

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So in one my highest detailing package I am offering a sealant (DP Poli-Coat because I hear it is one of the best performing sealants and also easy to apply) after a machine polish with an AIO. I figure that the sealant should provide a little extra protection then wax on the freshly polished surface.

My question is for those who have used it before. Yes, I read the directions on the bottle. It says to apply with an applicator until the Poli-Coat hazes, then buff off. Can I apply it to the whole car and then come back with a microfiber bonnet on my DA to buff off the haze or do one panel at a time instead? Any tips from you guys that have applied it before would be greatly appreciated!
 
I cant speak specifically for the poli coat, but use the swipe test. Swipe a finger through the sealant, if it swipes thru and clear, time to wipe. If its still hazy when swiping, wait. There is an article on here about it that goes into detail
 
I haven't used Poli-Coat in a while but I would always apply to whole vehicle. Then by the time you are finished applying it's normally ready to come off starting with the first panel you applied. Swipe test is always the best bet. I'd normally clean up some supplies or do a few odds and ends if it looked like it needed a little more time to cure.
 
What AIO will you be using prior to applying the DP? It may not get a good surface bond depending on what's already left on the paint from the AIO.
 
Poli-Coat has it's own chemical bonding agent that should cut through any remaining wax or polishing residue that is left on the paint.
 
Gearhead said:
What AIO will you be using prior to applying the DP? It may not get a good surface bond depending on what's already left on the paint from the AIO.
Click to expand...

Wow, I never thought of that. I would be using Meguiars 151. Would I be better off NOT using a AIO as long as I am applying the sealant for protection? I could use a good polish like Meguiars M205 instead.
 
98LowRanger said:
Wow, I never thought of that. I would be using Meguiars 151. Would I be better off NOT using a AIO as long as I am applying the sealant for protection? I could use a good polish like Meguiars M205 instead.
Click to expand...

If you are doing a second step with a dedicated sealant you might as well polish out the car with M205. It's going to finish better than D151 and can correct swirls at the same pace.
 
If you're going with a sealant afterwards, the most common route would be 1-step polishing with a 'real polish', then the sealant step.

However, you may use 151 followed by sealant or wax, it's not just the best 'reasonably' since the 151 will add protection by itself (many consider unnecessary, overkilling), but can be done, sure.

If you're going to remove residue using a bonnet and polisher (I like doing this with products that dries to a haze), I highly recommend, at the end, for you to get a MF towel and do the last wipe (or final wipe) Mike Phillips way:

But I've chose Christina to show you how to do it:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/19956-final-wipe.html

Kind Regards.
 
Thanks for all the helpful replies guys! Going to apply Megs 205 now before I seal it with DP Poli-Coat :xyxthumbs:
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
If you are doing a second step with a dedicated sealant you might as well polish out the car with M205. It's going to finish better than D151 and can correct swirls at the same pace.
Click to expand...

Yep, that would work.... but if the paint is already polished and ready then a pre-wax cleaner type of product would be better (least aggressive approach in mind). Pinnacle PCL or Wolfgang PPE would work; Pinnacle is chemical-based and PPE has abrasives. Mother's Pre-Wax cleaner would work as well (looking at my inventory). :)
 
Thought I had some Megs 205, but turns out I only have Megs 105. The Jaguar I am polishing on has been well cared for so I just polished it with Menzerna Power Finish instead. Appling DP Poli-Coat today!
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
Poli-Coat has it's own chemical bonding agent that should cut through any remaining wax or polishing residue that is left on the paint.
Click to expand...

IMO that's what makes Poli-Coat so good, like said it will cut through your LSP being it's "Self bonding"
Also bonds to the paint very well, you don't have to wait as long before buffing it off like most, easy of, easy off.
Great shine and beading.

It's a great sealant:dblthumb2:
 
So tonight I applied the DP Poli-coat, but I fear that I may have done something wrong. I may just be expecting it to act like a wax when in reality it isn't. The directions say to apply in thin even coats. I did the hood with a black pad on my Flex. It went ok, but I decided it might go faster and get in all the tight areas easier if I just applied it by hand on a red foam applicator. So I did the whole car and thought I was applying it liberally, but when I apply it to the car it seemed to disappear. I waited at least 45 minutes and it didn't haze up like I expected. It was a very light haze and in many areas I could barely see it. I did the "swipe test" to make sure it was ready to come off. I buffed the haze off with a microfiber bonnet on my Flex DA. It applied and removed so easily that I almost fear that I did something wrong and it doesn't have a good coat of sealant. What do you guys think?
 
98LowRanger said:
So tonight I applied the DP Poli-coat, but I fear that I may have done something wrong. I may just be expecting it to act like a wax when in reality it isn't. The directions say to apply in thin even coats. I did the hood with a black pad on my Flex. It went ok, but I decided it might go faster and get in all the tight areas easier if I just applied it by hand on a red foam applicator. So I did the whole car and thought I was applying it liberally, but when I apply it to the car it seemed to disappear. I waited at least 45 minutes and it didn't haze up like I expected. It was a very light haze and in many areas I could barely see it. I did the "swipe test" to make sure it was ready to come off. I buffed the haze off with a microfiber bonnet on my Flex DA. It applied and removed so easily that I almost fear that I did something wrong and it doesn't have a good coat of sealant. What do you guys think?
Click to expand...

i think you're worried over nothing, if you're that concerned throw a topper on.
 
98LowRanger said:
So tonight I applied the DP Poli-coat, but I fear that I may have done something wrong. I may just be expecting it to act like a wax when in reality it isn't. The directions say to apply in thin even coats. I did the hood with a black pad on my Flex. It went ok, but I decided it might go faster and get in all the tight areas easier if I just applied it by hand on a red foam applicator. So I did the whole car and thought I was applying it liberally, but when I apply it to the car it seemed to disappear. I waited at least 45 minutes and it didn't haze up like I expected. It was a very light haze and in many areas I could barely see it. I did the "swipe test" to make sure it was ready to come off. I buffed the haze off with a microfiber bonnet on my Flex DA. It applied and removed so easily that I almost fear that I did something wrong and it doesn't have a good coat of sealant. What do you guys think?
Click to expand...


It's not good to wait too long after applying it, the directions says apply, wait a short time and buff off.
I find it to be the easiest to remove compared to any other sealant, even when I apply it by hand.
Here's how a I apply it.
I apply it to the hood and the two front fenders than start buffing it off the hood, I found if you wait too long it's more difficult to remove.
Good stuff:dblthumb2:
 
HateSwirls said:
It's not good to wait too long after applying it, the directions says apply, wait a short time and buff off.
I find it to be the easiest to remove compared to any other sealant, even when I apply it by hand.
Here's how a I apply it.
I apply it to the hood and the two front fenders than start buffing it off the hood, I found if you wait too long it's more difficult to remove.
Good stuff:dblthumb2:
Click to expand...


I did your method today and seemed to work well :xyxthumbs: I applied the DP Poli-coat using a red applicator pad in circular motions. It hazed up a little better then the last car, but still not as much as some waxes I have used in the past. I wiped it off after doing a few panels (hood and both fenders for example). I actually had time to test the sealant on this car. So about 2 hours after applying it I poured a little water on it and watched it completely bead up and run off! Wow!

Here is possibly a dumb question, but how do you guys clean your sealant applicator? Do you just throw it in a bag or somewhere safe for the next use? I ran warm water over it and rung it out causing sealant to squeeze out. Kind of a mess.
 
98LowRanger said:
I did your method today and seemed to work well :xyxthumbs: I applied the DP Poli-coat using a red applicator pad in circular motions. It hazed up a little better then the last car, but still not as much as some waxes I have used in the past. I wiped it off after doing a few panels (hood and both fenders for example). I actually had time to test the sealant on this car. So about 2 hours after applying it I poured a little water on it and watched it completely bead up and run off! Wow!

Here is possibly a dumb question, but how do you guys clean your sealant applicator? Do you just throw it in a bag or somewhere safe for the next use? I ran warm water over it and rung it out causing sealant to squeeze out. Kind of a mess.
Click to expand...



I soak it in some all purpose cleaner for an hour then rinse off well using a water hose then in the washing machine it goes.
It still has a present of the sealant but at least it's clean and safe to use, sort of primed.
 
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