Drying aid to go w/ PBL coating (not PBL QD)

creaky

creaky

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Just coated the wife's car with PBL paint coating. Wondering what you all use for drying aids with this coating. I honestly can't justify the cost of the PBL QD. Thanks.
 
Any QD should work, but if you have a coating, compressed air is really the way to go.
 
SYMAWD said:
Any QD should work, but if you have a coating, compressed air is really the way to go.
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Not sure what you mean by compressed air - do you mean blowing dry with a leaf blower, etc.?
 
Is the worry that leaving something behind will damage the coating? If its ceramic I cant see anything thats friendly to paint affecting it in a negative way. Its going to be a lot harder and a lot more chemically resistant than paint.
 
KneeDragr said:
Is the worry that leaving something behind will damage the coating? If its ceramic I cant see anything thats friendly to paint affecting it in a negative way. Its going to be a lot harder and a lot more chemically resistant than paint.
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Not so worries about anything hurting it, really, just looking for something that will play nice w/ PBL and not hinder any future applications of PBL booster.
 
creaky said:
Just coated the wife's car with PBL paint coating. Wondering what you all use for drying aids with this coating. I honestly can't justify the cost of the PBL QD. Thanks.
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creaky said:
Not so worries about anything hurting it, really, just looking for something that will play nice w/ PBL and not hinder any future applications of PBL booster.
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Doesn't the PBL Booster cost ~$10.00 more than the PBL QD?

Bob
 
creaky said:
A waterless wash as a drying aid? Interesting.
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Absolutely, specifically, Adams or Poorboys; they contain no gloss enhancers or wax, so they won't leave anything behind. I like Adams better as a drying aid.
 
FUNX725 said:
Doesn't the PBL Booster cost ~$10.00 more than the PBL QD?

Bob
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Yes, but weekly washes requiring a drying aid add up much faster than the booster, which I plan on using intermittently, maybe every few weeks.

ZL1 Mark said:
Absolutely, specifically, Adams or Poorboys; they contain no gloss enhancers or wax, so they won't leave anything behind. I like Adams better as a drying aid.
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OK, got it, thanks!
 
Prima hydro or duragloss Aquawax.....for a true topping over coatings I use carpro RELOAD
 
creaky said:
Yes, but weekly washes requiring a drying aid
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Why would a highly-hydrophobic Coating require, (as you're calling a QD): A "drying aid"?
Shouldn't water be scared to stick around?

Whatever you apply on top of this Coating will become the LSP, and bring with it: whatever characteristics that this "last LSP" has, as well.

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
Why would a highly-hydrophobic Coating require, (as you're calling a QD): A "drying aid"?
Shouldn't water be scared to stick around?

Whatever you apply on top of this Coating will become the LSP, and bring with it: whatever characteristics that this "last LSP" has, as well.

Bob
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I see where you're going with this, Bob, which is what now has me concerned - not "leaving anything behind." Really what I'm looking for is something to add lubrication to the towel drying process to reduce minor scratching.

And now all this gets me thinking: should I also be concerned with what wash I'm using? Perhaps it also leaves something behind. At the moment I have CG Citrus and Optimum Car Wash for 2BM and ONR for "Gary Dean" washes. Anyone want to weigh in?

Thanks again.
 
creaky said:
I see where you're going with this, Bob, which is what now has me concerned - not "leaving anything behind." Really what I'm looking for is something to add lubrication to the towel drying process to reduce minor scratching.

And now all this gets me thinking: should I also be concerned with what wash I'm using? Perhaps it also leaves something behind. At the moment I have CG Citrus and Optimum Car Wash for 2BM and ONR for "Gary Dean" washes. Anyone want to weigh in?

Thanks again.
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I have wondered this myself a time or two. Actually thought about buying a CG soap for matte finishes as it shouldn't have gloss enhancers in it.

Ultimately, the best "QD" I've found for the PBL surface coating has been the Pinnacle Rinseless wash with Carnuaba in a squirt bottle. I know it sounds like a no-no, but I had some on hand and tried it. Looks fantastic on the finished product. Sucks on glass, though lots of streaking and residue left behind.

FUNX725 said:
Why would a highly-hydrophobic Coating require, (as you're calling a QD): A "drying aid"?
Shouldn't water be scared to stick around?

Whatever you apply on top of this Coating will become the LSP, and bring with it: whatever characteristics that this "last LSP" has, as well.

Bob
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In the Texas heat, I cannot get around my Black Challenger fast enough with any drying scheme to completely eliminate water spots. I have to use a little something extra to remove them in the drying process. I prefer not to scrub water spots with just a damp towel.

I've started to treat my coating more like a layer of Clear Coat, and whatever gets put on the top protects it. Then the real clear coat underneath should be locked far away from most contaminants and fallout. Less correcting of the true clear coat as well when hat has to be done. Sure, it's good enough to be stand alone, but the maintenance products for coatings come with a hefty price tag.
 
aim4squirrels said:
In the Texas heat, I cannot get around my Black Challenger fast enough with any drying scheme to completely eliminate water spots. I have to use a little something extra to remove them in the drying process. I prefer not to scrub water spots with just a damp towel.
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When that happens to me I engage the old adage:
"Like for Like"---Water vs. Water---a spritz or two of water,
along with the damp MF-towel.

If I use any other "QD" for this purpose:
I know that I now have covered-up the underlying LSP...
With no delusions of this (now previous) LSP, having any:
"durability/longevity/beading/shine/etc.-testing-results" credibility.

IMHO:
"Topping-up" skews these...and other LSP-"tests".


Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
When that happens to me I engage the old adage:
"Like for Like"---Water vs. Water---a spritz or two of water,
along with the damp MF-towel.

If I use any other "QD" for this purpose:
I know that I now have coourvered-up the underlying LSP...
With no delusions of this (now previous) LSP, having any:
"durability/longevity/beading/shine/etc.-testing-results" credibility.

IMHO:
"Topping-up" skews these...and other LSP-"tests".
Bob
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Agreed, but at what point does the line on the invalidating factor of a test get drawn?

Is no washing until the coating fails the only true teller of the story?

Washing once monthly? Weekly? With what soap do we consider the standard to judge by, as many contain some form of surfactant that will be left behind.

Must QDs, rinseless, and waterless washes be excluded?

And what of these boosters like Reload? Certainly it seems they would effect the longevity of a coating test, if we are assuming the failure of a coating is happening from the exterior surfaces down to the clear coat. But if the failure is a result of the clear coat/coating bond? In that instance, no amount of toppers should make a difference.
 
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