Drying towel suggestions

Eldorado2k said:
Correct me if I’m wrong, but doesn’t sealing up wet towels in an air tight bucket result in even faster mold? Wash mitts in soapy water is fine, but damp towels in a dry air tight bucket?

It does, actually, because I have an empty rubber trash can that I use as a makeshift towel hamper, but if I leave wet towels in there and the lid happens to be even slightly closed for too long my towels develop mold.

I’ve ruined many towels & pads in this thing…

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You do run that risk, but I'm not talking about storing them like that for days, weeks.

Personally, I think most people who get into problems with their towels going hydrophobic is from a lack of prompt washing. As in, they leave the towels in a pile for days, then blame whatever spray sealant they used for ruining the towel.

As I said in the post, having the lid helps prevent the towels from drying while you are still working, in theory preventing the products from setting up in the towel. I also think those not using a modern dedicated MF detergent are contributing to poor towel performance. Modern detailing products are better targeted by these detergents compared to just using normal clothes washing liquid.
 
I agree with this ^^^^ with the exception of the microfiber dedicated detergent. One must use a free and clear and by that I mean no dyes or perfumes/etc added. Arm and Hammer free and clear is my preferred and I suspect it is very close to soaps such as Rags to Riches except Rags to Riches is 4 times the price.
Not knocking anyone who uses these specialty soaps but is a perfect example of a detailing specific product that is not necessary and same results can be accomplished much more economically.
 
BLM said:
I agree with this ^^^^ with the exception of the microfiber dedicated detergent. One must use a free and clear and by that I mean no dyes or perfumes/etc added. Arm and Hammer free and clear is my preferred and I suspect it is very close to soaps such as Rags to Riches except Rags to Riches is 4 times the price.
Not knocking anyone who uses these specialty soaps but is a perfect example of a detailing specific product that is not necessary and same results can be accomplished much more economically.
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Griots in there video for their MF wash is different from most I’ve seen. The recommend mixing with F&C detergents as the will get dirt and grime but not formulated for Polishes, sealant and wax. Also recommend using hot to wash. I do feel there’s some truth to that in my very unscientific trials.

I believe the washing right after and washing in hot is why my 5 year old PFM’s still work wonderfully.


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I had left some towels in the dryer from Sunday and my wife went to dry a load and saw they weren't quite dry so she put them on for some more time and then took them out to dry her regular wash

Only she missed 2 of my precious orange 500gsm plush towels and dried them with her load

And when she checked her load and it wasn't dry, she noticed my towels, and put the whole thing on for more time

She told me about finding them the second time around and leaving them in there and I just about lost it (not really, the towels are replaceable, the wife isn't) and pulled them out

Luckily we only use Tide F&C and we don't use anything in the dryer except those wool balls so hopefully a couple of wash cycles can get out any lint or anything they picked up
 
I don’t like running the washer/dryer That often.. If everyone did that they’d only need 1 drying towel, whereas I have about a dozen. Lol.
 
chilly said:
I had left some towels in the dryer from Sunday and my wife went to dry a load and saw they weren't quite dry so she put them on for some more time and then took them out to dry her regular wash

Only she missed 2 of my precious orange 500gsm plush towels and dried them with her load

And when she checked her load and it wasn't dry, she noticed my towels, and put the whole thing on for more time

She told me about finding them the second time around and leaving them in there and I just about lost it (not really, the towels are replaceable, the wife isn't) and pulled them out

Luckily we only use Tide F&C and we don't use anything in the dryer except those wool balls so hopefully a couple of wash cycles can get out any lint or anything they picked up
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I mean…. 500 gsm micro fiber towels… you don’t have to divorce her bet I think a 1 week separation is in order.


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BLM said:
I agree with this ^^^^ with the exception of the microfiber dedicated detergent. One must use a free and clear and by that I mean no dyes or perfumes/etc added. Arm and Hammer free and clear is my preferred and I suspect it is very close to soaps such as Rags to Riches except Rags to Riches is 4 times the price.
Not knocking anyone who uses these specialty soaps but is a perfect example of a detailing specific product that is not necessary and same results can be accomplished much more economically.
Click to expand...

My comment in regard to using dedicated microfiber detergents was based around the fact normal washing detergents like Free & Clear do not have the ability to remove modern detailing chemicals such as polishes, Si02 sprays and polymer sealants, as highlighted in the below quote -

Griots in there video for their MF wash is different from most I’ve seen. The recommend mixing with F&C detergents as the will get dirt and grime but not formulated for Polishes, sealant and wax. Also recommend using hot to wash. I do feel there’s some truth to that in my very unscientific trials.
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As I said, people who complain about hydrophobic towels are experiencing this because of not using the right detergent. You can whine about the price, but the results speak for themselves. When I made the switch, I revived all of my older towels that were on the verge of being thrown away.

So, what's more expensive? Buying a dedicated detergent every now and then, or replacing expensive towels because they become hydrophobic from improper washing?
 
DFB said:
My comment in regard to using dedicated microfiber detergents was based around the fact normal washing detergents like Free & Clear do not have the ability to remove modern detailing chemicals such as polishes, Si02 sprays and polymer sealants, as highlighted in the below quote -

So, what's more expensive? Buying a dedicated detergent every now and then, or replacing expensive towels because they become hydrophobic from improper washing?
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My towels are not hydrophobic and I use products with SI02 on a regular basis. Also occasionally polishes and waxes.
Of course Griots is going to say their laundry detergent gets out stuff that free and clear can't. They are in the business of selling special microfiber detergent. They have to say something so people will buy it. Can anyone tell me exactly what chemicals are in the dedicated microfiber detergent that justifies using the special detergent and supports the claim of getting out the products that free and clear cannot which is claimed by those selling the dedicated microfiber detergents?

Arm and Hammer, free and clear $14.97 for 105 fluid oz.

Rags to Riches $20.60 + shipping for 32 fluid oz. So might as well call it $30.00 for 32 oz.

Obviously nobody is changing anyone's mind with this information. But I'm good with my method. I also use 8 oz. of white vinegar in the rinse cycle which also takes care of anything still remaining in the towels, The vinegar is $3.00-$4.00 per gallon. Just because a certain product costs more does not necessarily make that product better and that analogy is very prominent with detailing products.

Hype is the name of the game with many detailing products. Always has been and probably always will be.
 
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DFB said:
My comment in regard to using dedicated microfiber detergents was based around the fact normal washing detergents like Free & Clear do not have the ability to remove modern detailing chemicals such as polishes, Si02 sprays and polymer sealants, as highlighted in the below quote -



As I said, people who complain about hydrophobic towels are experiencing this because of not using the right detergent. You can whine about the price, but the results speak for themselves. When I made the switch, I revived all of my older towels that were on the verge of being thrown away.

So, what's more expensive? Buying a dedicated detergent every now and then, or replacing expensive towels because they become hydrophobic from improper washing?
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I went through countless gallons of 3D Towel Kleen and 2 gallons of Rags2Riches and neither of them could ever prevent or revive any drying towels that succumbed to using drying aids with them, and I wash in nothing but hot water.

As far as these detergents being specifically formulated to wash out compounds & polishes… I think we should all remember the fact that our pads come 100% clean by simply running plain water through them in the kitchen sink if we want to! So how advanced does a microfiber detergent really even need to be?! Lol.

I’ll say it again, plain water in the kitchen sink gets pads 100% clean. You can’t do that with your dirty laundry, so which detergent is actually more advanced?
 
Setec Astronomy said:
That may be true, but I think for some of us getting caught by our wife rinsing out a polishing pad in the kitchen sink gets us 100% dead.
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Better than getting caught putting them in the dishwasher???
Which is the suggested excuse if caught rinsing in the kitchen sink.
 
BLM said:
Better than getting caught putting them in the dishwasher???
Which is the suggested excuse if caught rinsing in the kitchen sink.
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I think that's good advice. This is making me think about the electronic air cleaners that Honeywell used to sell for in your furnace, that they suggested you clean the grids in the dishwasher...which seemed like divorce material.

Fortunately I have a slop sink in the basement separate even from the laundry sink that I can do any dirty car stuff in without getting in trouble.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
That may be true, but I think for some of us getting caught by our wife rinsing out a polishing pad in the kitchen sink gets us 100% dead.
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It can be done in the backyard with a Grit Guard and a garden hose nozzle. Set it to jet and it cleans a pad in less than 10 seconds.

Just have to make sure to do it the same day you used them. Allowing product to dry for a day requires the washing machine.
 
I think we are getting right back into how our individual water chemistry affects our towel and pad washing outcomes, just like it skews the results we get from soaps

My takeaway is use what works for you following YOUR testing and experimentation; don't rely on anecdotal evidence

This is what works for me in my world; my washing machine meters soap automatically based on load size and I add 2 oz of MF detergent and fill the rinse dispenser to the max line with the white vinegar

I never use fabric softener in the washer or dryer sheets in the dryer

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BLM said:
Better than getting caught putting them in the dishwasher???
Which is the suggested excuse if caught rinsing in the kitchen sink.
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I have a work colleague that likes to wash out paint brushes in the staff kitchen sink. His wife (who also works there) isn't the one raking him over the coals for that, rather me and another male co-worker. :ROFLMAO:
 
I generally start with a dryer and then the best towel I have used is the Griots PFM Edgeless.
 
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