Drying: Waffle or Microfiber, you prefer?

RaptorGT

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Just curious Waffle or Microfiber you like to use? I use both and have not seen any scratch issues using waffle towels. I do admit I only use microfiber drying towels on nicer cars not really everyday driving. Now on my Wife's Wrangler does get driven everyday it gets waffle towels on it and if am out of them i will go to microfibers.



-Andre
 
Waffle, but starting this season, blow dry then waffle for remaining water.
 
I did forget to add I use my little sidekick blower for all the gaps on car panels first then dry the rest. I do have two PFM microfiber drying towels, they are nice!


Agree, I also use a drying agent (spray wax) as a lubricant and for added protection.

I never tried that before. When I wash my Wife's jeep this weekend I will try that, as I generally use spray wax once its dry as a wax booster.
 
I did forget to add I use my little sidekick blower for all the gaps on car panels first then dry the rest. I do have two PFM microfiber drying towels, they are nice!




I never tried that before. When I wash my Wife's jeep this weekend I will try that, as I generally use spray wax once its dry as a wax booster.

Kills two birds with one stone. Spray wax on a damp or wet car does not diminish the effectiveness of the wax. The wax is nanometers thick, the water particles are millimeters thick.
 
Is that the Rag Co. thing?
Yes it is, but I use a different drying towel from The Rag Company...I use their Double Twistress, which is similar to the Griot's PFM drying towel only a bit smaller, with fewer GSM (1,120 for the PFM, 850 for the Double Twistress) and a lot less expensive ($39 for PFM, $13 for TRC). I blow dry and then finalize with the Double Twistress as needed.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Ever since I got the PFM, my waffle weaves are on permanent vacation......
 
Useally I use a twisted terry weave mf drying towel the PFM style drying towels on the horisontall surfaces and lay out and pull against me. Only one pull/ drag is necessary to do. The vertical panels I use a plush mf drying towel to pad drying those panels. For this I have the test winner in the Forensic Detailing Channel on Youtube where he did a massive testing on drying towels almost about 2 years ago. This drying towel soak up water amounts that are crazy. They have since then released a very big version of this towel which is like 4 of the ones that was in the test LOL. But think that could be a little too big to handle. Cause when this ordinary size gets filled with water it's very heave. Think it was around 1 gallon of water it was able to hold on to in his way of testing that. Now it's not so it's doing that when drying without leaving water behind but what amount it was able to hold without release the water from it. And I have tested other drying towels of this plush kind and nothing has been even close to that test winner. Use those for the nock and crannies to dry the last of the car.

Tested WW towels but has never been a fan of those for drying vehicals. Use them as a last towel when cleaning the glass after the glass cleaning if I do that.

I don't use drying aid either as they mess with the ability to soak up water and hold on to the water. If a drying towel is not gentle enough to be marring safe IMO it's not a good drying towel. This is a little thing about the twisted terry weave drying towels that they are on the edge for me to be gentle enough. Useally these towels has a 80/20 blend of mf. And the difference is noticeble for me to softness with the 70/30 blend of plush mf drying towels. But they soak up water very fast and leaves it very dry with only 1 drag/pull/wipe. So with the matador drying technique or lay out and pull against me they feel good and acceptable for me and no obviuos marring the paint what I have seen. That's also why I switch to the plush mf drying towel and pad/blott drying technique or useing with wipe dry on some places.

Got me a leafblower last year and have mixed results with it. For blowing out water where it's useally sits and comes out when starting the vehical and drive it. It works awesome to get the job done with the leafblower. If the LSP is not on a high water repellent range. I feel like when I'm not able to get it completly dry with the leafblower. And the little water that is left is way more able to create water spots for me. So with a sheeting rinse and the beading it leaves behind. I would use the drying towel to soak it up in 1 pull or wipe. This is most important if I'm not applying anything afterwards. If useing a topper these little water spots is no problem for the product to desolve it. I think that it's calcium that is the most in the water where I live. And if takeing care of it sooner than later it's fairly easy to do with a QD or spray wax.

Can sound a bit extreme this LOL. But useally 3 drying towels and 10 minutes to dry my Kia cee'd SW is what's needed. So a method that works great for me. Maybe something like the Master Blaster with the added heat to help drying would work much better than the leafblower to get it completly dry on most part without the need to be followed by a drying towel.

Is there anyone else that has more problems with water spotting when useing a leafblower to blow dry the car with? Than you have when you drying with drying towels only.

/ Tony
 
It used to be waffle but I got some large CG microfiber drying towels and they work better.
 
Flood the car with a hose for final rinse; leaf blower to dry wheels push water out of seams; then mist panels and glass with Megs x-press spray wax. 1st wipe with Chemical Guys Grey Matter towel on first pass, then Griots 16x16 to finish. Perfecto.
 
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