Durability Experiment -> Cloudy Hood?

[Sn95nik]

Hello all,

I'll be brief, but I'd like some feedback on a problem I had this weekend. I hit the hood of my Laser Red Mustang with SSR1, and then layed down three different LSP's in different areas with the idea of doing a durability test. The products were Meg's #26, DP MaxWax (love the way this went on and off!), and Duragloss 601/105 combo. Now I know I don't have any icture:, but it started to rain not long after I noticed the problem, so I'll just describe it as best I can. Basically, the paint looks cloudy across the entire hood. Like some areas of the paint are much darker than others, in random blotches, no real pattern to it. Since this is spread across the entire hood, and not just one of the LSP's, I'm assuming it must be something to do with the SSR1. Is it possible that the oils in SSR1 could cause cloudy paint if not removed before LSP application? Would an IPA wipe-down after polishing have helped this? TIA for your help,

Nick

PS. So much for being brief, I apologize, but I'm just a little frustrated

 

[Excessive Detail]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but max wax and #26 are nuba pastse, and I don't know about duragloss, and pastse aren't really meant to hold up to long, usually through a few washes, if that. Probably waht going on is you didn't remove all the product to layed down, either when you were polishing or usinf lsp. I would take your qd and a fresh mf and wipe down the area. Also, you may not have layed down the lsp evenly, since you used three different ones, and with most nubas its good to use a foam app. pad to evenly thin out the nuba.

 

[Sn95nik]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but max wax and #26 are nuba pastse, and I don't know about duragloss, and pastse aren't really meant to hold up to long, usually through a few washes, if that. Probably waht going on is you didn't remove all the product to layed down, either when you were polishing or usinf lsp. I would take your qd and a fresh mf and wipe down the area. Also, you may not have layed down the lsp evenly, since you used three different ones, and with most nubas its good to use a foam app. pad to evenly thin out the nuba.

You're correct, the MaxWax and the #26 are both Carnuba's. The Duragloss is a synthetic, but I was really more interested in which carnuba would last longest. I'll be using the Duragloss over the winter months, and just wanted to get an idea of how long it will last with proper care. Let me point out again that I did not apply all three products on top of each other, they are in adjacent areas next to each other. All were applied thinly with foam apps. I too though that perhaps I had not removed all of the product, or didn't lay them down evenly, but I have the same haziness/cloudiness under all three LSP's. This is what led me to believe it was an issue with the SSR1, because that is the only thing all three areas have in common. I'll make sure and try an IPA wipe after the SSR next time, to see if I can confirm this. Thanks.

 

[wytstang]

but I was really more interested in which carnuba would last longest.

#26 is a synthetic blend isn't it???

 

[Sn95nik]

#26 is a synthetic blend isn't it???

The extent of my knowledge on #26 is that it contains Carnuba. I won't claim to be an expert, because I'm not. There is a very good chance it could contain synthetics as well.

Either way, this still wouldn't change the fact that the cloudiness I've seen covers the whole hood, under all three different areas with all three different LSP's. The ONLY product that was used in all three areas is the SSR1. I'm currently at work, but I'm going to try to wipedown the hood with QD when I get home, and see if the I can get some pics of this to show you guys. After that, the next step will, I guess, be an IPA wipe down and re-application of the LSP's to see if the haze/cloudiness comes back.

 

[ScottB]

cloudiness is normal one of two items. A sealant that did not properly cure (toss that one out although Duragloss is a sealant) or the polish did not break down completely at left high/low spots. Thats why I always suggest an alcohol wipe down before ANY protectant.

Try to wipe the car with some distilled water and see if its gone. It could also be too much product, but highly unlikely since you used three different brands.

 

[Surfer]

cloudiness is normal one of two items. A sealant that did not properly cure (toss that one out although Duragloss is a sealant) or the polish did not break down completely at left high/low spots. Thats why I always suggest an alcohol wipe down before ANY protectant.

Try to wipe the car with some distilled water and see if its gone. It could also be too much product, but highly unlikely since you used three different brands.

Agree, I don't think you broke down SSR enough, try using IA or Klasse AIO then follow up with your products. Especially since all 3 brands showed the same character.

 

[supercharged]

I always wipe down the surface with 50/50 water/rubbing alcohol BEFORE applying any sealant. Same should go for wax too. And if you know it's gonna rain soon, park under a shelter or in a garage.

 

[Reddwarf]

This is interesting. I had not picked up on the alcohol wipe down before. So, Killr, is suggesting that after he removed the PB SSR1, he should have wiped the car down with isopropyl alcohol. I assume with an MF? Supercharged suggests a solution of 50/50 water and alcohol. Then Surfer mentioned AIO. Hmm, a little more details here would be good – for Sn95nik and some of us other folks too!

 

[ScottB]

AIO is paint cleaner with no real fillers, so a perfect starting place for adding any protectant (wax or sealant).

I rub down with alcohol (alcohol is already a combination w/ water) for two reasons. Removes any missed polish, it removes any fillers, and gives a pristine finish for ANY protectant to adhere too. It also shows me if any of the swirls or marring was just hidden (by fillers) versus truly removed. That way I can go back to a polish again and again if necessary.

 

[Surfer]

AIO is paint cleaner with no real fillers, so a perfect starting place for adding any protectant (wax or sealant).

I rub down with alcohol (alcohol is already a combination w/ water) for two reasons. Removes any missed polish, it removes any fillers, and gives a pristine finish for ANY protectant to adhere too. It also shows me if any of the swirls or marring was just hidden (by fillers) versus truly removed. That way I can go back to a polish again and again if necessary.

AIO leaves a little protection, but looks like you prefer IA. I'm almost wondering if I should just use IA from now on since my suv is white and kinda had a hard time buffing off what little AIO residue their was b/c it blended right in (had to keep using halogens and looking at sharp angles to catch anything).

 

[Reddwarf]

This is what confuses me about AIO. It's a paint cleaner, but also a sealant? I've read posts that say apply a thin coat and let it cure. But in this case you are wiping on and off to clean, no?

 

[Sn95nik]

And if you know it's gonna rain soon, park under a shelter or in a garage.

The car was in the garage, I just meant I couldn't get it out to get any good pics because of the rain. It's been a long day today, but I'll have some time off tomorrow afternoon at which point I'll try the IPA wipe down and LSP re-application. I'll update (hopefully with pics) afterwards. Thanks for the help guys, especially Killr and Surfer for confirming my suspicions. I'm still having a hard time telling just how long to work the SSR's to ensure total breakdown I guess. I worked the polish for a LONG time, but it's quite likely I just used too much. More practice is definately needed, which means, MORE DETAILING :awesome:

 

[joe.p]

AIO is paint cleaner with no real fillers, so a perfect starting place for adding any protectant (wax or sealant).

I rub down with alcohol (alcohol is already a combination w/ water) for two reasons. Removes any missed polish, it removes any fillers, and gives a pristine finish for ANY protectant to adhere too. It also shows me if any of the swirls or marring was just hidden (by fillers) versus truly removed. That way I can go back to a polish again and again if necessary.

Does any of the SSR's contain fillers ?

 

[ScottB]

AIO --- an ALL IN ONE product, thus it offers cleaning and protection just like a cleaner wax. Not necessarily the best of each, but a good product. Most top it because they want to enhance the look and durability.

SSR's --- in wiping them off there is clearly some product left on paint. So I would gander some fillers are present. Does not seem to seperate like some oil based polishes (you should see my bottle of Red Moose)

 

[Surfer]

AIO --- an ALL IN ONE product, thus it offers cleaning and protection just like a cleaner wax. Not necessarily the best of each, but a good product. Most top it because they want to enhance the look and durability.

SSR's --- in wiping them off there is clearly some product left on paint. So I would gander some fillers are present. Does not seem to seperate like some oil based polishes (you should see my bottle of Red Moose)

Scott, in case you missed my post since I use AIO, do you prefer IPA over it? Or do you wipe down with IPA then go over with AIO? Just wondering since AIO leaves a little acrylic protection behind, but on a white suv there are always spots I have to go over b/c it and EX-P blend into my white lol.

 

[Sn95nik]

but on a white suv there are always spots I have to go over b/c it and EX-P blend into my white lol.

:iagree:

Don't remember where it was exactly, but I saw someone post an idea once that would be perfect for situations like this. It would basically be an additive that you mix in with your AIO/Carnuba/Sealant while applying it, that would cause it to turn a much more visible color (like bright blue) once dry. This would make things much easier to see and remove from lighter colored cars, however, I'm not sure how well you could get it to work without compromising the protection of the product. Just a random memory, sorry

 

[Surfer]

:iagree:

Don't remember where it was exactly, but I saw someone post an idea once that would be perfect for situations like this. It would basically be an additive that you mix in with your AIO/Carnuba/Sealant while applying it, that would cause it to turn a much more visible color (like bright blue) once dry. This would make things much easier to see and remove from lighter colored cars, however, I'm not sure how well you could get it to work without compromising the protection of the product. Just a random memory, sorry

Yea, AIO wasn't that bad, but EX-P (but I love it) blended right into my white. I had two coats on and each time I had to go over areas multiple times even though I thought I got everything b/c at slight angles I could see slight product left over.

 

[ScottB]

Scott, in case you missed my post since I use AIO, do you prefer IPA over it? Or do you wipe down with IPA then go over with AIO? Just wondering since AIO leaves a little acrylic protection behind, but on a white suv there are always spots I have to go over b/c it and EX-P blend into my white lol.

Both are fine choices .... I use AIO on several areas of the car (underhood, rain tracks) but I really dont use it on paint. Most the time polish, wipe down, repolish, jewel and a good carnuaba. When I use a sealant I end with APC after polishing before the sealant for best adhesion.

Ever thought of removing AIO with a little qd'er ?? Might get rid of those spots and add a little gloss. Id use Quikshine or Mothers Showtime.