Duragloss 105/501/601?

[Shortspark]

Maybe this will help. I found this quote at another forum from someone who has used both 101 and 105: "Both seem to have similar levels of abrasives (very little). The looks are a bit different to me. 101 is closer to a carnauba, so its better for solid colors. 101 also seems to have slightly stronger cleaners".

 

[Klasse Act]

Maybe this will help. I found this quote at another forum from someone who has used both 101 and 105: "Both seem to have similar levels of abrasives (very little). The looks are a bit different to me. 101 is closer to a carnauba, so its better for solid colors. 101 also seems to have slightly stronger cleaners".

Thank you very much and since that's the case I'll end up always having/using #105, 111 and 501, ofcoarse 601 to add to the mix and always AW. When using #101 I always liked how it performed, so its no slam against it but I really don't like too much overlap, so if its more like a nuba, I'll stick with a nuba for finish but then again it should last longer than a nuba, especially in the summer....hmmm, maybe it will always be apart of the team photo afterall.

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

 

[nubaseal]

I have a bottle of DG 105 lying around and looking at the pictures from when I last used it, I am tempted to use it again.

I need help to choose between 601 and 501 as the base for the 105. Thing is, I am a newbie and don't own a rotary or a DA. I will be working by hand. My options are:

1. Go to a detailer and get the paint prepped using a compound and a rotary and then apply 601 + 105. 501 is not required in this case as the car will be washed, clayed, de-tarred, de-ironed and machine polished. The 601 will work as an IPA to strips any previous layers of LSP & lay a good base for 105 to bond to and increase it's durability.

2. Skip the detailer - wash, clay, de-tar, de-iron at home and then polish by hand using 501 on a Lake Country Orange Cutting pad. Then seal with 105. 601 is probably not required in this case.

Please let me know what makes more sense.

 

[Klasse Act]

Well #601 is the bonding agent and a lot of us mix it 4 parts #105 or #501 and 1 part #601 to make it the mix stronger, so that's what you use the #601 for.

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

 

[nubaseal]

Thanks. I do have a bit of dilemma in the two options that I described above

 

[davidc]

601 allows consecutive multiple coats. I usually do 2 to make sure everything has been coated. 601 also increases the longevity of the sealant. The way I approach the application is 1 round of 601/501 which cleans the surface from polishing compounding then 2 coats of 601/105

Dave

 

[nubaseal]

601 allows consecutive multiple coats. I usually do 2 to make sure everything has been coated. 601 also increases the longevity of the sealant. The way I approach the application is 1 round of 601/501 which cleans the surface from polishing compounding then 2 coats of 601/105

Dave

Thanks Dave. How long should I wait between coats and how long should I leave it on paint before removing it?



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[davidc]

Thanks Dave. How long should I wait between coats and how long should I leave it on paint before removing it?



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

With 601 no waiting required. The removal is the typical wait till it hazes. My usual is to do the whole vehicle and return to where I started for the removal as it is ready by then.

Dave

 

[Klasse Act]

With 601 no waiting required. The removal is the typical wait till it hazes. My usual is to do the whole vehicle and return to where I started for the removal as it is ready by then.

Dave

Exactly!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

 

[hollerstiltner]

I have a bottle of DG 105 lying around and looking at the pictures from when I last used it, I am tempted to use it again.

I need help to choose between 601 and 501 as the base for the 105. Thing is, I am a newbie and don't own a rotary or a DA. I will be working by hand. My options are:

1. Go to a detailer and get the paint prepped using a compound and a rotary and then apply 601 + 105. 501 is not required in this case as the car will be washed, clayed, de-tarred, de-ironed and machine polished. The 601 will work as an IPA to strips any previous layers of LSP & lay a good base for 105 to bond to and increase it's durability.

2. Skip the detailer - wash, clay, de-tar, de-iron at home and then polish by hand using 501 on a Lake Country Orange Cutting pad. Then seal with 105. 601 is probably not required in this case.

Please let me know what makes more sense.

Between your options it comes down to how you want the car to look and how much you want to spend.

Option 1 will remove swirls and probably look good. I do hope the detailer is good with a rotary and follows with a finishing polish. You might end up with buffer trails. Not a guarantee, but I'd ask their process. Also, I'd imagine they would apply an LSP for you.

Option 2 is good for a paint cleaning but don't expect any large amount of swirl removal.

Both options will provide long lasting protection.

That's my tale on it at least. Hope I helped some.

Chris
PS, I'd go option 2 because I'm cheap and don't like others touching my truck.

 

[nubaseal]

Option 1 will remove swirls and probably look good. I do hope the detailer is good with a rotary and follows with a finishing polish. You might end up with buffer trails. Not a guarantee, but I'd ask their process. Also, I'd imagine they would apply an LSP for you.

The detailer is a friend and I can ask him to use a finishing polish if required. He works only with Meguiar's so he will probably use their Ultimate Polish. But that creates another problem, how do I remove it before applying 501+601 as the finishing polish is Oily and wont allow the sealant to bond?

Does 601 work like an IPA? And No, I will use my own LSP at home either way - DG 105+601 in either case.

 

[richy]

The detailer is a friend and I can ask him to use a finishing polish if required. He works only with Meguiar's so he will probably use their Ultimate Polish. But that creates another problem, how do I remove it before applying 501+601 as the finishing polish is Oily and wont allow the sealant to bond?

Does 601 work like an IPA? And No, I will use my own LSP at home either way - DG 105+601 in either case.

The 601 part of the mixture will prepare the surface. He will get improvement in the look of the paint by using the 501/601 mixture.

 

[nubaseal]

Ok, so I have ordered 601 today and the plan is as follows, please check each step in the workflow and let me know if anything needs to be changed. I want to bulletproof my paint using DG for a few months:

1. Pressure wash and shampoo
2. Ultimate Elastrofoam Clay + UWW as Clay Lube
3. Menzerna FG400 on a rotary. Wool pads for correction and then finish with foam pads.
4. Meguiar's Final inspection as an IPA to remove all polishing oils
5. Apply 601 and allow it to haze for 5 minutes
6. Apply 105 on top of it and allow it to haze for 5 minutes and then remove

If any of the steps seem like an overkill, please let me know.

 

[ChrisJ]

I too am a lover of the duragloss. I read Richy's post religiously on the subject of duragloss products. Now to get my hands on some DG 105, DG 601, and DG 501

 

[davidc]

Ok, so I have ordered 601 today and the plan is as follows, please check each step in the workflow and let me know if anything needs to be changed. I want to bulletproof my paint using DG for a few months:

1. Pressure wash and shampoo
2. Ultimate Elastrofoam Clay + UWW as Clay Lube
3. Menzerna FG400 on a rotary. Wool pads for correction and then finish with foam pads.
4. Meguiar's Final inspection as an IPA to remove all polishing oils
5. Apply 601 and allow it to haze for 5 minutes
6. Apply 105 on top of it and allow it to haze for 5 minutes and then remove

If any of the steps seem like an overkill, please let me know.

You can do 5 and 6 like that or you may want to mix 1 part 601 to 4 parts 105 and save a step. Just mix well. I personally would do a 601/501 after the Menzerna and skip the Final Inspection. The 501 would allow for a good base for the 105. The mix for 601/501 is the same as above. To me the less inter mingling of different products the better.

Dave

Dave