Duragloss Photo Thread

silvermesa

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Feel free to post photos of your vehicles with Duragloss products so others may see what is possible on their color of vehicle.

A few weeks ago, I was interested in trying Duragloss 105 and 111 on my white vehicle. It was a bit difficult to find photos on this site or on the web with photos of the above products used on similar color vehicles. Thought this might help this forum.

I ended up trying both Duragloss 105 and 111 out to test to see which one I preferred.My vehicle is 9 years old and has lived outside 24/7. It has 196,000 miles. The paint is pretty much swirl free.

Method:
I cleaned iron deposits off of my paint with iron x and used tar x to remove tar. Duragloss 601/501 in 1:4 ratio was used to clean the paint. Then Duragloss 601/105 in 1:4 ratio was used on rear door. Duragloss 601/111 was used on all other panels.

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Duragloss 105 on rear door and Duragloss 111 on all other panels. Photo taken 1 day after application with no topper of Duragloss 951.


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Same details as above photo.


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Same details as top two photos. Duragloss 105 on rear door and Duragloss 111 on front door. At times, depending on the light I thought I could see maybe 10% more gloss on Duragloss 111. However 90% of the time I could see no difference.


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The above photo was taken 1 week after Duragloss 105 and 111 application. The vehicle was washed with Optimum car wash soap then dried with blower. Duragloss 951 was applied to a dry vehicle. Photo was taken 1 day after application of Duragloss 951.

White is difficult color to photograph. If I took a photo when the sun is high in the sky, white will wash out. Photos taken when the sun is lower and warmer will bring out greater gloss.

I am pleased with using Duragloss. I like the fact that 501 can be used without having to strip the previous LSP which is a time saver. In lower light situations and on rainy days my paint can look like glass. At times it really glows. I have been searching for 1.5 years for a product that works well with my white truck. I'm pretty darn pleased.

As I have learned from this forum, the preparation getting paint swirl free and clean is 90-95% of making it look its best. The LSP is the final 5-10%.

Hopefully this thread will help others with what their paint may look like with this product once swirl free and clean.
 
I like the idea of this thread and I will be back to post my pics soon. (I'm at work right now. Working. lol) I am in love with the Duragloss products. They are nicely priced, extremely easy to use even in sun, and work like a dream.
 
The best bang for your detailing buck bar none. 501, 105, 111 and aquawax all amazing products.

Just goes to show you can't judge a book by its cover or price.
 
The best bang for your detailing buck bar none. 501, 105, 111 and aquawax all amazing products.

Just goes to show you can't judge a book by its cover or price.

Absolutely!!
:props:
 
BobbyG- You're the man that got me on the Duragloss bandwagon. You posted directions using various DG products from wash to Aquawax. Ever since, it has been my recipe to success. Thank you my brother!
 
View attachment 17526
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Pics of my 13 Durango Black Top with 601/105, topped with 845 and final wipe with D156.

Question if you do 601/501 and then top with 601/105 does the second application of 601 remove 501? 601's description states it preps and removes old waxes, so is it removing the previously applied 501 when you apply it with 105?

Maybe skip the 601 in the application of 105?
 
Here is my Mercedes ML350 with Duragloss. I washed it with CGs Clear shampoo, clayed with Griot's mild clay bar and Speed Shine lube, washed again and polished with P21s Paintwork Cleanser. I used 601/105 with Griot's 6" polisher followed by 601/111. The paint was perfect and I could have skipped the 105 entirely and gone with 111 only (which is pure sealant). The following day I topped it all off with two coats of 845 insulator wax which was probably overkill but I wanted to try it - great stuff! Actually, the 111 (or even the 105) could have been my LSP.

The car gets a weekly wash (whether it needs it or not) followed by a "topper" of AquaWax. The ML 350 is a garage queen and I bet I could get a year's worth of protection here in the no winter/salt/sand part of Texas where I live, although that is not a factor since I detail every two or three months. I bet you could still get six months even in the north as long as you top with something like AquaWax or OCW after washings. Hard to beat Duragloss for performance and value.
 
You should change the name of thread to "post your white pictures of white vehicles" haha. Ill post a white silverado in a minute.
 
View attachment 17526
View attachment 17527
View attachment 17528
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Pics of my 13 Durango Black Top with 601/105, topped with 845 and final wipe with D156.

Question if you do 601/501 and then top with 601/105 does the second application of 601 remove 501? 601's description states it preps and removes old waxes, so is it removing the previously applied 501 when you apply it with 105?

Maybe skip the 601 in the application of 105?

I don't think it is strong enough to remove 501. 601 mainly flash cures the surface so you can top it right away. I always use 601 with 105 so I can top immediately with something else after that such as a carnauba wax.
 
Question if you do 601/501 and then top with 601/105 does the second application of 601 remove 501? 601's description states it preps and removes old waxes, so is it removing the previously applied 501 when you apply it with 105?

Maybe skip the 601 in the application of 105?

My experience has been that it removes low grade waxes, waxes with no real durability, and spray wax.
 
This thread has me wondering... My buddy has a pretty rare vehicle, a white '95 Pontiac Firehawk. I'll be detailing it next weekend in preparation to sell. Having white paint, should I hurry up and pick up some Duragloss products, or would you say just work with what I have on hand?
 
I can't post pics from my cellphone right now but I can speak highly about DG products for sure, couldn't be happier with the results I've gotten since trying #111 last year for the 1st time, then getting #101 and AW, the later had me buying/using 3 bottles last year! This year I used #501 for the 1st time and it really cleaned my paint VERY WELL after claying the winters grime off, couldn't be happier and was surprised at how much dirt was on my applicator and this was after claying, so it really does its thing right there! I mixed #601 w/ the #501 and did the car twice, left the 1st coat on and then, w/o removing, went right over the top w/ a 2nd coat and then removed and it worked great for me!

Then I moved onto DG #105/601 and this combo produced the "pop" I was lookikng for, another great product from DG. Has less cleaners in it and could be used as a stand alone or LSP by itself but that's not what I was looking to do and finished with DG #111 as its a pure sealant with NO cleaners and because of the previous 2 steps, the DG #111 really looked spectacular on my metallic paint!

This is a great thread idea and many future DG users will come here for all the motivation and info on one of the best product lines out there, all answers and info can and will be had right here!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
This thread has me wondering... My buddy has a pretty rare vehicle, a white '95 Pontiac Firehawk. I'll be detailing it next weekend in preparation to sell. Having white paint, should I hurry up and pick up some Duragloss products, or would you say just work with what I have on hand?

Hey Y2K,

If he's selling it and you wanna wake up that finish, the #501 will be a good place to start for sure, mixing in some #601 makes it that much better. I know some here have used it as an AIO and since he's selling the car right away, it would be more than enough for the next owner, works great on glass too. If you don't have the #601 no sweat but remember, this product doesn't really correct that much based off of what 8've read about it but should be able to do some minor corrections, guess its just how the paint looks.

Let's see some pics of the Firehawk when your done with it too!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
View attachment 17526
View attachment 17527
View attachment 17528
View attachment 17529

Pics of my 13 Durango Black Top with 601/105, topped with 845 and final wipe with D156.

Question if you do 601/501 and then top with 601/105 does the second application of 601 remove 501? 601's description states it preps and removes old waxes, so is it removing the previously applied 501 when you apply it with 105?

Maybe skip the 601 in the application of 105?

Contacted DG and asked same question. Response was to use 601 on the first application of 501 or 105. You can layer 105 and there is no need to use 601 on the second application of 105.
 
Contacted DG and asked same question. Response was to use 601 on the first application of 501 or 105. You can layer 105 and there is no need to use 601 on the second application of 105.

I thought that was the case and it makes sense. Why would you need a bonding agent after the first coat since the bonding to the paint has been accomplished? Unless you badly missed some sections of the vehicle, a second "bond" would not be needed and additional coats of 105 or 111 would be for appearance layering only.
 
This is good info about #601 and will save product useage of it, thanks guys!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
501 even without 601 is very good all by itself. For a daily driver 501 is all you need.
 
I thought that was the case and it makes sense. Why would you need a bonding agent after the first coat since the bonding to the paint has been accomplished? Unless you badly missed some sections of the vehicle, a second "bond" would not be needed and additional coats of 105 or 111 would be for appearance layering only.

They call it a bonding agent but in reality, from what I understand, it flash cures the sealant so you can top it immediately. I always want that last coat to always flash cure because sometimes I can't keep the car in the garage to cure overnight.

I usually do 601/501, 601/105, then top with either aquawax or a quality carnauba wax. If you don't use 601 for the second coat then you can't top with something else right away.
 
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