Duragloss Process??

Well when I applied DG105 to my existing coat of Zaino Z-AIO, it didn't remove the Zaino at all. In fact, it bonded and dried on top of the Zaino extremely quickly. I guess it depends on the existing protection.

I am going to do an alcohol/water wipe-down on the hood of my Subaru (dark gray metallic) and split the hood 50/50 with tape, one side a coat of just Z-AIO and another side a coat of DG105 and see how it looks. I already did this test last night on my G35's hood (black car) and the Z-AIO side made the black look brilliant. The DG side looked like it didn't have anything on it at all.

I'll even post some pictures for you; not sure if the camera will capture the differences but we'll see.
 
Emile said:
Well when I applied DG105 to my existing coat of Zaino Z-AIO, it didn't remove the Zaino at all.
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Please do not mistake my inquisitory nature as disputing your statement but, how did you come to the conlcusion that the 105 did not remove the ZAIO?
 
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MotorCity Honda said:
Please do not mistake in inquisitory nature as disputing your statement but, how did you come to the conlcusion that the 105 did not remove the ZAIO?
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I was going to ask the same thing. The other comment on had was that Zaino is a completely different animal. If the 105 didn't remove the Z, I wouldn't be surprised. Z is very durable, so I wouldn't make the assumption that 106 wouldn't remove any LSP.

Please don't read any tone into my message as I don't intend any.
 
Maybe DG105 can remove a carnauba wax or some other products but when I applied it to a clean Zaino-ed surface, it definitely didn't remove anything. It was easy to tell because my hood still had that Zaino shine whereas DG105 looks like ass.

I just wiped down the hood of my Trubaru and taped the hood down the middle. Let me go apply DG105 and Z-AIO.
 
wifey's car 2 weeks ago after JUST a wash and DG105 with a black 6.5 pad.

IMG_5196-1-1.jpg

IMG_5197.jpg
 
Looks great! See you dont need a bunch of products to have nice paint.
 
Ok just order some Duragloss gear for the winter since I’ve heard lots of good stuff about their durability. I’m also going to top it off with Collinite #845.
• Polish Bonding Agent #601
• Total Performance Polish #105
• Aquawax #951
The question is after I apply DG#601 wait till it haze then apply DG#105 then I would remove both products at the same time. What’s the cure time of DG#105? Cause I want to top the vehicle off with Collinte#845. And what’s the cure time of Collinite#845?
Feed back please
 
sciontest said:
And what’s the cure time of Collinite#845?
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I have read various answers to this question on the various detailing forums: 12 hours is the typical answer one finds. I wrote Collinite directly and asked them if there was an optimal waiting time before applying a second coat. I received this answer: a minimum of 30 minutes. Go figure.

BTW, the Collinite website recommends 60-85 degrees as the optimal temperature range for applying their waxes. "Using the product when the temperature is less than 60 degrees," it says, "could result in streaking or difficulty in removing the product from the finish." I had streaking problems last week when applying it at around 55 degrees. Maybe it was just me. Maybe I didn't let it set up long enough. I don't know. But I thought I'd pass the info on.
 
dublife, what is that ugly thing you refer to as your wife's car?

I'm going to polish my cars and lay a coat of DG105 on them, and then seal it with Z-CS. Should be an ultra-durable combo for the winter months and the many machine washes to come.
 
akimel said:
I have read various answers to this question on the various detailing forums: 12 hours is the typical answer one finds. I wrote Collinite directly and asked them if there was an optimal waiting time before applying a second coat. I received this answer: a minimum of 30 minutes. Go figure.

BTW, the Collinite website recommends 60-85 degrees as the optimal temperature range for applying their waxes. "Using the product when the temperature is less than 60 degrees," it says, "could result in streaking or difficulty in removing the product from the finish." I had streaking problems last week when applying it at around 55 degrees. Maybe it was just me. Maybe I didn't let it set up long enough. I don't know. But I thought I'd pass the info on.
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thanks for the useful info.
 
to see if the 105 removes a sealant like zaino on the paint..try this....take a sharpie marker and mark a test panel..then after it dries..apply Zaino over the marker...let it cure the recommended time...then by hand apply the 105 over the zaino..if the sharpie is removed then it cleaned the zaino off..if the sharpie remains..then the cleaners in 105 did not remove the zaino....I have done it..now to see your results...the cleaner in 105 is very mild...


AL
 
Emile said:
dublife, what is that ugly thing you refer to as your wife's car?

I'm going to polish my cars and lay a coat of DG105 on them, and then seal it with Z-CS. Should be an ultra-durable combo for the winter months and the many machine washes to come.
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Emile, are you willing to let me try a sample of that Z-CS? been reading alot about it and would like to try it be4 I buy. I have alot of products I can send you a sample of in return. Watcha wana do?
 
drastic, I got around 2-3 ounces left in my current bottle, which should be good for a nice juicy coat on well over 6 cars. Send me a private message for your shipping address and it's all yours.

I think I've said this before but DG105 did not remove my existing coat of Zaino on my G35. It actually makes DG105 dry up SUPER fast on top of the Zaino (10-15 minutes at room temp and it's FULLY dry).

I polished the Subaru the other night and I applied DG105 last night and buffed it off. This evening I sprayed some Z-6 quick detailer for a final buff, after letting the DG105 cure for 24 hours and it had a crazy effect. The DG105 was barely letting the Z-6 quick detailer sit on the surface....I did not expect DG105 to be so strong at repelling a quick detailer !!
 
Ok about a month ago central Illinois had a nice day in November I wash and prepped my Subaru with duragloss for the winter. I used DG#601 topped that with DG#105 I had a hard time buffing it off the vehicle (since I’m use to using wolfgang DGPS easy on easy off) I let it cure over night about 12-14 hours. When I got to work that’s when the sun came out I’ve seen the pattern of how I buffed off the DG product. Is that what people mean by hologram? If so how is it corrected? Or is it that I have not applied enough pressure while buffing? I went over the car 3 times buffing off the DG#601 with DG#105. Where did I go wrong. Well yesterday was a pretty nice day in IL I decided to wash the car to get the road salt off and I still see it. This is really troubling me.
Feed back please
 
sciontest said:
Ok about a month ago central Illinois had a nice day in November I wash and prepped my Subaru with duragloss for the winter. I used DG#601 topped that with DG#105 I had a hard time buffing it off the vehicle (since I’m use to using wolfgang DGPS easy on easy off) I let it cure over night about 12-14 hours. When I got to work that’s when the sun came out I’ve seen the pattern of how I buffed off the DG product. Is that what people mean by hologram? If so how is it corrected? Or is it that I have not applied enough pressure while buffing? I went over the car 3 times buffing off the DG#601 with DG#105. Where did I go wrong. Well yesterday was a pretty nice day in IL I decided to wash the car to get the road salt off and I still see it. This is really troubling me.
Feed back please
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I never had this problem..and mostly all I use is the Dg products....did you use alot on the paint..I use about 3/4 of a ounce to do my truck and maybe a 1/2 oz doing a car...

if put on to thick and them wiped off..you left alot of still wet product on the paint.....it seems if it was hard to buff off..either it did not haze enough..or to thick on the paint and was some left over causing the streaks you see....

A QD should eliminate them and get the remainder of the product off....

remember...very thin applications..I men THIN...

When applied thin...you can almost blow the residue off its so easy to remove....


Al
 
You guys are making this way to hard. You don't need 501. It's a waste of time if you ask me. Especially if you are using #601 under #105. #601 will clean, so why use #501?

Here is what I do:

Wash
Clay
Apply #601 to whole vehicle.
Apply #105 to whole vehicle.
Wait 30 minutes then remove.
Apply AW after 24 hrs or after the first wash.

Done. Simple as that an you will have great protection and looks throughout the winter.
 
To be honest..501 will clean paint much better than 601...601 was made to clean off old waxes and sealants....501 will deep clean paint...it will remove oxidation thats how strong it is

Al
 
I have not used any DG products other than AW, which is great. Could someone please explain the purposes and differences between 501, 101, 105, and 111?
 
jake66 said:
I have not used any DG products other than AW, which is great. Could someone please explain the purposes and differences between 501, 101, 105, and 111?
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heres my take on it....

111 is the sort of a pure sealant...lightest cleaning of them all..it says right on my box..cleans shines protects....but cleaner is very minimal at best....more of a Klasse SG look..very glossy....

105...a sealant with a cleaner..again very light cleaner..will not remove a new cured sealer...has a warmer look since it is a polymer resin combo..made to mimic a waxed looked

101..a cleaner sealant again...a stronger cleaning action than 105....provides a wetter look....

501...strongest cleaner sealant I have used....stuff will remove brake dust...auto emission grime that's deep in the paint..brings white paint to a new level in being white...but does for all other colors also..just white shows how good it cleans..but it is a sealant also..and very durable..can be used as a stand alone product...has a wet glossy look...very slick also....

Al
 
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