Duragloss ?'s... new to detailing

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farmernick

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I've been reading on the forums for a couple of weeks and I'm a little overwhelmed with the info. I like to keep my truck and wife's SUV looking good but I am a farmer so things get dirty very quickly. I also have multiple tractors and semis that need washing and waxing. Because of time and workload I am only able to get a good wax on the farm equipment twice a year. Being new to this detailing process I have bought the detailers sealant and collinite 845 bundle from AG. Being that a lot of the paint on the tractors and trucks have been neglected I would like to polish them. Our tractors are red so with alot of sun they fade to pink.

That being the background on the jobs I have questions on the duragloss line. It seems inexpensive and guys like the job it does.

A good Polish to clean paint and give a nice shine?

Is the duragloss wash a good product?

Is the marine rv line something to look at?

If I seal and wax twice a year is there a product to do in-between that will help the durability and is also easy to use such as a wash and wax?

And just because I know it will come up I don't have and will Not be getting a Da polisher.
 
Just curious you said you are pinched for time, so why not get a DA polisher, as it will save you time? Duragloss shampoo is a very good product to answer your question. Never used there polish or marine RV line.
 
DG 501 would suit the bill for you. It's a fantastic paint cleaner and offers super protection good for several months.

I live in snow country. This product goes on everything in the fall. Even stands up to local car washes. Your paint is not really clean until you apply this product. Clean paint produces incredible shine.

It is designed for boats. Imagine the conditions boats have to endure.

DG 901 in my opinion is the best car shampoo for the money on the market. I've tried dozens and this is a no brainier.
 
Grab some of their car wash concentrate, 501 marine and rv polish, polish bonding agent, and finally use aquawax about every other wash to boost the protection you already have on there.

Since you already have collonite 845, I'd clean the paint with DG 501 then top it with 845. Very durable combo right there.
 
The time comment was more or less because We are so busy in the spring and fall I only have a chance in the summer and winter and then It's more or less when it rains or snows out.

I'm Not against a polisher im just Not there yet. Start with the basics and a line of wax and sealant and Polish that I can both use by hand and a polisher.
 
Clay 2x a year , then wash and dry with aqua wax......easiest way to go for non detailers...
 
Is their interior line just as good as the exterior stuff?

My wife's car has leather and my truck has cloth. I have a bottle of Mothers VLR. Should I keep using that or should I switch to something different. Also read that armorall is a no no for the dash. Is this correct?
 
farmernick said:
Is their interior line just as good as the exterior stuff?

My wife's car has leather and my truck has cloth. I have a bottle of Mothers VLR. Should I keep using that or should I switch to something different. Also read that armorall is a no no for the dash. Is this correct?
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The entire Duragloss line is nothing short of amazing. Every single product from them that I have tried does what it says, for a fraction of the price of most other brands.

You aren't going to be disappointed. Their leather conditioner is almost identical to zaino's, which is very good.
 
Hello!

I grew up on a farm in Missouri and this summer I used Duragloss 501 and a Lake Country 5.5" flat white pad on my Dad's John Deere Tractor that is about 10 years old. I found that the above combo did not have enough cut to rid the paint of the oxidation created over 10 years of no paint care. I did use Meguiars M205 with the above white pad using about 4 section passes and got much better results. A definite improvement. However, I was not going for 100% scratch removal.

I did test spots with these products on the roof first and finally came up with my final game plan of using M205 with orange pad (gives a bit more cut than white pad) then followed up with a white pad and Duragloss 501. I then finished with Duragloss 951 Spray wax.

So, with a tractor with not much oxidation I might start with Duragloss 501 then go to Duragloss 951. By the way, in a conversation with Jerry at Duragloss, this was his suggestion for the single stage paint on my Dad's tractor.

I would recommend a D/A Polisher. This is basic gear and necessary to keeping your tractor and auto paint in good shape. I have Griots Garage GG6 D/A Polisher Version 2 and it has been great. Meguiars makes a good one as well. Lake Country 5.5" flat pads in orange, white, black and blue work well.It would not be a bad idea to get 4 of each pad because you will eventually use them all on your different projects.

I do use Duragloss 501 and Duragloss 111 along with 951 spray wax as a topper on my truck and am very happy with this combination. I've searched for the last two years for a good combination on my white truck and this is the best I've tried. Thread below with photos.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/63669-duragloss-photo-thread.html

I spoke to my friend who farms in North Missouri and has quite a bit of experience with detailing his red Case International Tractors. He uses Meguiars M205 for a compound and Meguiars #26 Wax. I have read where this is a well known wax that some people, especially with red single stage paint really like. This wax is not the latest and greatest product with all the hype on the forum but evidently is established and has some following.
He also told me that sometimes when red gets so oxidized it will turn whitish in color. He had to repaint a 7140 Magnum tractor this spring due to the paint being so thin and oxidized. He repainted the tractor then added clear coat.

Below is a photo of my Dad's John Deere Tractor with single stage paint.The top of the fender has been buffed with M205 and a white pad. Lower on the fender, it has not been buffed and shows the oxidation level. This will give you an idea of what this combo can do.

IMG_2917.JPG



The photo below shows the fibreglass roof that had a lot of oxidation. This roof had a lot of black mildew on it during power washing that needed to come off. The area to the right of the bottle has been buffed with M205 and white pad. The area around the chord has not been buffed and you can see the scratches. Note green paint on pad shows that this tractor has single stage paint.
IMG_2915.JPG
 
You should get Duragloss #501 for your paint cleaner/sealant. I would top that with Duragloss #105 or Colonite 845. That will easily last 6 months, maybe a year if you use the Duragloss bonding agent also (601). Duragloss 501 is my favorite product. I use it almost every detail. The Colonite is an amazing product as well. It beads water like crazy.
 
Welcome to the forum. I am just chiming in to agree with all the advise you have been given. I am a huge DG fan. It's cheap, easy to work with in sun and shade, and provides great protection and looks.
I also agree that getting a DA is a must. It will save even more time with the DG products, not to mention saving your arms and hands. The Harbor Freight (HF) version is under $60 and works very well for a part-time detailer\farmer. You can get it on-line if there is no store near you.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
My approach would be in this order with a DA or Rotary. Oxidized paint or fiberglass is a long tedious job by hand with subpar results

1. DG 652
2. DG 601/501
3. DG 601/105

Maintain with
DG 901
DG 932 between washes, also mixed as a qd.
DG 952 Aqua Wax
DG Marine RV detail spray

If the oxidation is severe
DG 561

And a bunch of MF towels with a few Guzzlers thrown in there

This combo will give a year plus of protection

Dave
 
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