Duragloss...where did I go wrong?

I

Ipsdrew

New member
Joined
Oct 20, 2011
Messages
138
Reaction score
0
I finally put some Duragloss 501/601/105 on my last order to use on my bosses farm truck, a black 2009 GMC 2500 HD. Started with my normal wash
-foamed with Hyperwash
-2bm with gold class
-dry with waffle weave
-decon with Nanoskin sponge (blue-fine)
-used Brinkman to assess paint

At this paint there was light swirling but the boss wasn't concerned since this is a work truck, he was looking for long lasting protection. I mixed up the 501/601 and 105/601 in small 3oz bottles at 4:1 as recommended (1/2oz 601 with 2oz 501 or 105)

Grabbed the GG6 and a couple of new green CCS pads. Did a test spot on the hood on speed 5, 2 passes with light pressure, 1 pass with no pressure, medium arm speed. Wiped it down after it hazed and the spot looked good (noticeable improvement in gloss and slickness, slight correction of the areas with light swirling) I continued to polish the rest of the truck (switching pads half way through and cleaning the pad after every panel) and all seemed well. Switched over to work on the interior for about an hour before going back the exterior.

Then I grabbed the 105/601 with new CCS white polishing pads and continued with the same procedure as the 501/601 (speed 5, 3 total passes, medium arm speed) After doing the entire truck I wiped it down, couple of the areas did require a little elbow grease because of excess product but it wasn't bad. Checked the paint from different angles to look for any areas that didn't wipe clean and couldn't find any. Called it a day.

Came out the next morning and noticed several spots all over the truck that looked like they hadn't been wiped down. Was a bit confused so I grabbed the waterless wash and rewiped the entire truck, the spots were gone and it sparkled in the morning sun. Fast forward 3 hours and the boss was backing the trailer up to the building. The midday sun hit the truck and my mouth dropped. The truck was covered with what appeared to be buffer trails and haze, I was dumbfounded. Needless to say I'll be making the 3 hour drive up to his farm this weekend or next to make it right but I'm trying to figure out where I went wrong.

I know pics would be a huge help in situations like this but the boss was already 2 hours late getting on the road so I didn't get a chance
 
You need to use 501 with a white pad and use 105 with a finishing pad that has no cut. This has always worked for me. Or better yet apply 105 by hand. Was it very humid when you applied either one? That will make it steak bad. Maybe the holograms were already there?
 
Ipsdrew said:
I finally put some Duragloss 501/601/105 on my last order to use on my bosses farm truck, a black 2009 GMC 2500 HD. Started with my normal wash
-foamed with Hyperwash
-2bm with gold class
-dry with waffle weave
-decon with Nanoskin sponge (blue-fine)
-used Brinkman to assess paint

At this paint there was light swirling but the boss wasn't concerned since this is a work truck, he was looking for long lasting protection. I mixed up the 501/601 and 105/601 in small 3oz bottles at 4:1 as recommended (1/2oz 601 with 2oz 501 or 105)

Grabbed the GG6 and a couple of new green CCS pads. Did a test spot on the hood on speed 5, 2 passes with light pressure, 1 pass with no pressure, medium arm speed. Wiped it down after it hazed and the spot looked good (noticeable improvement in gloss and slickness, slight correction of the areas with light swirling) I continued to polish the rest of the truck (switching pads half way through and cleaning the pad after every panel) and all seemed well. Switched over to work on the interior for about an hour before going back the exterior.

Then I grabbed the 105/601 with new CCS white polishing pads and continued with the same procedure as the 501/601 (speed 5, 3 total passes, medium arm speed) After doing the entire truck I wiped it down, couple of the areas did require a little elbow grease because of excess product but it wasn't bad. Checked the paint from different angles to look for any areas that didn't wipe clean and couldn't find any. Called it a day.

Came out the next morning and noticed several spots all over the truck that looked like they hadn't been wiped down. Was a bit confused so I grabbed the waterless wash and rewiped the entire truck, the spots were gone and it sparkled in the morning sun. Fast forward 3 hours and the boss was backing the trailer up to the building. The midday sun hit the truck and my mouth dropped. The truck was covered with what appeared to be buffer trails and haze, I was dumbfounded. Needless to say I'll be making the 3 hour drive up to his farm this weekend or next to make it right but I'm trying to figure out where I went wrong.

I know pics would be a huge help in situations like this but the boss was already 2 hours late getting on the road so I didn't get a chance
Click to expand...

Practice makes perfect, just a detailing related learning lesson. It's a technique issue.
 
Your process looked good to me.

501 is a very intense cleaner with very little to no correction abilities and leaves some protection, it was designed to remove heavy oxidation in the marine field but was found that it can really clean auto paint with no ill affects.

105 also has some cleaning abilities but leaves a sealant type protection behind.

What happened is that you really cleaned the paint and sealed it..

Did you look at your work in the sun between steps?

You should have seen the true paint condition after the wash.

If he did not want correction and some long lasting protection you did exactly what he wanted.
 
I was hoping the 501 just uncovered the holograms that the dealer "detail" may have installed last year.
Temps were cool, upper 50's with low humidity and the work was done in the garage. I think when I go to correct it I'll hit it with some D151 and apply the 105 by hand.
Is it normal for the 105 to appear oily when applying?

Sent from my HTCONE using AG Online
 
dad07 said:
Your process looked good to me.

501 is a very intense cleaner with very little to no correction abilities and leaves some protection, it was designed to remove heavy oxidation in the marine field but was found that it can really clean auto paint with no ill affects.

105 also has some cleaning abilities but leaves a sealant type protection behind.

What happened is that you really cleaned the paint and sealed it..

Did you look at your work in the sun between steps?

You should have seen the true paint condition after the wash.

If he did not want correction and some long lasting protection you did exactly what he wanted.
Click to expand...

I used my brinkman to look at the paint after the wash/clay but didn't inspect again after the 501.

The boss said the truck looked fine and not to worry but I can't live with it and need to make it right. It's a reflection of my work and needs to be done correctly.

Sent from my HTCONE using AG Online
 
You always need to do a test spot first. Was the paint hard or soft?

IMO I would have done 501/601 with a white polished pad at speed 4 and removed after it dried to a haze. Then do a final wipe with aquawax. 501 is good for 5-6 months on its own. Two things I think went wrong, DA speed was high and 105 should have been used with a finishing pad. I think you should try 105/601 with a finishing pad to remove the haze with speed 3-4.

I recently did a black Nissan Maxima that took about 20 mins to find the right pad/product combo. Settled on CCS red finishing with HD cut.
 
I did a test spot with the 501 on the hood but didn't see any ill effects. The paint isn't the hardest I've worked on but it leans to the hard side.
I'll remember to use the polishing pad with the 501 and a finishing pad with the 105 next time. I was under the impression I could use the green pads I use with most of my other AIO's

Sent from my HTCONE using AG Online
 
Ipsdrew said:
I was hoping the 501 just uncovered the holograms that the dealer "detail" may have installed last year.
Click to expand...

So you are seeing actual holograms from a rotary buffer and not in the pattern of where you're DA polisher traveled across the paint?

Makes total sense to me that you may have done just what you thought, uncovered someone else's mess.

At the same time, I've observed trails of hazing or just cleaner areas or perhaps even the 501 sealant part left trails behind my polisher if not worked a certain way and wiped off a certain way. It takes me a few trials to get it just right each time I use Duragloss polishes.

Seems a bit finicky to me, but awesome when I get the right technique dialed in with it.
 
I had a similar problem when I detailed my neighbor's black Camry. When we got it out in the sunlight, she said, ''What's that?" It looked like buffer marks. I took some Klasse AIO I had handy and rubbed it by hand and poof, gone. Then it happened again on another friends car. The cure the second time was going over it again with some Duragloss 105. It looked perfect afterwards. I used the Griots also on speed 3 with 501 and LC white flat pads. I used a black pad with the 105.
 
Not speaking about the DG products but more about the pads used.

You say you used the white pad AFTER the green one, right? White has more cut than green, day in, day out. If anything, any haze/micromarring that showed up later could very well be induced by cutting after polishing. Just guessing.
 
We all have opinions but, if it was me, the first thing I would do is wipe down one panel that shows the haze with IPA and make sure its not product you are looking at. You need to find out for sure its "in the paint", not "on the paint".

If its "on the paint" then you need to strip it off and start over one panel at a time.

If its "in the paint" you need to polish the car with a dedicated polish to remove the defects. Start with a test spot.

Honestly, my guess is its "on the paint", just by what happened. If its "in the paint", something went wrong with your pads or technique, as the product itself shouldn't do that if used correctly.
 
cardaddy said:
Not speaking about the DG products but more about the pads used.

You say you used the white pad AFTER the green one, right? White has more cut than green, day in, day out. If anything, any haze/micromarring that showed up later could very well be induced by cutting after polishing. Just guessing.
Click to expand...

That could be a key piece to the puzzle. When I stocked up on pads last year I was misinformed on the cut, I was told the green pads had slightly more cut than the white pads and I never consulted the Lake Country chart to confirm which was my mistake. I've always seen more correction when polishing with the green (maybe because they don't absorb polish as fast and keep it on the paint) so I never really questioned it. I guess the first step is going to be an ipa wipe down.
If it turns out the hazing and swirling is "on the paint" will I be able to remove it with a proper application of 501 or 105 with the proper pad?

Sent from my HTCONE using AG Online
 
I would think so. I would try using a black LC pad with 105 or 501 with light to no pressure.
 
Yep, "on the paint" is nothing more than IPA or Eraser to help clean that off then go with the softest/lightest cutting pad you can possibly use to get the results you're looking for.

It's easy to keep adding more cut if you need it, although cut will hide your final finish, ergo; use the least aggressive method possible and work backwards from there. (As said by a much smarter man than me on the subject.) ;)
 
I made the trip up North this morning to take a second look at the truck and to my surprise it looked much better than when it left. Boss said he went through a two hour downpour earlier this week which may have helped remove any excess product that was left on the paint. First thing I did was use some quick detailer to gently wipe the front quarter panel clean and backed it out into the sun to inspect. The "buffer trails" were gone but there was still some hazing and lines of excess 105 around the body contours. I then give it a rinseless wash (DP rinseless wash and gloss) to find any other problem areas. Luckily I was able to gently rub the high spots and level them out. Checked it a couple hours later and none of the spots returned like they did the first time around. I'll get to sleep easy tonight knowing it's once again shining like it should be!


Sent from my HTCONE using AG Online
 
Yeah its all about pad choice right here and I know its "water under the bridge" at this point but since DG #501 and #105 have no correction ability, next time, just apply it by hand, no matter what size the ride. I hope this didn't taint your opinion of DG, the products you've used are amongst the easiest to use out there and when working on acres of metal like that truck, well, easier is good.....REAL GOOD!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Klasse Act said:
Yeah its all about pad choice right here and I know its "water under the bridge" at this point but since DG #501 and #105 have no correction ability, next time, just apply it by hand, no matter what size the ride. I hope this didn't taint your opinion of DG, the products you've used are amongst the easiest to use out there and when working on acres of metal like that truck, well, easier is good.....REAL GOOD!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
Click to expand...

Every new product has a learning curve so I'm not turned off in the least. I'll just have to decide if I like the DG 501/105 combo or Klasse AIO/KSG combo better :xyxthumbs:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top