Duragloss ?

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bandgeek99

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Hey, I've been looking around for the answer but haven't been satisfied with what I've found.

I realize now I made a mistake some time ago when I ordered my Duragloss 101 & 105, as I should have bought the 501, 601, and 105 instead. AG can't get it here fast enough (and was backordered when they could have and I realized my mistake), and NAPA doesn't carry 501 and 601 so I could have ordered a case, but I wasn't ready to make that kind of committment yet.

Tomorrow is the day (due to work schedule and the season change) that I have to start my winter protection detail. The plan was Duragloss and Collinite IW, but I need a cleaner/AIO product to strip the still working 4* UPP/LS combo I applied in July.

So, can I use DG101 & 105, and if so how long of a cure does the 101 need before I top with the 105? Does 101 clean well (better than the 105)? If I can't do 101 and since 105 doesn't clean that well, what can I do instead? Just go back to the old stand-by Klasse?

Thanks for any help! :buffing:
 
hopefully one of the Duragloss fans will chime in with some hints. I too was thinking either a polish, iso wipe, or Klasse AIO for the cleaning paint and removing old wax.
 
If you have a CarQuest in your area, give them a ring, they sell Duragloss products.
 
Never used 101, I can't remember...is that the bonding agent? Klasse AIO would be fine, and then 105 and 845 after.
 
DG 105 has only mild cleaning abilities and will probably not remove existing protection, or at least some will be removed. DG 101 probably will, but I'd do a 50:50 alcohol:water wipe-down or Klasse AIO just to be sure.

I am not sure about cure times, but I noticed that after I buff off DG 105, it takes about an hour or two until the shine really comes through. I let it cure over night before applying another product on top.
 
Use Klasse AIO, DG 101, or DG 501 , to clean the paint.Put on DG105. Next day put on second coat of 105 or a Collinite wax if desired, but not nessesary. Follow once a month with Aqua Wax , and you should be good all winter.
 
So, it sounds like 101 will work and there is no cure time before the 105?

Does anyone know how well 105 goes over 101? In other words if I just did the alcy-water strip then 101 then 105, is that any better or worse then just alcy-water then 105?

Also, I have an email into Duragloss for extra verification.
 
I emailed Duragloss about two weeks ago and asked them about topping 105 with a carnauba wax. They disapproved of the practice, stating that it would interfere with 105's durability.

Don't know if everyone's experience chimes with this or not, but I thought I would pass it on.
 
bandgeek99 said:
Is the Collinite 845 nauba based?
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As I understand it, nobody but Collinite knows the proprietary formula. 845 certainly has carnauba in it, per the Collinite website. A lot of folks around the internet detailing world believe that it is a carnauba-synthetic hybrid of some sort. The AutoGeek store has it grouped with synthetic sealants, for example.

I can undertand layering with different waxes/sealants in order to achieve a certain look; but I don't understand the practice if durability is a principal concern. If 105's look is acceptable, wouldn't it be best to go through the winter months with two layers of 105 than with one layer of 105 and a
nother layer of _____? Similarly, wouldn't it be best to go through the winter months with two layers of 845 than one layer of 845 and another layer of _____? Just asking ...

Al
 
killrwheels@autogeek said:
hopefully one of the Duragloss fans will chime in with some hints. I too was thinking either a polish, iso wipe, or Klasse AIO for the cleaning paint and removing old wax.
Click to expand...

Can't 601 just be used? Isn't it's purpose is to clean the wax andact as a bonding agent?

Howard
 
My theory with applying Collinite over DG105 is durability. For the winter months, I'm not *as* concerned with looks as I am protection from contaminants. Therefore, I assume the IW would act essentially as a sacrificial layer. As my car is hit with contaminants and such the IW would wear. Once gone, I still have DG105 underneath. And thus with the right cleaners/spray waxes/etc I can keep the protection going for as long as necessary within reason.

My understanding is that 601 is bonding agent only. My understanding is that 501 cleans (and sort-of seals), 601 bonds & adds durability, and 105 is the topper for looks and protection.

Also, I just got a reply from Duragloss:
101 and 105 will give you the cleaners you need. For added durability use 601 first. This is all your would need to get the protection you are looking for. Allow overnight curing between polishes.
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akimel said:
I emailed Duragloss about two weeks ago and asked them about topping 105 with a carnauba wax. They disapproved of the practice, stating that it would interfere with 105's durability.

Don't know if everyone's experience chimes with this or not, but I thought I would pass it on.
Click to expand...
I like Duragloss, but that sounds funny to me. Nuba over a sealant won't harm anything. 105 is very strong and durable, as is 845. Plenty of people use the 105/845 combo for winter and still beads water off after winter.
 
Surfer said:
I like Duragloss, but that sounds funny to me. Nuba over a sealant won't harm anything. 105 is very strong and durable, as is 845. Plenty of people use the 105/845 combo for winter and still beads water off after winter.
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I understand, but the word came straight from the top: "a wax of any type will compromise the performance of #105."

It does raise questions about the practice of topping a sealant with a carnauba (or anything else), doesn't it?
 
bandgeek99 said:
My theory with applying Collinite over DG105 is durability. For the winter months, I'm not *as* concerned with looks as I am protection from contaminants. Therefore, I assume the IW would act essentially as a sacrificial layer. As my car is hit with contaminants and such the IW would wear. Once gone, I still have DG105 underneath. And thus with the right cleaners/spray waxes/etc I can keep the protection going for as long as necessary within reason.
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And this is precisely my point. If durability is the principal concern, one will stick with pure Duragloss. DG 105 reputedly provides 6-12 months of protection; Collinite 845 does not. So why put 845 over the Duragloss?
 
somebody here just wrote up a good process like two weeks ago. I forgot who but it was informative. I called Duragloss and asked a question a few weeks back and the guy was very helpful and informative. He probably talked for twenty minutes or more. I believe he was even of their chemists/testers.
 
akimel said:
And this is precisely my point. If durability is the principal concern, one will stick with pure Duragloss. DG 105 reputedly provides 6-12 months of protection; Collinite 845 does not. So why put 845 over the Duragloss?
Click to expand...

What's the harm in a Plan 'B'? The durability of a product depends on several factors: condition of paint, climate, environment, type of contaminants, duration of contact of contaminants, user error during application, improper prep before application, etc. . .

For the sake of argument, what if the environment here wore out the DG105 around January 15th. . . I'm busy with work so I can't spend three days with the car locked up while I re-polish with 501/601/105 or 101/105 with a cure inbetween each (as necessary). But I can spend two hours doing a rinseless wash and reapply wax, until I can wrangle the time and weather to allow me the couple days it takes to do the correct seasonal detail.

The point remains protect the paint. If the 845 only last 6 weeks compared to the DGs 6 months, then I have just helped the DG along to ensure it lasts 6 months or more, because the 845 bore the brunt of any environmental assaults for the first 6 weeks.
 
Hey guys I found the Duragloss Application document from Google.

It only applies to Duragloss #111, but it says that you have to wait at least 3 hours before applying another coat of #111 on top of a previously applied coat.
 
I'm thinking based on what I've read here and from Duragloss, I'm going to do the alcy-water strip, 101, then 105. I found out last night that the Collinite 845 can be problematic in temperatures under 60*F, which I won't see again until April and my garage is not that well insulated. I'm still pondering what my final LSP will be (105x2/AquaWax or 105/845).

Thanks guys! :buffing:
 
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