Dynabrade random orbital polisher kit

So you cant get the allen bolt out Charlie?

I wouldnt think you need the wrench either with the lockable one. Lock the attatchment and use the lock on the polisher

Yeah, there's no need for the flat wrench... I finally got it to break loose. There was a big glob of loctite on the threads and evidently I wasn't applying quite enough force to break through it (didn't want to risk busting something inside the attachment or stripping the threads).

Now that I got it off, it appears that it'll accept pretty much any standard DA backing plate. I already test fitted my 5" LC plate on it as well as a Meguiar's S6BP and they appear as though they'll work fine. I'll have to do some playing around with it in the coming days.
 
Yeah, there's no need for the flat wrench... I finally got it to break loose. There was a big glob of loctite on the threads and evidently I wasn't applying quite enough force to break through it (didn't want to risk busting something inside the attachment or stripping the threads).

Now that I got it off, it appears that it'll accept pretty much any standard DA backing plate. I already test fitted my 5" LC plate on it as well as a Meguiar's S6BP and they appear as though they'll work fine. I'll have to do some playing around with it in the coming days.
Now that I read this I think to myself...:doh: yeah if it's the lockable one you wouldn't need the wrench. Guess I wasn't thinking too much there.:xyxthumbs:Glad you got it off.
 
Wow, what a bargain. Glad I've waited to order. The price was double this amount 6 months ago :)
 
Well I tried mine on one small area today and the Dynabrade is pretty nice.

Take this for what its worth as I am pretty new at this. I have limited experience and its all with a rotary. (never had a orbital buffer..yet)
I do enjoy the rotary and get great results using it.

The things I noticed, there is some vibration but you can hit speeds where it is very minimal. I cant compare it to something like a PC just yet.
Everything that Kevin Brown mentioned in pg 2 of this thread makes a lot more sense now. 2k+ rpm which Im not sure if I ever did in "rotary" mode is just fine doing orbital.

Also... I was using 205 on a Megs yellow softbuff pad and the "work time" seemed to really last compared to rotary mode.
I had completed a few section passes in orbital then locked the attatchment to rotary; then doing another pass the section wiped pretty clean like the polish was "done"
I switched back to orbital and continued getting a nice "haze" like the compound still had some life (all this without adding any compound) and was able to continue doing passes where as if I had stayed in rotary I probably would have stopped.


I dont know if its a condition of when in "rotary" the majority of the work is being done by the outer diameter of the pad while the center has a much slower surface speed and really isnt doing much, and the outside of the pad gets used up faster while any compound on the inside just lays there.
Were as in "orbital" the entire pad surface is contributing "equally" or at least much more so, and the compound that is towards the center of the pad gets used.

Does this make any sense? I have a machine tool background and cutter surface speed is pretty critical, I cant help but think in those terms even when doing something like buffing.
 
I dont know if its a condition of when in "rotary" the majority of the work is being done by the outer diameter of the pad while the center has a much slower surface speed and really isnt doing much, and the outside of the pad gets used up faster while any compound on the inside just lays there.

Given that the working motion of the tool while in "rotary" mode with the adapter isn't as pure as the rotary would deliver to a directly driven pad, I'd have to think this makes sense.

The pad locks into place off-center, which causes its rotation diameter to be larger than the diameter of the pad itself. At the outer edge of this motion the pad foam would be forced to compress and "dig in" to the surface in an unnatural manner, which presumably would cause the center portion of the pad to lift away from the paint AND would heat the outer edges of the pad more than the center of the pad.

In orbital mode, there is still an off-center motion occurring, but the diameter of each stroke is significantly smaller, allowing the pad to compress and "dig in" evenly, involving the entire face in the work of buffing as you noted.

Sure, that makes the rotary mode effective for cutting purposes, but it certainly isn't suitable for final polishing and will cause premature wear to your pads if used for long periods of time. I'd say the Dynabrade's rotary mode is probably best suited to isolated repair operations as opposed to full-vehicle buff-outs when paired with foam pads. I'd imagine that the behavior of a wool/foamed wool/surbuf type pad would be somewhat different and would deliver a different result. Regardless, it's fairly easy to remove the adapter and swap in a regular backing plate to use the rotary as a true rotary.

I'll try to get around to doing some testing within the next few days and see if there's a way to capture the pad motion on film... maybe running the buffer on a piece of glass and recording from the underside.

:buffing:
 
... which presumably would cause the center portion of the pad to lift away from the paint ....

Only if the pad had no backing and the foam was so incredibly stiff that it had no ability to compress.

What typically happens with large stroke machine is the foam compresses along the edge where the pad is "gripping" as it is pushed, so the foam in that general area becomes more dense as the pores in the foam squeeze shut.

There is a rolling of the pad edge, and it varies from pad to pad depending on edge shape, foam "squishiness", height, structure, and density of the pad. essentially the side of the pad rolls under as it grips the paint surface, so even the type of buffing liquid makes a difference.

Kind of like a tire sidewall bending under a sharp cornering maneuver, so much so that the sidewall scrubs the pavement.

I think we're saying the same thing, in different ways. Great point!
 
I think we're saying the same thing, in different ways. Great point!

I think so too... and I like the way you described it, especially with the tire sidewall analogy. That's pretty much exactly what I was getting at. :props:

My point about the center of the pad lifting was essentially meaning that because the edge of the pad becomes compressed and "rolls under" the normal contact patch, the center of the pad might end up compensating for it if the backing is also pulled toward the edge (making the center of the pad take on a concave shape). Of course that assumes some of the backing material's outer edge is left exposed and unsupported by the backing plate (which is often the case). That pulling probably wouldn't occur if the backing plate used fully supported the pad's backing material.

From your response, it sounds like that condition is amplified when using more aggressive polishing and cutting foams, and reduced when using finishing pads. I honestly would've expected the opposite to be true since finishing pads are typically more pliable and would presumably roll under more easily than a stiffer pad that tends to hold its shape even under torsional force.
 
With the Dynabrade locking into rotary mode, and being off center, the pad takes on more of a sweeping action and less of a "rotational" cutting.
You could really do the same thing by attatching a pad off center (on a rotary buffer with a standard pad) and to the same degree you could even offset the pad on the dynabrade to turn on center when its locked.

Im curious to find out if this "sweeping" will be more or less effective at say removing wet sanding marks that rotating on center. (Im talking a wool pad for now)

I think this sweeping motion may have been what I was seeing occur when I was testing it out earlier; and with it locked in "rotary" it was wiping off the compound to some degree.


Im sure we may all be over anaylizing? the whole process but Im always facinated/curious as to how things work
 
...Of course that assumes some of the backing material's outer edge is left exposed and unsupported by the backing plate (which is often the case)...

Right.

That pulling probably wouldn't occur if the backing plate used fully supported the pad's backing material.

Right.

From your response, it sounds like that condition is amplified when using more aggressive polishing and cutting foams, and reduced when using finishing pads. I honestly would've expected the opposite to be true since finishing pads are typically more pliable and would presumably roll under more easily than a stiffer pad that tends to hold its shape even under torsional force.

Once again we are in agreement, but the wires are crossing.

A softer pad... a pad with more "cushion"... a pad that is more pliable... a very "squishable" pad... would bend under more than a ruggedly built pad under the right condition (lack of backing support).

My statement that:

Only if the pad had no backing and the foam was so incredibly stiff that it had no ability to compress.

Was in reference to this:

At the outer edge of this motion the pad foam would be forced to compress and "dig in" to the surface in an unnatural manner, which presumably would cause the center portion of the pad to lift away from the paint ...

So, I understood your writing to mean that if you took a flat, plastic disc in both hands by its edges and flexed it, the disc would dish in the center. Right?

So, if we are talking pads that are stiff in the same manner, and the pad was very dense.... it's structure very stiff... then it would buckle as the plastic disc would.

Dang, sometimes an actual conversation is sooooo much easier. :dig:
 
...I'm sure we may all be over analyzing the whole process, but I'm always facinated/curious as to how things work...

Not at all over-analyzing. Like there's something else going on more important that this right now?! :righton:
C'mon Man, we're talking cutting power, direct drive, long stroke machines that are designed to flatten and grind stuff!

Better to discuss things and analyze what's going on than to expect somebody to, "Just tell me how to do it... and give me the Cliff-note version."
That only helps in a pinch, but does nothing to improve somebody's education as to why the recommendation worked.
 
Once again we are in agreement, but the wires are crossing.

A softer pad... a pad with more "cushion"... a pad that is more pliable... a very "squishable" pad... would bend under more than a ruggedly built pad under the right condition (lack of backing support).

Gotcha. :iagree:

So, I understood your writing to mean that if you took a flat, plastic disc in both hands by its edges and flexed it, the disc would dish in the center. Right?
Right, that is indeed what I meant.

So, if we are talking pads that are stiff in the same manner, and the pad was very dense.... it's structure very stiff... then it would buckle as the plastic disc would.
That makes sense.... they both exhibit a similar behavior, but to varying degrees and for different reasons.

Dang, sometimes an actual conversation is sooooo much easier. :dig:
No kidding! I'm one of those people that tends to talk with their hands, and it makes explaining complex things a lot easier (not that this is exceedingly complex, but it is certainly an advanced concept).

Almost kind of a curse to know how to use the Multi-Quote and Editor features in vBulletin...

:D

A gift and a curse all in one, that's what I'd call it. :dblthumb2:

Not at all over-analyzing. Like there's something else going on more important that this right now?! :righton:
C'mon Man, we're talking cutting power, direct drive, long stroke machines that are designed to flatten and grind stuff!

Home-Improvement-Tim-Taylor.jpg


Better to discuss things and analyze what's going on than to expect somebody to, "Just tell me how to do it... and give me the Cliff-note version."
That only helps in a pinch, but does nothing to improve somebody's education as to why the recommendation worked.
My feelings exactly... without knowing how and why things work the way they do, how can someone harness their maximum potential or improve upon existing equipment and techniques? :idea:
 
I just tried this tool out for the first time and I am way beyond impressed. I used the 8" backing plate that came with it and a yellow 8" Meguiars Soft Buff polishing pad on my Makita rotary on full speed ahead. This Monster Makita DA with just Optimum Poli-Seal Quickly corrected some light defects and brought the paint to a very nice gloss. I may never use my G110V2 again. :righton:
 
I just tried this tool out for the first time and I am way beyond impressed. I used the 8" backing plate that came with it and a yellow 8" Meguiars Soft Buff polishing pad on my Makita rotary on full speed ahead. This Monster Makita DA with just Optimum Poli-Seal Quickly corrected some light defects and brought the paint to a very nice gloss. I may never use my G110V2 again. :righton:

How did you feel about the weight of it? Overbearing by the end of the car on vertical panels? What about the vibrations?
 
Let me know what you guys think about this. Something I would be very interested in. I hate using my PC because of the vibration.


I did a little side by side testing with the Dynabrade and the PC and the vibration with the Dynabrade seems a lot less.

Probably the larger orbits creating a lower frequency vibration that is less annoying in my opinion.

The PC has that "buzz" to it, the Dynabrade on a Makita does not.


The PC being lighter and more compact will probably get used in the tighter areas but if the Makita/Dynabrade will fit thats what Ill be reaching for
 
The PC being lighter and more compact will probably get used in the tighter areas but if the Makita/Dynabrade will fit thats what Ill be reaching for

I have to agree. The PC is better suited to damp sanding and use with spot buffing pads (4") but for the rest the Dynabrade is where it's at, it seems. Haven't had a chance to test it mated to my lightweight Flex yet, though.
 
This is the first video I have ever uploaded to youtube so I hope it works out and I haven't broken any forum ruled by posting it.

I wanted to show how well this unit works. I used M-105 and a Genuine Cyclo 4" light cutting pad to correct a somewhat deep scratch on this Toyota Pickup.

[video=youtube_share;zo-hRJejqpk] - Scratch removal with M-105 and Dynabrade random orbital polishing head[/video]
 
Looks pretty good Dave. Too bad mine went under the Christmas Tree. Can't wait to give it a whirl.:buffing:
 
Whoa!! Thats quite a crazy oscillatory movement there!!

How much is the oscillation diameter?

I'm planning to get one for my rotary as well, my DA vibrates like hell!!
 
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