Engine Detailing on an old car (1972 Sel 300 Benz)

Since that engine has almost no electronic you are fairly safe getting water on everything. You will have to remove the distributor cap afterwards and dry it inside, but it would probably be a good idea to cover the distributor and alternator too. And as long as water can not get down the inside of the carb it is ok to clean the exterior.

Does the client just want them clean or does he want them car show detailed?
I watched an old Packard get it's engine ready for a Concours once and it was quite the learning experience. It was removed from the car. The head (a flathead) was stripped to the bare metal and then enamel painted. The block was spotlessly cleaned and then painted. All brightwork was polished and laquered. All rubber lines replaced. All fabric wiring was replaced. When it went back into the freshly painted engine compartment you could eat off it. Except you would have to clean it again afterwards.

I hope you are not going to have to go to that level with the car.
 
Since it's an old car there's not much electronics so that's a good thing. The only thing you should cover up is the intake just to make sure no water enters the intake. Apart from that it isn't necessary to cover up anything else as long as you clean it like a responsable person. Which means you shouldn't be pouring a ton of water on the battery and the alternator etc...

So the choice is yours, i have cleaned a lot of engine bays and i only wrap the intake. No problems at all afterwards as long as you clean it like a responsable person. And dry the alternator etc afterwards which you probably were going to do with the entire engine bay so...

Good luck!
 
I used to work on those for a living, the wiring gets very brittle with age, DO NOT use a pressure washer, you can blow the insulation off the wiring. Everything gently and by hand.
 
What do you recommend as far as covering? If anything?
 
I am just cleaning it. I would love to actually get into a project like that later on. It seems like a fun thing to do but not for a customer. I am just gona use Gunk cleaner and protectant as that is all I can get my hands on in short notice.
 
Mike lambert said:
I used to work on those for a living, the wiring gets very brittle with age, DO NOT use a pressure washer, you can blow the insulation off the wiring. Everything gently and by hand.
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What do you recommend as far as covering? If anything?
 
oldmodman said:
Since that engine has almost no electronic you are fairly safe getting water on everything. You will have to remove the distributor cap afterwards and dry it inside, but it would probably be a good idea to cover the distributor and alternator too. And as long as water can not get down the inside of the carb it is ok to clean the exterior.

Does the client just want them clean or does he want them car show detailed?
I watched an old Packard get it's engine ready for a Concours once and it was quite the learning experience. It was removed from the car. The head (a flathead) was stripped to the bare metal and then enamel painted. The block was spotlessly cleaned and then painted. All brightwork was polished and laquered. All rubber lines replaced. All fabric wiring was replaced. When it went back into the freshly painted engine compartment you could eat off it. Except you would have to clean it again afterwards.

I hope you are not going to have to go to that level with the car.
Click to expand...

I am just cleaning it. I would love to actually get into a project like that later on. It seems like a fun thing to do but not for a customer. I am just gona use Gunk cleaner and protectant as that is all I can get my hands on in short notice.
 
Sometimes I think I'm the only guy that knows how to use a forum gallery...

Here's your picture resized to 800 pixels and uploaded to your free gallery here on AGO

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So at my Competition Ready 3-day detailing classes I teach 2 types of engine detailing,

Traditional Engine Detailing - Using engine degreasers, APCs and running water.

Cosmetic Engine Detailing - Using waterless washes, brushes and plastic detailers.


When I teach the traditional engine detailing class I have a secret technique I share. I share tons of techniques over the course of the three days here's just one tiny little simple nugget of information that will keep you SAFE.


A water sprayer with a shower setting


I know what everyone is thinking....

Genius!


I'd recommend getting a nice garden hose sprayer like the one I use for my detailing boot camp classes. It has a shower setting that does a good job of rinsing without forcing water into things like electrical connections or flooding the engine bay with tons of water.

The sprayer is actually a very key component of working safely as it helps you to rinse safely when working on modern hi-tech cars. Think I bought mine at Lowe's or Home Depot.

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Then the key to ONLY needing the shower setting to get the engine compartment clean is to do a GREAT job of scrubbing the various areas and components first with a variety of brushes and a quality engine degreaser or APC.



As far as what to cover up, think it through. Cover up with tape and plastic ANYTHING you don't want to get wet or get water into. Use masking tape, plastic bags like you get at the quickie mart, duct tape, etc. Whatever it takes to create a sealed water barrier around the thing you don't what to get wet.

Electrical components
Alternator
Air Filter
Alarms
Fuse Box
Electrical connectors
Sensors

Tape all these things off and then after you clean the engine wipe these areas with a little APC on a microfiber towel.


For SPECIFIC info on what to cover and protect read this article I wrote years ago. The info is just as valid today as it is when I wrote it.

How to use a Discussion Forum to Detail an Engine


You said in your PM that you are planning on attending one of my three day classes in the future. I can guarantee you'll learn SO MUCH in the three days it will put you miles ahead of all your competition and give you the confidence to tackle any type of detailing project.

My classes are always the same time every year. That's because the majority of people that attend my class either,

  1. Fly in from around the United States
  2. Fly in from around the world.


And these people need to consistency in order to make their travel plans,

  • Plane tickets
  • Hotel accommodations
  • Rental cars


I'd say the average person that flys to my class spend around $3000.00 to $4000.00 and my classes always sale out.

So if you're serious, plan your budget, clear your schedule and when you're ready either click on the GRAPHIC at the top of any forum page where you see this,


competition_ready_detailing_classes_graphic.jpg


Or call Andre at

1-800-869-3011 x244

My next class is in the last weekend of September.


Each new year, here's the schedule. The same schedule every year.

Last weekend of January.
First weekend of May.
Last weekend of September.


It's never a mystery.


Hope all of the above helps...


:)
 
Also,

Thank you for the PM with your questions but I really prefer to answer question on the public forum.

Just not enough typing time to type out detailed answers with pictures, links and videos for one set of eyeballs.


:)
 
aeghbal said:
I am just cleaning it. I would love to actually get into a project like that later on. It seems like a fun thing to do but not for a customer. I am just gona use Gunk cleaner and protectant as that is all I can get my hands on in short notice.
Click to expand...
Gunk has such a residual smell,I would refrain from that and use a apc thats readily available in retail.
 
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