Engine Maintenance

danjosborn said:
Cummins03, how much does this analysis cost? I'm a big fan of synthetics (real synthetics like Amsoil), but am currently using Mobil 1 in everything.

Is this a diesel you are talking about?
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Yes it's a diesel. It cost about 20 dollars to do the test. I get a pre-paid shipping label and bottle, form, etc. when I order the oil and filters from Amsoil. I don't know if I'm going to do this in my next vehicle. It's a pain to order the oil and filters and it's more up front cost.
 
Amsoil

03,

Its probably good for severe use vehicles, but may not pay off for ones that are not used beyond their limits.

Also, when you sell or trade, no one cares and they think you are crazy.
 
cummins03 said:
Yes it's a diesel. It cost about 20 dollars to do the test. I get a pre-paid shipping label and bottle, form, etc. when I order the oil and filters from Amsoil. I don't know if I'm going to do this in my next vehicle. It's a pain to order the oil and filters and it's more up front cost.
Click to expand...

Mobil 1 is a true synthectic oil. I was using Pennzoil Platinum and switched
to Mobil 1 because of what I read about Mobil 1 being the biggest researcher
of Syn oils. I am not saying that they are superior to Amsoil. I just think
that Mobil 1 should be good enough to save a few bucks versus the Amsoil.
There is a lot of good info about oil on a sight I will link below. I am only
going to link it as it doe's not conflict with Autogeek

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
 
I used Castrol Synthetic in my Jag. No idea how that compares to Mobil One. Nice thing about Mobil One is that you can buy it at Costco for a good price.
 
The only reason I'm using it is because I plan on keeping the truck for ever if possible. I will get something else to drive later but really need to keep the truck. Who knows what the price will be 5 years down the road. For the same truck now it's about 4000 more.
 
Belcherm 58,

I totally agree with you, but...

Mobil 1 does not tell the whole truth. I'm trying to find out who does at this point. I should have been a lawyer and chemist and I guess I would already know this. They say their oil is "Fully Synthetic". By word definition, it is fully synthetic and they are allowed to sell it this way. By chemical definition, it is not. Sources I am finding right now indicate that Mobil 1 can contain as much as 19% "conventional" oil (pumped from the ground) depending on viscosity grade. The additive package they use is in a "carrier oil" that is a conventional oil. The base oil that they start with is fully synthetic and also chemically synthetic so this allows them to market it as "Fully Synthetic".

This is copied from the Mobil 1 site:

"{All motor oils are made up of base oils and additives. In general, fully synthetic motor oils contain non-conventional, high-performance fluids. Synthetic blends usually use some non-conventional, high-performance fluids in combination with conventional oil.



To meet the demanding requirements of today's specifications (and our customers' expectations), Mobil 1® uses high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAOs), along with a proprietary system of additives. Each Mobil 1 viscosity grade uses a unique combination of synthetic fluids and selected additives in order to tailor the viscosity grade to its specific application.}"

Note that Mobil states they use high-performance fluids. They do not state that they use solely non-conventional, high-performance fluids.

Its still the best for the money and I will continue using it.

I am trying to find out which oils are both "Fully Synthetic" by word and by chemical definition. I don't think it matters much, but it would be good to know. Here is a link to one site. These people are a competitor, so I would like to get this information from a non-biased source before believing everything contained in their information.

GOOGLE LOOKUP : SYNLUBE.COM
 
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Good idea

03,

I think you are doing the right thing if you want to keep the vehicle.

I hate it that cars have become "disposable" in recent years.

It goes against everything I believe in, but I am on that buy / trade downward spiral like those that I used to talk about.
 
Having used Mobil 1 in every car to date and never having an engine repair, I can only say it provides peace of mind. The fact that both my Vette and SRX were delivered with Mobil 1 installed, as seems to show that someone at GM seems to feel the same way, otherwise they would have installed the fossil oil that comes in almost every other unit. I usually change the first fluid at 2500 miles, and from there use the on board system to tell me when to change.

And as for advertisements, well I am sure if you look hard enough every competitor has something to say about the competition, and its never pretty.

-------
I have modified a couple links that do not seem pertinent to the thread. Even though the do not compete with AG, they dont seem beneficial to the original post. A google search should help anyone in need of finding these items.
 
Sorry about that Killr, just got a little off original topic. I won't post any that compete with AG.
 
Very helpful info in this thread; now some caution. If you use one of the chain specialty quick change shops for regular maintenance, be wary. The problem isn't so much the oil, which is a generic, standard grade product, it is the filters. Frequently they use the poorest quality imported media and housings which likewise are ill designed and manufactured. That's probably okay as long as you change it frequently, but they tend to clog and fail sooner than the better, more expensive ones.
Also,
 
(wrong key) ... one of my mechanics, I have three, always complains about the gas companies. His latest tirade was how they recently reformulated gasoline to improve profit margins. In consequence, he claims that even new engines are burning oul prodigiously, sometimes leading to catastrophic failure. Anyone else aware of this phenomenon? As always, check your fluids often, especially in severe conditions or older engines, and don't overlook the transmission. If its oil appears dark as a December midnight or smells burnt, change it and the filter immediately. Then check all other systems as one affects the other.
Naturally, if you perform your own maintenance you can control what goes on and in your engine. There are no guarantees if you don't.
 
i'm having problems with my gear shifting on an automatic. it feels like its stuck or slipping? and the rpm stays high then usual. and the check engine goes on. it happens thens goes away after a few hours.
 
AT 60,000 MILES???

If so, It would be a safe bet to change out those fluids. I agree with followong the manufactures suggest intervals, and i do to my customers also. However, many manufactures leave out the fact of power steering and brake fluid....which is weird.

these fluids are hydroscopic, and absorb moisture through the lines. They dont seperate like oil and water do. For brakes, this means rotting lines, for power steering means pumps, seals, and rack and pinions being damaged.

GM recommends coolant changes at 160,000 with there dexcool...this is also the reason why they ahve a class action law suit for the stuff eating seals...Dexcool is very acidic in nature, we recommend flushes every 60,000.

If comes down really to how cheap you wanna be to be honest. I change all the fluids in my cars every 50,000 KM's...Coolant, Power Steering, Brake, Gear Oil(Trans), and both my diff's.....Ive never had a single break down in any of vehicles, 95 GMC Sonoma 200,000 KM, Civic with 240,000km, New Blazer, 99 GMC Pickup with 70,000, 1991 Beretta 130,000, My subuaru now has almost 60,000miles...

take it as you will, this advice comes from a maintance and repair shop owner
 
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