Equipment & Supplies "Your Thoughts"

A

azacura

New member
Joined
May 24, 2013
Messages
32
Reaction score
0
Good afternoon everyone,

Well after a lot of reading, research, & your feedback I'm thinking of purchasing the equipment & supplies listed below. I'm a rookie, have never used a DA before. What are you're thoughts?

Brand
  • Griot's Garage 6" HD Random Orbital
  • Griot's Garage 5" Vented Backing Plate
  • Lake Country 5.5" (Orange)
  • Lake Country 5.5" (White)
  • Lake Country 5.5" (Red)
  • Griot's Garage Complete Compound
  • Griot's Garage Complete Polish
  • Wolfgand Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
  • Griot's Garage Best of Show Wax (Liquid)
  • Microfiber All Purpose & Wheel Detailing + Mit (16 x 24)
  • Waffle Weave MF Glass Towel (16 x 24)
  • Supreme Guzzler Waffe Weave (20 x 40) Drying
  • Forrest Green Edgeless Polishing Cloth (cmpnd, wx, plsh removal) 16 x 16
  • Forrest Green Edgeless Polishing Cloth (cmpnd, wx, plsh removal) 16 x 16
  • Forrest Green Edgeless Polishing Cloth (cmpnd, wx, plsh removal) 16 x 16

Or should I purchase the Griot's pads? Anything else that I'm missing or that you recommend?

Thank you all in advance for your patience and feedback.
 
Hi. I'm sure there will be many pros (i'm in the hobbyist category) and folks that will chime in but since I have a second before I clock out, I'll give a little 2 cents worth. I read that GG paste wax comes off easier. As far as pads go, orange and white for sure... if you apply wax by hand then sure, give the red a try. As for the number... way more than 1... think 1 pad per panel. I can say from experience that that little tip really helps. It's a good start... maybe think of gallons of something... a little cheaper and can last longer. Think a good degreaser and APC... McKee's or Optimum or Meguiar's. Nice start though and as started, others will chime in...
 
Good choice on the polisher and the backplate. In my book that is the best 1st polisher you can get.

For the pads, you don't have any cutting pads. So if you are planning on doing actual paint correction (compounding) you should get either some micro-fiber cutting pads, or/and some foam cutting pads. In the Lake Country lineup, the thin pro gray pads are very likelly the most effective you can get. You other pad choices are good. You will likelly find that you will be reaching for the orange pads a lot more than the other two.

I have no experience with Griot's polishes so I can't really comment on them. Same goes for the sealant you chose.

Best of show wax was praised by some detailers I like to listen to. So I think you have a good product there.

Microfibers, the more the better. I think you have a good kit there

Some things not on your list you might want to add:

You will need some kind of grease and wax remover. It's used after you are done compounding and polishing to remove the polishing oils from the paint before you either coat or seal it. I make my own using Isopropyl alcohol and ONR but if you want to buy some pre-mixed the two I can suggest are CarPro Eracer (expensive) and Duplicolor Grease and wax remover (affordable).

Also, a tool you will definatelly want to have is a blower to dry the car. I suggest you have a look at the Metrovac Sidekick, it's the best tool in my whole arsenal in my book.

Finally, if you don't have them already, you will want material to wash the car properly. That step is very important. So 3 5-gallon buckets, 3 grit guards, some microfiber wash mitts, a wheel brush kit (I like Wheel Woolies best but having a speedmaster/ez-detail brush is a must for super tight areas on some wheels), detailing brushes

Finally, a power washer is one of the best tool you can have. Even a super cheap one will help greatly at maintaining the car without damaging it.
 
Goonie75 said:
Hi. I'm sure there will be many pros (i'm in the hobbyist category) and folks that will chime in but since I have a second before I clock out, I'll give a little 2 cents worth. I read that GG paste wax comes off easier. As far as pads go, orange and white for sure... if you apply wax by hand then sure, give the red a try. As for the number... way more than 1... think 1 pad per panel. I can say from experience that that little tip really helps. It's a good start... maybe think of gallons of something... a little cheaper and can last longer. Think a good degreaser and APC... McKee's or Optimum or Meguiar's. Nice start though and as started, others will chime in...
Click to expand...
Thanks Goonie75. Oh I sorry but yes yo stay I'm planning of 6 of each of the orange & white pads & 1 red.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Calendyr said:
Good choice on the polisher and the backplate. In my book that is the best 1st polisher you can get.

For the pads, you don't have any cutting pads. So if you are planning on doing actual paint correction (compounding) you should get either some micro-fiber cutting pads, or/and some foam cutting pads. In the Lake Country lineup, the thin pro gray pads are very likelly the most effective you can get. You other pad choices are good. You will likelly find that you will be reaching for the orange pads a lot more than the other two.

I have no experience with Griot's polishes so I can't really comment on them. Same goes for the sealant you chose.

Best of show wax was praised by some detailers I like to listen to. So I think you have a good product there.

Microfibers, the more the better. I think you have a good kit there

Some things not on your list you might want to add:

You will need some kind of grease and wax remover. It's used after you are done compounding and polishing to remove the polishing oils from the paint before you either coat or seal it. I make my own using Isopropyl alcohol and ONR but if you want to buy some pre-mixed the two I can suggest are CarPro Eracer (expensive) and Duplicolor Grease and wax remover (affordable).

Also, a tool you will definatelly want to have is a blower to dry the car. I suggest you have a look at the Metrovac Sidekick, it's the best tool in my whole arsenal in my book.

Finally, if you don't have them already, you will want material to wash the car properly. That step is very important. So 3 5-gallon buckets, 3 grit guards, some microfiber wash mitts, a wheel brush kit (I like Wheel Woolies best but having a speedmaster/ez-detail brush is a must for super tight areas on some wheels), detailing brushes

Finally, a power washer is one of the best tool you can have. Even a super cheap one will help greatly at maintaining the car without damaging it.
Click to expand...
Thank you Calendyr, I did thought about the gray pad but the word "extreme" in its name scared me. I do have 2007 Sequoia that's in very bad shape so I was hoping that the orange pads would do the job.

And thank you for your other recommendations.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Lots of people use waffle weaves for drying...it's where I started. I eventually went to Griots PFM drying towels...expensive, but worth it.
 
If the paint is in 'very bad shape', you may want to consider microfiber cutting pad such as the BuffnShine along w/ Meguiars D300. In my
experience, the Meg's microfiber pads fail way too early/often.

Most of the time, I just hand apply paste wax (Collinite 476) w/ an red applicator (not pad) or a pad w/ velcro hand strap.

Personally, I prefer Optimum Car Wax (spray)

You're going to want a *bunch* of both short nap 'utility' microfiber and some nice plush for touching the paint.
 
I use and really like the Boss Fast Correcting cream, and the Boss Perfecting cream. Very easy to use, finish beautifully, and wipe off is a breeze. It is somewhat sun sensitive, so use it in the shade.

Have fun!

Bill
 
Also consider a pad cleaning brush, they aren't expensive and a good Pad Cleaning Solution. I picked up some Poor Boys Tornado Pad Cleaner after several people recommended it on here, and am quite happy with it. Does a nice job cleaning up the pads.
 
Well it might be extreme for a foam pad, but foam has very little cut compared to microfiber and wool. So you do want them as exteme as they can be unless you plan on doing 50 passes per section ;)

If you are not sure, start with fewer passes, say 3 or 4 and see how it comes out. You have to do this anyway to key in the process for the whole car, so instead of starting at 5 or 6, start lower.

Also, your compound is an other important aspect of the cut. I do not know how GG's compounds act, but the 3rd aspect, the polisher is one that is not very aggressive, so you do have to get maximum cut from both the pad and the compound if you don't want to stand there for days ;) I am not sure how hard Totota paint is, I have done maybe 2 in the last 5 years and they were both 1 step... so I never did a full paint correction on one. Usually Japaneese paint is soft, so that is a good thing for you.
 
Looks good.

The orang pad is capable.

I like to have microfiber pads on hand - just in case. Sometime you just need more cut.
 
In addition to what's been recommended (APC and degreaser), I'd add a good glass cleaner (i.e., Megs), good car soap, a quick detailer (GZg Speed Shine, etc), perhaps a waterless/rinseless (McKees 914, Ultima, Optimum No Rinse, etc) and shop vac. I personally like the HD Ridgid blower vac with auto detail kit (powerful vac, and the detachable blower can be used to help dry the vehicle).
 
Sharply Dressed said:
I personally like the HD Ridgid blower vac with auto detail kit (powerful vac, and the detachable blower can be used to help dry the vehicle).
Click to expand...

Does the filter on the detachable blower need to be cleaned out after vacuuming and prior to using it to dry a vehicle?
 
Calendyr said:
Well it might be extreme for a foam pad, but foam has very little cut compared to microfiber and wool. So you do want them as exteme as they can be unless you plan on doing 50 passes per section ;)

If you are not sure, start with fewer passes, say 3 or 4 and see how it comes out. You have to do this anyway to key in the process for the whole car, so instead of starting at 5 or 6, start lower.

Also, your compound is an other important aspect of the cut. I do not know how GG's compounds act, but the 3rd aspect, the polisher is one that is not very aggressive, so you do have to get maximum cut from both the pad and the compound if you don't want to stand there for days ;) I am not sure how hard Totota paint is, I have done maybe 2 in the last 5 years and they were both 1 step... so I never did a full paint correction on one. Usually Japaneese paint is soft, so that is a good thing for you.
Click to expand...
Good to know that the Toyota's paint is soft. How can you tell by the way whether a paint is soft or hard?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Sharply Dressed said:
In addition to what's been recommended (APC and degreaser), I'd add a good glass cleaner (i.e., Megs), good car soap, a quick detailer (GZg Speed Shine, etc), perhaps a waterless/rinseless (McKees 914, Ultima, Optimum No Rinse, etc) and shop vac. I personally like the HD Ridgid blower vac with auto detail kit (powerful vac, and the detachable blower can be used to help dry the vehicle).
Click to expand...

I tried using my Rigid Pro Pack as a blower when I first started out. The first time I tried it, I realised it was blowing all the dust, dirt and sand inside the hose. So if I was to use it on a car, it would act like a sand blaster. So I never did use it on a car. I guess you could get a second hose and only use it for blowing.... But would dirt from inside the vac's canister get blown out? Not sure....
 
Equipment & Supplies "Your Thoughts"

Calendyr said:
But would dirt from inside the vac's canister get blown out? Not sure....
Click to expand...

I’m surprised you haven’t found this out about your own vacuum. Lol.
But like you said you don’t really use it for that + you’d have to buy a 2nd hose..
 
Re: Equipment & Supplies "Your Thoughts"

Eldorado2k said:
I’m surprised you haven’t found this out about your own vacuum. Lol.
But like you said you don’t really use it for that + you’d have to buy a 2nd hose..
Click to expand...

Also the blow feature is not as powerful as the Sidekick. Also having to drag a heavy vacuum around the car would be annoying compared to a small hand unit.

I guess in a pinch it would do, but considering having to pay extra for the hose, I would rather spend a bit more and get a sidekick.
 
Re: Equipment & Supplies "Your Thoughts"

Calendyr said:
Also the blow feature is not as powerful as the Sidekick. Also having to drag a heavy vacuum around the car would be annoying compared to a small hand unit.

I guess in a pinch it would do, but considering having to pay extra for the hose, I would rather spend a bit more and get a sidekick.
Click to expand...

My bad, when you said Pro Pack Blower I was under the impression that it was the 1 with the detachable blower w/wand. I’m now guessing the Ridgid Pro Pack is the 1 shaped like a tool box?

And yea I know what you mean. It would be like trying to drag this around the vehicle using it to try and dry the nooks & crannies. Not ideal + even worse because this is about as big as they make them.

11e3ff898bd833883443ce02c8157ca6.jpg


But I do use it to sweep the backyard patio. You see all those leaves? They’re about to be gone... But 1st I’ll eat breakfast. Lol.
 
For a blower I have used my small battery powered Ryobi leaf blower. Doesn't get into small places as accurate as other nozzles but to get water out of mirrors, door seams, etc it works well and aren't expensive

Sent from my PH-1 using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Eldorado2k said:
Does the filter on the detachable blower need to be cleaned out after vacuuming and prior to using it to dry a vehicle?
Click to expand...
Yeah, not the ideal way to set up if your doing this professionally.

Here’s my take on the sidekick:

I use it all the time. I use it every time I wash a vehicle and when I detail an interior. It’s small and easy to work around the vehicle. It’s the only way to avoid a half hour of postwash drips that I know of. It’s as quick a way to knock off 80-90 percent of the water as there is. After most of the water is knocked off you can use it with a rag to dry (it blows warm air, so any MF will do) or with a rag and spray product.

Cleaning wheels and tires - it will dry them quickly so you don’t have to wait to apply sealants/dressings. The same for engines. Can also be use to clear out leaves and such prior to cleaning.

Works great to blow out an interior prior to cleaning. Doesn’t have the sharpness of compressed air, but it has the right amount of volume for an interior.

Downsides:

The heated air is nice in cool weather but not so nice when working in the heat (especially interiors).

All the weight is on your hand. You get use to it, but...

All the weight on your hand makes it difficult/ awkward to blow water off horizontal surfaces (especially roofs)

There’s a learning curve to get quick with it. You have to invest the time. You can’t just use it once and say this thing sucks and put it on the shelf.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top