Ever get a request for non-beading finish from a customer?

jbgrant

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Have any pro's ever had a serious request from a customer to leave their car with a sheeting finish as opposed to a beading finish?

I ask this because several forum members have mentioned lately how much they hate water spots and I'm curious what the best solutions are for a final finish that sheets like mad instead of sheeting alright and beading well. I know there are products that will cause even light rain to run off your hood, as opposed to beading up in place. Best recommendations?

I would love to be able to offer this option to the customer as a way of going over the top to leave them satisfied (even after the first sprinkle and precipitation of pollen, minerals, dirt, etc.).


I did a thorough forum search and most of the posts on this are debating the issue, this is not what I want this to turn into please.
 
Looking at some of the CQuartz videos (one I'm thinking of in particular was richy's), it looks like that coating will sheet water quite nicely....
 
We just did an entire car in CQuartz for this same reason. The owner wanted no water to be left of the car after washing and sheeting technique. Reload is marvelous! Expect to see a killer thread soon on this 2011 GTi. ;)
 
This is all very good to know. I will probably add at least one of these products to my lineup. I suspect a lot more customers and detailers will be looking for better water repellency in the future (especially after you sell them on the benefits). Thank you guys for the input. Keep it coming.

I wish UPGP was better at sheeting, it holds the beads very very well... I need to learn more about Quartz, Opti-seal, and Reload.

Joel
 
I could see the benefit of using CQuartz for no beading purposes in very hot climates. Since it sheets more than it beads, what is the best way to tell the durability of it? With traditional sealants and waxes I usually go by the beading, but how can you tell with something that sheets instead?
 
I could see the benefit of using CQuartz for no beading purposes in very hot climates. Since it sheets more than it beads, what is the best way to tell the durability of it? With traditional sealants and waxes I usually go by the beading, but how can you tell with something that sheets instead?

Well, I suppose you could judge visually just how hydrophobic the paint surface is by running water across it. On bare paint, water will tend to sheet off of sloped surfaces because the water has cohesion and as one molecule moves with gravity it pull others along. This sheeting is slowed by the frictional contact with the paint. On sealed paint that promotes sheeting, the water is repelled ionically in a uniform fashion so that it literally hovers over the paint and runs (sheets) off of it like it has zero friction with the surface (very fast flowing).

I am not an expert in this materials chemistry, but I would guess that waxes and sealants that hold beads more than they sheet water have a less uniform charge across their surface. Anybody enlighten me here?
 
The thing about Dodo Juice Time To Dry is you can add it on top of any LSP
 
IMO, Wolfgang Fuzion has pretty good sheeting properties as well.
 
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