Experienced opinions needed on this controversial video on car soaps!!!

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Ochnob

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Ok. I’m really interested to hear feedback on this controversial video. He says we should NOT be using PH neutral car soaps.

https://youtu.be/aCnMZNq4ot0


I would like some feedback from you experienced guys.

I dont mind posting this since AG sells the product he is talking about.
 
I think he just does washes with that stuff on paint he is stripping. After that you should apply a layer of wax at a minimum. Lets see the side effects on other parts of the vehicles like rust and premature trim fade. Also what about this absorbing into your skin as you wash?
 
Good grief. He could've said all that in less than 5 minutes.
 
I had a really good feeling I knew what video this was even before I clicked the link to the thread. I used to follow him on YouTube as he was helpful, but very long winded. Like KirkH said, less than 5 minutes..

I feel like he went overboard on this topic as he made multiple videos about why PH balanced soaps are ineffective and how if you really want to wash you have to “strip wash” and then it seemed like every video became a product plug.. I don’t follow him anymore because of that.

Personally, I’m going to stick to high quality car wash soaps, made for automotive finishes, from reputable brands which AG sells and are known not to harm the exterior bits (as wing commander mentioned trim).

Why use a durable wax, synthetic sealant or even 2+ year coating and use a harsh chemical “strip wash” to “thoroughly clean?”
 
Yes, Scott waxes or puts a sealant on while drying, so he recommends a strong wash to remove traffic film every time, and doesn't recommend PH neutral soaps. The stronger soap removes the protection from the car, so he reprotects after every wash. I have gotten some great tips from his videos, but he has gone very strong on product placements, and as everyone mentions is extremely long winded. The good part is you only have to watch the first or last 5 minutes and everything in between is just him repeating himself. I continue to watch most of his videos.
 
everyone is entitled to their own opinions even if we don't agree with them. sometimes you have to figure it out on your own through trial and error. what might be right for some may not be for others...
 
I think he's a know it all, All the car soaps I use work great and they don't hurt the expensive lsp's I use. Whats his next video? Car soap doesn't really get the car clean so you should sand blast it once a week then repaint
 
Lol. Doesn't matter if the soap if pH neutral or not. Guess what? If you are diluting the soap in 5 gallons of water - the pH of the washing solution you are using is impacted minimally
 
I hate when people think they're right about something and demand other people think its right too. This guy seems like he would get offended if you disagree.
 
Dawn dish soap has a PH of 7.4. There are plenty of PH neutral flooring strippers. PH neutral doesn't have anything to do with stripping wax and sealants. If anything in the Dallas area I would want a low PH soap to counteract some of the hardness of the water, not that I think it would make a difference.

In a market where automotive products have more in common than difference, and manufacturer's need to find new ways to stay relevant, they don't mess around with the PH of soaps. Some people might call that a clue.
 
swanicyouth said:
Lol. Doesn't matter if the soap if pH neutral or not. Guess what? If you are diluting the soap in 5 gallons of water - the pH of the washing solution you are using is impacted minimally
Click to expand...

I have a pH meter so I will start checking the pH of wash soaps and report.


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Does he remove the Megs fast finish label so customers can't see they can buy it at Walmart?
 
I think for what Scott does for a living he needs to remove the road film and then apply protection right away. I mean if he's got a customer base where they like a freshly protected car every 6-8 weeks more power to him. I find his vids entertaining and he seems like a genuine guy, honest

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
I think he is a bit overboard with this, but he has a point. Removing traffic film can be a big deal if you only see the car every few weeks. That soap is a very good wheel cleaner as well.

He has another video where he is using an off the shelf wash and wax when the car is not that dirty. Driving through rain where the paint will be splashed with road film is his main concern.

Overall I like his out of the box thinking, but don't agree with everything.
 
Well he chooses the high road. He is correct but the thing is there's no need to use alkaline cleaner if the car hasn't see any rain, mud build up, snow etc. to collect traffic film on the paint.
Also if you are reapplying the sealant every 6 months, traffic film is not going to hurt the paint in that time frame because you have to make the car squeaky clean before sealant application every 6 months. Traffic film needs a longer time to be embedded in.
Besides this menzerna confirmed me that power lock or power protect ultra (eu market, finishing polish with sealant capability) can endure 12+ washes with hard water and strong alkaline car soap. So in the summer, I go with pH neutral if the car didn't see any rain. I use mostly alkaline car soap in the winter.
Personally I strip with dish soap and super degreaser and reapply power lock (if I need light polishing I'll go with power protect ultra). I'm doing this 3 months apart in the winter and 6 months apart in summer. Which is around January-February (1st application of the year, winter maintenance) April-May (2nd, summer prep) October-November (3rd, winter prep). I've seen a great success with protection, cleanliness, ease of care and overall beauty of the car whole year.
Long story short, use the cleaner that suits your cars need. Reapply the sealant when it wears off. If you want to take the harder way he is correct.
FYI: You have to adjust the frequency of applications with waxes. They will wear off much easily, almost one wash with alkaline soap of any kind.
 
wow, a protect all product. reminds me way back in the early autopia days before ONR came out many were using the quick & easy rinseless wash. oh the memories...
 
VISITOR said:
wow, a protect all product. reminds me way back in the early autopia days before ONR came out many were using the quick & easy rinseless wash. oh the memories...
Click to expand...

Omg !!!! You remember this stuff as well? I just finished up a bottle by adding it to my wash water to help soften it up. I remember the QEW days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
He has some great trix that are good but I don't agree with him on everything. And I don't think anyone has the perfect system. You can get inspiration to get your own system from alot of the detailing pros and enthusiasts who is share their thing. So I don't buy in everything they do but some seems interesting and I try it out. It's a way to get information on what can work for me. Then you have certain environment and in what scale you do it in and what quality you get.

As for this video and use of car schampo. I use a schampo that doesnt leaves anything behind and has the lubrication that feels most save to touch the car with and cleans. The ph balance is not that importened and I think it's not only that who does it if it cleans well or not. The different chemicals is what does that and the big guns use different chemicals that is on the both acid and alkaline side to have a product that is neutral in the end dilution. And even if it is alkaline you water it out to almost nothing I think.

In my situation where I live I use a alkaline based prewash. I use it from a foamcannon or pressure bottle to apply apply it. Apply on a dry car and let it dwell for some minutes and don't let it dry. When rinsing I start from the bottom and work my way up to get the most out of the product. The pressure wash work like a wash media and use the spray pattern to clean it with. This helps the to clean the most of the car without touching it. What is left the mf wash mitt and the car schampo takes care of. In the winter after the prewash I useally needs to use a tar remover which is solvent based degreaser. The road grime here is a PIA to get clean. Sure it takes on the protection but it's worth it for me since I want as little as possible of dirt left when I touch the paint. This is a common way to wash your car in Sweden. And the thing about it is that different chemicals cleans different kinds of dirt.

The protection with UFF is intresting to test out. Why I'm not sold in it is that in Sweden it claims up to 1 year of longevity and you can tripple the price on it also. So it's in a range of price that other products are more intresting to test for me. In mid of april I did 2 coats Ultima paint guard plus and toped that with different QD in either drying aid or after drying which I did the most. Got me easy through august and swich to gyeon wet coat after that with a QD every other wash. A WOWA or a spray rinse product would work for him aswell I think.

Ohh I just rambling on like him :)
 
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