Favorite Applicator for Opti Coat?
- Thread starter BTLew81
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Dr Oldz
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- Aug 31, 2010
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ski2
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- Dec 2, 2011
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How does this applicator clean up after an OptiCoat application?? The reason I ask is that even Chris on the Optimum Forum said he likes to use the supplied applicator wrapped in a nitril glove then covered with a blue paper shop towel. Then if the product starts to dry in the blue towel in the middle of a car he can just put on a new towel. But from the videos I've seen the Dual Applicator seems to do a good job.
Josh_RN
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- Sep 25, 2012
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+1 :xyxthumbs:Hopefully Chris will chime in as well...
Dr Oldz
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- Aug 31, 2010
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Cleans up great. I soak it in some OPC for a half hour or so then give it dawn wash by hand. After it dries, good as new. These things hold up rather well. It doesn't soak a lot of product in and spreads OC rather nicely keeping waste to a bare minimum. I never had product start drying on it as you described above with the blue shop towel.
Old Tiger
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- Oct 27, 2009
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I agree with my buddy Jim! I prime a MF pad and use that to knock the high spots down.
Old Tiger
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- Oct 27, 2009
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Dang Jim! I just put it in a zip lock bag after and it seems to do fine.
Dr Oldz
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I do that with some applicators but never tried it with OC or OG. :cheers: buddy
Chris Thomas
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- Dec 21, 2007
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I have tried all types of applicators. They all have pros and cons. The best thing I have done to improve application is to start using compressed air to dry the solvent (make it flash faster).
Manually drying allows a thicker coat to be applied with less rubbing (evening out), it does a better job leveling the resin than by hand, and seems to seperate the solvent from the resin which keeps it from getting trapped in the resin as it dries (high spots). Even if there is a haze or blur after manually drying, it wipes off effortlessly, unlike waiting for it to air dry and using pressure to remove spots.
I also believe this process to improve full cure time dramatically. There's definitely a correlation between using air to level and solvent flash so it only makes sense that there's less residual solvent in the bonded resin to be dehydrated.
Manually drying allows a thicker coat to be applied with less rubbing (evening out), it does a better job leveling the resin than by hand, and seems to seperate the solvent from the resin which keeps it from getting trapped in the resin as it dries (high spots). Even if there is a haze or blur after manually drying, it wipes off effortlessly, unlike waiting for it to air dry and using pressure to remove spots.
I also believe this process to improve full cure time dramatically. There's definitely a correlation between using air to level and solvent flash so it only makes sense that there's less residual solvent in the bonded resin to be dehydrated.
Chris Thomas
Optimum Guru
- Dec 21, 2007
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It's a typical finger pump sprayer that can be found in the travel toiletries section of Walmart. The sprayer is the fine mist type and the bottle is about 2oz.
I don't recommend these if working outside. The wind can catch the mist and you'll find dots on the car later. They work well indoors and the pump keeps the amount you add to the applicator consistent.
I don't recommend these if working outside. The wind can catch the mist and you'll find dots on the car later. They work well indoors and the pump keeps the amount you add to the applicator consistent.
steamshooter
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- Jun 7, 2010
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I remember seeing a video (and for the life of me cannot remember where) of a foam pad inserted into a nitrile glove. The claim was less product usage. No product absorption whatsoever. Peel the glove off and throw it away. I have no personal experience with this medthod, just passing along something I saw that looked like it would work.