Feedback on my winter prep

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krisgel100

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Environment: Northeast Ohio

Car is a 2012 model that is well cared for. It will be garaged on nights and weekends, and will be outdoors, Mon. - Fri. for 10 hrs./day.

My goal is to have a clean and smooth surface for the LSP's to adhere, and to use a combination of LSP's that provide great protection from the elements.

1. Wash with CG Citrus Wash at 2oz/gallon

2. Clay

3. Rewash

4. Klasse AIO or Optimum Poli-Seal or CG Ez-Creme Glaze
Feed back please

5. 2 coats of BFWD

6. 2 coats of Collinite 476


Step 4 will be applied with a Porter Cable. Poli-Seal does not really offer any correction on my paint.

The 2nd coat of BFWD and the 2 coats of Collinite will be applied the week following the proceeding steps.


Any opinions on which product to use for step 4?

Any opinions on the overall process for winter prep?
 
I would skip steps 3 and 4 personally. I combo I would do is 2 coats of BFWD and 1 coat of 845. But your plan looks good! Go for it!
 
Pretty good!! :props:

Wash - Chemical Guys Citrus Wash is another great example of a fine line of products they offer. Citrus Wash works amazingly well but dilute according to their directions, 1 ounce per gallon is way to strong and thorough rinsing could be a problem.

Clay - Check!

Re-Wash - Check!

Paint - Klasse AIO a nice choice. This product chemically clean the finish and leaves behind a sealant. One drawback is Klasse AIO doesn't contain abrasives so it doesn't correct.

If you're looking to do a "little' correction take a look at BlackFire Total Seal and Polish. This is another superb product and contains mild abrasives so real correction can be accomplished.

You only need to use one of the products..

Sealant - Check!

Allow to cure overnight before applying the second coat...

Wax - Collinite 476 is an outstanding wax but it is thick and can be a challenge to work with. Another wax in the Collinite line is Collinite 845. This wax is very easy to work with and will provide 5 solid months of protection.
 
You list is good. Before claying I would use Iron-x. (even for an 2012 model)
I found that washing after claying in not always necessary, but then again it can't hurt.
 
Whew! Your process makes me tired just by reading it! I'm from Western PA, so I know about winter and my DD is outside 24/7. I tend to focus more on protection than correction at this time of year. Since some minor finish damage is inevitable from winter exposure, I'll save the correction steps until spring. After a wash and clay, I'll then use a cleaner. I haven't used Klasse yet, since I'm real happy with DG 501/601. Follow with 2 coats of 845 or 476 and you're done. In mid-winter, when a mild weather spell presents the opportunity, I 'll top with some Optimum Wax. This has been my process for the past two winters and I'm very satisfied with it having good beading into April. At that time I'll do a thorough cleaning and claying, then decide what, if any, correction is needed.

Bill
 
Thanks for all of the feedback. I already have all of the products that I listed, so I want to stay with these products.

Knowing the hardness of my paint, Poli-seal, Klasse, and Ez Creme Glaze will not do any correcting. I was mainly looking for some feedback on which of the products will clean the paint the best and leave the best surface for the BFWD to adhere to.

Washing after claying: I find that there usually is some clay residue and clay lube residue in spots. So the washing will help.

Iron-X: I did this over the summer and there wasn't much color change.

CG Citrus Wash at a high concentration - this is recommended for stripping all of the previously applied LSP's and to have some paint cleaning properties.

Collinite 476 - I have been told that applying thinly it with a DA makes removal pretty easy.
 
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