Feel like I was duped here with detailing and ceramic coating

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One of the least professional responses I've ever seen from a "legitimate" company.

This reads like a kid with a buffer, microfiber pads, polish dujour and a "coating" is behind the operation.

That is what it looked like in the picture...bunch of kids. Of course, the website shows a lot of people, however, they seem to be more of an airplane detailing company, perhaps one of the kids/grandkids/cousins/nephews wanted to do cars. Of course I'm an old guy so what do I know from kids.
 
I read through several pages but I must admit, not all of them. IMHO, I saw two problems with the initial job... there was not enough correction and someone did not correctly buff out the ceramic coating. There were high spots _all over_ the paint. Either they did not allow it to flash correctly and/or they just did not buff it very well.

I don't doubt that they put a lot of hours into the paint... this does not mean it was done _correctly_. I don't detail professionally (it is hard work) but I've detailed plenty of vehicle's over the years. This year I worked on a friends Jeep that he takes off road and he's never even waxed the paint. I worked en entire side of the Jeep, needing to go over each panel several times all with foam pads. It still did not look like I wanted. I then broke out a wool pad that I've never used. One pass on a panel and it looked great! That was some _hard_ paint. Point is, unless you work _correctly_ putting hours into correction won't always equal a good job.

I'm a little surprised that the shop was able to buff through the ceramic coating and down to the paint for correction but it appears that they did.

As I said, I don't detail for money and I don't claim to be any kind of professional but I'd say polishing an SUV to 60% correction would take me 20 hours. Ceramic coating... 3 hours. $1,700 / 23 hours is about $74/hour (without product costs). Take away $200 and that is $1,500 / 23 = $65/hour. All of a sudden $1,700 does not seem like such a big number. But still, I'd expect top grade work for those numbers.

Just to put things into perspective, I'm considering "perfect" paint to be at 90% and 60% correction means each panel is worked well and correctly but leaves some minor scratches that are deeper.
 
P.s. I can see some flare there but don’t worry, I won’t tell anyone.


Just asking - are you implying that the light source flaring out like that indicates that the picture has had a filter applied to it? Otherwise I don't understand what you mean by what you said and it personally bothers me as someone who dabbles in photography whenever I see people accusing other honest board members of editing their pictures .
 
I'm a little surprised that the shop was able to buff through the ceramic coating and down to the paint for correction but it appears that they did.

As I said, I don't detail for money and I don't claim to be any kind of professional but I'd say polishing an SUV to 60% correction would take me 20 hours. Ceramic coating... 3 hours. $1,700 / 23 hours is about $74/hour (without product costs). Take away $200 and that is $1,500 / 23 = $65/hour. All of a sudden $1,700 does not seem like such a big number. But still, I'd expect top grade work for those numbers.

Just to put things into perspective, I'm considering "perfect" paint to be at 90% and 60% correction means each panel is worked well and correctly but leaves some minor scratches that are deeper.

I would not contact him unless you dont see the refund within the next few days. A response from him like that is totally unprofessional and shows the quality of his work. I have no respect for him whatsoever.

1. From my understanding the Ceramic Pro coating needs to be sanded off rather than buffed off like 99% of the others. This may prove to be a huge problem for the rest of the next few steps in this ordeal.

2. I charge $900 for a single stage, depending type of paint 60-80% correction, or $1500 for a 2-stage 80-90% correction. Yes some panels come out just perfect. Point is a SUV for each step is likely going to take 8 hrs or so. Like posted above. (my prices are based on working corrections for Mercedes, BMW, Jag etc... and where in the country I live and work)

3. Have no clue about Ceramic Pro, except junk IMHO, prices. But, I charge $650 for wheels off coating, plus 1k for all painted surfaces and trim pieces. This is two coats of 22ple Mistico Elemento or Kamikaze Miyabi and ISM.

I just arranged to have my parents brand new Volvo XC90 in black washed a few times before I can get it corrected, ppf, and coated and the websites I looked at either were written by children or cheaply done. Most used proper language, however they charged $300 for a single stage, $500 for a 2 stage, and 300-500 for a coating. $100 extra for SUV's. So some of this depends where in the country you are located in, and some for the type of person who does your vehicle and thier experience level. I only work exotic, rare, and collectable vehicles. So I have really hard time quoting regular vehicles. My listed prices are based upon Mercedes BMW Jag levels and exotics are priced accordingly to value due to risk involved.
 
Just asking - are you implying that the light source flaring out like that indicates that the picture has had a filter applied to it? Otherwise I don't understand what you mean by what you said and it personally bothers me as someone who dabbles in photography whenever I see people accusing other honest board members of editing their pictures .

Don’t worry mate, just keeping it honest.

Nothing to do wth editing photos, the bro chimed in to my post about the shop’s process to the OP with a picture of a one stage he did.

Photo did look like it had added camera charisma (studied photography at university) but it was probably shot on a camera phone which adds flair or a handheld that also enhances JPG.

Regardless, I was digging in about the fact that a photo of a fully corrected car, as nice as it is, shows nothing when there’s no before to reference. It’s useless to the discussion.

...you asked :)
 
Best advice you’ll receive on this topic: Once you get your money back invest it in Mike Phillips’ 3 day detailing boot camp. After that you’ll be able to do better work than this clown could ever dream.

If you don’t get your money back and you have no luck with the credit card, there’s always small claims court. You have plenty of documented evidence of the shoddy work this guy did.

But take up the local member on their offer to at least have a look at your car.

Ceramic Pro is a company that really pisses me off. They’re all marketing hype with nothing to back it up. They claim their coating has a “9H” hardness which makes people think of the Mohs scale and that the coating is indestructible, but they’re rally talking about the pencil hardness scale which means nothing in terms of coating durability. There used to be a really good up and coming coating brand that was really taking off until Ceramic Pro bought it out and shut it down to stifle competition. I’m sorry to say that you’re just the next victim of their marketing tactics.


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Don’t worry mate, just keeping it honest.

Nothing to do wth editing photos, the bro chimed in to my post about the shop’s process to the OP with a picture of a one stage he did.

Photo did look like it had added camera charisma (studied photography at university) but it was probably shot on a camera phone which adds flair or a handheld that also enhances JPG.

Regardless, I was digging in about the fact that a photo of a fully corrected car, as nice as it is, shows nothing when there’s no before to reference. It’s useless to the discussion.

...you asked :)

That's nothing but a samsung S-6 "Bro" No editing etc. Like I said you weren't there so you have no business accusing or suggesting anything. Nuff time wasted on you. Later bro.
 
New video. I’m disgusted.

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Bummer bro. John Jones Auto Group opened American Detail in Salem, IN. That's where we are now. Did this hammered Camaro recently and 2019 Grand Cherokee. Good luck amigo sorting it out.

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New video. I’m disgusted.

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I think you know what to do Sir. Lesson learned for all of us - never trust reviews and do your thorough home work (i learned my lesson when bought a new car back a few years ago - got severely ripped off but second car purchase went silky smooth).
BTW, if you ever have to take the car for a service, make sure you let them know not to wash. Even more than that, print out multiple sheets with NO WASH on them and put around the car. Ask me how i know it...


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Thought I’d post some more photos. Just for comedy. I have to almost laugh at this point it’s so bad.

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Well Hell, hopefully you get a refund.

Reinvest that money into a DA and products.
Ride that shine out through winter and see how it does. A test spot on the door in your last video could easily make you feel better..

Then again I am taking for granted you have a garage and actually feel like doing it.
 
Also, does this look like it’s been coated?

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Spraying the water on the surface is not a good way to test hydrophobicity, because it creates droplets that are too small to roll off on their own, and you could only test the contact angle this way. Instead you should pour water (as from a bottle or from a hose) onto the surface, and see how that behaves.

Also, if the surface has not been corrected properly, the tiny scratches (which might be several times deeper than what the coating could fill) will still "catch" and hold back the water trying to roll or slide off the surface, even if the latter has been properly coated. So, again, a car could be perfectly well (even though pointlessly) coated, but not sheet and bead properly, if it has not been corrected prior to that.
 
Spraying the water on the surface is not a good way to test hydrophobicity, because it creates droplets that are too small to roll off on their own, and you could only test the contact angle this way. Instead you should pour water (as from a bottle or from a hose) onto the surface, and see how that behaves.

Also, if the surface has not been corrected properly, the tiny scratches (which might be several times deeper than what the coating could fill) will still "catch" and hold back the water trying to roll or slide off the surface, even if the latter has been properly coated. So, again, a car could be perfectly well (even though pointlessly) coated, but not sheet and bead properly, if it has not been corrected prior to that.

That was my thought too on spritzing water on the panel. Also, you’d get a better idea on how the “coating” repels water if you poured water on the hood or another horizontal surface where gravity is not going to do most of the work. But I think you’re supposed to let the “coating” cure for a few days to be safe so maybe dousing the paint with water right now is not the best move.
 
That was my thought too on spritzing water on the panel. Also, you’d get a better idea on how the “coating” repels water if you poured water on the hood or another horizontal surface where gravity is not going to do most of the work. But I think you’re supposed to let the “coating” cure for a few days to be safe so maybe dousing the paint with water right now is not the best move.

Lol putting water on the “coating” is the least of
my concerns. I couldn’t care less what happens to the coating now. It’s going to have to be stripped off anyway and re-done.
 
Word of advice....keep a level head. If you have it in writing that he will refund your money than just hang your hat on that. Do not go the CC route - plenty of time for that (some up to 60 days).

Ditto, Do you have a Better business Bureau in your area ? If so file a complaint....
 
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